jd1923

There are others here that know way more than me re electrical code and insurance regulations… My thinking, just based in logic, is the brake system is not fused for safety reasons! 🤣

Yes, as our friend @John Dorrer stated you already have the D52 axles. When the label states D52, you have the 5200 LB axles. Reason it states 3500 LBS is the factory build plan called for 3500 LB leaf springs. Just send Alcan your axle label picture and they will know your axles are A+ and with the Alcan leaf spring upgrade you’re good to go. Lucky you! 🤣

I have an itchy finger on biting the Turbo Greenland deal, but we do not need A/C for most of our travels. My wife Chris and I plan to watch YouTubes on this product tonight, hoping there are new ones but if you have not watched one yet, here is a goody. Best wishes, JD

SALE PRICE UPDATE!!! This inverter model is now down to $1275 plus tax with a $1499 sales price and 15% promo code. Free shipping and with AZ sales tax less than $1400 OTD! (And China tariffs are still in question.) The comparable Pioneer model is priced much higher. Will the Greenland be quiet enough? Is the power consumption low enough to run on LiFePO4 batteries? Time to pull the trigger? https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump

That's the real trick! You need to run two +/- 6 AWG cables (read from their spec) from the Oliver basement up to the rooftop. This unit also has an external power cord, so you would need to create a new waterproof entry for that to the rear of the 14x14" opening. You should talk to OTT for your hull and see what they say. I do a lot of mods and would not consider this. We will stay with 120VAC to reuse the 12 AWG 120VAC wiring. With all the turns and patches of insulation between hulls, I would think it would be extremely difficult to use the existing wiring to pull two new cables that would be somewhat thicker. This inverter model (not sure it's quiet enough, but very good on battery Ah) is now down to $1275 plus tax with a lower sales price and 15% promo code: https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump

Thanks Steve! Always look for issue with your most recent change.

Forum member near 5 years, now 1 post, no signature...

So when did OTT stop using ABS sewer pipe for PVC? Fancy! 🤣

Why just Texas? Dallas to Hohenwald 615 miles Miami to Hohenwald 960 miles Boston to Hohenwald 1180 miles Phoenix to Hohenwald 1590 miles Seattle to Hohenwald 2410 miles Personally, I believe OTT should have just left things alone and continued to retail their own trailers from their special factory location! 😂 Glad our hull is well beyond warranty years. I generally buy used and prefer to pay when we need work or do it myself. Warranty claims are a true pain as has been witnessed in many Oliver Forum threads. I talked to a Sales Manager here at Blue Compass RV, “now in 34 states.” This company bought out three locations of Affinity RV in our Prescott and surrounding valley areas that had been here for decades. He said, "You can't make money selling Olivers!" Not worth carrying the inventory for such a niche trailer when for every Oliver we can sell 10 Alliance, Forest River, Grand Design... and Winnebagos. Lots of Toy-haulers sold in the SW too! But he was trying to get me to trade in my Oliver on a fifth wheel, while I was dumping tanks at their location (a 35-ft 3 axle beast, no way)! There are likely more RV dealers in Phoenix and Mesa, across the desert valley down to Yuma AZ than any other market in the country. OTT has not been able to get one AZ-based dealer to carry their product.

Or the Ford issue that @Steph and Dud B cited. First thing to try is to test for voltage at the Ford F350 TV 7-blade connecter. Jump the BLUE and WHITE wires with a test light or meter while a friend applies the brake pedal then releases, on and off. @BoondockingAirstream you don't need another trailer. If it shows voltage, then test for amperage through the blue when connected. I believe @Geronimo John wrote that brakes at each wheel should draw 2-4A, so at the main harness it should show 4x this number when all 4 brakes are working. If you have 12VDC at the hitch and no amperage draw downstream to the trailer, then you have an open circuit along the path to the wheels. No brakes at all likely means your issue is not wiring at individual wheels or in the axles. It would be between the TT 7-blade connector and where it's connected to the first wheel in line.

Pilgrimage to the Mothership! 🤣

Good thought, If just the tab is missing you're done in 2 minutes!

This item is on my Christmas list! It costs the most meaning it's likely the best, smaller size, max power! 🤣

Groovy is a matter of opinion! 🤣 🤣 🤣

🤣 🤣 🤣 Yeah, but the brakes should work given power from ANY brake controller! Voltage and correct amperage draw at the wheels?