jd1923

@rideadeuce Hey Mike, what did you use as a fuse or circuit breaker for connecting the positive battery cable to your MP2? I believe a 300A DC fuse is required. I bought a breaker, but it looks like junk and so do all the ones I see online. Thank you.

Often toggle switches terminate the ground and will NOT show 12VDC. I never tested mine, since when it was ON there was no power to the fan even when bypassing the thermal switch. I ran new wires. I used the main switch to connect ground to the new Beech Lane fan circuit. i suggest new wires everywhere. I cut off all the old blue and red 20 AWG wires and replaced with automotive grade 14 AWG wiring. Pics above and I’ll keep an eye here for any questions as you progress with your mod.

Ron, you were the first to bring this model to our attention and thank you for that. @rideadeuce aka Mike, thank you for the excellent detail in this post and recent update. This sure beats what some have done in considerable works to reconfigure a Houghton and others that have replaced a Dometic with another! Maybe OTT should consider this vs. the custom fiberglass work required for the Truma model. It is certainly a lower cost alternative. Mike another way of stating, "efficiency, it is at least 30-40% sometimes 50% better than the Dometic PII 13.5k. 75 vs 150 amps" is the PII requires 2x (200%) greater amperage than the Atmos! Now your microwave takes more amperage than your A/C and given your Victron 3KVA inverter and 920AH Epoch batteries you should be able to run both simultaneously and run the A/C for many hours of the day. Kevin at SDG thought he lost me as a customer because in another post, I commented that one (just one) of his answers was "sales-speak." He was overall great on the phone, and it appears Mike thought so in person, he and his team. With other upgrades, like LiFePO4 and Victron inverter and so much more, our A/C upgrade must wait for more budget money. We don't camp in the summer anyway, though our camping season starts soon enough. We're heading to the Texas Rally in just 10 weeks from today and there is a lot to do 'til then! Kevin, if you're reading, please look forward to hearing from me in the new year. When we're done with winter camping, I should install one of these prior to our annual April-May excursion! WE got stuck running the buzzsaw Dometic two nights on our last spring trip! I got the 100 dB PII running this summer as I work on the Oliver. Good thing I don't have to sleep in there now! @Ronbrink, I'm really looking forward to your post, since you like I will be working a home installation. Thanks again. 😂

Dennis and Melissa, if you can reserve any of the remote campsites at Snow Canyon, they are amazing. We could only get one of the smaller sites in the center where they had 12 sites closely together. It turned out to be great though, since we met so many great people in the neighborhood! Here's the camp map and below is our trip report: Campground Details - Snow Canyon State Park, UT - Utah State Parks (reserveamerica.com)

What @rideadeuce added is new content. Was the springs Mike received, or is hull #308 different from 6 others here that have thousands of road- tested miles? I too would like to know that answer! What I was referring to was some against the product, for weight capacity, ride height or cost, writing such complaints more than once and several others asking what had had been answered in so many previous pages of this post.

BTW, extra ride height is a good thing! Right? This is why many will lift their trucks. Last thing anybody wants is to spend big $$$ for lesser springs. We have shown in detail the Alcan product is superior to OEM. That was the reason @Mountainman198 brought this to our attention months and 19 pages ago… On about page 14, I wrote something about this topic being cooked, well done! Maybe it should be closed (Mods)? Questions answered are being asked again… Yes, it’s a long read, but all here in vast detail. Pretty soon this thread will be longer than “Where’s Ollie?!” I’m going to read some old pages there. 🤣

Yep, that was written but not…

Being an engineer and mathematician, this does not add up! 🤣

https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/snow-canyon/discover/

We will likely not camp again in VT. Only because with stops it’s 3K miles away. Been to VT a dozen times in the 70s and 80s. My sister lived in Brattleboro for a few years and I’ve skied in almost every VT and NH resort. We don’t care about hookups, sometimes don’t connect even though we paid for them. I trust my water and power more so. One of my favorite roads is Vermont Hwy 9! Take it west to Bennington, what a great road. And keep driving west staying off Interstates as long as you can!

That would be quite a pain! Mine is like yours. I leave my hose attached. Not interested in a fancy hose. I cut the round elbow end, that goes into the dump, flat so that it fits behind the bumper. Quick and easy at the dump station. When we get home from a trip, I rinse with the garden hose and put it back in place.

Don't leave home without it! 🤣 Our first night out is never at a campsite and we like to boondock half the time. Fresh tank always full and our aux 35-gal tank in the truck bed is always full!

And what we do not know yet is if @R-Villa has changed between these input sources. Is the correct source selected? In choosing an alternate source does the TV work?

We have 10" mattresses from Brooklyn Bedding: Dreamfoam Essential - RV (rvmattress.com) Ours are very comfortable and heavy too. Soon, we will cut a radius in one corner, so they will fit better, not being jammed in one corner. Because they are tall mattresses, the standard twin fitted sheet works well due to the extra height. Chris is very much about a neat made bed. She uses Bed Sheet Straps the mattress protector and fitted sheets, something like these: Amazon.com: Gorilla Grip Bed Sheet Straps, Adjustable Elastic Fasteners with Metal Clips, Keep in Place Fitted Bedding Holder, Easy Install Suspenders Mattresses, Firm Tight Accessories, 4 Pack White : Home & Kitchen

This is the basic symptom of a plumbing leak. The leak causes a loss of pressure in the lines. Pressure drops below the set pressure and the pump kicks in to recover, just like when water is being used. The "weird water problem" cited above was the opposite issue, where the pump would not turn on with loss of line pressure.

So, your Furrion player is working. Your HDMI is either not connected at the TV (check this first), not connected at the player, or somehow the HDMI cable went bad. This is assuming you can see a TV picture using some other input, either via TV antenna, Wi-Fi streaming, etc. If you do not see a picture at all then your TV power supply or LED screen is blown, which means replace the TV.

Oh, it finally got here! I've done a lot of prep work but could not start many tasks until I could see it in person. It does have the dual DC terminals, so no extra buses for me. Each will have 12VDC in from the batteries and 12VDC out to the Oliver buses, not extra complications. The beast is heavy and VERY much top heavy. The center of weight is 8" from the top on a 22.5" chassis. I need to work my mounting platform accordingly. I also received the VE.Bus Smart Dongle which is the Bluetooth control interface. No Cerbo and no screen display for me, at least for now. I'm working this week and next, so this will take a while. Like I mentioned before, I will start a build thread after I get a bit done. It's going to be fun!

This is most likely cause. Is HDMI connected to the TV? Next step, can the Furrion play a CD, sound coming from the 4 speakers. If so, the player is likely fine and the HDMI signal not getting to TV.

I'm not well versed on RV water pump internals. Thinking that if the pump needs rebuilding though it would run on, for not building up pressure and/or produce less GPM. There is a set pressure for these pumps to kick-in. If pressure is regulated by the diaphragm, then this kit could do it. But I'm thinking there is an independent pressure sensor that a pump rebuild would not correct. @Steph and Dud B's pump motor twice did not activate when it dropped well below pressure. I replaced my working OEM just to improve performance. My hull is older and hopefully a 2022 hull would have a better OEM pump than this.

I meant auto-adjust. John E Davies disliked them and suggested to replace them. I thought that was crazy and some others agreed they were good as-is. Per @mossemi's post above. You went to OTT and they said they could not fit yours, ONLY because they do not at this time stock the 50" axles. Check your other post, end of page 1 where @rideandfly on July 22 had called Dexter and found both axle lengths can be ordered: New axles may not fit all older sub-frames - Page 2 - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Am I happy with mine? No, I got them serviced OK. But wish I had not spent $200 on Timken bearings and maintenance and saved that money to buy the 5200 LB axles with 12" brakes. Mine will be OK for a couple years, since we do not drive many miles. But prior to another maintenance and ANY addition of repair parts, I'll just wait and replace the full axle/brake assemblies, also with improved bearings and adjusters, at some later date. And Install Alcan springs at the same time.

A small amount of hot water can pass through the kitchen faucet valve. Those lever-operated combination valves will do that, even a "dribble" when new, more when the internal O-ring seal wears with some age. The real question is why the cold ran so long without the pump kicking in. The cut-in pressure did not work correctly on your water pump allowing the cold side to drain completely. Given this has happened before, you likely need a new water pump. It kicked in later when at zero pressure and likely water leaking in from the pressurized hot side backfilled the cold allowing the pump to prime. Just my hypothesis. Could also be you run more often on City Water and the pump pressure switch got stuck from lack of use. Either way, I would replace your water pump, knowing this is likely to reoccur. I also suggest replacing with an upgraded model over the OEM pump. You can add 5 PSI with no ill effect on the plumbing and go +1 GPM for much improved performance. Water pumps are relatively cheap and an easy swap.

I preferred to stay with the self adjust, only worked the Timken upgrade. No other parts on our Oliver needed replacing, though our hull is likely low mileage. Here’s my take.

When I do these jobs, I do all I can, prep everything, get to the point where I can grab my son, and he helps with the heavy lifting! This is at times a two-person job.

Is this required? Should not be so in a well engineered A/C. When set temp is several degrees lower than actual temp, the A/C should be full on, no compressor cycling.

Should not matter to you or me. You already purchased a Houghton and I my Oliver sits outdoors!