jd1923

Good news/bad news, isn't it always the way? The new monitoring system shows LOW fuel pressure. 🙃 Not sure if it is true with all diesels, but the older Rams have a "lift pump" and an injection pump. The lift pump pushes fuel to the injection pump at 14 PSI (+/- depending on when idling, cruising or accelerating) at a strong feed rate with a return line to the tank. When at good pressure and flow the diesel fuel creates cooling for the injection pump. When the lift pump fails, the injection pump will pull fuel itself but without the added flow for cooling the injection pump will fail, which is common and costly when not found in time. My new gauge shows only 8-9 PSI at idle (highest PSI), 6-7 at highway speeds and jump on the pedal it can go down to 2-3 PSI, all not good since the shop manual states a 10 PSI min. The lift pump is in the tank which is not an easy fix. Replacement pumps are iffy at best and most older Ram owners install some kind of performance lift pump and improved fuel filtering system. Good fuel supply is paramount in a diesel. I purchased and am currently installing this kit: FPE-2019-31_FPE-34754.pdf (fleeceperformance.com)

Thought some of you might get a kick out of my recent and current TV projects! I recently install and Edge Juice with Attitude kit which adds a performance chip replacing the ECM for fuel metering providing extra towing power and better GPM: Juice With Attitude (edgeproducts.com) We actually went from 12 GPM to 17 GPM, pulling the Oliver, on two recent trips in the mountains. Not at all a scientific test, since the first trip likely had more elevation ups and downs, but it is for sure much improved. Driving uphill in the mountains is now much stronger too. There are also gauges for fuel pressure, trans temp and EGT (exhaust gas temperature) for diesel engine safety when adding more power. This was a complex installation, with a dozen under the hood connections. I was very happy when the truck started up immediately after. The picture shows where I installed the Attitude display under the dash. They supply a hokey windshield mount, but I didn't want my view obstructed at all. It works nicely there. Notice above the fuel pedal, you can see where it connects to the OBD-II port for reading ECM and sensor data.

Would love to have tilt panels, but I'm not climbing ladders when away, don't want to carry one either. We mostly winter camp, so the tilt would be helpful. Last outing somehow the fridge got switched to DC overnight, woke up to 63%. It was a very sunny day in the Sonoran Desert, and we got back up to 89%. With a tilt, I figure it would have gotten to high 90s instead. Come up with a motorized solution for 2-panel Olivers and I'm in!

We do the same, power off the water pump at night. There's still enough water to flush or even brush teeth. You can also flush the yellow at night w/o water. It empties and generally adds just enough water to seal.

I spent a couple hours taping both sides of every seem on a shower floor we did a couple years ago. I'll put myself with @Geronimo John as I fall short on anything that needs the artist touch. Using the blue painters' tape, it came out pretty nice. I can fix anything automotive mechanical, though tried bodywork once in the late 70s, and never again. The one thing I will contract on the Oliver is anything fiberglass gelcoat work. After our next outing, I need to clean off all that "gnarly" crude on every exterior seam. Readers here would likely be interested in your choice of "silicone finishing tools." Thanks again.

Dave, thank you for this! I have learned a lot from you in several of your recent posts. I did not realize silicone oils would permeate the surface, no wonder if feels like you can neve get it completely off. I have a simple rule, don't caulk anything. PERIOD! I've never caulked the exterior of a house or RV, and I'm not a sailor. One exception, my "rare instance" would be to use GE White Silicone in our bathrooms at home, once when a new sink or toilet is installed, or along a tub. Use a proper gasket, dum-dum (butyl tape) or something to seal the window, the door, the faucet or whatever. When you caulk, the smallest bead possible is all that's required. It should be in the crack, not 1/2" either side of the crack. If I can get back the 100s of hours I've spent, in removing the lazy caulk other POs and installers have added, we could take a long camping trip just to break even. There was a mention of rear windows. Here is ours after a trip, where the AZ road dust shows it well. When our hull went back to OTT service twice, both service tickets listed re-caulking. I wish they just caulked it once when built. I will remove all this and not replace it. I know many of you will warn that I need caulk, or it should be serviced regularly, but not me, not our hull. There will still be enough hidden in the crack after I remove everything visible.

So @MAX Burner installed all new performance leaf springs last week, likely other maintenance included, and is already 100s of miles from home today. Love you brother! Reminds me of when I first met my wife, was spring of 1992 and I was restoring a 1967 Buick LeSabre, loved that car! She wanted to do Spring Break in Florida to visit her mom and brothers (was 2 years before we got married). I promised her, I would drive her and her kids down (Chicago to Ft Laud) in the Buick! It was a week out from our trip and the LeSabre was up on blocks, finishing a suspension/brake system rebuild, wheels off, new stereo system installed, yet the interior was still laying in the second garage stall... We left on our Florida trip as planned. One of the memories that founded our new family through the years! God Speed Art & D and the pups! Keep us posted! JD

Thanks so much Bill! We have 3 nights booked at Snow Canyon campground to end our St. George stay. We go to St. George every year for the Red Rock PPA Tournament (pickleball). Chris and I play in the mixed seniors on one day and then we watch the pros play over the weekend. Past trips not enough time, this time we planned 8-nights in St. George alone! MUST SEE a performance at the Tuacahn Amphitheatre. What a place! Homepage - Tuacahn Center for the Arts (OFFICIAL) Last year we watched this spectacular show: The Redeemer by Jenny Oaks Baker - Tuacahn Center for the Arts (OFFICIAL) Imagine we have time to follow your course and see the Dino Tracks too!

Great pictures @routlaw! We're leaving in three weeks, couple of nights at Valley of Fire State Park (Lake Meade) on the way to St. George, small world! North Rim on the way back, if the road is open, Vermillion Cliffs and other stops.

I had to take a step back, to better see this from your point of view. For me, I bought an older hull, half of new, thinking I could get all M&R up to date, add a few mods, and given sweat equity and a few more dollars we'd have a really nice TT! I had no expectation of warranty or dealer service. Just like the 40+ used cars and trucks I've bought in my life. In fact, on the many other forums where I am a member (Goldwing, Toyota, Cummins, etc.) we call them Stealerships which we only frequent at last resort. You just made a considerable purchase, less than one year ago. You still have warranty, and you made the purchase based on the ideals set by OTT, being a custom shop, building TTs to order, personal factory service not offered through dealers, making your new OTT purchase rather special in the RV industry. Seven hours from home was also a great benefit that I imagine played into your purchase decision. If I were in your shoes, I would place a call or two into OTT management. Best wishes, JD

Years ago, when owning a Class-A, I called our local RV dealership (with 3 nearby locations). After They told me they were 2-3 months out, I replied no thank-you and have never again called an RV dealer for service. And for us driving to OTT for service is not practical. Fortunately for us, I can do everything we need to service our Oliver, though understand many owners cannot. I will job out fiberglass gelcoat, with a local detailer, not having these tools or expertise. I strongly suggest that most of you acquire a good local trailer shop, or owner-operated automotive repair shop you can count on. Most "annual service" can be worked by any reputable mechanic. Except for the fiberglass shell design, the mechanical systems are the same as any other TT or RV.

Our son's apartment is our lower level, and we ask him to be home and responsible when we travel. I'd hate to be that squatter. Can't believe what I heard on the news! A homeowner was arrested for changing locks on their own home, alleged intent to lockout squatters. This is a rule for landlords, but there was no lease agreement and no rents paid. How crazy will it get? This crazy, no, much worse? What's next?

Great pictures! Ya gotta bring more water! Besides the small OTT Fresh Tank, we have 35 gallons in the truck bed: Norwesco 35 gal. Horizontal Leg Tank at Tractor Supply Co. Fill up at home with enough water for boondocking 7-8 days, 1-2 more if conservative. Lot of areas in the NF and BLM where you can legally let a little grey go at a time. I special ordered tank straps which work great, and we have a canvas cover (not yet installed in the picture). Always a full case of bottled spring drinking water, and a couple of gallons for coffee. Not running out of good food or adult beverages either!

GJ, I would put you up against the Terminator, for attention to detail. Thank you for all you do. And @MAX Burner you are my recent favorite installer (after 45 years of me just pluggin' along). Great work in everything you do! I also love the fact that we purchased out OTTs within a few months of each other (you had a head start, not fair). GJ and I already have a plan. We're meeting at your place this summer. And If I get there first, I'm backing my Oliver into your garage first thing, Ah mechanics heaven. Sorry, GJ! God Bless you guys, God Bless America, and God Bless all y'alls on this wonderful Easter weekend. Not afraid to say it, just proud to be a hard-working American, the country that had allowed us to prosper and travel this great country in our little fiberglass traveling homes. 😂

If you were the original owner and never ran near 80 PSI, that blows my theory. For me, receiving our used OTT with 80 PSI on all fours, I figured it was run that way for 6-7 years. Thanks @routlaw

We almost always leave home with a full fresh tank. Our Oliver weighs in slightly over 6K LBS with the fresh tank full. It would take another 100 gallons of water to get up to GTWR. I also do not believe highway vs dirt roads matter, except that if your tires are overinflated the washboard dirt road can be damaging, but not at correct pressure. When we bought ours used, the tires were at 80 PSI. My bet is tire pressure. These days when I read pressure, if I can get all 4 even anywhere between 42 to 46 PSI, without backing into my driveway for the air compressor, I do that.

Mine had the two failures, yet every other weld was perfect, no other cracks at all. The purpose of my previous past was as the title suggests... "Check your frame, any damage? Welds good?" All OTT Owners should make this an annual check. I spend a lot of time crawling under cars, trucks and trailers. Generally, I find something that needs maintenance or repair, more often than not.

That would be me and it was about 8 months: Check your frame, any damage? Welds good? - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Something I found just after we purchased our used hull. I would not think to bolt this. Just find a welder that can work aluminum. We had two frame braces broken on the curbside. I found a local guy who runs a metal salvage yard and does metal artwork. He charged me $75 and I gave him $100 cash. Doesn't look as pretty as the original, but they have held. Make sure your trailer tires are below 50 PSI!

Make sure you camp there a few days upon delivery. Use everything, test everything and they should make all necessary warranty repairs at that time. You will receive a high-quality TT that should only need regular maintenance that can be conducted by any good local mechanic. Most of the work, so many of us do on our Olivers, are mods the factory does not offer. I understand many of you do a regular pilgrimage to OTT, and we would love to too, if it were something we could afford to do in terms of 1000s of travel miles and service costs. When we purchased our used unit last summer, I was happy to see our hull had made two such service visits, through the years, with a lot of good work done. We will all continue to love our Olivers regardless of service location! 🙂

Must be a little adlib going on here, but I could not agree more. 🤣 I don't think the guys at "Forged in Fire" would touch this stuff while spring steel should make a good blade.

Lots of false stories re the economy, the data shows the economy is not good. Four years ago, gas at $2 +/-, then it was $5-7 depending on location, so are we are supposed to be happy at $4? Not! Our bills are 30-50% higher, in every category, than 4 years ago! Reason why I now have a long wish list for 2025, and if stuff gets worse, then I will repair what's absolutely necessary, meaning Oliver mods willl have to wait! 🙃

I can't upload photos today. Anybody else?

@MAX Burner what was your installation procedure? Was the tension released as soon as you lifted the frame? Does it matter which bolt you pull first? Thanks

I tried the same thing, and it didn't work for me. I ended up with a variable speed water pump and the manufacturer specified NOT to use an accumulator. I have 2 on hand if anybody needs one!

I believe there was a mention of another 1" +/- in an earlier post (pages back). Likely you need to have as extra 1-2" height clearance in your garage door. Our Oliver will likely never see the comfort of a garage!