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sailorashore

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Everything posted by sailorashore

  1. I have been reluctant to take my Ollie to a shop for wheel bearing and brake service. Don’t lift under the axles, don’t lift under the aluminum frame, the guidance says. How does one ensure a shop tech doesn’t do one of these bad things when you aren’t there to observe? Any practical experience with this? Am I being overly concerned? Advice appreciated. Thanks, John Shkor SailorsAshore
  2. Overland: Fully understand. The Blue Seas 360 is a nicely engineered panel. And if you have spent enough time inside the boat cabin during foul weather, electrical panels begins to look good anyway. Carnivore: Look forward to reading about your 12V lithium ion battery experience. We have lithium batteries in two electric bikes, and they pack a lot of power in a small package. Best regards, John Shkor SailorsAshore
  3. How I Installed a Battery Cut-Off Switch: After much delay becuse I couldn't figure it out, I finally installed a battery cut-off switch on our Ollie hull 217, and it turned out easy to do. We store the trailer at a remote covered location. I didn't like to keeping the batteries on charge for long periods, and I didn't like the seemingly unavoidable small drains take the batteries down over time. My new switch installation cures both these problems. I know other owners have installed similar switches, but still wanted to share my method. The installation will be familiar to anyon
  4. Go to Defender Industries or West Marine. Both marine suppliers. Get the 12 volt fans with suction cups. I have two. They work great and run forever. I think they are Carafamos, but I am not in the the trailer. Should be about $25. Biggest benefits are circulating ambient air when not too hot, and circulating cold air from AC when running. Good luck. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  5. John Davies: Got it. Makes sense. Will use side bolts. John Shkor SailorsAshore
  6. John Davies Thank you for the report and pictures. For some time I have been thinking about adding an extra bolt to the coupler-tongue assembly. Drill a 1/2” hole vertically through the top of the coupler and install bolt about where the letters “FT” show up in your first photograph. Can you think of a reason why this would be a bad idea/wouldn’t work? Please advise. John Shkor SailorsAshore
  7. What Da: Great idea. Thanks. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  8. Mary & Bill: Funny, we just had your problem for the first time. We are camping in Maine, yesterday was an unusually hot hot day, and we chose to start the AC. Had the same intermittent cutouts you describe, with everything losing power and coming back on a minute or two later. At first I thought it was electrical overload, with the fridge, hot water heater and AC all calling for electricity. Couldn't find any circuit breakers that had tripped. I changed the fridge and the hot water heater to gas, but that didn't cure the problem. Turned out the issue was our Progressive In
  9. Mike: I will definitely contact Anderson about this issue, once we get home. On the road now and comms sometimes difficult. I have always gotten great customer support from Andersen and expect a satisfactory outcome. Best regards, John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  10. To my fellow Andersen users: I am a fan of the Andersen WD hitch, and believes it provides both safety and ease of towing to a number of us. But I also believe there is a design defect in the new model, one with a simple fix, and can't understand why Andersen hasn't yet taken care of it. I too like to raise the hitch assembly with the trailer tongue jack to put slack in the tension chains and enable easy installation or removal of the whale tail. And occasionally the ball shaft will "pop up" in its cone, pinching the pin if the whale tale is installed, or preventing the pin from going
  11. Jitters: Like John Davies I am a believer in the center-line mounting for the Andersen chain brackets. There are a number or reasons. The center beam is extremely strong and the line of chain pull is parallel to the long axis of the beam. No sideways element of tension, and no tension force being carried through aluminum welds, as is the case with the factory mounting system. Finally, you get to “double up” the mounting brackets, ensuring they will not move over time, as has happened to some with the factory mounting system. Is the center mount necessary? Probably not. I am not
  12. Nrvale0: I had to replace my bumper pins. Numerous vendors on line. Google “quick release pins.” Opt for stainless steel, 3/8” diameter, and minimum of 3” useable length. My replacements were/are 3.5” useable length and work fine. Good luck. John Shkor. SailorsAshore
  13. I think there is another reason that Oliver will ultimately have to come out with a new model. It is that as they build and sell a goodly number of Elite I & II’s, the resale of used Elites will begin to cannibalize the sale of new units. We saw this with Island Packet yachts when we were sailing. Island Packet was a very successful boat builder, and they kept the appetite up for new boats by replacing current models with new models after a 5 or 6 year run for a given model. The new model in a given length would have more bells and whistles, so that would be the one you would want. I
  14. We like to keep our bathroom window open as much as possible for ventilation. I did two things to reduce the likelihood of rain getting in and let us have ventilation even when it is raining. They have worked out pretty well. The first was to mount a "port visor" over the bathroom window. These are made for boats to go over portholes and keep rainwater from running off the deck and into portholes on the cabin sides. This resulted in a substantial improvement, mostly in keeping rainwater coming off the roof from streaming in. But I still wanted more rain protection. So I trimmed an old a
  15. Pete: The bilge heaters is see in the marine catalogs are both powerful (high wattage) and expensive. Is that what you used, or did you find something smaller? Would like to know how you did it. Best wishes for the holidays. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  16. We had a problem with our heater that we should have caught when taking delivery, but didn’t. Furnace would ignite a flame but it would go off after a few seconds. Manufacturer of furnace speculated it was a faulty thermocouple. Oliver diagnosed faulty mother board and replaced under warranty. No problems since. Good luck with yours. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  17. We use the Andersen hitch on our Elite II and like it. We tow with a GMC Yukon, so the springs are soft and the ride comfortable. I tried and continue to use a center mount method for installing the chain anchors onto the center spar of the trailer, which I think is better than the factory install. Easier to adjust the chains, mounted to the strongest piece of aluminum in the frame, and with a fair lead angle. My install is buried somewhere in an old thread. John Davies has also used this mounting method, and done and posted a much better description and set of pictures. We picked
  18. Randy: Maybe send the picture to Dexter and see what they have to say. John Shkor SailorsAshore
  19. The Lukens put out some good word on this a year or so ago. Their tip was to remove the rotating closure element in the bathroom vent. This doubles the area open for hot air to move through the vent. We have done it and it helps. In addition we leave the bathroom door open a half inch at night. There isn’t an air return in the bathroom, and having the door open compensates for that. Good luck with this. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  20. I see there is a strong desire in some quarters to seal the exterior vents on the Ollie, and that is at least in part a motivator to shift from absorption refrigeration to compressor refrigeration. We have had great luck with Danfoss compressor refrigeration on our sailboats and are considering making the change. Of course on the boats the compressor was physically remote from the evaporator plate in the ice box, located in an aft sail locker. The key to efficiency and low amperage draw was being able to move the heat away from the compressor. The compressor had to either be in a very
  21. Maniac: You can make the adjustment. Pull the window shade out of the clips. Lay shade frame face down on the bunk. Opposite the shade you want to tighten you will find a small spring in a groove in the frame with nylon strings tied at each end. Working with a small screwdriver and a needle (or something similar) undo the knot at one end of the spring and tighten (shorten) the string. 1/4 inch should be enough. Repeat for the string on the other end of the spring. You will be surprised at how much additional “hold” there will be. Don’t over tighten the strings or they will wear out pre
  22. Cash: Since you mention both hot and cold water, I assume you are talking about water coming out of the sink faucet. If that is the case you may be having a problem with particulate matter clogging an aerator screen inside the faucet. I haven’t had my Oliver faucet apart, but have found this to be a problem in other sink faucets. Enjoyed talking with you at Lake Guntersville rally. Good luck! John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  23. Foy & Mirna: Assuming that the fiberglass hull is properly positioned on the frame, looks like the steel subframe assembly may have been misaligned (1-2 inches too far aft [or forward?]) when it was mounted to the aluminum frame. (I suspect that the suspension brackets are welded on before the steel subframe assembly is bolted on to the aluminum frame.) Sounds like a warranty issue. May be possible for the factory to pull the bolts and move the steel subframe assembly forward on the aluminum frame. Hope you get a good resolution. Sorry you have this problem. All of us a
  24. Sheila & I had a great time at Lake Guntersville State Park & we enjoyed getting together with other Ollie owners. We would be interested in joining a fall mini-rally in Jacksonville. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
  25. Carole: We had a similar problem when trying to heat the trailer with the furnace for the first time. The cure for us—On the thermostat change the fan setting from “auto” to a manual setting. With that change the AC stayed off and the furnace fired up. John Shkor, SailorsAshore
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