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3Way Refrigerator Fan - Advice/Photos Please


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In a previous post, I mentioned that I wanted to replace the fan that helps cool the refer coils, and that the previous owner had sealed much of the upper area between the fridge and cabinet.  I started the search today, and would like to hear from anyone who has replaced the fan.

As I peeled back the aluminum tape, I’m finding layers of styrofoam sandwiched in between the fridge top and what appears to be a piece of honeycomb composite shelving, then another layer of styrofoam up to the fiberglass top, all sealed with an adhesive or injected foam.

Does anyone have photos of that area that in stock condition?  This👇is what I’m finding.
IMG_1151.thumb.jpeg.01899a5ef0004c485abdfa2c8b6f4d33.jpeg

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Edited by Wandering Sagebrush

Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 

2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L

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Steve - 

I'm guessing that the attached really doesn't help you very much, but its all I have.

Hope it helps some.

Bill

P1030172.JPG

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2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Bill, thank you!

I just stumbled on to John Davies post from a few years ago, and I suspect that our Ollie is one that received refrigerators that had the fan mounted between the upper and lower coils.  In which case the options are pull the refrigerator out, or disconnect the power wire to the fan, as John showed in his post. I’m going to do the latter, and if I have cooling issues I’ll add a fan at the top.

Sure wish I had found this thread earlier.   Looks like I’m going to button things up after replacing all the aluminum tape, etc.. 🤷‍♂️

Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 

2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L

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Posted (edited)

I'm wondering how your fridge works at all, on gas.

I don't have a photo of mine before we converted to a dc fridge, but I don't see how the exhaust heat can evacuate with all that insulation in place.

If someone doesn't answer with a properly vented fridge, send in a ticket. I'm sure Jason or someone can tell you what it looked like before that retrofit...

Edited by SeaDawg
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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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Hi Steve,

We are in Grapeland, Tx experiencing a few thunderstorms following the eclipse event earlier.  The rest of today and most of tomorrow will be on the iffy side with the weather BUT we have Hull 996 with an Oliver microwave installed and our upper exterior compartment for the fridge is  a little different from yours.  I'll try to get some pictures to post tomorrow or the the next day to show how we did our installation.  We have the Beech Lane 2 fan combo that is featured in Don's (dhaig) post.  We are happy with the install and the results.  We had (and still have) Oliver's single fan installed, where they put it, and our desire was to put in the Beech Lane fans and have them set to come on prior to the single fan...so far, so good.  Our motivations were the single fan was becoming a little too noticeable (noise wise) and the struggle with summer temps..  The Beech Lane fans, even at their fastest speed, are much quieter on the inside of the cabin. We have yet to see the impact on our batteries while boondocking, so I can't help there.  And the summer is still on the horizon.  Our install went well and the result mostly shows that we're able to operate using a slightly lower setting (on the control panel) and hold a more consistent temp inside the freezer.  We are happy with the effort and would do it again.  The noise reduction is appreciated.  This all was done within the past week...so no long term supporting data.  Hope to send photos soon.

John

3 hours ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:

As I peeled back the aluminum tape, I’m finding layers of Styrofoam sandwiched in between the fridge top and what appears to be a piece of honeycomb composite shelving, then another layer of Styrofoam up to the fiberglass top, all sealed with an adhesive or injected foam.

My only opinion on your photo is the original owner was trying to seal up dead air spaces and redirect the exhaust out the top vent.

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Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

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Here's my DIY document for refer fan.

GJ

DYI - Titan Motorhome Fridg Fan.docx

 

Edited by Geronimo John
Typo
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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 

2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L

Not knowing your year, but guessing your Hull 364 is a 2018 as is ours.

If that's the case, your should look like mine and it is the same as Rideandfly's pictures.

We had under cooling and over heating concerns and added the  double fan posted above.  it has helped quite a bit in very warm or HOT conditions.

GJ

 

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

I'm wondering how your fridge works at all, on gas.

I don't have a photo of mine before we converted to a dc fridge, but I don't see how the exhaust heat can evacuate either all that insulation in place.

If someone doesn't answer woth a properly vented fridge, send in a ticket. I'm sure Jason or someone can tell you what it looked like before that retrofit...

The sealing mod actually did a good job of routing the exhaust heat to the vent.  Not knowing what was behind it led me to remove the aluminum tape and bent plates that directed the heat out.  Curiosity got the better of me.  I will reseal that area, and it will again resemble the photos that @topgun2 and @rideandfly offered.  
 

I am going to disconnect the existing (screamer) fan as shown in the older thread that John Davies posted. There’s a good chance I will install a new fan much like @topgun2 did, using the now identified DC source.   Chances are it will be switched, too 😊.

Thanks all for your help!

Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 

2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L

ALAKAZARCACOFLGAHIIDILINIAKSKYLAMAMNMSMO

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9 hours ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:

Does anyone have photos of that area that in stock condition?

I don’t think you get to blame that on a previous owner.  I also have a 2018 and that’s the same way mine looks too.  That IS the stock condition.  I’ve had to re-tape the factory job, and then take another swing at it a year later after my 1st try came loose.  It looked like they used scrap styrofoam and dunnage they picked out of the dumpster to make up spacers to wedge our refrigerators in place.   Not only was it poor workmanship, mine was mounted in the opening crooked, mosquitos and road dust get into the camper around the refrigerator because it’s not sealed well against the outside, the refrigerator eventually worked its mounting screws loose, but the biggest disappointment was the refrigerator was delivered DOA.   It seems 2018 was not a good year for Oliver refrigerators.   I am the original owner.  

Edited by KenB
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11 hours ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:

using the now identified DC source.   Chances are it will be switched, too 😊.

Although my Ollie #193 has the fan in the same location as @topgun2 and @rideandfly I had to replace the original fan due to noise.  My fan has an on or off switch mounted in the main switch panel inside the door and a thermostat midstream of the DC power supply before the fan which automatically controls the fan as long as it has the power switches on.  Did you find a thermostat in your fans DC power supply?

Mossey

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Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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@KenB, Mark told me that he sealed the back of the refrigerator to stop dust and cold intrusion.  My assumption was that all the aluminum tape was his work.  Now I’m not certain what was his work, and what was done at build time.
 

 @mossemi, I haven’t pulled the cover off the power supply, but will do that later this week, and wish I had that fan switch.  It would have solved a lot of issues.

Así es la vida…

Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 

2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L

ALAKAZARCACOFLGAHIIDILINIAKSKYLAMAMNMSMO

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11 hours ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:

I haven’t pulled the cover off the power supply, but will do that later this week, and wish I had that fan switch.

My thermostat was installed on the right side behind the upper vent.  It was attached to the black piping of the evaporator or condenser.

I haven’t tried it but I think running wiring to a switch near the main control panel by running up to the porthole in the upper cabinet above the microwave is doable.

Mossey

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Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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On 4/8/2024 at 5:26 PM, KenB said:

It seems 2018 was not a good year for SOME  Oliver refrigerators.

For fun:  To be fair, I suggest adding the word in Green above.  Our 2018 Hull 342 Refer works quite well (with the added dual fan installation).  Likely will continue to do so...... all the way until the day it catches on fire.    

For Real:  As soon as it starts to go south, eliminate the fire hazard as suggested by John D. years ago.

GJ

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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Installed and operating.  I removed the Beech Lane mounting brackets and made sure that I installed the fans so they would blow air out.  I used a screw from the mounting bracket to anchor the top right corner of the fans and stainless screw on the lower left.  The 2 metal triangles are cut and shaped from a rafter tiedown from local hardware store.  They rest on the plastic grill mount very well and prevent the fans from dropping down as the whole fan assembly resides behind the plastic grill mount.  I added the screw, bottom left, to keep fans from bouncing up when driving and then falling downward.  Same for the top right screw that was original screw from the fans mounting brackets.  The small clip was just a piece of strapping metal with predrilled holes.  It fits under the plastic grill mount very nicely.  I used some wire loom material behind the tubing and fins to mitigate fraying/rubbing of the wires.  The temporary tape holding the thermistor will be replaced by a couple of clamps now that I know what's behind the slant board.  I had to slide the microwave out to see what was behind it.  Lots of room there.  BTW my microwave has 6 screws on its faceplate to remove but I had to also remove 2 more screws, not visible from the outside, to get the plate off.  I had to shimmy the unit side to side and slide the microwave out and remove those 2 screws.  I probably could have kept the faceplate on but the plate seemed like it could be easily bent, so off it came. I drilled a hole through the MDF slant board large enough to accommodate the controller's connecting clip and decided to use the hole provided for the microwave power plug in the overhead compartment. I fished the connecting end of the controller through the microwave power plug hole and out through the slant board.  I temporarily taped in place at a distance to reach the fans power leads.   My power comes from the power and ground wires from the covered junction box, seen next to my fingers in one of the photos.  I used WAGU connectors and reconnected to where they were originally destined.  Please feel free to critique my electrical work(and any other areas)...I'm not an electrician...so far so good.  It works as advertised in both auto and manual.  I'm operating in manual at 70%-80% as I can't hear from inside the cabin and it eliminates frequent speed changes seen in auto.  Thanks for everyone's help!!!

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Edited by johnwen
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Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

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