12v USB-C socket upgrade

[rideadeuce]

Finally got around to upgrading the 12v sockets to USB-C 65W for charging iPads and MacBook. This socket also has an On/OFF button so you don't have to stare at blue lights with the cap off. Cap also closes securely much easier. It is the little things. 

Amazon link: https://a.co/d/01MrDdX7

Edited August 31 by rideadeuce

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, rideadeuce said:

This socket also has an On/OFF button so you don't have to stare at blue lights with the cap off.

Thanks Mike, for sharing this. I’m buying two on your recommendation. Love the USB-C for fast charging! I always cut the caps off these outlets prior to install, like I already did to the ones in our Oliver that we use. Not enough time in my day to fiddle with these caps unless it’s on a boat or my side-by-side necessary to keep the dirt out!

[MAX Burner]

10 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I’m buying two on your recommendation.

Same here.  We're getting 2, also.  We've got iPads, iPhones, and MacBooks - no more "wall warts"!  Thanks, Mike - good call!

[Patriot]

Nice mod for sure! I would keep the rubber cover/caps for sure, as the Oliver has plenty of night lights already 😄.

Just me. 😎

[John Dorrer]

36 minutes ago, Patriot said:

Nice mod for sure! I would keep the rubber cover/caps for sure, as the Oliver has plenty of night lights already 😄.

Just me. 😎

Like a taxi way at the airport, blue and green 🤣

[RichM]

Thanks for sharing.  These plug into an existing socket or replaces the socket?  If it’s that latter, is it hard to do?  How do you pull out the existing one?  These look great and would be much more functional with USB-C. Thanks again 

[jd1923]

14 hours ago, RichM said:

Thanks for sharing.  These plug into an existing socket or replaces the socket?  If it’s that latter, is it hard to do?  How do you pull out the existing one?  These look great and would be much more functional with USB-C. Thanks again 

They replace the existing socket. Check under your dinette seat and you can easily see what to do. I have a picture of mine (have not upgraded yet). You only need to pull two spade terminals (blue wire +) and then there is a threaded ring. To get to the one over the bed, you will have to pull the rubber liner in the cabinet.

The picture shows the ones in our older hull have screws left and right. The ones Mike shows above do not have these. I may have to patch the screw holes or perhaps there is a trim ring on mine that could just stay.

There are many models of these depending on your needs. The one @rideadeuce linked above has a 65W USB-C required for iPads. If you are only charging phones, 65W may be overkill (I do not know if extra wattage can hurt a phone). This one has two 20W USB-C posts and a USB3: Amazon.com: USB C Car Charger Socket – Newest 58W Lengthened RV USB Outlet 12V Socket Dual 20W PD3.0 USB-C and 18W QC3.0 Car USB Port with Button Power Switch for Boat Marine Motorcycle : Cell Phones & Accessories

This is a most simple install. A good way to get started and soon you will do more complicated tasks!

Edited June 30 by jd1923

[RichM]

Thank for the additional information and pictures. I think you’re right, a good first project to build a little confidence. 

[DunnYet]

I have been considering doing this but had a small voice in the back of my head that keeps saying “check the wire gauge and the fuses.” Any concern with moving from the 5 watts to 65 watts on the factory wiring harness? I keep meaning to do the math, but I am bad enough on AC wire gauges, I’m still new to DC.

[jd1923]

14 hours ago, DunnYet said:

I have been considering doing this but had a small voice in the back of my head that keeps saying “check the wire gauge and the fuses.” Any concern with moving from the 5 watts to 65 watts on the factory wiring harness? I keep meaning to do the math, but I am bad enough on AC wire gauges, I’m still new to DC.

If you look at my photo above, the wiring looks like automotive grade 14 AWG, though I have not measured it to be certain. 14 AWG wire has ampacity of 15A (16 AWG is 10A). 65W / 12 = 5.4A

Given @rideadeuce has installed his and of course he has the Victron app, he could check amps before, then plug in an iPad and check the negative change in amps to verify actual usage numbers vs. theorical.

I believe you'd be OK, but if 'twas me, I would upgrade the dinette area to the 65W and run new dedicated wiring to a dedicated fuse, since the fuse box is <2 FT away. Ampacity and voltage drop over cable length. The run to the overhead streetside bed is a long run and who knows if OTT has these outlets shared with anything else on the same run (wiring and fuse). There I would install the lesser wattage model for phones (20W) like the one I linked above, to be safer. We normally charge our laptops at the dinette anyway or via the 110V outlet at the nightstand and we charge our phones over the bed to be handy, so this arrangement works well for our usage.

[rideadeuce]

On 6/30/2024 at 12:21 PM, jd1923 said:

I may have to patch the screw holes or perhaps there is a trim ring on mine that could just stay.

You can find some that have a mounting plate => [Upgraded Version] 12V USB Outlet Qidoe 78W 3 Port USB C 12V Outlet Dual PD 30W & 18W USB A Port with Voltmeter Lengthened Aluminum Body Switch Waterproof USB Car Charger Socket for Car Boat Marine RV

https://a.co/d/07mCzHx6

The most I have seen using the ones I installed to charge an iPad is 4.5 amp or around 52 watts. I really just wanted USB-C connections since everything has switched over to that and to be able to fast charge my phone, iPad, etc. Of course the MacBook can charge easily from 50w as well. But I am not an electrician and routinely do things that are above my experience level so I will be the first to say don’t do what I do without doing your own homework. 

[DunnYet]

4 hours ago, jd1923 said:

If you look at my photo above, the wiring looks like automotive grade 14 AWG, though I have not measured it to be certain. 14 AWG wire has ampacity of 15A (16 AWG is 10A). 65W / 12 = 5.4A

That’s the kind of math I’m looking for 🙂

[mossemi]

On 6/29/2024 at 1:08 PM, John Dorrer said:

Like a taxi way at the airport, blue and green 🤣

Exactly!  They guide my 4 AM forays to check the plumbing and I sleep with my 👀 closed, so they do bother my sleeping habits.😉

Mossey

[jd1923]

But the deal is these models have an OFF switch. No LED lights when off. The caps are dust caps, for exterior use or seldom use. I already cut the caps off in our old sockets (2 of 4, the ones we use with USB connections) since they do not have LEDs and were always dangling, just being in the way.

[jd1923]

On 6/28/2024 at 5:10 PM, rideadeuce said:

Finally got around to upgrading the 12v sockets to USB-C

Thanks again Mike, as I finally got mine done today! I bought a 2-pack of these for $27: Amazon.com: 83W 12V USB Outlet Laptop Charger: Newest 2 Pack 65W USB-C PD3.0 and 18W QC3.0 Multi Car USB Port 12V Socket Waterproof with Power Switch for Car Boat Marine Bus Truck Golf Cart RV Moto, etc. : Cell Phones & Accessories

I looked at so many "Qidoe models" and ended up with the same choice due to this spec: "Independent Button Switch. The switch controls the USB-A port and LED Lights, NOT the PD USB-C Port. Because the USB-C port is a smart output, when the device is fully charged, the USB-C port will automatically power off and stop charging." Nice!

I hope this statement is true. I installed them today, but did not yet fully test them. I charge my iPhone at the dinette. The other is installed over Chris' bed. She could use a USB-C to USB-C cable to charge her Samsung Galaxy at night with the switch off, no blue LED light above her head.

Installation over the curbside bed is not simple. Remove the deck plate inside the rear kitchen cabinet. It's hard to see but remove the two female spade connectors from the switch. The large plastic nut for the outlet is between the two hulls! Remove the two screws of the cover plate and grab the old unit and pull and spin lefty-loosie until it's removed.

Look up in the opening and you will see the large 1 1/8" plastic threaded nut up there between the hulls. Ours needed a lot of cleaning after removing it, rubbing alcohol to clean.

To thread the new one, first reinstall the cover plate. I do not like/need the dust cover. I cut the cover off to use the rubber washer, allowing it to sit nicely in the cover plate.

Then push it up firmly to contact, turn it left a bit to get the threads straight and then turn it right and turn it, and turn it, until you get it nicely tight. Mine did not end up perfectly square in direction, but I got it nicely hand tight.

Then reconnect the wires. It's odd that they have the brass-colored spade for the B- and the silver spade for the B+. If I remember correctly the B- is in line with the ON/OFF switch. Take note of direction since once it's installed you cannot see what's what after it's up there!

Another nice little mod done, love it! 🤣

 

Edited August 31 by jd1923

[Ronbrink]

A few other options for adding USB ports:

Converts existing cigarette lighter ports to dual USBs.

Converts existing AC duplex outlet to multipurpose outlet with USBs. I installed these under the dinette table and curbside bed.

Power strip expands AC outlets and provides USBs. I used this at the nightstand before installing the following outlets. 

I installed two of these in the nightstand tabletop. 
 

Edited September 4 by Ronbrink