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Is there any way to drain the HWH besides pulling the anode bolt? Don’t think so but thought I’d try! Thx

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

Not that I’m aware of.  I think it’s the only way.  Mike

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I could not see any other way. Just got blasted again with the water and all the hard water white flakes. Second time now, even though I was trying to stand to the side. 🤣

Like to replace this with the tankless model one day. Just dreaming…

Edited by jd1923
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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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3 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I could not see any other way. Just got blasted again with the water and all the hard water white flakes. Second time now, even though I was trying to stand to the side. 🤣

That’s half the fun!  I know I’m going to get a bit wet.

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Likewise just went through this again yesterday, however this time around in order to prevent a projectile shooting out  from water pressure I stood to the side with thumb firmly pushing against the large nut while slowly rotating with the other hand. This did allow for a much more controlled release and by far less mess, and other than my shoes I stayed dry. I had never noticed the white flakes until yesterdays procedure. What’s up with that? 

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10 hours ago, routlaw said:

I had never noticed the white flakes until yesterdays procedure. What’s up with that? 

The white flakes may be a result of the sacrificial anode's chemical reaction with calcium in the water,,,

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14 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Is there any way to drain the HWH besides pulling the anode bolt? Don’t think so but thought I’d try! Thx

YES THERE IS.

You can depressurize the tank with the PTV on top, remove the valve and use a shop vaccuum with a draw tube or a siimple syphon hose to drain the tank.  

But frankly removing the annode is easier IMHO.

GJ

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

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13 hours ago, routlaw said:

I had never noticed the white flakes until yesterdays procedure. What’s up with that?

What I learned from a post a year ago, this is mainly the calcium from hard water that is released in the heater, due to the heating, the anode or whatever. @John E Davies had mentioned this and suggested a water softener, but I was brought up in N IL with extremely hard well water and water softeners. Never again, as I cannot stand the never-rinsed feel of softened water.

I rinse the Oliver Suburban HWH 2-3 times a year. In a way it's good the calcium ends up here vs. in the plumbing. Get one of these wands to rinse thoroughly. The soft plastic wand can't hurt anything. Push it all the way in and out, turning it 360 degrees to get everywhere you can.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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47 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

remove the valve

This could cause more issue than you would want, as the valve is harder than the pipe it's connect to and the pipe can get damaged or unthread on the opposite end (especially on one manufactured way back in 2015). There is no way to get a wrench on the pipe itself, only the valve.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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Yep, as previously stated.  

On 10/1/2024 at 9:46 AM, Geronimo John said:

But frankly removing the annode is easier IMHO.

GJ

 

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

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On 9/30/2024 at 7:06 PM, jd1923 said:

Just got blasted again with the water and all the hard water white flakes

I know it's not as fun, but opening a hot water valve at any faucet will relieve the pressure in the hw tank. When first learning how to winterize my trailer, I blew out the lines with compressed air without putting the hw tank in bypass mode. I can't remember the exact sequence of events, except when I unscrewed the anode that sucker shot 20 feet across my yard just missing me by inches. Live and learn!

Dave 

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2 minutes ago, DavePhelps said:

I know it's not as fun, but opening a hot water valve at any faucet will relieve the pressure in the hw tank.

Yes thanks Dave, releasing the pressure is key. I did not realize such pressure in the tank since I had not had the water pump turned on in weeks, but pressure was still there.

Yesterday, I drained it again since it had so much calcium buildup the first time. I had tested the HWH on electric and on LP (then tested all LP appliances ahead of our upcoming trip). I released the pressure, not at the faucet, but at the relief valve top of the heater. Removed the anode slowly and did NOT get wet at all, yay!

I made another tool for rinsing the HWH. The anode, with all its weight, is not easy to level and thread properly. I recently replaced the anode with a new one. I sawed the anode off the old one to create a simple drain bolt. This is handy for when you just want to fill the HWH, heat the water, and drain again.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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Posted (edited)

 "I can't remember the exact sequence of events, except when I unscrewed the anode that sucker shot 20 feet across my yard just missing me by inches. Live and learn! Dave"

Dave:

You were lucky!

Personal experience tells me that not being missed by inches hurts.  Remember that the height that anode is just about the same height as your "man purse".  I'm telling you that you will certainly remember the result of not relieving the pressure in that tank before you even think about even putting a socket on the puppy.🤪

 

Edited by topgun2
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1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

Remember that the height that anode is just about the same height as your "man purse".

LOL, yes that's exactly what was missed by inches! Just couldn't figure a polite way to explain it!

Dave

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2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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2 hours ago, topgun2 said:

the same height as your "man purse"

That’s a good point! First time I did it on the Class-C we had, don’t remember the projectile part, but I was soaked in calcium goo from belly to shoes!

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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20 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Personal experience tells me that not being missed by inches hurts.  Remember that the height that anode is just about the same height as your "man purse".  I'm telling you that you will certainly remember the result of not relieving the pressure in that tank before you even think about even putting a socket on the puppy.🤪

Especially if you forgot to let the Hot Water tank's contents cool down first!  

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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