Plastic Swivel Adaptors starting to fail - likely age

[Wayfinder]

I'm posting for an anonymous 2017 Ollie owner.  

This is why we should NEVER leave our trailer with city water on to the trailer.  I need to remember this too, or just use fresh water tank with pump off when leaving.

He heard water flowing under the bunk when hooked up to city water and found that the 1/2 inch plastic swivel adapter going to the water heater, under the passenger side bunk, had broken off.  Easy fix, but only if you had the Pex tools and parts with you. The trailer would have flooded with that much water pressure going into hull.

Here are some pics.  He also found out why, in his 2017 ollie, he had low hot water pressure (a kink).

Time to put a straight and right-angle brass swivel adaptors in my plumbing bag.  Spend a few more bucks to save the rig from being an indoor pool.

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, Wayfinder said:

This is why we should NEVER leave our trailer with city water on to the trailer.  I need to remember this too, or just use fresh water tank with pump off when leaving.

When leaving the trailer, e.g. a day trip, there are several things we check. One is to be sure the water pump is OFF. Likewise if on City Water I will shut-off our hose connection at the hook-up.

LP off at the tanks is also a good idea for safety.

If you leave pets in the trailer these things are more important and of course they need cool fresh air!

Almost as bad as water leaking into the hull would be leaving an electrical appliance on that could cause a fire. You could trip the breaker at the post. If un-plugged the batteries could run down. As we’re locking up to leave, I’m checking the shunt reading on the app to see that amps in or out is what’s expected. 😎

Edited Wednesday at 11:51 PM by jd1923

[Rivernerd]

Helpful post, with great photos.  Thanks for the "heads up."

It was my understanding that Olivers have scupper holes in the bottom hull that would allow water leaking into the bottom of the trailer to drain, preventing it from becoming a swimming pool.  Am I mistaken?

Also, did the unfortunate Oliver owner use a pressure regulator on the city water input connector?

I now plan to carry a 1/2" brass fitting and 1/2" Pex B rings, with crimper, on our next long trip.

 

Edited Thursday at 01:54 PM by Rivernerd

[topgun2]

52 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

Am I mistaken?

Nope - 

Those silver looking things on the bottom of the trailer are the scupper holes.  They actually even draw water vapor out from between the hulls while you are traveling down the road.

Bill

[Wayfinder]

I know what I’m doing soon. 😏

[Geronimo John]

19 hours ago, jd1923 said:

This is why we should NEVER leave our trailer with city water on to the trailer.  I need to remember this too, or just use fresh water tank with pump off when leaving.

Good thoughts for sure.  I take them a step further.

For the newer owners, when you hook up to the City water on-boarding port, your closed plumbing system comes up to the same standing pressure as the city system.  This includes your pump, hot water heater, and all your piping to the bathroom, kitchen and outside .  That pressure generally is much higher than the OTT pumped system, and can cause leaks. 

When not using this port, most leaks are slow drippers.

But if your system is connected to this port, you can get a really serious leak.  Especially if you some air in your plumbing, the high pressure City water and air in your system can cause severe water hammer.  And that's when fittings get blown out.  With a nod to JD's post above, when you have such a system breach, it will flow a lot of water into your hull.  If you are not there, your trailer suspension and MEP systems are at extreme risk.  Hence you really should be there when using this port.   

Unless my pump fails, my "Step Further" is that I don't use this port (except for winterizing at the end of season).  Just not worth the risk.

GJ

 

 

[topgun2]

22 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

I now plan to carry a 1/2" brass fitting and 1/2" Pex B rings, with crimper, on our next long trip.

You might also want to consider throwing in a 2 to 3 foot section of pex - just in case.

Bill

[mossemi]

@Wayfinder  Chris, are those panhead screws used to mount the return air vent grill for the heater?

I would be on my 3rd box of band-aids if that was my Ollie!

Mossey

[Chukarhunter]

For those without a PEX crimping tool, a repair with a comparable all-brass sharkbite fitting is arguably easier than a PEX fitting.  Mine broke last week and that is what I used to repair it.  It took me about 5 minutes.

[Rivernerd]

Great suggestion, as Sharkbite fittings require no tools.  NOW I plan to invest in a couple of 1/2" Sharkbite fittings, for the next long trip.    

A "heads up" with regard to the difference between Pex A and Pex B :  The photo below includes both "Apollo Pex" and "Pex-A" fittings.  The bags labeled "Apollo Pex" contain barbed fittings which are also known as "Pex B."  Note that the barbed portion of the fitting that is inserted  into the Pex pipe is slightly different on the Apollo Pex fittings than the "Pex-A" fittings.  They are not interchangeable.  They use different pipe and different connection methods.  Pex B uses a metal crimp ring with crimping tool, and is commonly sold at hardware stores.  Pex-A (also known as Uponor, Wirsbo or Aquapex) is less common.  Pex-A uses plastic expansion rings, not crimp rings.  Pex-A requires an expansion tool, which temporarily expands the plastic ring, which ring is then quickly slipped over the Pex-A pipe+fitting, then shrinks within about 30 seconds to create a tight seal. 

I plumbed my entire home with Pex-A with the plastic expansion rings, using a cordless expansion tool.  But, my Oliver Elite II was plumbed with Pex B using crimp rings.  My Pex-A fittings left over from plumbing my home are not compatible with the Pex B pipe and fittings in my Elite II.  So, when purchasing spare parts with which to repair the plumbing in your Oliver, avoid anything labeled "Pex-A".  Or, just buy the more expensive brass Sharkbite fittings, because they do not require installation tools.  And, when buying pipe for your Oliver, be sure to buy Pex B, not Pex-A, pipe. 

Edited 4 hours ago by Rivernerd

[Geronimo John]

Wow I'll need to digest your post a bit. 

By chance will our Pre-2020 trailers best use Sharkbite fittings and Pex - B pipe? 

With zero plumbing leaks in 9 seasons, I'm think for our 2027 season that it is for sure time to get to the Big Box store to acquire a small stock pile of the proper fittings.

Here is a starting point for discussion:   (Assuming all are 1/2" sized.)

• Half Stick of Pex-B pipe  (One Each)
• Female Swivel adaptor (See above, Two Each)
• Coupling 
• 90 and 45 degree elbows (2 Each)
• Support fixture for fixing the Pex-B pipe (See above, One Each)
• Stainless Steel Hose Clamps?  (Needed? Number?)

What above is not needed or is not listed?

thanks,

GJ   

[CRM]

On 10/29/2026 at 4:16 PM, Geronimo John said:

For the newer owners, when you hook up to the City water on-boarding port, your closed plumbing system comes up to the same standing pressure as the city system. 

Did they remove the pressure regulator from new units?