Leveling/Support Blocks

[topgun2]

 

 

These were made from some scrap 6×6.  Cut the length at approximately 11 inches – enough to clear the onboard jacks on level ground – and sand lightly.  Take a piece of scrap rope (I used plastic/nylon rope because it does not absorb water) at about 9 inches, heated the ends to stop fraying and added a bit or heat shrink tape for good measure.  Then using an electric wire staple attach it to one side, bunch it up a little so that you have enough room to side your hand under it and then attach the other side.  Finally, give it a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and you are the pride of the neighborhood.  Certainly a good, simple winter project.

 

Bill

 

 

[John E Davies]

Are these intended for winter storage while parked on concrete? I honestly can't envision dragging them around during trips, especially if I were going to be at irregular campsites.

 

I would caution people to make sure their wood is in prime condition .... if there are any weaknesses the block can split into two pieces when heavily loaded along the grain. Imagine splitting a piece of firewood. Across the grain is far stronger.

 

Yours are probably fine but they worry me, especially as they get a little beat up over time and absorb water and then repeatedly  freeze.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Try2Relax]

Bill,

 

Those look great, did you round all the corners off too, I use the same thing except I have a long and short one, as I use them on their sides stacked and this allows for different heights.

 

I am not the pride of my neighborhood however, no handle or coating, just pressure treated, I like the handles though.

 

As John referenced, are you using them standing on end?

 

John, I've found no inconvenience using them, they travel right inside the door (with wheel chocks) have never moved and are the first thing out for set up.

[Mainiac]

I have a question? Why the need for big blocks? Is it that the Ollie revelers don't extend far enough? Shouldn't a reinforced pad be enough?

[ScubaRx]

I have a question? Why the need for big blocks? Is it that the Ollie revelers don’t extend far enough? Shouldn’t a reinforced pad be enough?

 

Good morning Canoe12 and welcome to the Oliver Forums.  The Oliver electric jacks do extend far enough to not use any blocks at all.  It's just with the use of a tall block we have discovered several benefits:

 

1 - Time saved in running the jacks as you don't have to run them all the way down (and back up)

 

2 - Energy saved in not running the jacks so much (they are hogs)

 

3 - Less chance of accidentally driving off with them fully extended and bending the jack (you will simply drive off the block)

 

 

[topgun2]

Randy - I really didn't round off the corners, other than sanding them a little bit more, than the rest of the block prior to the poly application.  I have used them on end without difficulty.  The handles make the blocks easier to deal with, easier to see when leaving a campsite so I don't leave them, keep my hands/gloves cleaner and drier and reduces the chance of splinters.

 

John -  These blocks are not used to raise the Titanic.  Since I rarely camp during the winter, they are rarely used in sub-freezing temps.  The application of the poly was intended to prevent water absorption and make them last a bit longer.  The main purpose is for use as "stabilizers", fine tuning the level of the camper and as Steve says to save time, lessen the use of power to the jacks, and reduce the risk of a bent jack.  If I need to "level" the Oliver to any great extent, I normally use either "legos" or ramps under the tires on the low side.  No, I do not use these for winter storage - they are too pretty to be left out all winter ;)

 

Camp12 - Welcome also!  In addition to Steve's comments, I've found that these can be used when my campsite is not very level (think mainly boondocking here) and I need the extra height on the low side - I really don't like extending the jacks to the limit if I can help it mainly due to the torque that might be applied to them.

[donthompson]

I like the Lynx Levelers. You can stack them to get the height you need for each jack, they're light, take up minimal space in the basement, they're durable, won't degrade from exposure to water, etc. Having seen these wooden blocks, I plan to order a second set of 10 so I can limit the use of the jacks.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3/154-7504150-5611665?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VE3AJC5PMWDAT2AK9SGG

 

Don

[topgun2]

Don,

 

I always carry a set of the "lego" levelers but have found that I tend to use the blocks more often.  I guess it is simply because I get too lazy to put the legos together.

 

Bill

[Mainiac]

Thanks for the replies. I have used the 'Legos' under tires before, but I guess for safety I will use two 6X6 blocks sideways under the levelers. But doesn't mean I can't make them pretty.

[KWRJRPE]

Since I pick up my first travel trailer April 2019, I know nothing about leveling a trailer except what I have viewed on YouTube. I think I like the Andersen levers (ramp style levelers) coupled with the LevelMate Pro Bluetooth technology. Do you have opinions and/or experience with these devices? Since I prefer not to screw into the fiberglass, what adhesive tape (Velcro?) is best for attaching and securing the LevelMate Pro device to the inside of the travel trailer? My understanding, able to sit in the TV cab and back onto the Andersen levelers until the iPhone app indicates level. Maybe a spouse qualified in working a bubble level and shouting at the TV driver will work just as well? Thoughts?

[SeaDawg]

Paul and I have a no shout pact.

We use hand signals. Others use radios, or phones, or one phone outside to blue tooth speaker inside the truck for the driver. Take your pick...

 

We use dimensional lumber cuttoffs because we have them. They're free. Burnable when they eventually get a little rotten. and they work.

 

The Anderson system is cool, and , from what I've read, works. There's a cheaper alternative, beech lane, that I've read about, but never used either system.

Sherry

[donthompson]

I use the Andersen leveler ramps that you drive up on. I’m a solo traveler and have a good level that I use on the kitchen counter. I don’t mind getting out of my tow vehicle to check the level as I back onto the levelers. Rarely have to get out more than twice—you get to the point when you have a pretty good sense of how much height you need to achieve to level. I also use the Andersen Jack Blocks now under all three jacks. They are light, but take up quite a bit of space and they aren’t cheep. But, I like this system.

[KWRJRPE]

Thank you for your responses. Happy you mentioned the Andersen Jack Blocks - looks to be a good combo: Andersen ramp + Andresen Jack Blocks.

[DavidS]

Since I pick up my first travel trailer April 2019, I know nothing about leveling a trailer except what I have viewed on YouTube. I think I like the Andersen levers (ramp style levelers) coupled with the LevelMate Pro Bluetooth technology. Do you have opinions and/or experience with these devices? Since I prefer not to screw into the fiberglass, what adhesive tape (Velcro?) is best for attaching and securing the LevelMate Pro device to the inside of the travel trailer? My understanding, able to sit in the TV cab and back onto the Andersen levelers until the iPhone app indicates level. Maybe a spouse qualified in working a bubble level and shouting at the TV driver will work just as well? Thoughts?

John Davies posted a detailed description of how to attach a bubble level to the front of the trailer, without needing to drill into the fiberglass. I followed his instructions, and I am happy with the result. I can see the level in my rear view mirror, and use that with curved levelers.