Reed & Karen's Blog -

[KarenLukens]

Here’s a pic of my test setup with 1/2″ copper tube. Will the comp fitting screw into my tank fitting? That I could not figure for sure until I took it all apart…. Left side hopefully screws into tank, rt. to trailer plumbing. Dave

You want the 1/2" copper tubing to 1/2" pipe fitting, which looks to be what you have. The 1/2" pipe fitting will screw into the tank. Then just put another on the outside and screw it to the pex fitting that you pulled out with a 1/2" brass pipe coupling. You will want to put a good quality pipe joint compound on the one pipe thread. Screw the fitting into the tank first, then position the copper tube where you want it and then tighten the tubing nut to hold it in place. You can already have the second one tightened on the outside to the pex fitting and this will also give you a point to hold on to for tightening the inner fitting.

[Raspy]

Dave,

 

You cannot glue PEX.  It's inert.  In this case, if you findt he right diameter tubing to slip into it, you could use it on the pickup side where there is no pressure.  Much better to go with a copper crimp ring on a barbed PEX fitting.  If you want to run copper through your fitting and then connect to PEX, get a PEX fitting and solder it onto the copper. Or, at least a compression X female 1/2" and screw in a PEX X 1/2" male.  That setup might allow you to get it into a very tight spot.

 

If you look at my earlier post I described the fitting I think will work best.

 

 

 

Reed,

 

I'm gonna run my tank down tomorrow and see how far it gets.  Probably the same as yours.  Then I'll work on a fitting with the stuff I have here.  I suggested Rectum 5 because it doesn't harden like True Blu.  Not sure which might work best, but 5 works well on plastic.  Another possible choice is aquarium silicone.  Just don't use teflon tape.

[KarenLukens]

I looked in their tonight and man is it tight... They started using the long sweeping elbows this year and I wonder if they added a bit to account for the sweep? There was no way that the pipe could be pushed down but with a little extra length on the pipe above the first Tee, it could be dropped to the floor allowing a lot more water into the line... So that will need to be modified also. On mine, being the king bed, it looks like I might need to remove everything over the top of it to make the needed adjustments to the lines and the fittings. Here's today's pics, there's no way to get a measuring tape in there right now... When the rain stops, I can pull the heating duct out oif the way and get a better look. Got another email today from Jason saying that they have hired experts to figure it out...

 

 

[Overland]

Got another email today from Jason saying that they have hired experts to figure it out…

Reminds me of

.

 

Hope those experts work fast - my trailer is supposed to start construction in a week.

[KarenLukens]

KarenLukens wrote:

Got another email today from Jason saying that they have hired experts to figure it out…

Reminds me of

. Hope those experts work fast – my trailer is supposed to start construction in a week.

Exactly :)

[DavePhelps]

For the record, my water pump starts sucking air at about 35% full. I have to tip up the trailer after that, or refill.

 

The hardest part of this project will be getting access to the area for wrenches and other tools. With the tank out at the factory, it would take no time at all. Really, as there is no option for an outlet on the bottom of the tank, it has to be on the side, which requires some kind of draw tube entering the tank. I'll be curious to hear what Oliver comes up with. For the rest of us, anyone taking this project on please post pics if you are able. Thanks.

 

Dave

[STEVEnBETTY]

I just ran a test on our Ollie #219, with the trl perfectly level and the shower head on and spraying our pump pulled down to 25 on the see level gauge before it quit spraying,jacking the trl up .5 degrees brought it back up to31, again it quit at 25, at 1 degree above level it went back up to 32, and quit at 25. When I brought the trl back to level the see level gauge went to 10 percent, I believe at +1 percent above level the refrigerator is still within its working parameters. If you want the tank completely empty 1 1/2 - 2 percent will do it. I guess the point I'm trying to make is, I don't think the potential risk of damaging the fresh water tank is worth the possible gain, if Oliver comes up with an fix great!!! But until then I don't have an issue with jacking the trl up.

[Raspy]

I just ran a test on our Ollie #219, with the trl perfectly level and the shower head on and spraying our pump pulled down to 25 on the see level gauge before it quit spraying,jacking the trl up .5 degrees brought it back up to31, again it quit at 25, at 1 degree above level it went back up to 32, and quit at 25. When I brought the trl back to level the see level gauge went to 10 percent, I believe at +1 percent above level the refrigerator is still within its working parameters. If you want the tank completely empty 1 1/2 – 2 percent will do it. I guess the point I’m trying to make is, I don’t think the potential risk of damaging the fresh water tank is worth the possible gain, if Oliver comes up with an fix great!!! But until then I don’t have an issue with jacking the trl up.

 

I suppose it wouldn't be hard to get used to a slightly nose high attitude.  In fact, I'm not as particular with mine as you seem to be.  I have no idea how you can determine level within 1/2 degree, or why it needs to be that precise.  Different places in the trailer don't agree with each other, so it's not that big of a deal.  There doesn't seem to be any best place to measure it except maybe the bed or the kitchen counter.  The front jack bubble level is definitely not it, the counter in front of the microwave is not it, the floor inside the door isn't it.  I've more or less settled on the sink counter top to set my bubble,   mainly as a consistent place.

[STEVEnBETTY]

I used a cell phone app for the level. Actually I'm not that obsessed with level, just running a test, when I camp I use a foot long bubble level inside the refrigerator. The refrigerator is the only component that's sensitive to level, but I think concern only comes into play after extended periods of time. Not sure how long?

[KarenLukens]

I figured that the seam would be the best place to get a true level. So after I leveled it from the seam and checked the floor, I put 2 levels inside and then 3 outside. One in the trunk above the outside shower so that I can see if I need to raise it when dumping. Then one behind the door like Casita and one above the propane cover that I can see in my rear view mirror.

 

We are waiting on Oliver being that we have a few other miner issues that they are working with us on and I won't proceed without their consent.

 

If the line came out of the tank sloping down, we would get more out of it, but we run dry at 38% and the line looks level from what I can see. So as soon as it gets below the top of the pipe, it loses prime. The fix itself is simple, but getting a certified fix may be a different story.

 

 

[KarenLukens]

The middle of June here in northern, Cal. and it snowed a bit today. We might wake up covered with it in the morning, though it says only a couple inches :)

 

The view out of Goldilocks back window.

[KarenLukens]

Haha, it says 10pm on the post but here it's just 8pm and the sun is getting ready to set, we still have daylight coming in the windows.

[Raspy]

I looked carefully at my water tank and fittings today.    It is possible to install a new suction fitting in the tank with a bit of creativity.  This new fitting could have a pass through dip tube that angles down to get more water.

 

I have a procedure in mind to do this if anyone is interested.  The fitting itself is one issue, but the routing of the PEX to the pump is another.  It looks to be fairly straightforward if done correctly.

 

Interestingly, the tank is only about 4" deep and it looks like the pickup could be as much as 1" lower, so that would mean 25% lower in the tank which might mean 25% more of the volume available.

 

The real fix for future trailers would be to make a top fitting with a dip tube going straight to the bottom of the tank  There is plenty of room for it too.  It might be possible to retrofit a top fitting if someone had the right plastic welding setup, but I don't.

 

I'm a little concerned about screwing a new pickup fitting into the existing lower threaded opening on the tank.  Those can crack.   If they do, they are hard to fix.

[Raspy]

Here is a link to the Spin Welding process.  Using this method might be easier than making a new fitting for the existing port and installing it.  This method could be used to add a 1/2"pipe, top fitting, to the tank.  There appears to be plenty of room to do this in place.  Then a simple PEX or copper dip tube could be installed and piped with PEX to the pump. The existing line would be plugged.

 

This method would fix the existing tanks, in place, and could also be used for new trailers.  It would also allow easy removal/replacement of the dip tube if necessary.

 

I have also worked out how to tie the PEX suction line into the pump line in a very simple way.

 

Reed, maybe yours should be the first one done this way.  I can go over the details with you to see what you think.

 

 

 

[KarenLukens]

Yep, the top fitting would be best by far. Then the tank drain could be left on the lower line just to provide a back up that could be left open in the winter for air pressure equalization. It still needs a real drain but with the top fitting pick up tube being placed in that right corner, there would no longer be a need to use antifreeze and the drain that's there now wouldn't do much anymore.

 

I'm still under warranty, so I need to hear what Oliver comes up with. Then they can contract it out if needed.

[Raspy]

I've ordered the parts and should be ready to do mine next week.  I'll document it and you guys can see if you like the method.

 

A couple of special tools are required, but the installation won't be too hard.

 

The existing tank drain is retained.

 

Stay tuned.

[John E Davies]

Add me to the list of interested parties for an angled or vertical pickup tube. I tested my system today and the pump cavitated at 20 gallons used. Elevating the coupler 4 inches got me 6 more gallons, but that angle is not comfortable or particularly practical.... I notified Oliver and will see what they come up with. At this point, converting my unused 18 gal black tank to fresh looks even more tempting.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Raspy]

John,

 

It seems like we all have the same problem.  The top of the horizontal outlet is about 1 1/2" above the tank floor.  So when the water reaches that level, air enters the system.   And since the tank is only about 4" deep, 1 1/2" is a large percentage of the capacity.

[John E Davies]

John, It seems like we all have the same problem. The top of the horizontal outlet is about 1 1/2″ above the tank floor. So when the water reaches that level, air enters the system. And since the tank is only about 4″ deep, 1 1/2″ is a large percentage of the capacity.

I am more than a little peeved that this design is a decade old and there has apparently been no attempt to correct that serious flaw until now.

 

Do all older hulls stay hooked up constantly to city water ... ?

 

When I looked at an XP Camper, I was very impressed by the water tank. It is tall,  narrow front to back, and full width across the front wall. All 75 gallons (!) are usable without any fuss.

 

I made a placard:

 

 

LOL.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[KarenLukens]

Yup, 38% and you're done... Because if you raise the tongue and leave it up... out goes the fridge.

[KarenLukens]

It was nice to see one of our boondocking pictures, used in an add on the Oliver face book page yesterday. Our friend Mark joined us Monday in his Bigfoot and is going to be here with us for a few days. Then we will all meet up again in Bandon, OR for the rally :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JWalmsley]

Thank you for sharing your picture Karen! We love it.

 

Please share with us more of your wonderful pictures. :)

[Commanche]

I’ve ordered the parts and should be ready to do mine next week. I’ll document it and you guys can see if you like the method. A couple of special tools are required, but the installation won’t be too hard. The existing tank drain is retained. Stay tuned.

 

John, when you do the mod, start a new thread, so it will be easy to find.

 

Stan

[KarenLukens]

We got the Micro-Air Easy Start installed today and was surprised to see it recommended to be just held in with double sided tape. But the install was quick and easy after we got the Dometic cover off... Once again stripped out screws were installed into the cover making it a pain to get apart, but all's well that ends well and I don't need to go up there every day so that's done. The only problem now is that since we're boondocking, we don't have any shore power to plug into, so that won't get tested until next week...

 

Then...

 

The fan went out on the fridge and we had to trace that out... After running a jumper everywhere and testing everything, it was a simple fix. The spring in the fuse socket had been over compressed at one time and it wasn't making the connection. It worked fine when we picked it up but somewhere in there, the fuse wasn't touching the spring clip, so it couldn't get power. As I was going thru everything, I pulled the cover off of the switch and checked it and this was the first time that I had ever taken that cover off so I snapped a pic. So now, in 92° weather today, the fan is working and it should keep the fridge down at a working temp, I guess... I keep the fridge door by the fan cracked open so no heat can get trapped inside of it anyway, and that so far has really worked well :)

 

Reed

 

[KarenLukens]

Last night I thought Karen was getting up but, she was still sleeping next to me. I knew that Riffles couldn't move us that much so I went back to sleep. This afternoon I found out that I had felt my first earth quake in a trailer ever. They weren't big, but the trailer rocked just like one of us was getting up but a whole lot of movement. We've only felt a handful of earthquakes here in the last 60 years that I can remember, but last night was a first for our Goldilocks :)

 

 

We are still boondocking in our woods, I moved Goldilocks forward about 10' so that the Solar panels get a few hours of direct sun and it's doing ok but we still need to run the generator every few days. I have a lot of sun hitting just off of the street side of the trailer but I just don't want to park her in the sun, so tomorrow I'm going to hook up our Renogy Solar Suitcase directly to the batteries and see what that does compared to the Zamp system. I cleaned the panel's last week but they just don't seem to be meeting my expectations for the amount of sun that we are getting and being that we are using no power during the day for the last few days. Tonight we are starting out at 12.2vdc after a full day of charge with everything turned off. So we started out at 12.4vdc yesterday and instead of gaining, we still lost more. The fridge is on propane, all fans are off, the temp is in the high 70's, so where's the power going? So I will see what happens running both, then I will shut down the Zamp system and see how the 100watt Solar Suitcase does.