Wheels, model, warranty, care

[John E Davies]

From pictures I have concluded that the supplied wheels are Ion 71 alloys with machined finish.

 

 

http://www.thewheelgroup.com/?products=style-71

 

Is this correct? If so, here is warranty and care information. I don't recall seeing this in the manual. Corrosion is not covered, and is due to what they call "improper care".

 

RECOMMENDED WHEEL CARE

 

Wheels should be cleaned by hand regularly to remove contaminants like road grime, salt, ice/snow melting chemical, dirt, and brake dust.

Automatic spray and touch free car washes do not completely remove contaminants, these can cause harm to the finish, hand washing is highly recommended.

Many areas of the country use road salts and chemicals during the winter months that can cause adverse effects on your wheels, it is recommended to clean more frequently during this season. Failure to do so may greatly reduce the life of the product.

Avoid using automatic car washes, the cleaning agents and brushes used to clean tires can damage the wheel surface.

Never wash your wheels when they are still hot from driving. Do not attempt to cool hot wheels with water, this may cause damage to the finish and can warp the brake rotors and/or drums.

For PVD and Chrome plated wheels, a simple solution such as car wash soup and water, will keep it clean and maintained when applied regularly.

 

http://www.thewheelgroup.com/warranty/

 

If you drive through deicers will these pit and corrode immediately? There is no indication that they have a clear coat. I love the look but wonder how they hold up long term. Could those of you with older units, especially those in northern areas, post closeup pictures?

 

How do the wheels stand up to gravel rash?

 

I am seriously considering replacing them with steel wheels that can quickly and easily  be refinished with an aerosol wheel paint as they get scarred up.... I would store the originals in pristene condition for a future resale of the trailer.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pack-Trailer-Wheel-Silver-Rims-16-x-6-Modular-Style-6-Lug-On-5-5-/182531823775

 

BTW steelies are WAY stronger than those Ions: these are rated at 3760 lbs. The Ions have a very low 2200 lb load rating. If one tire on your loaded down Elite II blows, you have immediately severely overloaded the other Ion wheel on that side. Not good!

 

Thanks for your comments.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[Raspy]

I think you're overthinking this. Steelies are also heavier and the finish will have to have maintenance too.

 

I doubt anyone has had trouble wth the aluminum wheels. Remember, The 3500 lb axles are only rated at 1,750 lbs per side. So, in theory, the wheels are already stronger than the axles. Of course, the axles will take much more than that in real world conditions.

 

Reed's wheels don't have the fake rivets, so not sure which ones you'll actually get.

 

I just bought a set of (6) Star Wheels for another trailer, see link, from my supplier for $50. each. They are rated for 3,200 lbs each. IMHO, they look better and are lighter than the steelies, while being plenty strong. You could go with those if you wanted a stronger design, but like aluminum vs steel.

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/HWT/TTWAL04167655.html

[John E Davies]

John, Thanks for the comments.

 

I understand that the axles are rated for 1750 "per side" but they have a huge safety margin. Cheap cast alloy wheels don't, and if something should fail, it will most likely be a wheel.

 

My main concern is corrosion. Once the pretty polish is attacked and pitted there is really nothing you can do to correct it. I once bought a set of beautiful polished Mickey Thompson wheels that were ruined during a single brief drive on deicer-wet roads here in Spokane. They sat damp overnight and this is what I saw when I rinsed them off the next day. These white spots are actually deep pits in the aluminum. They show up white because of the flash - they were actually not a different color than the rim. The wheels had a fresh coat of car wax on both sides.

 

 

 

Discount Tire took them back and sold me a set of painted and clear coated wheels that held up for a decade. They were not happy to do it, but they did understand that this sort of instant corrosion should not happen.

 

But it can and does... The problem is well known. The wheel manufacturer says "Clean them in winter to preserve the finish", but sometimes that is simply not possible to do when the temps are below freezing. I really would like to hear from those of you in northern climes. Show me a picture of a five year old Ollie wheel that has been through some less than ideal weather and road conditions.

 

BTW, refinishing a plain painted _steel_ wheel is dead simple and cheap. A can of primer and two cans of spray paint will re-do the outside of four wheels, easily, in a couple of hours. Most of the time is used in sanding and masking the tires and valve stems.... https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0

 

Painting aluminum, so that it will stay on, is much more of a challenge!

 

Finally, heavier wheels are a non-issue with a trailer since they are unsprung weight and do not add to the load carried by the axles and suspension. Except for the spare in back...   They will however show up when you put it on a truck scale.

 

Thanks.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[STEVEnBETTY]

John, Thanks for the comments. I understand that the axles are rated for 1750 “per side” but they have a huge safety margin. Cheap cast alloy wheels don’t, and if something should fail, it will most likely be a wheel. My main concern is corrosion. Once the pretty polish is attacked and pitted there is really nothing you can do to correct it. I once bought a set of beautiful polished Mickey Thompson wheels that were ruined during a single brief drive on deicer-wet roads here in Spokane. They sat damp overnight and this is what I saw when I rinsed them off the next day. These white spots are actually deep pits in the aluminum. They show up white because of the flash – they were actually not a different color than the rim. The wheels had a fresh coat of car wax on both sides. Discount Tire took them back and sold me a set of painted and clear coated wheels that held up for a decade. They were not happy to do it, but they did understand that this sort of instant corrosion should not happen. But it can and does… The problem is well known. The wheel manufacturer says “Clean them in winter to preserve the finish”, but sometimes that is simply not possible to do when the temps are below freezing. I really would like to hear from those of you in northern climes. Show me a picture of a five year old Ollie wheel that has been through some less than ideal weather and road conditions. BTW, refinishing a plain painted _steel_ wheel is dead simple and cheap. A can of primer and two cans of spray paint will re-do the outside of four wheels, easily, in a couple of hours. Most of the time is used in sanding and masking the tires and valve stems…. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 Painting aluminum, so that it will stay on, is much more of a challenge! Finally, heavier wheels are a non-issue with a trailer since they are unsprung weight and do not add to the load carried by the axles and suspension. Except for the spare in back… They will however show up when you put it on a truck scale. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I don't know the alloy content of our wheels, but a good quality polish like Blue magic will polish bare aluminum to look just like chrome, i'm pretty sure it will eliminate minor corrosion like you describe. On the other hand I doubt Oliver would install "cheap" wheels, they have a good image to maintain!!

[Hikegsm]

Hi John,

I looked through our paperwork but couldn't find anything much about the rims. Our camper isn't onsite so I blew up a picture of the tire and the only thing I see mentioning rims. Hope it is helpful to you.

[STEVEnBETTY]

John, Thanks for the comments. I understand that the axles are rated for 1750 “per side” but they have a huge safety margin. Cheap cast alloy wheels don’t, and if something should fail, it will most likely be a wheel. My main concern is corrosion. Once the pretty polish is attacked and pitted there is really nothing you can do to correct it. I once bought a set of beautiful polished Mickey Thompson wheels that were ruined during a single brief drive on deicer-wet roads here in Spokane. They sat damp overnight and this is what I saw when I rinsed them off the next day. These white spots are actually deep pits in the aluminum. They show up white because of the flash – they were actually not a different color than the rim. The wheels had a fresh coat of car wax on both sides. Discount Tire took them back and sold me a set of painted and clear coated wheels that held up for a decade. They were not happy to do it, but they did understand that this sort of instant corrosion should not happen. But it can and does… The problem is well known. The wheel manufacturer says “Clean them in winter to preserve the finish”, but sometimes that is simply not possible to do when the temps are below freezing. I really would like to hear from those of you in northern climes. Show me a picture of a five year old Ollie wheel that has been through some less than ideal weather and road conditions. BTW, refinishing a plain painted _steel_ wheel is dead simple and cheap. A can of primer and two cans of spray paint will re-do the outside of four wheels, easily, in a couple of hours. Most of the time is used in sanding and masking the tires and valve stems…. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 Painting aluminum, so that it will stay on, is much more of a challenge! Finally, heavier wheels are a non-issue with a trailer since they are unsprung weight and do not add to the load carried by the axles and suspension. Except for the spare in back… They will however show up when you put it on a truck scale. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

I don't know the alloy content of our wheels, but a good quality polish like Blue magic will make bare aluminum shine just like chrome, I think it will remove minor corrosion like you describe. On the other hand, I doubt Oliver would install "cheap" wheels, they have too good of a reputation to maintain!!

[Try2Relax]

The older trailers had Pacer 162, I think that's the right model with brushed look, 16x7 with the "rivet heads"

 

From Yvonne's picture they've changed to something else, no more rivets. Sendel makes a similar looking wheel, could be those.

 

Edit-upon further review it seems they are more than likely the Sendel as theirs are 16x6 which her sticker picture specifies.

 

If so, they are rated at 3200lbs each

 

LINK

[John E Davies]

The older trailers had Pacer 162, I think that’s the right model with brushed look, 16×7 with the “rivet heads” From Yvonne’s picture they’ve changed to something else, no more rivets. Sendel makes a similar looking wheel, could be those. Edit-upon further review it seems they are more than likely the Sendel as theirs are 16×6 which her sticker picture specifies. If so, they are rated at 3200lbs each LINK

Cool, thanks, those are good wheels. I found a catalog and there is warrnty info. For wheels sold to OEM manufacturers, ie Oliver Trailer, it's four years, if to an individual, two years. I wonder why the difference?

 

http://sendelwheel.com/resources/images/2017sendelwheelscatalog.pdf

 

They also make an S63 steelie ;)

 

John Davies,

 

Spokane WA

[Try2Relax]

 

For wheels sold to OEM manufacturers, ie Oliver Trailer, it’s four years, if to an individual, two years. I wonder why the difference? ???? John Davies, Spokane WA

 

I would have to guess that an individual owner would likely buy a product on a basis of how it looks or how much lower the price is than another, whereas an OEM would be more inclined to follow regulations and engineering standards to ensure proper setup and use, at least in the beginning before it is bastardized for nothing more than appearance

[Raspy]

I'm surprised to hear that Oliver changed the brand of wheels, but the increased strength makes sense.  Especially since they were recently putting 5200 lb axles in.  I noticed that Reed had no rivets on his wheels and I do.   Was wondering what that was about.

 

I may install my set of Star wheels I previously mentioned.  Rated at 3200 lbs.

 

 

 

http://www.trailer-wheels.com/16x7-HiSpec-Series-04-Aluminum-Star-Trailer-Wheel-6-Lug-3200-lb-Max-Load_p_722.html#.WQ9zBKOZORs

[Raspy]

Just as a follow-up on the ION wheels.  I pulled one off this morning and looked at it.

 

Here are some interesting specs:

 

Model T-62, 16 X 7, with zero offset

 

Load rating 3000 lbs

 

Max pressure 60 PSI.

 

 

 

So, we can't run the load range E tires to their maximum of 80 PSI.

 

The zero offset number is important if going with the 16X7 size to clear the shocks on the rear and stay well within the fender on the front.

 

The load rating is higher than shown in the specs that were linked in John's first post.

[Try2Relax]

 

 

 

 

 

The wheels on #069

[Raspy]

Here is some info from the wheels on Hull #92.  I'm assuming they are ION wheels and I found T62 on them.

 

 

 

 

[Maverick]

John:

 

I have the same information on the wheels that are on our trailer, hull # 93.

[Try2Relax]

I wonder if they were even aware that those wheels were only rated for 60psi when they switched to them, I would tend to think they weren't.

[Raspy]

I'm pondering the 60 PSI thing too.  That is plenty adequate for the load, but it should be noted to prevent someone from going to 80 psi and then driving on a hot day to where they hit 90 PSI.

 

 

 

I bolted on a one of my new Star wheels, rated at 3200 lbs and I like them.  A better wheel I think.  But they sit 1/2" inboard compared to the stock wheel (1/2" more backspacing).  A bit closer to the shock, but better as far as the fender goes.  Only a small difference.

 

 

 

Maverick:  good to know you have hull 93.  We may have to compare notes sometime.  Do you have the Commercial TA tires too?

[Maverick]

I’m pondering the 60 PSI thing too. That is plenty adequate for the load, but it should be noted to prevent someone from going to 80 psi and then driving on a hot day to where they hit 90 PSI. I bolted on a one of my new Star wheels, rated at 3200 lbs and I like them. A better wheel I think. But they sit 1/2″ inboard compared to the stock wheel (1/2″ more backspacing). A bit closer to the shock, but better as far as the fender goes. Only a small difference. Maverick: good to know you have hull 93. We may have to compare notes sometime. Do you have the Commercial TA tires too?

 

 

 

Yes we do have the Comercial TA tires, and I like how they ride. What air pressure do you run in your tires?

 

 

 

 

[rideandfly]

Appreciate wheel maximum pressure information in this thread.

 

We have Commercial TA tires on 5200 pound capacity axles, Hull #075.  Could not find a load/pressure chart for BFG Commercial TA LT225/75R16 E tires yet, except for maximum load 2680 pounds each @ 80 PSI cold.

 

Found a Michelin load/pressure chart for Michelin XPS Rib LT225/75R16 E. Maximum load 2680 pounds each @ 80 PSI cold.

 

The following chart shows Michelin LT XPS Rib reduced pressure tire capacities.

 

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/load-and-inflation-tables/#/

[Raspy]

Appreciate wheel maximum pressure information in this thread. We have Commercial TA tires on 5200 pound capacity axles, Hull #075. Could not find a load/pressure chart for BFG Commercial TA LT225/75R16 E tires yet, except for maximum load 2680 pounds each @ 80 PSI cold. Found a Michelin load/pressure chart for Michelin XPS Rib LT225/75R16 E. Maximum load 2680 pounds each @ 80 PSI cold. The following chart shows Michelin LT XPS Rib reduced pressure tire capacities. http://www.michelinrvtires.com/reference-materials/load-and-inflation-tables/#/

 

Bill,

 

I've gone ahead and installed all five new wheels on my trailer.  Not that that was necessary, but I already had them and they have new tires on them. They are the star wheels I showed a picture of earlier.  Rated for 3200 lbs each and no pressure limit given.  Same 16 X 7 size with a very slight offset difference that works well.  Same nuts and center caps.  I think I like the look of the originals more, in spite of the fake rivets,  but these are better wheels.

 

Looking at the load chart for the Michelins you posted, and thanks for that, it seems that even at 40 PSI they are rated to carry 1650 lbs each.  Times 4 would be 6600 lbs total.  Way more than an LE2 weighs.  40 PSI seems low to me and I've got mine currently at 60 where they "look" about right.

 

The spare is an interesting situation.  As you know, the spare is a smaller size on the stock LE2 up to about hull number 200.  Well, it's not just one size smaller, it's a 205/70/16 on the same size wheel and it's not E rated.   Lower aspect and smaller size, with a standard load rating instead of E.  So, I'm sure it's fine to get to the tire store, but not fine for a long trip out of the desert, for instance.

 

Turns out, a full sized tire will mount up just fine on the rear mount and I now have one mounted there.  The problem is that the fiberglass cover will not fit and cannot easily be made to fit.  So, I have decided to run a soft cover on mine.

[rideandfly]

John,

 

Our Ollie wheels are rated at 60 PSI. Been running 50PSI, but 60 PSI sounds like a better way to go.

 

First thing I did when we got the Ollie home was try to find matching 18" Ion wheels for the TV, but could not. Hope to eventually match the Ollie's and TV's wheels when we replace tires on both.

[John E Davies]

I looked closely at that picture and it says 80 psi not 60. Here is a copy with the contrast enhanced. No worries.

 

 

John davies

 

Spokane WA

[rideandfly]

John,

 

Yep, Randy’s wheels are maximum 80PSI.

 

Edit:

 

Raspy replaced his ION wheels maximum 60PSI.

 

Here's a photo of one of my Ollie's ION wheels, maximum 60PSI:

 

[Vector - Lanham]

Well, I hit a pot hole on the interstate..didn't think it was a big deal. BTW, i was on the way back from Hohenwald, getting some great service from OTT and Jason and Richie.  Still, guess what?  i had TWO, that's right TWO driver side tires fly off my OTT.  I recovered one of them, but i had to go to the right shoulder (I-55 between Jackson, MO and Cape Girardeau, MO) on the HUBS, on two HUBS.  I got it there, and there was nobody was hurt, although an older couple claimed to have hit one of the tires.

 

Wheels:  Because of the traffic, I couldn't take pictures of the wheels.  But, I looked at them w/ the towing guy who also builds trailers. the front lugbolts were sheared off even with the hub, while the other tire came off w/ the lug nuts, the lug bolts were fine...very odd.

 

Yeah, well, i had to get it towed.  GEICO, btw, sucked.  Gave me no real information, just took my information.  I'll be shopping.

 

I recovered one wheel.  I'll post a picture...that aluminum gave way like nothing.  I have no idea which wheel that was, front or back.

 

Very frustrated, just had it serviced, then this happens. It was towed to a local yard of good repute, have to wait until Monday to see the next step.  Wheel and Tire suggestions welcome.  thanks.  Very Worn Out Vector.

[KountryKamper]

Wow, glad everyone is OK! Post pictures when you can.

[mountainoliver]

Here’s a photo of the backside of my wheel from hull number 208. Note max pressure is 110 psi, max load for a 6 lug wheel is 3200 lbs. these are Sendel wheels made in China.