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Many of our camping sites are less than ideal and we spend a lot of time trying to level side to side. It can be frustrating. We are using leveling blocks now but making the ramp to drive up requires me to move the blocks between the tires as my husband moves up the ramp.  Then when we lower the stabalizing jack it often hits the leveling block for the tire ????  There must be better ways, how do you do it?

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Yvonne & Doug


2017 Legacy Elite II, twin bed


Hull #223


2017 Ford F-250 Lariat, crew cab

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Yvonne & Doug,

 

We started using a 2"X6" 5' long plank to pull up or backup on with both Ollie tires on the low side, then chock, and use jacks to stabilize on blocks.  Only needed one plank so far.

 

Have two 2"X6" 5' long planks for sites far from level. Have a two level chock to drive up on and level our previous single axle trailer.  Keep this chock for transitioning on and off of two stacked planks to reduce plank movement.

 

 

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Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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IMG_1738.thumb.jpg.e24b0f3fc4a67d26b6fd49eba4527052.jpg

 

This is quick and easy to use and I hate mine with a passion. I'm going to sell it.

 

You just set it in front of the low front tire and drive forward. But it is huge and sharp and horrible to store. I would rather carry a bunch of 2x6x6 and/ or 4x6x6 wood blocks and stack them as needed under the jacks. They transport MUCH more efficiently and aren't heavy. The Anderson version of this is plastic and not as heavy, but it is still an extremely inefficient shape to carry around all the time.

 

You can buy a single piece of lumber at Home Depot and cut it into everything you need. Cutting a 2 inch one is easy, cutting a 4 inch thick one takes more time and effort since a standard circular saw won't do it in a single cut.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Many of our camping sites are less than ideal and we spend a lot of time trying to level side to side. It can be frustrating. We are using leveling blocks now but making the ramp to drive up requires me to move the blocks between the tires as my husband moves up the ramp. Then when we lower the stabalizing jack it often hits the leveling block for the tire ???? There must be better ways, how do you do it?

 

Let's start by making it as easy as possible, and that comes with the right Level on the front of the trailer. Walmart, Camping World, Amazon all have graduated levels. I can see really good so I use the Hopkins Graduated Level and have it placed where I can see it in my rear view mirror. For my tow vehicle, right below the seam is perfect.

 

IMG_20170614_223325.thumb.jpg.55b718a8d1815fe2c7fd1f295eb87a19.jpg

 

These levels are numbered, and when the level has the bubble sitting on say #3, that means that you will need 3 blocks under the tires. I try to get it with in an inch and then use the rear stabilizers to level it out the rest of the way.

 

A15OJ3OQhjL._SL1500_.thumb.jpg.0eb5295cc69b8e7c676337231b8d7599.jpg

When installing these levels, one is marked for the side to side level and the other is marked for the front to back, so be sure that you put the right level in the right place. I bought 3 packages of them and have the one in the front, one behind the door when it's open, one below the bathroom window and another in the storage compartment, above the outside shower. This way, no matter what side I am putting blocks under, I have levels that I can see. Then I have 2 inside, one over the bathroom door and the other above the switch panel to the right of the kitchen.

 

If you are using the store bought blocks, then keep using them and don't get discouraged. You can just put blocks under the tires and not make a ramp. Right now we have one trailer on top of a 7 high stack, where we started out with 2 blocks, then put 4 blocks 3" in front of the first stack. Then our friend pulled onto the 4 stack and we put 3 more for a double stack of 7 under both of his tires. For extreme cases, you will need up to 4 sets of the 10 block stacks, because you will need enough to raise the stabilizers also.

 

Basically, if you want to get it right the first time, then the levels are the key. You will want to take your trailer to a really level parking lot and use at least a 2' long level along the seam to get the trailer as close to perfect as you can. You want it on level ground for this so that you won't have any frame flex at all. Level it and check the level on all 4 corners of the sides and front and rear. Once leveled, take out your new Hopkins RV levels and place them accordingly. Then just use them every time and before long, you will have it right the first time, every time :)

 

IMG_20170529_163913.thumb.jpg.76b1f6fadde730a09069ac92a4c69896.jpg

IMG_20170402_095900.thumb.jpg.71d7f9cb93cc6cfcd391af373b53b7b2.jpg

 

 

Lot's of times I will use a full stack of blocks under each stabilizer and the front jack to keep set up time to a minimum when pulling over for one night.

 

Reed

 

 

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Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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IMG_1738 This is quick and easy to use and I hate mine with a passion. I’m going to sell it. John Davies Spokane WA

 

Is that the Blaylock John? Make me a deal :)  I'd like to check it out just because... I had the Anderson Levelers on our Casita and like it mostly, but it was to small with the 4" max lift. I have wooden blocks also, cut from 3/4 exterior plywood. It lasts longer and is more stable than the 2x6 being 12 x 18" pieces.

 

 


Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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Is that the Blaylock John? Make me a deal ???? I’d like to check it out just because… I had the Anderson Levelers on our Casita and like it mostly, but it was to small with the 4″ max lift. I have wooden blocks also, cut from 3/4 exterior plywood. It lasts longer and is more stable than the 2×6 being 12 x 18″ pieces.

Hi Reed, yes this is it: ..... https://www.amazon.com/Blaylock-American-Metal-EZ-100-Wheel/dp/B000R5PMWE

 

It's certainly big and sturdy. It is cast aluminum with a shiny chrome plating. For parking long term it will hold up, especially if there is an uneven surface or rocks. I used it one night and the rest of the time it has been stored awkwardly in the doghouse behind the propane bottles. It really is intended for bigger trailers, I think.

 

Check your Private Messages.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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I carry several 2' lengths of 2X6 in the bed of the truck.  They work well for quick leveling.  We recently bought some of the yellow Camco legos and have started using them, especially if we're going to be stationary for a while.  I still carry the 2X6's because they can come in handy for other tasks.  Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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Andersen levelers.  Work great.  photo at Grand Canyon on a very uneven site but we were perfectly level. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=andersen+levelers20170330_195833829_iOS.thumb.jpg.10a2fd59bcddb52414515bbb95634736.jpg

20170330_195833829_iOS-1.thumb.jpg.60970edd4163771da4212dfe13e604fa.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Current 2007 Airstream Classic Limited 31


2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II (Sold)


2016 Ram 2500 HD 6.7i Cummins turbo diesel


 

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Another plug for the Andersens - When it comes time to leave you can either simply drive off these ramps (slowly) or you can reverse your original direction.  Assuming that you use a ramp for each of the two wheels you will have one ramp between the two wheels both starting and when you leave.  It is simple to retrieve these because either one of the ramps fits easily between the two wheels.  Since they come with their own chocks you can eliminate one of your two sets of chocks which frees up a bit of space for the Andersens.  For situations where you might need height greater than the maximum 4 inches of the Andersens, you can use either "legos" type levelers or carry a couple of 2x6's.

 

Either way - pick a method (probably the wood 2x6's is the least expensive) and experiment.  You'll soon discover what works best for you.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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We have four Andersen levelers and highly recommend them. We take two with us on the road and use one under each tire when our OTT is in storage.

 

Hap

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Thanks for the ideas everyone.  I'd been looking at the Anderson but thought they were a little pricey so have held off ordering.  I did catch a good price for a pair of X Chocks on Amazon of about $45 for a pair but they're now over $71.  I saw the lower price about a month ago, placed in my cart to order the next day and the price jumped.  Saw them again with the lower price a couple of nights ago. So, if you catch a lower price, order immediately.

 

I'll be reporting on an electronic level system that displays on your android device, sorry Apple user, it's Bluetooth version isn't compatible to your devices. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZDNR3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

If you want to play with it before ordering, you can download the app and use your android in local mode without the $75 sensor that mounts in the trailer.  (You could actually use it by laying your phone inside the rig on the floor.)

 

We'll be picking up our Elite II July 6th.

 

Brad - Santa Fe, NN

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. I did catch a good price for a pair of X Chocks on Amazon of about $45 for a pair but they’re now over $71. I saw the lower price about a month ago, placed in my cart to order the next day and the price jumped. Saw them again with the lower price a couple of nights ago. So, if you catch a lower price, order immediately.

https://camelcamelcamel.com

 

You add the Amazon item you are interested in with your "target price" and it keeps track of price changes, which you can view on a chart. It will alert you by email if the price gets down to your target value. It's pretty useful if you can wait weeks or months before buying. If you need it right now, all it does is tell you whether or not the item was priced competitively.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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We carry an assortment of lengths of 2x 6 and 2 x 4 cutoffs in a crate in the truck bed. We have a lot of short lengths leftover from building our house.

One year, camping with a group, we went to a local Lowes and paid to have 2x 6 es cut into 12 and 18" chunks for us and our friends in a hilly campsite, to shore up the tires and jacks.it was worth the $25.

For me, the chunks are a renewable resource, and most of what we carry is scrap destined for landfill, anyway..

 

Eventually, we burn it. But many of the chunks survive years of use, sweeping then off after use . I separate the ground contact chunks from the others. I've learned how to build "ramps" to get us to the proper height in hilly unlevel sites. I like to have support under the tire, not just jack the wheels off the ground....

Sans fancy level bubbles, a half filled water bottle on the floor or table, on its side, will tell you if you are close to level .

Sherry

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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Here's using 2X6 on the low side.  Going to cut shorter 2X6 planks to place under the rear jacks when backed over a curb. Jack blocks normally used were too tall to fit between the jack pads and curb:

 

IMG_0150-M.jpg

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Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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We have used 2x6 boards and the yellow lego blocks for leveling but it was such a production getting it right.  My husband hated carring all of it around. I ordered the andersons after reading all the positive comments about them and we love them. Easiest method of leveling we have ever used and they are compact to carry. A friend we camp with every year was so impressed when he saw ours he is ordering a pair as soon as he returns home! Thanks everyone ????

 

Yvonne


Yvonne & Doug


2017 Legacy Elite II, twin bed


Hull #223


2017 Ford F-250 Lariat, crew cab

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Couldn't your jack blocks be laid sideways?

 

We found stall (for horses) mats on sale at Tractor Supply by the foot. Not very thick, but easy to store, non skid, and easy to stack to get the height you might need. Also no chance of them damaging anything as you drive on and off. Just cut to length and width of you planks...

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The previous Ollie owner had built two light weight rear jack blocks with foam block encased with wood then wrapped with fiberglass cloth. He was also a fiberglass airplane builder. Use these to stabilize with rear jacks, but did not have room with the curb. Had to back the Ollie almost to the curb to keep the hitch from protruding out in the road.

 

Will check out Tractor Supply for thin jack material, good tip!

 

Really like these light weight jack blocks, too:

 

IMG_0176-L.jpg

 

 


Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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Reed--

 

I checked out the Hopkins level on Amazon. I especially like the idea of one level placed at the front of Ollie so as to be able to view it in the rear view mirror (or perhaps our Tundra's back-up camera?). While reading customer reviews, however, many commented upon the need to screw the levels to the trailer, writing that the adhesive causes the levels to slip out of level or even fall off after awhile. Did you screw yours to your Oliver? If so, do you know how screw holes affect the Ollie's gel coating? Does it easily take the screws or is there a chance of spitting or other damage? Do you know a way to cover up the holes well, masking them, if later one decides to remove the levels? Any insight(s) before I go ahead to purchase these will be appreciated.

 

--Jeff


Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


AZCACOKSMONVNMORTNTXUTmed.jpg

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Reed– I checked out the Hopkins level on Amazon. I especially like the idea of one level placed at the front of Ollie so as to be able to view it in the rear view mirror (or perhaps our Tundra’s back-up camera?). While reading customer reviews, however, many commented upon the need to screw the levels to the trailer, writing that the adhesive causes the levels to slip out of level or even fall off after awhile. Did you screw yours to your Oliver? If so, do you know how screw holes affect the Ollie’s gel coating? Does it easily take the screws or is there a chance of spitting or other damage? Do you know a way to cover up the holes well, masking them, if later one decides to remove the levels? Any insight(s) before I go ahead to purchase these will be appreciated. –Jeff

 

Just be sure the hull is really clean and stick them on... I've never had a problem with them and there's plenty of adhesives also if needed. I have the same style that I had on our Casita and they work great as is, BUT!!! the hull must be cleaned first. I just used 409... :)


Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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Did you screw yours to your Oliver? If so, do you know how screw holes affect the Ollie’s gel coating? Does it easily take the screws or is there a chance of spitting or other damage? Do you know a way to cover up the holes well, masking them, if later one decides to remove the levels? Any insight(s) before I go ahead to purchase these will be appreciated. –Jeff

Use the supplied self adhesive strips, then mask neatly around the perimeter. Seal with a good quality white RTV silicone adhesive sealant, a marine UV stabilized one, not a cheap one. It won't fall off and gunk won't collect in the gaps.

 

It is always smart to leave some little gaps where needed at the bottom for moisture to drain.

 

My level is sitting in my Honey Do box, maybe I will go ahead and install it and post pics. I am going to mount mine _above_ the horizontal seam, so it will be visible above the nifty Raingler cargo barrier net that I installed in the back of my 200. I think many folks install them below the seam, it depends on your vehicle and if you carry tall stuff in back.

 

BTW with gelcoat, drill your hole, then countersink the hole though the outer gel coat slightly using a bigger bit, or an actual countersink. That should prevent cracks and chips. Use sharp bits. Most gelcoat chips are pretty small and covered by whatever you install, so it isn't a big concern. Tho I don't like putting any hole in the hull unless I know the attached part will be there forever. Any hull hole gets 3M 4200 or 5300 for safety, not silicone....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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We found stall (for horses) mats on sale at Tractor Supply by the foot. Not very thick, but easy to store, non skid, and easy to stack to get the height you might need. Also no chance of them damaging anything as you drive on and off. Just cut to length and width of you planks…

I looked at horse stalls at North 40, a ranch supplier, and decided they were too expensive for my needs, way too heavy, and too darned big. I ended up buying a large truck mudflap, approximately 20 x 20 inches. Cost was $10 and I cut it into four parts using a razor knife to use as needed on the ground or to pad a jack foot. They are of minimal weight and they fit vertically in the odd sized gap behind my gas bottles (I have access hatches and a floor in there) so they essentially take up zero space.

 

I'm using an assortment of wood blocks, plus two of the yellow cube Lego blocks under the jacks, mainly because they are light. I haven't bothered with stuff under the tires. Other than my one time use of the big Blaylock leveler, which I promptly sold to Reed ;)

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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the hull must be cleaned first. I just used 409… ????

Reed, have you had issues with stuff sticking after a 409 wipe down? I have always uses a high flash point chemical like isopropyl alcohol or MEK. I would be a little concerned about a household cleanser for what is essentially paint prep. I do use the original 409 for lots of cleaning, I like to be able to buy the big refill jugs.

 

Thanks.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Andersen has a camper leveler that works great!  The link below is to a video.

 

 

 

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Phillip Andrews

 

Oliver Travel Trailers

 

Sales and Delivery Specialist

 

 

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the hull must be cleaned first. I just used 409…
????

Reed, have you had issues with stuff sticking after a 409 wipe down? I have always uses a high flash point chemical like isopropyl alcohol or MEK. I would be a little concerned about a household cleanser for what is essentially paint prep. I do use the original 409 for lots of cleaning, I like to be able to buy the big refill jugs. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

The only thing that I clean is the area under the adhesive strip, so I haven't seen the aftermath because the level is still there :)  We're sitting here listening to the fog horn at Bullards Beach, Oregon tonight. Raspy said that there was another Oliver here yesterday but the owners weren't around, then it left today... Anyway, Raspy & I will be here for a week in Bandon,OR if you read the forum and feel like coming back :)

 

Reed


Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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