Broken latch battery tray

[BorninPalatka]

After only a few months the latch broke on the battery tray. I would think replacing the latch with the same one would result in a reoccurrence? Has anyone else experienced this problem ?

[Townesw]

I have not had that problem. I would like to see a clear picture of that failure.

 

When I push my battery tray in I pull the latch up rather than push it in hard and let the latch snap up and then down.

 

When my battery tray is all the way in and latched there is about 1/8 inch slop in the fit. I stick a folded up piece of cardboard (until I find something more expensive) in there to prevent any movement when on the road. That much weight moving back and forth is bound to damage something.

 

 

 

 

 

[Townesw]

After looking at that photo of the failure and looking at my latch plunger I believe that it is made out of “pot metal”. And instead of having 0.25 in^2 of cross sectional area to shear there is only about 0.125 in^2 of cross sectional area to shear. I will be looking for a latch made of steel to replace mine.

[Townesw]

Well, the plunger on mine attracts a magnet so it must not be pot metal. The break in your plunger looks like it is a cast material. Will that broken off piece stick to a magnet?

[BorninPalatka]

The movement of the battery tray during driving broke the bottom ‘stopper section ‘ of the vertical latch. I will tell Jason.

[Townesw]

BorninPalatka, Will that broken off piece stick to a magnet? If it doesn’t stick to a magnet it is probably pot metal. My plunger attracts a magnet. I am attempting to determine if they made a change to the latch.

Thanks.

[STEVEnBETTY]

I haven't had any issues with the battery tray, but just as a safety backup plan I installed a simple stop for the tray. On each side of the slide rails, just beyond where they stop, when the tray is full pushed in and the latch is engaged, I drilled two 3/8 in holes and inserted 2x 3/8x1 in bolts.

[KountryKamper]

I would be curious if a magnet would stick to BorninPalatka's too. It looks like it is a different metal then ours. What did Jason have to say?

[topgun2]

Steve - Got a picture of that mod?

Bill

[STEVEnBETTY]

Materials required for modification: two 3/8x 3/4 in bolts, flat washers, nylock nuts.

[BorninPalatka]

Jason is sending a replacement latch which we will have to install. We like the idea of drilling holes in the side of the tray & using removable bolts to secure the battery tray.

[John E Davies]

Thanks very much for bringing this issue to light.... I just secured my tray, but I only added a single 1/4 inch stainless bolt. I really don’t think you need to have two. I positioned the hole so the head and two stacked lock washers were hard up against the slide with it latched fully closed ... it is going nowhere until I let it.

 

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[topgun2]

Steve & John -

While I like the simple idea of a using a bolt to prevent this tray from sliding, it does have its (potential) drawbacks. For those of us that still have the regular lead acid batteries it would be simpler to have an easily removable piece of hardware as opposed to the bolt. Obviously the problem is finding that piece of hardware given the relatively limited space available for it and not wanting any more movement in either the hardware or the tray than necessary. Once I get Twist back out of storage prior to this summer's Western fishing trip, I'll try a couple of things that might work in that space (wing nut, bolt drilled for a small hitch pin/clip, etc.). If not, there is always the bolt thing that you guys have used - thanks!

 

Bill

[topgun2]

Mark -

Vice-grips are always "sexy" - at least for you guys from Montana!

Bill

[BackofBeyond]

And a good tool storage idea - double duty!

[Townesw]

MontanaOliver,

Does that broken latch look like steel?

Or a cast material?

[Townesw]

Thanks Mark for your response. It looks like a casting to me. No machine marks and rounded edges. Granular structure at the break. Certainly not a machined steel bolt which would be stronger. Thanks again.

[Nick]

Yes I had the same issue. Latch broke in exactly the same place. Perhaps the weight of the battery tray is too much for the latch. I have requested a replacement latch. I share your concern that it too may break.

[Townesw]

Before I put the same latch back on I think I would order one of these and see if it would work.

 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/#2206a25/=1d0bia0

[Townesw]

Mark, so the plunger would go into a hole in the side plate where the other folks are adding the bolts?

[Maverick]

Last year when I had to replace the complete battery rack due to rail failures on both sides; I installed an aluminum 90 degree angle bracket mounted with 1/4 inch SS machine screw. Without removing this device the rack can not be moved out; but it only takes a few minutes to remove for battery maintenance.

 

 

[attachment file=Battery Rack - security mod 1.jpg]

[Raspy]

I wrote about this problems last year and "fixed" mine before it broke. The batteries are so heavy that any play will lead to something breaking while driving.

 

Whatever method you use, you must get the play down to zero so that the tray cannot hammer the latch by sliding back and forth while driving. If the latch doesn't break it will likely tear out the mounting screws instead.

 

I simply dropped in a wooden 1X2 stick, across the front of the tray, between the frame and the sliding part on mine and it has been fine.

 

I think Oliver has since upgraded the frame mounting bolts too.

 

This is an area that needs some attention during routine maintenance to make sure it is secure. Those batteries could escape right out through the exterior door causing severe damage.

[bwright]

I too have just placed a 1x3 piece of wood across the front of the slide out tray. It has worked great to keep the tray at zero sliding movement.

[Spike]

Thanks to all for this heads-up.

 

it would be simpler to have an easily removable piece of hardware as opposed to the bolt.

 

I'm thinking of ordering this and then drilling the hole:

 

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-21504-Hitch-Pin-Clip/dp/B00H56NAPY/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1528582773&sr=8-16&keywords=hitch+pin+with+clip

 

See any reason not to got with this?

 

[John E Davies]

That is over half an inch diameter, way too large and heavy, you may be over estimating the hardware required.

 

Why not just use one or two small (1/4 inch) clevis pins? Or if you want fancy and stainless, .... https://www.amazon.com/VTurboWay-Release-diameter-Stainless-Hardware/dp/B07CWC6V73/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528587602&sr=8-7&keywords=Clevis+pin+with+clip+1%2F4+inch

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA