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Window leak continues...


geO

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A little update on our back window. We tried to work on it some more this morning to no avail. You can notice from the picture that the window itself it's not leveled. The right side is higher than the left side and you can also see the weeping hole at the bottom right. When we were at the plant we told them exactly where the leak was. They had one job. We noticed the window not square, why didn't they??? The only thing left for us to do now is put plastic and duct tape around the window, since rain is in the forecast, order a new window, pay for the shipping and pay for someone else to install it. We are very disappointed.

 

What hurts us the most, however, is the fact that they disappointed us many times now and NOT ONCE they have tried to somehow make it up to us.

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I understand the frustration! I think I've been to the plant 6 times for issues since pick up. I'm 7 hours away from the plant and recently had to alter my trip out west because my easy start was not programed right. While overnighting at the sales office a strong rainstorm hit and I had a leak in the back window. They charged me for repairing the leak that was coming from the Oliver logo and told me all was well. I get home and a few days later during a rainstorm I see water still leaking in the exact place as before. If I'm at the plant telling you I just noticed a leak I expect it repaired.

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What that tells me, is that they attacked the area you thought was leaking.

 

Buy a roll of duct tape, now that you are home. Duct tape around the rear upper light. Most likely culprit. Check that with a hose, or a storm... Next most likely  is the ac bolts. I'm guessing your wondow weeps are clear... none in the rear for us, so nothing for us to check in the older trailers...

 

One year, we found that the overhead  vent had lost its seal. The rain found a path to the bellyband, and into my side of the bed....

 

I feel the pain. A roll of duct tape will help you find the source of the pain. One possible source at a time.

 

Happy to report,  we have no leaks. It was a bugaboo to find the tiny source that traveled down. A lot of years with nothing/ nada. Happy camping. You will  find it

 

 

 

Hope you will be soon .

 

Leaks in the oliver are no easier than leaks in our home. Rain travels....

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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SeaDawg, I resealed the upper shell yesterday and waiting for it to cure. I'm hoping the Oliver logo lens is not leaking because that was resealed while I was at the plant. I'm not sure how to remove the A/C cover inside to check the 4 bolts. When I take off the filter I can see 2 Bolts but not sure how to get to the ones in the back. Using a syringe filled with caulk I was able to get under the marker lights very easily. I hope I got it and I think I'll wait a few days before doing the water test.

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George -

 

Have you tried talking to Scott Oliver?  If not, I'd at least give him a chance to help you.

 

Bill

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2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Near Asheville, NC

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George,

 

Did you take off the AC shroud on top of your trailer and make sure all the weep holes in your AC pan are clean?

Also did you remove the interior AC cover and make sure the mounting bolts are good and snug?

Finally, When Oliver installed my AC, they forgot to connect the condensate drain tube coming off the AC unit to the long drain tube that exits the trailer. So make sure that is in place as well.

 

I bring this up because I'm wondering if that window, as it is, could be the cause of all that water intrusion. You may be able to tweak the hinge a bit to equalize the reveals between window and frame. But first I would for sure tape it off from the weather and see if water is still coming in. Instead of taping the seams, I would tape some 6mil plastic across the top and sides of the entire window on the gelcoat. Don't cover any marker lights or the Oliver logo light, you'll have to eliminate entry points one at a time. That way you know for sure if it's the window or something else.

Good luck, I feel your pain!

 

Dave

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2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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George:

 

I think that leaks are one of the most frustrating elements of owning a trailer.  I can only imagine your frustration.

 

The nice thing about gravity is that it rarely lies.   :-)  But our eyes often do.

 

If the leak is from upper window seal, then a single line of duct tape, horizontally placed on the outside of the hull, spanning the seal, from the fiberglass shell over the seal to the glass below the seal would be a simple garden hose  test.  If it still leaks water into the interior, then it would seem that the water is coming down the interstitial space of the hull from above.

 

Unfortunately, you'll need either a dry day, or a covered space to let all the trapped water in the hull excape.... then to test it.  That could take several days.

 

As Dave P. (above) mentions, and I suspect is the case, the leak may well still be coming from above, and the upper window seal is just the location the water is leaving the inter-hull space and entering the interior of the trailer.  If the above is the case, the water from above will find a place to exit the space between the hulls, exiting either inside, out, or both.

 

One other consideration, or test, would be to turn off the A/C and allow all the water to leave the hull wall cavity.  Then garden test the exterior.  If no leak, the run the A/C looking for it to appear.  This too would require a lot of time.

 

The above does little to solve the problem, but at least it could possibly help in understanding it.  Good luck.

 

Geronimo John

 

 

 

 

 

 

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trany, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

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The window is obviously skewed.  So I’d think that as long as it hasn’t been damaged from use, it should be replaced by Oliver at the window manufacturer’s expense.  I’d ask them to do it for aesthetic or functional reasons, regardless of the leak, though you’re probably correct about that being the cause.

 

Like Bill suggested, I’d send an email to Scott with that photo and an explanation of your problems having to go back multiple times to get things fixed  I’m certain that they’ll take care of it.

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This topic peaked my interest so I just looked closely at the rear window on my summer 2018 build. If I took a picture, it would look exactly like the one in George's original post. It's pretty obvious that the frame is out of square because the hinged escape insert makes no contact with the bottom plastic guide on the curb side but must be forced onto the street side guide. Likewise, my insert is slightly off-center to the street side. I haven't noticed any leak but further investigation of the whole assembly is pending...

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Oliver is going to take care of this window issue and I must say I'm very impressed with their level of professionalism in helping us. They truly are a company above the rest. Sorry for my ranting and displaying my frustration publicly on this forum.

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