Rleog Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 The dinette Alternating Current receptacle GFI tripped when I tried to use it yesterday. The red diode on the receptacle illuminated but the reset button would not allow it to reset and resume function. I can depress the reset button fully but it does not reset; red diode stays illuminated. No circuit breaker or fuse is tripped or blown. From when this happened yesterday I was still able to use the A/C receptacles in the stove area and above the TV, but this afternoon all A/C outlets, including the outside curbside outlet, stopped working. Again, no fuse is blown. The refrigerator and air conditioner still function on A/C. Stumped. Bob G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 If pushing the reset button and no reset. Sound like a defective GFI 1 Grant 2022 GMC Denali 2500 HD 2019 Elite 11😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overland Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 The GFI on the dinette outlet protects the whole circuit. All the other outlets are connected as if they were plugged in to it. So if there’s a fault at any of the 120 outlets, the dinette GFI will pop, and likewise if it does blow then all your other outlets go dead. Both the fridge and AC are on separate circuits. I’m inclined to agree with what Landrover said, since it popped when you tried using it. But then it could also be an actual fault somewhere else, so I might first try unplugging anything that’s currently connected, including the microwave, and then seeing if the GFI will reset. If it does then you know it’s something more serious. If you’re comfortable with electrical repairs (and desperate to use the 120), then it’s possible to quickly rewire the other outlets so they will work, but doing so would eliminate any protection so it’s not something I’d recommend. Better to replace the outlet when you have a chance. A spare GFI outlet wouldn’t be a bad thing to add to the list of spare parts to carry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Davies Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 https://home.howstuffworks.com/question117.htm/printable I agree about unplugging all the loads, then try resetting it. If it still doesn’t work, install a new one. These things fail all the time and you may have just gotten a bad one. You could ask for a warranty replacement, but in your situation I would just buy one at Home Depot and swap it out. It is not difficult, just be sure the shore power and inverter are OFF and then double check them again. If you replace it and the new one does the same thing, you have a wiring problem. You need to have a circuit tester (LED lights) in your kit, you can check every outlet. Make sure your tester can test the GFCI. Many do not have that feature. You need one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Tester-110V-125V-50957/dp/B002LZTKIU FYI most outlets are hooked up using the little holes in the rear of the housing. This “back stabbed” method is fast, easy, unreliable and possibly dangerous. Most residential electricians do this when they wire up a new home, it saves a TON of labor. However! It is always best to hook the conductors under the screw terminals instead, and use wire nuts if you need to connect several wires together. Back stabbed wires are very bad in an RV where the connections will be stressed during towing. I have never looked at my trailer outlets, I wonder how the factory wires them? Maybe I will go look..... https://www.handymanhowto.com/electrical-outlets-side-wire-versus-back-wire/ Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA SOLD 07/23 "Mouse": 2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rleog Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 Thanks LandRover, Overland and John for the quick replies. One thing that I found odd about this was that the outlets near the TV and the kitchen countertop both worked for about a day before they stopped functioning. The problem then became a real crisis because the Keurig could no longer be used! I unscrewed the GFI outlet to look at the wiring. All wires are securely fastened to the screw terminals. I purchased a new GFI outlet at HD yesterday evening. That’s today’s project. Thanks Bob G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overland Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 I thought that was strange too. Sometimes GFI can fail in the closed position so perhaps that happened and then for some reason later it flipped open. I’d get the best quality outlet you can find, since it needs to withstand vibration. And maybe a spare for peace of mind. In case you don’t have experience doing it before, here’s a great video on hooking up a GFI outlet correctly - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rleog Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 No luck after changing the GFCI. I used the better module that HD had in stock, the Leviton GFCI model GFNT1-RW, 15A-125V. The original unit has two line inputs (4 wires, 2 black, 2 white), and 1 load output (2 wires, 1 black wire, 1 white wire). There is also a bare copper ground wire attached to the green terminal on the bottom of the unit. I wired the new unit precisely the way the original unit was wired. This outlet had worked fine for the 1 3/4 years that I’ve had the trailer, so the original wiring must have been correct. When I restored power, a green diode on the front of the unit illuminated (there are both green and red diodes) but there is no power from the outlets. None of the other outlets have A/C power (kitchen, outlet above TV), the microwave has no power but the refrigerator continues to function on A/C. All of the USB outlets continue to function. All blade fuses are functional and no circuit breaker is tripped. Overland, the YouTube video was informative and reinforced that I had wired the unit correctly. Still stumped. Bob G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Mike and Carol Posted February 21, 2019 Moderators Share Posted February 21, 2019 I lost all of my 110v outlets when on shore power last year. I checked everything I knew to check. Finally I took it to my local RV repair guy who found a lose connection in the silver junction box next to my inverter. There were also a couple of other lose connections at the fuse box. Once he tightened everything the problem was solved. You might just systematically go through your wiring and ensure everything is tight. I’m sure my problem was from the vibrations of many miles on the road, if things are not tightened down it won’t take much for things to get lose. Mike 1 Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rleog Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Thanks for the suggestion, Mike and Carol. I systematically went through all connections that I could view and reach, notably the bus bar and fuse box. I couldn’t find anything loose or amiss. Unfortunately the problem persists. We’re currently at Ft DeSoto Park near St Petersburg, FL, for a two week stay. It’s a place that should have been on the top ten RV parks to visit in Florida, beautiful with spacious sites. Lots of passers by are impressed with the Oliver and stop to chat. So far no one has had a solution for this electrical issue. Bob G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainoliver Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Definitely check the junction box under the driver’s side bed. It is just aft of the inverter and below the inverter/shore power switchover relay box. I had a similar problem a couple months ago with the wire nuts in the junction box being loose and one melting completely. Not saying that this is the problem but is a known issue and being that it’s difficult to connect solid wire and stranded wire with a wire nut and achieve a guaranteed connection, it’s a good place to check. 2017 Elite II, Hull #208 2019 Chevy HD 2500 Duramax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted February 22, 2019 Moderators Share Posted February 22, 2019 I looked up your new gfci. A couple reviews noted that the load and line are reversed from the original gfci the users were replacing. Could that possibly be your case? We don't have any of your particular type in our home or in the trailer. Also comments about removing the yellow tape from the load side. I'm not the engineer in our family, that's my husband. But, he's taught me to always look for the simplest solution first. And, look for what has changed. I'm sure you have checked the power at the pedestal? With a tester? You've probably already investigated all this, but maybe it will help someone else? Good luck. If all else fails, plug the Keurig in on the picnic table, enjoy your stay at beautiful desoto, and make an as appointment with camping world in port richey. They're much better, imo, than lazy days or most of the local shops in Hillsborough and pinellas, especially if they are on your route. Good luck. And keep us posted. Sherry 1 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted February 22, 2019 Moderators Share Posted February 22, 2019 This link wouldn't load for me earlier. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/122125/new-gfci-outlet-green-light-is-on-but-no-power Chances are, you saw all this online before you posted. Sorry if it's repetitive. Hope you find the issue. 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rleog Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Sherry hit the ‘ole nail on the head (and probably should have hit my head with the hammer). The original outlet was faulty. The replacement (Leviton) was good. The replacer was faulty. Line and Load are arranged differently by these two manufacturers, as shown in the picture above. Note that the green ground terminals are arranged in the same relative position, which can lead to further confusion. Sherry, I would drink a toast in your honor but, as you know, they don’t allow alcohol at Ft DeSoto Park. Thank you to all who attempted to help through this thread. 3 Bob G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators SeaDawg Posted February 23, 2019 Moderators Share Posted February 23, 2019 Nbd. It's really "Howard " on the home depot review who deserves the toast. I went on the app to try to give his comment a thumbs up, but couldn't get it to work. Glad you get to spend your time on the beach, instead of chasing wires... Have you visited the remains of the fort yet? It's kind of fun. Enjoy your visit. The weathermsn ordered exceptional temps for our February visitors this year. I haven't had the heat on since a year ago, but the ac is kicking in a few hours a day, and that's unusual. Sherry 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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