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Dual Honda’s in parallel not working


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Honda generators in parallel is seen by oliver as “open ground”.   When either used alone, the neutral ground plug in the other outlet takes care of it.  I plugged a neutral ground plug in each generator one at a time and both  at the same time with no help.  Any ideas?

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Test the generators individually, and connected, by adding a load that is NOT your trailer, for example an electric heater or an old style 500 watt shop light. That will tell you if it is the trailer at fault, or one of the generators. This is how I load down, test and warm up my generator before I change the oil, it works very well.

I have never used a paired set so I have no specific comments on that part of the situation. Good luck.

John Davies'

Spokane WA

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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The problem lies with the Progressive Industry’s EMS. A quick work around is to simply turn it off. Then you eliminate the potential that there is a problem within the generators. 
 

If everything works as expected in this scenario, it indicates that the EMS is doing its job. I would then call the tech department at Progressive Industry.  They will have seen this problem before and know how to remedy it. 

Hope this helps. 

Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0026 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, HULL NUMBER: 0050 2017 Silverado High Country 2500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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I'd agree with john Davies.  Test your generators individually,  and paired, before you look elsewhere.

Try a neutral ground plug on one generator, without coupling. Then see what happens. 

We don't have the EMS, but we do use a neutral ground plug.  

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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I made a bonded ground plug for my Honda.  I was using the standard 20 amp plug to connect to a 30 amp outlet adapter on the Ollie.  This worked fine, but I decided to purchase a Champion dual fuel generator to use when we need power.  It has a TT-30 plug in addition to a 20 amp duplex outlet.  I started it and plugged into the Oliver using the 30 amp option and it never powered up.  I suspected that it was the same issue I had on the Honda but I had no error code on the Progressive surge protector remote all it said was “OFF” on the remote screen.  I did my due diligence and followed troubleshooting steps suggested on this forum.  I  verified that I had power on the TT-30.  I had 120 volts.  I checked to see if the LED was lit on the Flurion power cable at the Oliver.  I checked the Progressive remote monitor and it showed “OFF” on the display.  I then plugged in the bonding plug on one of the 20 amp outlets and heard the transfer switch activate.   I could have made this permanent bond of the neutral to ground under the front bezel, but I prefer to do it this way so as to not make any hidden changes.  The Champion seems to be well made, but is twice the weight.  It is 3400 watt surge or 3160 watt run.  LP gives you a bit less than that.  I believe it is 2790 watts.  

Edited by GraniteStaters

David Caswell and Paula Saltmarsh


Hull 509 "The Swallow"

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have Oliver 555 and both Honda 2200i generators, the std. one and the “companion” that has a std. duplex outlet and a 30amp outlet (L5-30).  That 30 amp outlet requires a basic adapter to allow the male end of the Oliver supplied power cord to plug into the adapter.  For a first trial trial I started the Companion generator by itself using the 30 amp connection with adapter and then connected the Oliver with its supplied cord.  I got no power and the E2 Open ground code on the EMS.  I Shut the generator down, unplugged at the Ollie and then added a neutral ground plug to its duplex outlet.  Restarted the Generator and replugged in the cord to the Oliver.  EMS takes a pause before allowing power the connected showing E0, Normal Operating Condition.  Being that the Oliver is new, Nov. 25th, I then tested the easy start, fridge and air conditioning.  Everything worked as advertised.  I cycled the air conditioning temp up and down and watched the EMS which would see amperage as high as 18amps when the air was cooling with the fridge cooling.  So I did not run the microwave at the same time not problem would I.  Therefore I can’t see hauling the second gen and hooking it in parallel at any time so I didn’t see any value in testing the combination.  Any thoughts?  

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"Any thoughts?"

I believe that testing is almost always a good thing.  Better to test now when you are not under any pressure and find out what works and what doesn't.  However, given the 18 amp reading you cite and having everything that you need work with the one generator, then I agree - why carry around the second generator.  This is particularly so given that one would normally run the fridge on propane since it is a much more efficient way to operate the fridge thereby reducing the electrical draw even further.

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Regarding the fridge, I’m new to having all this luxury as I camped out of tents and a slightly converted Utility trailer - no fridge.  So are you saying at a campground with electric you run the fridge on propane?  The fridge works better on gas that electric?

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2 hours ago, Naegele said:

Regarding the fridge, I’m new to having all this luxury as I camped out of tents and a slightly converted Utility trailer - no fridge.  So are you saying at a campground with electric you run the fridge on propane?  The fridge works better on gas that electric?

If you have electrical service at your campsite, feel free to run the fridge on 110, or auto. I suspect topgun was talking about running the fridge on 110, or even 12v , when running on generator. If you're on generator power, the best way to run your three way fridge is on gas. Then, the only electrical draw from the fridge is the board, and the electronic igniter,  saving power for the a/c , charging your battery, and other devices.

A three way generally cools down faster on gas. On electric, its a power hog. Imo, the 12v operation is a battery killer.

Sherry

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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When we had our three way fridge, even if we were home, I'd start up the fridge on gas, unless we had a lot of time before departure.  Adsorption fridges are designed to primarily run on gas. So, cooling always seemed faster, from 80 or 90 degrees in Florida.  Once it has acheivrd temperature,  electric 110 operation is maintenance., and fine.  

But, we almost never have electrical hookups, so take it for what it's worth. 

BTW, Which water heater do you have? Our old one ran on electricity or gas. We always ran on gas, (again, because we almost never have an electric hookup), but others enjoyed free electricity at campsites to provide hot water,  as well. If you camp often with hookups, by all means, use them.

Sherry 

 

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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