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I drained the water heater as part of the winterizing and put the aside anode. Now I am going out so how tight should I tighten the anode in the water heater. I have the socket for it and the socket wrench.

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I leave the anode out after I drain the water heater. Then plug the hole with a piece of cloth to keep critters out.  My thought is that there is still some water left in the bottom of the tank and leaving the anode in, it may continue to deteriorate. Just remember to put it back in before you set out. I also run the water first before putting the anode back in to flush out any stagnant water left in the tank.  My procedure only others will way in on there how to’s

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And, if you are continuing to camp, as your other pisr indicates,  please make sure that your water heater is set to OFF if your water heater is empty.

And, that the water heater is bypassed in the plumbing  valves 

Edited by SeaDawg
Typo

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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2 hours ago, Imelda said:

Now I am going out so how tight should I tighten the anode in the water heater

I think that you got the answer you needed relative to the trip you are about to take in the posts above.  But to specifically answer the question in the quote above - I don't know the exact "torque specs" for this.  However, I know that when I tighten mine it is really fair tight.  Make sure that you use several wraps of Teflon tape on the threads.  At delivery (or before I took the rod out the first time I put it there) there is a mark painted on the rod and a corresponding mark painted on the heater.  All I do is line these two marks up when I tighten and then observe for leaks around those threads.  If it leaks I'd give it another 1/4 turn until it stopped leaking.

Bill

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

. . . . . And, that the water heater is bypassed in the plumbing  valves 

We have not had to winterize yet; nor have we drained the water heater (standard Suburban heater) after bringing our new Oliver home in December.  The other day, I decided to look for the water heater bypass valve, in the event we should need to winterize.  If it resides in the same compartment as the other plumbing valves, I can't find it.  I see the four valves in the plumbing around the fresh water tank and pump, as pictured in the diagrams under the hatch.  I can also see red and blue Pex lines going to and from the water heater, but no sign of a valve to isolate the HWH from the water supply.  Does one of the aforementioned valves serve to bypass the hot water system?  I can't seem to wrap my head around that idea.

Then there's the fresh water drain valve way down in the bottom of the hull under the heater ducting. (what a convenient place; I wonder who came up with that?).  Are you supposed to be able to reach this through the access port just to the left of the furnace air intake?  If not, what is that access port intended for?

If someone could puh-leeze help me locate the HWH bypass, I'd be forever thankful.  Perhaps putting the water system valves in Winterize configuration takes care of bypassing the HWH? That would be simple 😀

 

Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020

2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCACOGAHIIDILKSLAMSMONENVNMOKORSCTNTX

States map oliver.jpg

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Susan, our bypass valve requires lifting the seat hatch.  I have a 2008. It's not easily visible,  but identifiable in the chart. Which, we have to look at every year, because we do it so infrequently. 

Our bypass is pretty much hidden under other plumbing runs, but it's there.  

Maybe next year, I'll tie a ribbon on ours.  

Good luck .

Sherry 

 

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12
 

 

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13 hours ago, SteveCr said:

Here is the winterization link....water heater bypass valve at about 1:00.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyVUNInNtUA&feature=emb_title

image.thumb.png.a09fc83f49fe17afa66ced32e20aaeb2.png

 

Thank you, greatly, for the photo . . . . when I open the access port the heater duct is between the port and the water heater (where the valve should be).  Do you push the heater duct down to reach the valve?  Or up?  I wish I would have asked this question during walkthrough; there are so many questions you don't know to ask until after you have used your Oliver for a bit.

Edit: watching the video, it seems the access port is mainly for recording the process!  It would be very hard to reach through the hole, while laying on the floor, to turn the valve!  And they make it look so easy to lift up the mattress to get to the hatch.  I'd love to hear how others have mastered the technique of opening the seat hatches while holding the KTT mattress up and out of the way?

Edited by Ray and Susan Huff

Ray and Susan Huff

Elite II Twin "Pearl" - Hull#699; delivered December 7, 2020

2013 F350 6.7l diesel Super Duty 4x4 long bed crew cab

2017 Leisure Travel Van Unity Twin Bed (sold)

AZARCACOGAHIIDILKSLAMSMONENVNMOKORSCTNTX

States map oliver.jpg

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A mattress can be tilted 90 degrees and pushed out toward the wall, that will give enough clearance to lift and pull out the access panel underneath it. My mattresses are 10 inches thick, and it works for them. It does help a LOT if the bed is not fully made up with sheets, blankets, bedspread, comforter and dog on top. I sleep in a cool weather bag with liner, there is just a fitted protective cover over the mattress.

Don’t be afraid to carefully shift an air duct out of the way, just do not abuse it or poke a hole in it.

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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