Starting a Lithium Upgrade

[Rivernerd]

ChrisMI and Galway Girl:

Thanks for the input.  You both raise excellent points.

Sound like the most sensible way to run the AC off batteries in a 2019 would be to plan to replace both the AC and the batteries at the same time, enabling the lower-amp-draw Houghton AC to run off of the Xantrex XC2000 inverter, with the Micro Air Easy Start and a transfer switch.  Since the AC is not connected to the inverter, I presume new wire must be run between the hulls from the transfer switch to the new AC unit?

[ChrisMI]

7 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

Since the AC is not connected to the inverter, I presume new wire must be run between the hulls from the transfer switch to the new AC unit?

You should be able to add the transfer switch very close to the 110 power distribution box, no need to run a new power wire between the hulls. I’m pretty sure you don’t need / can’t utilize the micro start on the newer AC units. 

[Geronimo John]

On 3/17/2022 at 1:44 PM, ChrisMI said:

 

 

Good idea.  I believe the 2019 A/C pulls 16 amps.  @ 120 volts thats 1920 watts.

How durable is the stock 2,000 watt inverter if one was to only power up the A/C against it?  

[Mike and Carol]

On 5/20/2021 at 12:52 AM, Ralph Mawyer said:

Oliver provided guidance on how to disable the 7pin, how to disable the Progressive on board converter and how to hook up the new inverter to existing circuits.

How does Oliver recommend disabling the 7pin?

[Ralph Mawyer]

Ping Craig, looks like I was quoting him. 

[Mike and Carol]

29 minutes ago, Ralph Mawyer said:

Ping Craig, looks like I was quoting him. 

Not sure who Craig is,  I’ll check with Jason.

[Galway Girl]

This is an excerpt from our  post on upgrading to Lithionics on hull 505.

Origin was from a discussion with Jason Essary in Oliver Service.

 

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/lithium-battery-upgrade

 

Step 7; 

Disable the 7 Pin Charge Line:

We will be installing a new DC/DC charger into our Oliver EII.  But before we do that install  we need to disable the current charging wire that runs from the 7 pin cable on the tongue of the Oliver.  That 7 pin connector is the one that plugs into the back of the truck for lights, brake lights, emergency brake power.

Inside the 7 pin cable there is a BLACK wire that provides 12V (B+ )  from the truck battery/alternator B+ all the way back through the trailer, through a 20A breaker and back to the batteries via the 12V Bus bar in the trailer.  

We will not be using that (Black) charge line for the trailer an longer.  

We disabled that line on the 7 pin connector by putting heat shrink coating over the screw terminal on the black B+ wire conductor and also taping up the screw lead the body.  We reassembled the conductor and tested that no 12V was present on the wires inside the trailer.

 

Wiring Digram for Oliver EII 7 Pin

 

To disable the Charge Wire (BLACK) from the 7 pin, remove the cover and disconnect the wire from the connector by taping up the wire and putting it back inside the cover.  Don't cut the wire in case you need to use it in the future.

 

7 Pin Connector from Trailer

 

Craig Short

Hull 505

[Mike and Carol]

Thanks, Craig. 

I’ll work on my screen name vs real name recall!  Mike

[Ronbrink]

On 3/20/2022 at 6:29 PM, Geronimo John said:

 

Good idea.  I believe the 2019 A/C pulls 16 amps.  @ 120 volts thats 1920 watts.

How durable is the stock 2,000 watt inverter if one was to only power up the A/C against it?  

Gj, did you ever get an answer to your question?

[Geronimo John]

On 8/3/2023 at 4:02 AM, Ronbrink said:

Gj, did you ever get an answer to your question?

Yes.  Basicallly my goal is to be able to use our 300 AH of Battleborns and our 3,000 watt inverter to power up the Houghton A/C.

Consensuss approach is to install a second power transfer switch next to the OEM.  This does require changing out the 20 amp wire that feeds from the existing breaker to the second power transfer switch.  Took about 6 hours to complete the job.

GJ

 

[Ronbrink]

2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Yes.  Basicallly my goal is to be able to use our 300 AH of Battleborns and our 3,000 watt inverter to power up the Houghton A/C.

Consensuss approach is to install a second power transfer switch next to the OEM.  This does require changing out the 20 amp power feed from the existing breaker to the second power transfer switch.  Took about 6 hours to complete the job.

GJ

 

Gj, thanks for your response. We both have the same goal, however I have yet to do an a/c swap; that will be my next big mod for sure. I currently have the Dometic 11,000 with soft start in my 2020. Can you provide the basic wiring configuration for the second transfer switch, or is that illustrated in the Kisae TS instructions? Again, thanks!

[Geronimo John]

Instructions have the info.  Basically the transfer switch comes with a super duty plug and that line plugs into the inverter.

You disconnet the 20 amp wire at the breaker that serves the ac and replace it with a longer wire that goes back from the rear dinette seat to the back of the rear bunk.  This line goes to the switch input labeled for the utility company supply.  

The other switch connection is used to reconnect the ac power supply.

I mounted my second switch aft of the OEM one under the street side bunk.  This required me to replace the super duty switch cord that was too short.  Some owners elect to mount the switch on the wheel well to avoid this.  Personally I like bolting the add on equipment through the fiber glass to a cutting board JB welded and bolted in place.  I use small SS fender washers and bolts and it does not detract from the appearance under the bed overhang.

GJ

[Ronbrink]

On 8/10/2023 at 9:03 AM, Geronimo John said:

Instructions have the info.  Basically the transfer switch comes with a super duty plug and that line plugs into the inverter.

You disconnet the 20 amp wire at the breaker that serves the ac and replace it with a longer wire that goes back from the rear dinette seat to the back of the rear bunk.  This line goes to the switch input labeled for the utility company supply.  

The other switch connection is used to reconnect the ac power supply.

I mounted my second switch aft of the OEM one under the street side bunk.  This required me to replace the super duty switch cord that was too short.  Some owners elect to mount the switch on the wheel well to avoid this.  Personally I like bolting the add on equipment through the fiber glass to a cutting board JB welded and bolted in place.  I use small SS fender washers and bolts and it does not detract from the appearance under the bed overhang.

GJ

Gj, great information, thanks for sharing. I too like to have add-ons maintain a factory- installed appearance