Greasing Dexter EZ flex suspension.

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, Steph and Dud B said:

Actually, the wet bolts are an upgrade.

Certainly TRUE!

All Oliver trailers built prior to 2017 or 2018 didn't have the EZ-Flex suspension and thus didn't have the wet bolts which have (I believe) brass bushings.  The old suspension did have those "nylon" bushings and were only good for something like 12,000 miles.  So, many of us that have the older Olivers switched to the "new" EZ-Flex when it became available or when the old bushings hit that 10,000 to 12,0000 mile mark.  Its much better to give those zerks a shot of grease every few thousand miles versus having to replace the bushings.

Bill

[rideandfly]

When I installed the EZ Flex system on our Ollie, the plastic bushings were destroyed after the original owner towed Ollie 6000 miles.
 

 The wet pins are an improvement, but agree, it could be a better system. Decided to find the easiest way to grease & maintain the EZ Flex system we have.

Here’s the Dexter spring wet pin and bronze bushing used in the EZ Flex system. The bronze bushing wall thickness is .07”, have to admit I damaged one or two 😬during installation because bronze is much softer than steel. Glad I purchased extra bronze bushings. Helped a friend install wet pins and bronze bushings on his Legacy Elite. 

 

 

[Boudicca908]

I paid a service center to grease my Zerks (and do other maintenance) early this year, in preparation for my current trip, but I'm confident that I can accomplish this task myself and I'll be able to do it in a timely fashion -- in fact, I bet it will take less of my time than driving to a random service center (and waiting). 

[topgun2]

11 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:

I bet it will take less of my time than driving to a random service center (and waiting). 

I'm certainly NOT taking that bet.

I spend more time collecting the tools and prepping for the job than actually doing the job.  While the zerk caps help a bunch, I still spend a fair amount of time cleaning off the old grease - bring plenty of paper towels/rags to the job.

Bill

[John and Debbie]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

I'm certainly NOT taking that bet.

I spend more time collecting the tools and prepping for the job than actually doing the job.  While the zerk caps help a bunch, I still spend a fair amount of time cleaning off the old grease - bring plenty of paper towels/rags to the job.

Bill

Bill, I have a late 2022, hull #1290.  We are going back to Hohenwald in October from Oregon for annual service.  We have about 4000 miles max on the trailer since getting it new.  It has the EZ flex axles so I assume I  am ok.  We will have about 7000 miles on it when we get to Tennessee.  Any advice on whether we should put grease into the zirc fittings and if so, what kind?  TIA, John 

[Rivernerd]

40 minutes ago, John Welte said:

Any advice on whether we should put grease into the zirc fittings and if so, what kind? 

After 4K miles, I would use Mystik bearing grease (the same stuff Oliver uses), before you leave home.  You will need to either buy your own grease gun and follow the instructions in this thread, or pay a service center to do it (maybe Les Schwab?).  It is too far from Portland to Hohenwald to just rely on Oliver's Service Department to keep your suspension maintained.

[topgun2]

39 minutes ago, John Welte said:

Any advice on whether we should put grease into the zirc fittings and if so, what kind?  TIA, John 

I'd give them a shot of grease - the recommended interval for those is 3 to 5 thousand miles.

As far as type of grease - that is covered on page two of this thread.

Bill

[Boudicca908]

1 hour ago, Rivernerd said:

follow the instructions in this thread

@John Welte there is a great deal of information just above; I tacked on questions to a previous thread, to get more specific information on the grease type and tools and I've ordered mine.

I appreciate the gentle warning on time required to 'do the job' @topgun2 . I started cleaning them yesterday. 

[MAX Burner]

On 8/24/2023 at 7:11 AM, topgun2 said:

I bet it will take less of my time than driving to a random service center (and waiting). 

When younger and working, "estimated time" needed for a potential project always seemed to creep into the equation.  But now, my "time factor" is different, I don't really care/stress how long it takes for a project, especially an Ollie one - just want it done right the first time.  That's the goal at least.  

The peace of mind achieved by a correctly executed DIY OTT project is worth so much more than having to pay someone else do it for us, IMO.  This is the case for major systems maintenance and upgrades efforts, such as running gear, AC/DC electrical, solar, plumbing systems, etc., as well as for the smaller upgrades.

Having this peace of mind gives us a higher level of confidence in our trailer when out on the open road or boondocking in an isolated US FS camping area, knowing exactly  the status of these key systems, because we did the work.

More to the point of the thread, maintaining the proper condition of wheel bearings and Dexter EZ flex suspension components at the recommended service intervals is part of the Oliver owner experience for us...  Yeah, it takes longer for us to complete the servicing of these important parts than taking the rig to Les Schwab's, but we also get to fix and clean-up a lot of ancillary items that LS will not consider attending to.  

Pride of ownership, perhaps.

...we just like doing the projects!

 

 

Edited August 25, 2023 by MAX Burner
grammatical fixes...

[Boudicca908]

Today is my Zerk Greasing Day! 

I'm taking a lunch break after finishing half (the easy half) -- 1.5 hr so far, but that includes reading instructions on the grease gun... Thought I'd read through this thread again and post some comments and questions. 

On 4/22/2021 at 12:12 PM, Ken_Judy said:

You Tube to the rescue.

Be aware that the video at top of this thread states "14 total" but Oliver YouTube video shows "16 total" for the Elite 2, because there are actually 2 fittings in the middle top on each side. I'm inserting a screenshot from Jason's video here with the diagram (Thank you Jason! These videos are so helpful): photo attached 

In the SOB video at top of thread, the guy is stopping just as the grease begins to come out of the fitting. Sometimes it's only coming out on one side.  

QUESTION 1: Is that enough? I thought (from watching Jason's video) that the idea was to see clean grease come out on both ends of each fitting -- or is that overkill?  photo attached 

I'm probably wasting grease, but wasn't sure about this. 

I do have one (so far) that resists accepting grease. I'm going to try to take some weight off that side as suggested in the thread, and hopefully that will resolve. 

QUESTION 2: When I went through the process of cleaning all the zerks before beginning, I found one of them LOOSE this morning. It could be turned easily in hand. None of the others seem loose. When I look at the photo, it looks like it's been gripped with something (not the right tool) -- do I need to try to replace this fitting?  Or is it okay just to tighten it down? photo attached 

QUESTION 3: Also while cleaning and sticking my head under there, I noticed that these .... rubber fittings .... (not sure what to call them) look really DRIED OUT. What are they called, and should I be worried about them? I do have between 3,000 and 4,000 miles before I reach OTT for a service appointment.  photo attached 

Many thanks to all the great forum participants helping out here! 

EDIT : UPDATE 

For the 2 center top fittings, I switched to the LockNLube 90 degree Adapter -- that helped for 3 of them but the 4th was easier with the original hose coupler. 

QUESTION 4: (Related to Question 1 above) In Jason's video it shows quite a bit of grease coming out those central fittings; is that necessary?  I had some but not nearly as much coming out. Do I need to add more? see screenshot of Jason's video here:  

And finally, I took weight off the streetside and that cured my one resistant fitting, and it took grease.

The loose fitting was tightened by hand and it also took grease and seems fine. 

Assuming I'm okay on the amount of grease that I applied (questions 1 & 4 above) I'm done.

My total job time was around 4 hours including cleaning off the dirty fittings, re-watching Jason's video, and reading the manual on using the grease gun. Well worth the time and tools. 

Thanks to everyone. 

 

[topgun2]

Just tighten down that loose zerk - if it still accepts grease, there is no need to replace it.  However, hopefully the threads are not stripped.  If they are stripped then you hopefully you have the taps and dies necessary to fix this.

Bill

p.s.  the dried out rubber on the shocks has been discussed here on the Forum before.  I would not think yours are a issue before you get to the Mothership.  Once there you can ask Service about them but I'd guess that they will not replace them.

[Boudicca908]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

However, hopefully the threads are not stripped.  If they are stripped then you hopefully you have the taps and dies necessary to fix this.

I'll report back on the loose zerk after the second batch is done. I think I can tighten it down (it responded to hand tightening but I want to put a tool on it for a bit more comfort). I don't have tap and die on hand. It would likely mean a hiccup in the current plan to leave here on Monday (holiday). 

UPDATE IS ABOVE IN MY PREVIOUS LONGER POST. 

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, Boudicca908 said:

I had some but not nearly as much coming out. Do I need to add more?

You look good to go to me.  The only argument for more grease coming out is that it "helps" flush out any old stale dirty grease that may be in there.   

[John and Debbie]

On 8/23/2023 at 8:40 AM, Boudicca908 said:

Thank you all — order will be placed today. I’m looking forward to doing this. 

I got the Locknlube gun and 90° angle piece.  I removed the screw on part to inspect it after doing one zerc that oozed a bit of grease at the connection point of the gun tip and the zerc.  Don't do that.  It removed a little washer like piece that's needed to hold onto the zerc that is in that connection area of the 90° piece.  I didn't realize that it held that small piece and the 90° piece is useless without that small part.  Yes, I ordered another one for $21.  Did you remove the wheels or are you planning to remove them to get to the two fittings that are at the top of the Dexter assembly?  Something about crawling under trailer while on stands makes me a bit nervous.

John

[Rivernerd]

16 hours ago, John Welte said:

Something about crawling under trailer while on stands makes me a bit nervous.

Ensure you have at least two jack stands rated for at least 3 tons (6000 lbs.) each.  

Leave your front stabilizer jack down, so your trailer starts out level.  Chock the wheels on one side, then raise the other side using the "stabilizer" jacks, with blocks underneath them, to raise one side of the frame enough to get the wheels off the ground.  Place jack stands under the frame just fore and aft of the wheels, at the locations with the "Jack Point" decals. Then remove the wheels.

With only one side resting on jack stands rated to support a total of 12,000 lbs. between them, backed up by the stabilizer jack on that side, you will be safe crawling under the trailer.

[MAX Burner]

3 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

Chock the wheels on one side, then raise the other side using the "stabilizer" jacks, with blocks underneath them, to raise one side of the frame enough to get the wheels off the ground. 

Sometimes it makes it easier to "crack" the torqued wheel nuts before raising that side - or Xchock those wheels after they're raised to loosen the nuts...

[John and Debbie]

32 minutes ago, MAX Burner said:

Sometimes it makes it easier to "crack" the torqued wheel nuts before raising that side - or Xchock those wheels after they're raised to loosen the nuts...

Speaking of those lug nuts, are they made of one metal only?  I replaced all my lug nuts on my Ford Expedition since they swelled.  They are made of two metals.  It seems crazy to make lug nuts that way, but if Oliver also uses those types of lug nuts (for appearance, I assume), I would rather have all stainless steel lug nuts.  Swollen lug nuts are just that, they're near impossible to remove.  I know this is off topic.

John 

[Boudicca908]

18 hours ago, John Welte said:

Did you remove the wheels or are you planning to remove them to get to the two fittings that are at the top of the Dexter assembly?  Something about crawling under trailer while on stands makes me a bit nervous.

I did not remove the wheels, and I only stuck my head under as far as necessary to get a look — watching Jason’s video gives you great views of the central zerks. 
 

The other tool that is VERY handy is a small mirror on a swivel stick — I bought one at the Tractor Supply in the sale bin for $3. I used it to check the new grease after pumping. I did the central ones last, and by that time I had a good sense for what it felt like for the gun tip to be engaged with the zerk — so I did it blindly. 

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, John Welte said:

Speaking of those lug nuts, are they made of one metal only?  I replaced all my lug nuts on my Ford Expedition since they swelled.  They are made of two metals.  It seems crazy to make lug nuts that way, but if Oliver also uses those types of lug nuts (for appearance, I assume), I would rather have all stainless steel lug nuts.  Swollen lug nuts are just that, they're near impossible to remove.  I know this is off topic.

John - 

There is a thread on this subject of lug nuts .  

In the final analysis it all winds up HERE.

Bill

[John and Debbie]

2 hours ago, topgun2 said:

John - 

There is a thread on this subject of lug nuts .  

In the final analysis it all winds up HERE.

Bill

Thanks Bill.  Did you swap yours out?  We go in for service on October 30 so if it's advised, I may just get 24 stainless steel ones like you referenced for them to put the wheels back on the trailer.

John

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, John Welte said:

Did you swap yours out?  We go in for service on October 30 so if it's advised, I may just get 24 stainless steel ones like you referenced for them to put the wheels back on the trailer.

No, but, I'm presently seriously considering it.

ScubaRx found the ones referenced by me and they are solid stainless.

Bill

[John and Debbie]

1 hour ago, topgun2 said:

No, but, I'm presently seriously considering it.

ScubaRx found the ones referenced by me and they are solid stainless.

Bill

I put in a service ticket to see if my wheels are aluminum on hull 1290 (I think they are), whether my lug nuts are aluminum clad (I think they are) and lastly if they know of what company to get stainless steel bulged acorn style lug nuts from for what I assume are aluminum wheels.  I don't think the lug nuts that ScubaRx found are bulged acorn type.

John

[John E Davies]

This is way too much grease.

 

Usually there will be more at one side of the bushing than on the other, but once you see any on that second side, stop. Somebody anal will wipe all that grease off anyway with rags. The more you apply, the more you have to wipe off, if you decide to…  The oil separates from the waxy carrier and dribbles all over. It doesn’t hurt the steel parts, other than looking messy, but the rubber cushions of the EZ Flex should not stay oil soaked.

Bravo for doing this yourself!

It is important to also INSPECT everything while you are greasing. This means going underneath. That lets you find a problem early, for example a blown shock or cracked spring, or worn bushings from lack of grease, or impact damage from a big rock, before it turns into a major headache at the side of some remote highway. You should also check all the hardware for tightness periodically. With a brand new trailer you will definitely find loose u-bolt nuts, and possibly a few loose  suspension ones. And the jack hardware always seems to get loose!

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[MAX Burner]

22 hours ago, John E Davies said:

And the jack hardware always seems to get loose!

@Ken_Judy:  John is spot-on regarding "loosening of ancillary running gear nuts."  

We recently serviced our zerks and decided to also perform preventive maintenance on the 3 jacks - only to find that the curbside rear jack head set-screw had loosened over time and the entire motor/head assembly rotated clockwise.  Had we not found this condition before it progressed into something really serious, it could have been a major safety accident.

Getting your eyes up/around/inside/down everywhere on the Ollie periodically really pays off.  Just perform your inspections with good planning and forethought while doing it safely at the same time.

My $0.02...  Cheers!

[dewdev]

Rivernerd:

Good description.

But, only the newer Olivers have  the "Jack Point" decals!