Fuse #F52 Zamp Ext Solar Plug

[Kraig]

2022 Elite II - Lithium Pro Package - Newbie Alert!

I purchased a 230W portable Zamp Solar suitcase when I picked up the trailer. When I plug it in and the sun is shining it is blowing fuse #F52. It's a 10 amp. I noticed the solar power cord has a 15 amp in line fuse.

It's done it twice now. I searched the forums and either did not see, or I am not using the correct search phrases to find a similar problem. I did see where the ground wire had been left off of a couple of peoples trailers, mine is attached. Nothing is loose on the ground bus bar. No visible wiring issues that I can see. 

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

[topgun2]

Well, that 230 watt panel can potentially generate up to about 12.6 amps depending on the amount of volts it is putting out.  Perhaps that explains why that 10 amp fuse is blowing.🙄

[John E Davies]

The purpose of a fuse is to blow from too much current and to protect the receptacle and the trailer wires from burning up, you are overloading the circuit! You have three options.

Stop using that large panel immediately, replace it with one that is about 150 watts or less. Or

Use the suppled alligator clips and connect the panel output wires directly to your batteries. This assumes that your suitcase includes a charge controller! Some do not - never connect unregulated solar panels to your batteries! Or

Rewire the trailer connection with a suitable (higher amperage) socket, 20 amp fuse and larger (heavier gauge) wires.

Be safe, please do not set fire to your trailer!

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

[Kraig]

Thank you John and Topgun2!

I know better than to put a larger fuse in and see what happens. I felt like there might be a setting or something that I was missing.  And if I am looking at the owners manual right, the regular solar panels on top are on a 40 amp fuse. I just cant wrap my head around the 10 amps. 

I purchased the suitcase from Oliver to avoid any confusion with me buying the wrong suitcase or something not compatible with the Oliver TT and their wiring system. I mean, why would they sell me something that would burn the trailer down right?  Anyway, I'm fixing to send an email to them to see if they even know this is an issue. They told me the 230W was their most popular seller!!

Thanks again. 

[John E Davies]

I suggest that you open a service ticket.

It is possible that an incorrect fuse was installed in your trailer, that is something to verify. Oliver could have changed how they wire this circuit - the older trailers for sure were 10 amps max. My Furion (round) receptacle itself has a 10 amp limit as per the manufacturer. If Oliver installed an appropriate heavier socket and bigger wires, then the 10 amp fuse might be a simple production line mistake (this is not uncommon). If they tell you to put a 15 amp one in there, I would believe them.

One big problem is that for the last three model years Oliver has stopped supplying detailed electrical diagrams. So we really have no clue what is going into these trailers, in terms of wire size and how they are routed through the trailer. You could complain bitterly about that, if enough buyers complain, maybe we will get back those very useful diagrams.

Good luck, please post a followup.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[Kraig]

I have started the ticket and will definitely keep the thread updated with what I am told. 

 

Thanks again!

[Kraig]

Ok, heard back from Jason. They were supposed to put a 20 amp fuse there. So, F52 should be 20amp. Jason is looking into it to make sure this was just a one time thing or if during manufacturing they are putting to small a fuse in all of them. Jason was quick to respond!

Thank you all for your help!

 

 

[Minnesota Oli]

I thought I would mention I ran into the same problem when I hooked up my Zamp 230 watt portable panel. It is rated at 12.6 amps and I blew the 10 amp fuse so I checked wire size and length and found that I could switch to a 15 amp fuse. I thought that would do it but no It showed I was still not connected to the battery. Checked the fuse and it was not blown, a real head scratcher. It ended up having two inline fuses installed on the positive wire between the battery and the side solar port. I changed that 10 amp fuse to a 15 amp and I was good to go. My Oliver is a 2019 so I don't Know if yours is wired the same way or not but I thought I would share.

[Galway Girl]

Minnesota Oli : Our 2019 (Hull 505) also has a 10Amp fuse installed.  Thanks for the heads up.

[Boudicca908]

I need to search and find that long list someone made of things to "look for and check on" at pick up... this needs to be added to the list!  Ground wires missing? I wish I were more savvy with electrical. The wiring diagrams are definitely needed for the owners. I'll ask my sales rep and make the suggestion to them. More Thanks for the heads up. 

[mossemi]

The original post is the first reference I have ever seen to fuse F52.  Where is the fuse located and is it specific to the Xantrex Freedom XC 2000/3000 inverter/charger installations?

Mossey

[Geronimo John]

On 2/28/2022 at 10:32 AM, Kraig said:

Ok, heard back from Jason. They were supposed to put a 20 amp fuse there. So, F52 should be 20amp. Jason is looking into it to make sure this was just a one time thing or if during manufacturing they are putting to small a fuse in all of them. Jason was quick to respond!

The ZAMP Solar Sidewall Port that I purchased has #10 AWG wires.  The port itself according to ZAMP is limited to 20 amps max.  Hence, I would bet that Jason is spot on.

[SeaDawg]

16 hours ago, mossemi said:

The original post is the first reference I have ever seen to fuse F52.  Where is the fuse located and is it specific to the Xantrex Freedom XC 2000/3000 inverter/charger installations?

Mossey

I read that as the inline fuse from the solar port to the battery, as a fuse is the only thing in between... in our original install.

But that was an assumption.  You know that old assu#me thing.... 😒

 

[Minnesota Oli]

2 hours ago, mossemi said:

The original post is the first reference I have ever seen to fuse F52.  Where is the fuse located and is it specific to the Xantrex Freedom XC 2000/3000 inverter/charger installations?

Mossey

On my Oliver there are two inline fuses, one just inside the wall  where the wire comes in from side wall solar port and if you follow that wire as it heads to the battery compartment, there is a second inline fuse just below the battery compartment. Why mine end up having two I don't know.

[ScottyGS]

Apologies in advance for taking this in a slightly different direction.   My thoughts are:  If you have the 630 ah package a solar suitcase would be a very good addition to have. 

Math without additional solar would be:   

630ah of batteries X 12v = 7560 watt hours X 90% = 6804 usable watt hours.      Divided by 340 watts of Solar.        6804 / 340 = 20.01 Hours to recharge from 10% to full.  Or roughly TEN hours to charge from 10% to 55%   OR   45% to 90%.     

Add a 230 watt suitcase and charging from 10% to  full could be done in one long sunny summer day.  

I realize a LOT of other factors go into this but would appreciate a sanity / reality check on this as to the assumptions / math / etc.    I have been used to our AGM's topping off by 10 am or so.  Just want to be ready for what the expectations performance wise will be with 630ah of Lithium. 

Thanks in advance to those that don't view electricity as a form of witchcraft. 

Scotty 

 

[John E Davies]

11 hours ago, Minnesota Oli said:

Why mine end up having two I don't know.

So that is where mine went! 🤨Hull 218 had no fuse at all….

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Guest]

I am hoping to use 4x200 watt panels in parallel. I am still trying to figure it out, but I believe I will have an inline fuse on each cable then a 4 to 1 connector (with another fuse?) running into a Victron Smartsolar MPPT 150/70 mounted in a Pelican type box. Coming out from the MPPT, another fuse (40 amp?) and the to the battery. Like I mentioned, I am still trying to figure out the details and how to accomplish this safely, but I definitely want a lot more solar. The output would be 800 watts and under 40 amps for the 12V battery bank. That MPPT can handle up to 1000 watts for a 12V battery bank, so I should be able to and another 200 watt panel, if I needed or wanted to. I could not find a smaller quality MPPT charge controller that could handle that many watts running into the battery bank. The Lithionic batteries can handle 150 to 200 amps charging. 

[Guest]

Sorry  for the drift, I was responding to Scottt's comment. We are getting the 630 amp batteries also. Try to keep them charged off grid in a variety of settings. If our system can take it, we would add I couple of higher wattage appliances.

Kirk