Solar awning?

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Ollie is 7' wide with two puff up/downs along the width of the roof.  As such, dimensionally they will easily fit on our roof running starboard and port (S/P) direction with room to spare... GJ

Really, you're thinking 80" wide? It seems like mine stick out enough sideways at 52" wide. And BTW, if you're thinking 3 panels, it almost doesn't matter at 78x80" total, but 3 panels would install easier sideways.

Yeah, the OE2 is 7 FT wide, but not at the roof and then the very top it is much narrower. I would go with 2 mounted lengthwise, if it were me. The antenna is an easy move, though you would likely have to run the coax on the roof for a foot +/-. You would seal that opening and the newly installed panels would then cover the current opening.

I'm working and more day out there today (just finished the sanitize process). I'm going to take some more measurements for you, like how much length between the bathroom fan and the MaxFAN. More later...

[jd1923]

@SeaDawg and @Geronimo John,
Got back up there today, took more pics and measurements...

End-to-end there is 84" between two hard constraints, the bathroom plumbing vent and the MaxxFAN. The picture showing the tape measure starts at the rear solar panel mount. You can see from the picture I posted yesterday that there is another 2-3" behind that rear mount to the MaxxFAN. So approx. 84" total front-to-back, where an 80" panel can fit nicely. And two of these, running front to back, could hardly be seen from below! That would be nice, clean and mount nicely. I would mount mine with 3M VHB tape ONLY, no need to screw into the fiberglass (you would only need to drill two 1/4" holes for the solar charge leads. I read here where some members would not put solar up top to detract from the beauty of the Oliver. Two of these lengthwise could hardly be seen, but if you mount 3 panels, wow we're seeing it, just sell the generator!

Personally, I would move the TV antenna, and in my previous post I suggested one method. I'm adding a TV antenna soon, and I plan to mount mine at the rear, drill ONLY a 1/4" hole into the roof, straight down to the attic (with only a little dab of Dicor self-leveling sealant you're good). You're there with a straight short cable, not 30+ FT of multiple coax cables and connectors that OTT uses.

From what I could see, while up there on the ladder, at 80" wide your panels would hang over the awning(s) and be as wide as my awning, left and right (sorry, not good with the starboard stuff!). Think another 11" each side when looking at mine. Hopefully my measurements and pics will help your plan. Best to you and stay warm somehow! Sheesh

I cannot fathom how people install stuff today! Look at my Winegard below. I would have used NO screws, no bracket wings and NO Dicor! The coax only needs a 1/4" hole and VHB to housing to clean fiberglass. It ain't going nowhere, I promise!

[Geronimo John]

Chris or John:

That would be very much appreciated. 

Apparently they are very flexible.  However at this point I do not know if they are flexible on L and W, or just in  the L direction.  So until the supplier answers my questions sent, I can only ponder installing them in the S to P direction and not the F to A manner as that would require the second direction of flex.  But if they turn out to be flexible in the both directions, then getting two of them up there running F to A could be a great solution.   

So, in addition to knowing if the 80" length will fit between the existing Max fan to the bath fan and vent, also knowing the Up/Down measurement would be helpful.  Sure wish I could beam over and tag the measurement between the two awnings below while following the roof terrain.....

I could accept having the panels run from the back side of the OEM awning over over to the street side so long as they stopped before reaching where a second awning is normally mounted.  Further than that becomes a visual concern, at least for me.

Thanks for your help!

GJ

[jd1923]

1 minute ago, Geronimo John said:

Chris or John: That would be very much appreciated... GJ

@Geronimo John, I was writing as you were! See my previous post. JD

[Geronimo John]

Looks like my response got to you slower than yours back! 

Working off your response and ignoring mine.

20 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I would mount mine with 3M VHB tape

I would prefer taped down, but.... first: 

 They have two mounting options.  Tape and bolted.  When they respond to my first questions, I'll ask them if they are using 3M tape, and if so which version.  After all,  all things wear out and a replacement method is essential.  One of my first set of questions asked was if removing the taped down ones will damage the gel coat.  My concern with VHB is it is a bear to remove.  Likely not only damaging the gel coat, but likely the fiberglass below.  That is my motive for knowing ahead of time how to replace them on OUR trailers.

24 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I read here where some members would not put solar up top to detract from the beauty of the Oliver. Two of these lengthwise could hardly be seen, but if you mount 3 panels, wow we're seeing it, just sell the generator!

OMG, you caught the fever.  EXACTLY my motivation in this thread.   🙂

26 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I would move the TV antenna,

Not a difficult to do effort for our TV antenna, but your is a bunch larger.  One of the advantages of these panels is that they can be penetrated and you only lose a bit of capacity.  For my "Flying Saucer" TV antenna, I would look into cutting a hole for it to stay where it is.  Just lay the panel around/under? it.

In summary, likely we are looking at two of their 200 watt panels run front to back (Fore to Aft for the boaters).  Virtually no visual impact and no aerodynamic impact as well.  My two reasons, previously stated for not getting the OTT style Solar System.  

OTT:  I hope you are keeping this thread in mind for a significant upgrade for 2025!  

Regardless we have a good start on this concept.  Will give the supplier some time to digest my questions.

thank you again!

GJ

 

[jd1923]

So you got 80", fore to aft, longer and narrower than what we have (yes OTT could offer this). Keep us posted after you thaw out up there!

Re VHB tape, I use it on bracketed models, anything and everything. It does not work well with textured surfaces but will bond to anything clean and flat. 

The picture below is the solar install I added on our Bigfoot Class-C. (BTW, every white-colored accessory in this picture was installed by me. I was not up on VHB when I install the Dish, so that item is screwed and Dicor'd.) I used two sets of solar mounts per panel to be safe (2 sets, 8 standard Renogy brackets) to install these extremely heavy panels: Pro 200W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panels w/ 9BusBar Technology -Newpowa

Zoom in on the mounting brackets in the pics, no screws, the brackets just sit on VHB tape! You could not budge them. The Bigfoot also has a fiberglass roof. Screws in fiberglass are an issue long-term, 3m VHB will outlast a screw mount.

[Geronimo John]

Nice installs. 

Owners:  Do you have any experience with damage potential to the hull for a removal of a wide bands of VHB tape secured equipment?  

GJ

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

Do you have any experience with damage potential to the hull for a removal of a wide bands of VHB tape secured equipment?  GJ

Not "wide bands" and you do not need much. The installation above, each panel had eight 1x3" 3M VHB 4950. BTW, I like this model for many things, but there may be better versions over 4950, they have so many.

I have removed some on several kinds of surfaces. I start with an old soft putty knife with rounded corners, to break the seal and get the bulk off (you don't get too far with plastic scrapers). Then let a little Goo-b-gone soak in.

Real damage would come from 8 min or 12-16 screw holes per panel and all the Dicor crud to remove. I've seen YouTube videos where the use VHB tape and then put "Dicor over the brackets to be safe." There is a difference between being safe and just being stupid. 

[SeaDawg]

We've removed vhb tape from gelcoat, without damage, carefully, and chemically, after careful mechanical separation.

It's a real pita. But, can be done.

I totally disagree with the folks who mounted to nonskid only. Poor bonding on rough surface, and much more difficult to remove anything from bumpy nonskid than smooth gelcoat .

Gelcoat under panels will, indeed, get some additional heat. But, even if you get a few chips removing, it's easily repaired, and would be hidden by next gen install.

We'll be looking at this on a large scale in some year,,as flex panels on boat's hard (fiberglass) bimini will have to be replaced.  I am not happy about it, but I totally think doable. We fastened with vhb tape, so removable,  with proper care.

 

[Ty J]

Well. They won't be easy to remove. Time will tell on these. Here's 300 watts. I taped all corners after these pictures with light eternabond.

[Geronimo John]

On 4/1/2024 at 6:08 PM, Ty J said:

Here's 300 watts.

You all have convinced me of the 3M VHB mounting approach.  I really don't want any more holes in Ollie if possible.  If required, small is best.

My trailer is supposed to be pre-wired for solar.  Is there any documentation as to what and where the connection points are?

If not how did you bring the solar panel wiring into Ollie?  

GJ

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

You all have convinced me of the 3M VHB mounting approach.  I really don't want any more holes in Ollie if possible.  If required, small is best.

My trailer is supposed to be pre-wired for solar.  Is there any documentation as to what and where the connection points are?

If not how did you bring the solar panel wiring into Ollie?  

GJ

I wonder what that means, pre-wired? For "pre-wired" to be viable you would have to have a roof mounted junction box. Do you?

How would you add solar if not? Not easily! How would you run cables from the roof to a solar charger in near proximity to the battery bay?

I took another picture for you, Gj. The only way an Oliver is truly pre-wired is if you have a junction box, like is what's pictured on ours.

[mountainoliver]

When we purchased our trailer in 2017 Oliver was just changing solar equipment brands. They changed from Blue Sky equipment to Zamp equipment. I didn’t know much about solar power at the time so defaulted to not getting solar. ScubaRx schooled me about the Blue Sky vs. Zamp architecture and I choose to add Blue Sky solar. The trailer (at least at that time) was “pre wired for solar.”  The roof did not include the combiner box but the #6 cable was in place and a battery temperature sensor was in place as well. ScubaRx and I had to run the 4-0 welding cable as needed and other #6 cables in the basement as needed along with the main switch and circuit breakers, shunt, etc. I had the Oliver folks mount the panels and do the interconnections. Technically, the total system was not completely wired, just the hard to access cable was in place. The trailers are not turn key wired by any means, you will have to do the majority of the wiring yourself along with all of the system component installation. 

[jd1923]

13 minutes ago, mountainoliver said:

The roof did not include the combiner box but the #6 cable was in place and a battery temperature sensor was in place as well...

@Geronimo John will certainly need to talk to OTT service. When I read pre-wired, I assumed only to the roof and that you would have to wire a solar controller, etc. So, did you just drill a hole into the roof at a measured location and the #6 cable was there as promised? That takes nerve!

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

@Geronimo John will certainly need to talk to OTT service. When I read pre-wired, I assumed only to the roof and that you would have to wire a solar controller, etc. So, did you just drill a hole into the roof at a measured location and the #6 cable was there as promised? That takes nerve!

???  At this point I am just trying to get my arms around how to connect future solar lay flat panels and the challenges that it will bring.

The other one is the heat issue.  In the "Good Ole Days" we would just lay down an asbestos blanket and problem solved.  Sure wish I could find some of that in an old warehouse shelf.  Handled with knowledge and safety equipment, it is no where near the hazard many people assume.  And I am not aware of any replacement that even comes close to it's heat stopping abilities.

GJ

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

the #6 cable was in place

 

2 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

the total system was not completely wired, just the hard to access cable was in place. The trailers are not turn key wired by any means, you will have to do the majority of the wiring yourself along with all of the system component installation. 

Both of your above statements jive with what I understood from my Ollie pick up in 2018.  

Can you enlighten me on WHERE the #6 cable(s) are located below the roof?  That is the key info I am seeking. 

Thank you so very much.  

[ScubaRx]

On 4/2/2023 at 2:38 PM, SeaDawg said:

Novel idea. Create shade, and use the sun to create power. Wonder how well it will hold up? 

https://www.rvnews.com/xponent-power-partners-to-produce-solar-awning/

Considering that they created their website in 2021, haven't updated it since and weren't even planning to make this product available until Q3, 2024, I'd say not too good, if at all.

[ScubaRx]

2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Can you enlighten me on WHERE the #6 cable(s) are located below the roof?  That is the key info I am seeking. 

Thank you so very much.  

As early as April, 2015 they were molding wire chases into the upper inside hull to run the wiring down between the hulls to the rear attic space. I shot these photos on 04-29-2015.

The above shot shows the rear of the hull. The upper attic door will be cut here.

This photo shows where the wires would go through the outer hull and into the wiring chase toward the front of the trailer

This photo shows where the wire chase starts.

This photo is looking from the front towards the rear of the trailer.

I don't know if these will help. At one time there were some little dimples in the top of the outer hull to show where that wire chase terminated. X marked the spot on the inner hull in photos #2 and #3.

 

 

 

 

 

[mountainoliver]

I don’t remember that there were any wires pre installed in the ceiling but know that there were #6 cables and the temperature sensor wire running from the basement area just aft of the pantry up the wall between the window and pantry, into the open area where the radio is located. Oliver service connected to the #6 cables near the radio and ran those back to the attic area up between the roof panels and to the location where they mounted the combiner box. 

[mountainoliver]

As far as mounting the panels, the combiner box and, the interconnect wiring…. I paid Oliver service to do that. I bought the Zamp panels from Oliver and since they know exactly where the aluminum plates are located in the outer roof, they mounted the panels as well. All other wiring and solar controls ScubaRx and I installed. I had to look the other way and bite down on a broken arrow when the first hole was drilled into my new camper but have since gotten over that trauma. 

[Mike and Carol]

4 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

I had to look the other way and bite down on a broken arrow when the first hole was drilled into my new camper but have since gotten over that trauma. 

It’s a rite of passage for a lot of owners!

[CRM]

Something to think about before mounting flexible solar panels on your roof. I've seen the same results when permanently mounted on fiberglass boats.

Don’t Mount Flexible Panels Directly to Your Roof

[mountainoliver]

4 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

t’s a rite of passage for a lot of owners!

It is and thankfully Steve provided counseling to help me through it all! 🤪

[ScubaRx]

4 minutes ago, mountainoliver said:

It is and thankfully Steve provided counseling to help me through it all! 🤪

You're overdue for your followup exam. See you at the Rally..

[mountainoliver]

I don’t know Steve, I don’t really like the term “exam”! That has all sorts of implications that involves sharp instruments etc. 😲