Question about adding external solar to new Lithium Platinum package using the Victron SmartSolar 100/50

[Galway Girl]

4 hours ago, Ollie-Haus said:

solar/lithium system on my truck for the portable cooler

@Ollie-Haus

Here's our install blog on that very set of topics.
 
I installed the batteries and a Redarc DC/DC Converter in the bed of the truck for that ARB Fridge Battery.  (I also put a DC/DC converter in the Oliver as well to feed the 630AH Lithionics Pair.

Here's two describing the install of  Batteries and Redarc DC/DC converter for fridge and some added things for longer stays.
The Redarc can serve as your solar controller as well as the charger while driving.

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/power-for-the-arb-fridge

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/truck-modifications-for-long-trips

This post is on the upgrade to dual Lithionics 315gtx and the Victron DC/DC charger inside the Oliver to charge Lithionics while towing.

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/lithium-battery-upgrade

Cheers:

Craig

Hull 505 - Galway Girl

 

[Ollie-Haus]

6 hours ago, Galway Girl said:

@Ollie-Haus

Here's our install blog on that very set of topics.
 
I installed the batteries and a Redarc DC/DC Converter in the bed of the truck for that ARB Fridge Battery.  (I also put a DC/DC converter in the Oliver as well to feed the 630AH Lithionics Pair.

Here's two describing the install of  Batteries and Redarc DC/DC converter for fridge and some added things for longer stays.
The Redarc can serve as your solar controller as well as the charger while driving.

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/power-for-the-arb-fridge

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/truck-modifications-for-long-trips

This post is on the upgrade to dual Lithionics 315gtx and the Victron DC/DC charger inside the Oliver to charge Lithionics while towing.

https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/lithium-battery-upgrade

Cheers:

Craig

Hull 505 - Galway Girl

 

That's awesome. Thanks for sharing. My plan is still in a state of flux. With time I'll better know what our needs are and come up with a well thought out method that's sort of in budget I hope. 

[ChrisMI]

On 4/19/2023 at 9:20 PM, Brian and Brandelyne said:

I am very familiar with the "trick", when I said I think they are in parallel, I meant I don't know if these are 24 v or 12v panels. I am assuming they are 12v.  The Victron MPPT controller can take either 12 or 24 volt panels so it would make sense if you put them in parallel to keep the voltage at 12v but sum the current.

I am not the most fluent when it comes to solar panel install and I have not had much time to explore the package on my own trailer.

Thanks for the post --

Brian

Be careful not to confuse the input voltage capacity to the regulated output of the solar controller.  The OP’s controller can handle up to 100 volts coming in but always outputs 12ish (vs 24) to match the wiring of the batteries. The 12 volt panels have a peak voltage output of 18 and could be wired in parallel or series. The 24 volt panels could also be used (wired series or parallel) although in series they’d be pushing close to 75 volts at peak output. 
 

Returning to the OP’s question…if you wanted to add the portable panels to your installed mppt controller you need to find out what the exact peak voltage is on your portable panel (probably 20.5v) and compare it to the Oliver units (probably 18.6 and wired in parallel). If you combine the two sets via parallel wiring the voltage will be reduced to the lowest set (probably 18.6) so the efficiency of your portable is reduced slightly. However, the wiring is much easier because you’re not breaking the (series) circuit when you disconnect the portable panel. 
 

*If* Oliver wired the main panels in series or if they’re using the 24v models (in parallel) you would greatly reduce the efficiency of those units by plugging in your portable set wired in parallel. The peak 37v output would be reduced to 20.5 without gaining any extra amps in return. If you had two portable panels I would absolutely buy a separate controller and wire those units in series. The higher voltage would allow longer extensions with less line loss (or smaller wires). Even with your current setup I would probably recommend an additional cheap (smaller) victron mppt controller to keep the factory wiring original and keep things simple…

[Steve Morris]

First of all, a big thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I've learned a *lot* reading these posts and the linked information. Thank you!

 

20 hours ago, ChrisMI said:

*If* Oliver wired the main panels in series or if they’re using the 24v models (in parallel) you would greatly reduce the efficiency of those units by plugging in your portable set wired in parallel.

Chris nailed it. Today I took a photo of the panels label, and sure enough, they are 24 volt, and are wired in parallel. Here's the label:

And here is the web page for this model: https://www.newpowa.com/200w-24v-monocrystalline-solar-panel/?sscid=41k7_u6vc6&#label1

 

Interesting that they rate them at 1000 W/m2. I'm assuming that's an industry standard, but even here at 42°N we regularly have 1200-1300 W/m2 in the summer. My 12 year max in my backyard is 1332. In the sunny southwest, does more W/m2 result in higher output? Or is the 1000 W/m2 spec the theoretical Max? 

 

For reference, here's the web page for my Bluetti panel and specs:https://www.bluettipower.com/products/bluetti-pv200-200w-solar-panel

 

So, hooking my 12V panel in parallel to the 24V panel isn't going to work. Or, it would, but it would be less efficient that it is now, not additive. I will be hooking my remote panel directly to the batteries using an MPPT charge controller. I currently have an Epever 3210 AN, but I found that it got quite hot when using it in my old 4Runner with a roof mounted 100W panel and 10Ah AGM battery. Maybe I'll replace it with the small Victron, so at least it will show up on the app I'm already using.

 

Thank again for all of the shared knowledge!

 

 

[Rivernerd]

On 4/20/2023 at 11:47 AM, Galway Girl said:

This post is on the upgrade to dual Lithionics 315gtx and the Victron DC/DC charger inside the Oliver to charge Lithionics while towing.

Thanks for your informative post. 

And please forgive what may be a dumb question, but here goes:  "Why did you disable the black battery charging wire in your tow vehicle, instead of running wire from the new Lithionics batteries in the Oliver to the DC/DC charger, and then to that black wire in the 7-pin?"  Intuitively, it seems to me that the purpose of installing a DC/DC charger in the trailer is to safely transmit the juice generated by the tow vehicle alternator to the trailer LiFePO4 battery bank.  What am I missing?

[Ollie-Haus]

1 hour ago, Rivernerd said:

Thanks for your informative post. 

And please forgive what may be a dumb question, but here goes:  "Why did you disable the black battery charging wire in your tow vehicle, instead of running wire from the new Lithionics batteries in the Oliver to the DC/DC charger, and then to that black wire in the 7-pin?"  Intuitively, it seems to me that the purpose of installing a DC/DC charger in the trailer is to safely transmit the juice generated by the tow vehicle alternator to the trailer LiFePO4 battery bank.  What am I missing?

The black wire that supplies power to the 7pin plug on the tow vehicle is too small of gauge to supply enough current to charge the lithium batteries fast enough. For the amount of amperage to charge the batteries at an optimal rate, you need to run a 4ga wire, both positive and negative, to an Anderson plug on the rear of the truck. You then have to run that same gauge wire from the DC/DC charger to the tongue of the trailer and the other half of the Anderson plug. When hitched up you will have the full amperage needed through the heavy gauge Anderson connection.

Image from Craig's blog:

[rideandfly]

We’re seeing about 3.5Amps of charge with the Tundra connected to Ollie’s 7 pin connector while idling charging  our Ollie’s single 100AH BattleBorn lithium battery at 75% SOC.

Using a Victron Bluetooth shunt to see the rate of charge. Don’t have enough Bluetooth range to monitor while towing,

 

[MAX Burner]

11 hours ago, rideandfly said:

Using a Victron Bluetooth shunt to see the rate of charge. Don’t have enough Bluetooth range to monitor while towing,

We're getting about the same charge reading from the Victron smart shunt when the Tundra's at idle - haven't tried the app while towing yet.  From what you're saying, we probably won't get a signal unless I make Diane ride in the pickup's bed... HA!

[rideandfly]

34 minutes ago, MAX Burner said:

We're getting about the same charge reading from the Victron smart shunt when the Tundra's at idle - haven't tried the app while towing yet.  From what you're saying, we probably won't get a signal unless I make Diane ride in the pickup's bed... HA!

Yep, can’t speak for someone else, but I’m the one that would be in the pickup bed if I wanted Bluetooth signal! 😂