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Anywhere and any time there is heavy dust -- in other words, places that are dry (the west in general) and places that have heavy farming and/or ranching and places with a lot of pollen. I find that it takes a lot more than an annual cleaning to keep these clear, but it's not hard or too time-consuming, and well worth it. I just use the pipe cleaner method and hand wiping, I don't have a compressor, but I might try canned air (like the kind used for darkroom photography, to clean the film).

I'm glad this old thread got bumped. When it was started I was a new member of the Forum. Palo Duro Canyon SP might just be a great day-2 stop for us on the way to the OTT Rally, only 30 minutes from I-40. Though it would be a shame to be there for only an overnight stay! Hopefully this Texas SP can be the location for a future Texas Rally!

Before the shutdown Oliver was planning something similar with the "Sport" package. Check out the price for the "Appliance Package" add on... 😲

Perhaps an understatement! OTT Sales would not want to see me coming. 🤣 if I was to purchase a new Oliver, my build would have NO factory options! No batteries or tray, no inverter, solar wiring to roof but no panels. No A/C or fan, just the two 14x14” cutouts. No rooftop cameras or old-tech Wi-Fi booster. No microwave, just the opening, and no tank gauges. No TV, no radio, no interior wall mounted displays (all we need are Bluetooth apps) not a thermostat, nothing at all. 🤠 No soft furnace ducting, must be fixed hard ducting. No silicone caulk on anything anywhere! Of course we would not be able to negotiate such a bare Oliver, but it would be a great canvas to paint my own design and build. Got to go back to 16” wheels, D52 axles and the full 5-leaf Alcan Spring package and LT vs ST tires. I wonder the price tag on such an Oliver? It’s actually what I’ve done the hard way in a used Oliver, using fiberglass fill patching 100 holes, literally. 🙃

I originally ordered the ‘Black Samba’ fiber-granite for our 2020 OLEll and also opted for the Lagun table in matching color. The Lagun table was only offered with the twin bed floor plan and was factory-mounted on the front of the nightstand, which blocked the nightstand drawer when in place (see pic). I kept the Lagun table permanently mounted even though it hindered access to the nightstand drawer and overhead attic. After a few years I decided to reconfigure the Lagun mount and add a second bed table for independent use by each of us. However, upon contacting Oliver to purchase another ‘Black Samba’ Lagun tabletop I was told that color was discontinued. I ended up buying two in a contrasting gray color that closely matched the vinyl flooring, ‘Monte Blanc’ fiber-granite. After developing a sliding mount and installing the two new Lagun tables, I decided to make use of the original Lagun tabletop by replacing and extending the pantry countertop. The original pantry countertop was then used to extend the dinette table. I previously stated that heavy duty Velcro was used to secure the extended countertop, but 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener was actually the product used, Velcro on steroids! Original pantry countertop used to extend the dinette table.

You guys OK? I saw some bad flooding on the news in that area.

Welcome to the club. There are a lot of options I'd skip if I knew then what I know now. I am happy to offer my thoughts if you want to discuss your option choices.

I have to think the lack of authorized or certified Oliver service outside of Hohenwald is a bit of a turnoff to some. Prospective buyers need to realize the vast majority of RV repairs have nothing to do with the trailer shell itself. My research says these guys operate similarly. There might be more. Casita Travel Trailers Escape Trailer Industries Scamp Trailers Bowlus Luxe Fifth Wheels Hallmark RV

Yes, soft water lines must be installed in and out of the water pump. OTT used some kind of 'white' suction line from the fresh water tank. I'm not sure of the difference between this and PEX except the tubing is translucent and you can see the water within. You can see examples of both tubing in the picture I took after installing motorized ball valves.

Given a Windows PC, turn it right-side up using the rotate button. Then click on Edit and crop your picture. I usually crop, flatten most to the 16:9 size, then Save or Save as Copy if you want to keep the original. It should stay right-side-up after working these steps. Agreed, they are kinda goofy, could be smaller with more simple functionality. I usually just push the one button setting fans at 50% and don't use/trust the temp set function. Great fans though! If you can fit the larger size, they pull a lot of air hence my using the 50% setting. I have one installed in the upper fridge vent and another installed in the basement to cool the Victron MP2, exhausting to the rear storage area. I only set them when needed, when I feel the upper fridge vent is hot or anytime the sun is on that side. The Victron has a temp reading on the app and rarely (when hot outside, battery SOC low, charging on full at 120A) I'll also turn it on at 50% where at this setting these fans are whisper quiet. 😎 I'm with John on this one, for utility besides safety reasons. I installed two Beech Lane fans both exhausting hot air, like we use our cabin MaxxFan in exhaust mode only. Neither style fan will function effectively (nor efficiently in CFM) when installed to push vs. exhaust air. The Beech Lane fan mounted nicely in the upper fridge vent in our hull with the older Dometic 3-way absorption fridge, no custom bracket required.

Great job! I think this set-up is way better than the Beech Lane with that goofy control box. The original switches are hard to source because the indicating LED is on the top side of the switch. Most of them have the LED on the bottom side of the switch and I bought several before finding the right one. The specifications just don't say! For future reference, LighthouseLEDS sells them for $2.99, SKU# SPST12VROCKERSWITCHBLUE, and they ship fast!

5k buys a lot of battery power and portable solar. An awning has to be brought in in windy conditions. Pretty prevalent in many parts of the west. I'd skip it. We use the original awning a lot. Sometimes only a foot or two over the door. Never been tempted to get a second awning, though. Congratulations on your upcoming adventures!

I am NOT disappointed to see the dealer network go. But a separate issue is finding good service centers outside Hohenwald. I managed to find one in my Wisconsin area where i feel comfortable taking my Oliver. The key to this success is the willingness of Oliver tech support to work with them when necessary. OTT has been very good about this. After all, most of the components are not "Oliver" and appear in other trailers. At one time I suggested creating a directory of Oliver-friendly service centers across the US, but the logistics of doing so and the relatively small footprint of Olivers didnt make it practical.

A little sad to see this, as I thought the intent was to have qualified service beyond Hohenwald . But, I get it. Oliver is a distinct elite niche product.

We use a compressor and small nozzle at the end to blow out the track drains. Also have used pipe cleaners and wire in the past. The window design is pretty much window industry standard. My home windows also have weepholes. If drains/weephole are clear, you have other issues. Definitely eyebrows/gutters help, but is there another issue?

Geoff, Thanks for all the ground worked you did in testing and designing your fan system and such a great writeup. It really made this job a lot easier. I copied the bottom side of the installation pretty much what you had. The only change I made was the order of wires on the terminal Block. I started with the 12V+ on the bottom and then the 12V- on the top of the block, and did the flow up the terminal block just like your electric diagram: 12V+ ->Main switch -> Thermal Switch -> Fans -> 12V-. On the top side I had about 3.5 inches of opening clearance from the bottom of the opening to the fiberglass support for the microwave shelf. I did find a fan that was 92mm (3 5/8") with IP68 waterproof rating. I used a 1/2 aluminum angle stock and screwed downward into the middle of the outer shell and shimmed the aluminum angle up about 7/32" so the #8 Bolts heads would clear the plastic and I would have A little more contact of the fans against the upper section in the back. The top of the fans are not screwed in. They are setting against the upper fiber glass shelf with about 3-5 pounds of pressure. Nice tight fit. Sorry the picture is upside down I can't figure out get it correct. I tried rotating the original but that didn't help. Things I really like about this setup. 1. The terminal block Allows for quick diagnostic with a voltmeter. 2. Nothing is hardwired, All components have connectors so the thermal switch and fans are easily replaceable when there is a failure. 3. The thermal switch is very easily adjustable for height and location. 4. The wiring looks clean. I did a test on it yesterday. It was around 86 degrees outside. Took about 30 minutes for the thermal switch to kick on. Temp was between 120-125 degrees coming out of of the hottest side of the fans . I don't know why but I couldn't find a source for the original switches on the inside control panel without going through Oliver. I wanted to put in a dimmer for the outside porch lights and I was pressed for time to order an original switch from Oliver and to wait 2-4 weeks to get a part from them. So I bought a dimmer for the porch lights and received it in 2 days and moved the original porch light switch to the Street side awning position to use for the fans. Lastly, thanks for the info on removing the microwave, I never would have known about the jack screw. The inside of the microwave cabinet was slightly different. There was a step up in the back sort of like a backstop for the microwave the went clear across the back of the cabinet. So I removed 5 screws holding the bottom panel and backstop, This allowed full access to the back. After feeding the wires and loom through to the back of the fridge area, I resealed the hole with spray foam behind the microwave, and re-taped the Fridge area with aluminum duct tape around the loom and touched up some areas where the original tape was having some problems. It was a good thing I had to remove the microwave. The microwave was coated with fiberglass dust and there were piles of fiber glass dust in the cabinet. Now at least the back of the microwave and the cabinet is clean. I do not know what the air flow is inside and around the microwave, but I would hate to think that fiberglass dust got into the food/drinks.

I see the added piece behind the dinette tabletop, but where get you get the deeper pantry shelf - as well as the matching pattern for the dinette?

I guess I’ll look closer next time. (I go in that area so seldom because it’s a PITA to wedge up the mattress topper, cushions, access cover just to reconfigure the valves to winterize/boondock/nornal.) I wonder if the “engineers” that put valves, breakers, and fuse holders in places that require moving bedding and cushions might have come up with better ideas if they had taken a prototype out first for a few months - changing configurations and the like.

John and I don’t think the wire pulled from the axle looks like the culprit (though only the wire from front axle was pulled, the other is still in there, cut free)… only the small section near the hole with missing grommet was nicked. However, there were no warning messages yesterday. Today will be a longer tow, and I will keep the forum updated. UPDATE: It was about 650 miles from Prescott AZ to Cimarron NM, with zero warning messages, but it's still not definitive -- I will tow 300 miles in about a week, and another 500 miles the following week. Remembering that I towed 1,000 miles without these messages at the beginning of my trip, I believe time will tell.

Time will tell! John and I don’t think the wire pulled from the axle looks like the culprit (though only the wire from front axle was pulled, the other is still in there, cut free)… only the small section near the hole with missing grommet was nicked. However, there were no warning messages yesterday. Today will be a longer tow, and I will keep the forum updated.

Hopefully her brake issue is fixed for good!

Ours too, but we're hoping to go camping for a few days next week! 😎 We just had a guest Ollie here, for a few great days! 😂 But now she's gone. You might know who. Woke up yesterday, looked out our living room window and I got scared! Thought for a moment we still had a Dometic P2, oh NO! 🤣

I'm jealous! Really beautiful area.

Thanks, appreciate the info and context!

I just noticed that with the exception of the dealer in Canada, all of them are now gone. All sales have officially moved back to Hohenwald. I think this will come as welcome news to many potential new owners. Many were opting to actually come to Tennessee for their pickup and delivery anyway. It has been reported that many dealers were taking payment, handing over the keys and sending people on their way without any kind of walk through. That's just not acceptable. Other dealers were selling the trailer, allowing the new owners to pick up their unit in Tennessee and still charging them $1.2-1.5K for "cleanup and delivery". That's just wrong. I believe this is a wise and good move for Oliver. They gave it a good run. Sometimes things just don't work out as well as predicted. Good job, Guys...