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IF you are worried about heat on your trip - you can use a Mr. Heater "Buddy" heater like THIS ONE. For over 20 years I've used one of these since they do not require electric and are reasonably good on propane usage. These heaters also come with CO and overall O2 sensors with automatic shutoff. Good luck and have fun on your trip! Bill p.s. These heaters are available at many WalMart's and Tractor Supply.

I apologize for not posting a resolution sooner. I changed the inverter circuit breaker for new. Hard to find. Home Depot website only. Charging issue resolved. My theory is a washboard road in and out of 11 Mile Reservoir State Park CO. Who knows?! Thank you for all your knowledge. Mark

Having shower pan backup and slow draining with water from bathroom sink, lots of gurgling through kitchen sink, slow draining with grey valve CLOSED. Normal draining when grey valve OPEN. I read this post which made me remember I had used a power washer during washing the day prior. Hooked up shop Vac to roof vent for 5 min. Same result of about half gallon of water. Seems to have solved the issue. Thanks for posting!

Dud, you are starting to get above my electrical knowledge which is easy to do😉. I assume I should set to 20V DC, hold black probe to ground bus, then red probe to each side of the fuse with the switch on?

Snackchasser - Pulled the fuse and turned the pump on and no red light in the fuse box. I did check wiring on the Seelevel, but not under sink as that panel is caulked shut . Golfnut - The trailer is new and this is the first time I am trying to use the pump so as far as I know it has never worked. Tom - I have never used the pump (new trailer). I poured 1/4 cup bleach into the end of the hose and connected it to the fresh water fill. Filled the tank to 100% and water was draining out in front of tire, changed the valves to the boondocking configuration, turned on the pump and nothing worked. The lines are not pressurized as nothing comes out of the faucets. The hot water heater was working when I picked the trailer up last week. Shame on me for not checking the heater at Oliver, but it was over 90 degrees in Hohenwald. Headed to the mountains on Monday and the lows are in the 40's so I thought I would learn how to turn on the heater before I left home and it did not work. There is a W255H code Oliver is helping me trouble shoot. When we shut everything down and brought back up in order, then had the Truma control panel relearn the connected devices it could not find the furnace or hot water heater. They think it is a communication error, bad splitter, or a bad CP. All the data cable connections are secure and the wiring plugs are all connected. Thanks for trying to help! Let me know if you have any other ideas. We still plan to go on the trip, will just have to haul water, and bring extra blankets.

6 or 7 consecutive for Wyoming. This will be number 21 for consecutive years in either Wyoming, Montana, Idaho or Colorado. Ya just don't know where the "stupid" fish are located! 😉 Bill

Many of us envy your annual trip, at least I do! But it's been proven, I just cannot fish! 🤣 How many consecutive Wyoming fishing trips will it be, Bill? (this year included)

Just for clarity, did you begin the sanitation process by configuring the valves for boon docking mode and pumping the bleach solution into the fresh tank (using the water pump), and did that work? ....Then filling the fresh tank from the fresh tank fill inlet, and configuring the valves for normal mode? ...And now the pump does not work? I'm also curious about why your water heater and furnace aren't working, when did you discover that? Did all of these issues happen around the same time?

If OLIVER hasnt change the wire color , its a purple wire from the fuse panel..if you can trace in back from there.. i have an Elite 1. The wire was loose from a relay plug back by the battery box under the bed, street side.. Has the pump ever worked? Good luck and stay safe out there..

The pump fuse clearly has power because it's connected to the same bus as the other working fuses. That red LED blown fuse indicator will only light when there is a load on the circuit. If the circuit is open, say the pump switch is off, or the pump/switches became disconnected, then there is no load and the LED stays off. With the DC panel fuse pulled out, try the switching the pump on to see the LED lights. That will tell you if the is an open connection somewhere in the circuit. Remember the circuit includes both the hot wire and ground. It's most likely that an open connection would be at the pump, either one of the the switches, or possibly at the back of the DC panel where the pump circuit connects to the fuse. Least likely that it's a broken wire, bad pump, or open ground. I believe the pumps ground goes directly to the main ground bus, it does not go to the switches, although the switches will have ground potential through the pump motor windings. It's possible that the connections to the bathroom switch have come off, but it sounds like you might have checked that already. You're on the right track thinking it's an electrical problem because the green light does not work. However, I would recheck your valve lineup because it sounds like you're trying to draw water in through the boondocking connection. It is possible that the pump is pressurized and the pressure switch is open preventing the pump from running further. . Good luck and let s know what you find. Geoff

Can you meter the fuse socket with the fuse removed? There should be power on one side.

Not for me. Way too much tech to go wrong. Deck is a crazy idea, and super claustrophobic with no window when not deployed. SkyDream Plans Global Launch into Challenging RV Market https://share.google/kpEvukUMmqfENZR7F

2026 Hull 1703 We are at home getting ready to leave on Monday for our first trip. Cooling down the refrigerator and running the AC. Just filled my fresh tank for the first time with water and bleach to sanitize as we will not have power or water where we are going. I set all 5 valves to the appropriate direction. Flipped pump switch on Seelevel to bring bleach water thru the lines to the faucets. The little green light did not come on. The pump did not come on. Flipped the switch in the bathroom, no change. The plug on the back of the switch is connected and I wiggled it to make sure there was a good connection. Did the same for the main plug going into the back of the SeeLevel. The Battery, Fresh, Grey, and Black level all work correctly. Checked the fuse and there was continuity. But when I took the fuse out of the fuse block, the red light next to the fuse did not light up. I can pull ay other fuse out and the red light comes on next to the fuse. I think that means there is no power in the circuit to the pump? I am no electrician, just trying to figure it out. Does anyone have any suggestions? We plan to leave our camping trip early and head to Oliver on Thursday to have our furnace and hot water heater looked at as they do not work either and they were unable to fix over the phone. It has been a rough start!

Getting ready to leave at near the end of the month (June) for the rest of the summer. Got to get all of those "honey do's" done first!🥰

Home for the Summer! 🤣 Come see us if your heading one state further West! 😎 Got electric and water for you, free dump station down the street, and lots of great camping around town and in the Prescott NF! (no bighorn sheep though, how cool!)

USFS Campground Columbine Creek , near Questa New Mexico and Red River. Bighorn sheep hangout along the highway nearby, cool visitor center in Questa New Mexico. Hiking trails in the campground to the Honda Wilderness Restored Catholic Church in Questa where is everyone else 🧐

Jason talks about registration fees in the video above. But for those that don't want to watch this video here is what he says: $100 per person from now to the end of June $150 per person from July 1st until close of "normal" registration - assume that this date will be announced later $200 per person from the close of "normal" registration for "late" registration Obviously, to save a bit of coin, registering before the end of June is less expensive. However, even though it appears as though the 2026 Rally will be well attended, the more of us that register "early" also greatly helps the folks at Oliver, helps the folks at the State Park and helps presenters and demonstrations with planning, ordering food, swag and venues for each of the activities. For those that might be worried about something happening that would prevent attendance after already paying your money, in the past up until a fairly late date prior to the Rally, Oliver has refunded most (if not all) of the Rally fees. Looking forward to seeing "old" friends and meeting a bunch of new folks too. Bill

Meh...

Just had our Alcan Springs installed today, along with Bulldog Shocks on our 2022. The Dexter Springs had started to flatten anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4". I had a spare Dexter 4-Leaf spring that the arch measured at 3-3/4".

Same with us so we just put down the 21st in the oliver form.

We just registered. FYI: The Oliver on-line registration doesn't accept arrival dates before the 21st. but we're arriving on 20 Oct.

TECHNICAL SUPPORT TEAM answered my question -- I will leave it here, for others who might be asking the same. When you plan to decalcify the Truma AquaGo Water Heater AND Sanitize the plumbing system, there is a specific order that this should be done. It's logical, but I wasn't sure about any potential chemical reactions between the one (Truma Decalcification Tablets) and the other (a diluted water & bleach solution). FIRST -- complete the Decalcification process. Then flush the system with clean water. SECOND -- Sanitize the system. REMEMBER to put the system into BYPASS CONFIGURATION for the Water Heater during the Sanitization process. After Sanitization, flush the system TWICE with clean water. THIRD -- Fill the tank with fresh water Shout-out to Chris with Oliver's Technical Department for helping me out with this question this morning.

Thanks for that intel. Does anyone know if it’s the unit with heat pump, model # , btu rating, and if it’s a drop in replacement?

I have been using the Cielo Breez Max smart thermostat for almost a year with no apparent issues, nor have I read any negative reports from other users (Oliver, as well as SOB owners) regarding potential harm to their RV air conditioners. Some have expressed concern with the power ON/OFF attribute of the Cielo and inherent longterm harm to electrical control and mechanical components. Proper configuration of settings to prevent ‘short cycling’ is paramount in avoiding said harm, whereby the compressor is allowed time to equalize refrigerant pressures and thus, significantly lessen subsequent strain on sensitive equipment. I’m of the opinion 1) that Cielo has built in scheduling features by default to provide for necessary delays between compressor cycles, as do most RV thermostats, and 2) the soft start device pairs well with the Cielo to further lessen any longterm concerns I may have. I can honestly say that the Cielo has completely resolved the ‘humidity spike’ issues once experienced and exceeds my expectations as a replacement thermostat in our Oliver.

I took a trip to Oliver on Tuesday with a prospective buyer. While we were looking at the 2027 model the salesman started the Dometic Freshjet, It was almost as quiet as the Truma AC in my Elite ll. We could easily converse with it running.