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Welcome Brian, looking forward to hearing more re your project(s)! Is it worth it? An extra 100W is a drop in the bucket, although aimed at the sun it is more efficient compared to each 100W on the roof. We added a Victron MPPT 30A SC and the 30-LB Renogy 400W suitcase. I've found almost 2 years later that we rarely use it and should have saved the upgrade $$$. Wish somebody told me this 2 years ago! We move around a bit. I now believe extra solar is for those who want to boondock in one place for a week or longer. And you have to chase the sun all day in moving panels. There is an Oliver owner who sells a machine that rotates the panel, but it's another thing to carry and it only holds one panel. The only guys I see running much solar are the ones that live in their campers, staying the 14-day limit on BLM lands. Since we move around a bit, sometimes just one overnight, most often we stay 3 nights and then "on the road again." In this use case the DC-2-DC charger is a much greater value. We can charge 200 Ah while towing a half day drive. 😎 Our 400W suitcase will not add 200Ah babysitting them all day on the sunniest of days! Here are my two related upgrade links:

We have the "portable" solar panel that Oliver sells, which is essentially the same one that's on the roof but includes a controller. We found it too bulky and heavy to bring along camping so we use it during the winter to maintain the batteries when the camper is covered and not being used. It's good to have a light weight panel to supplement the roof-top panels when camping in shaded areas.

My 2023 has the same outlet, and I think Tom is correct in that it is for AC power to the fridge. I used that outlet with a 12 ga extension cord to supply power to my exterior AC outlet under the folding table. I tapped into the fridge's 12V DC power for the cigarette outlet.

Interesting, but not interested. Oliver is simple, well designed for the space available. It is not full of gadgetry. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). I think I'm showing my age. SkyDream is just the opposite. The only thing they have in Common is they are made out of Fiberglass. Probably half the places I camp the deck would useless due to thing being in the way. Also in the Pacific North West (PNW) I would worry about leaks. Although when I saw the newest walk through video on the new LEII, I had reservations over the awning with the solar panels on top. It is great having that much extra charging power. I don't think the longevity of these flexible panels would come near the useful life span of the solid mounted roof top panels. Replacing the awning I'm sure would be very expensive. I have trouble getting the regular awning clean and dry in the PNW due to the 7-8 months of rain. When I do have the opportunity to roll out awning and clean and let it dry completely the Oliver and Awning ends up blocking the whole driveway. So it has to be a planned project. I do pack a small Stihl blower and a ladder so I try to blow off the pine needle/leaves/twigs off of the top before finally rolling it up for travel.

Great info! Thanks

We use 200w Renogy panels when dry camping or boon docking for more than 3 days in one place. See our article. External Solar Kit Details - Hull 505 We've found that it's helpful when the trailer is shaded by tree's and we want to keep things topped off for longer stays. CS

Morning, I know a lot (too much) has already been written on replacing the very very loud AC systems but I have just one simple(?) question. This relates to my very limited "extra" ceiling height room above my Oliver in my storage building. What are the two "best" low (no higher than existing Oliver installed) profile quiet AC to replace the current beast on my 2022 Oliver? Why? Thanks (FYI: From Wisconsin and we don't use AC here. However, just returned from the 100 degree SW and rethinking the topic.)

I believe that it's used for a certain model of refrigerator that used 110VAC. My '23 model has one as well. Oliver wanted to have an AC option available if they decided to change refrigerator types / brands. The end of the cord in my trailer feeds up to the back of the refrigerator but it isn't connected to anything (since I have a 12V refrigerator). It's basically an extension cord.

Morning When repairing/upgrading drawer slide/latch and basement access cover system I noticed the plug in the attached photo. I know several of the informed minds on the Forum can/will be able to simply answer my question in seconds. What is this electrical line's function and why the use of a plug in the basement? Thanks.

This post isn’t finished but I had to quit typing for a while. Tune in later for the big ending… Old Ventline fan removed and the roof area cleaned up. I used ASI 0240 adhesive remover and plastic scrapers. Cleaned up the edges of the original holes with a chamfer bit in a drill motor. The factory didn’t align the old vent with the hole and didn’t drill and chamfer the holes which resulted in chipped gelcoat. In this picture the pilot holes (1/16”) for MaxxFan Dome are located and drilled. I wanted the screws to be perpendicular to the MaxxFan mounting flange so I tried to drill them at the correct angle to the surface of the roof. I did a lot of test fitting inside and out. The outside fan, the middle sleeve, and the interior trim ring must fit together well for this retrofit to work out right. I used a carpenter’s pencil and 2 rubber bands from of a bunch of broccoli to hold the sleeve in place while I got the pieces located just right. I did this before I marked the holes for the flange. New pilot holes are enlarged to 1/8 inch and chamfered Test fit the screws to make sure they are not too tight. If they are too tight you risk breaking the screw in the hole. If the test fit is too tight go up to 9/64 inch bit. I used a 1/16 inch drill for a pilot then enlarged with a 1/8 inch drill and finished with a 1/2 inch chamfer bit. Be sure to use sharp bits and drill SLOW. I wanted the flange to be straight, not pulled down to fit the curved roof. I applied one layer of butyl all the way around the bottom of the flange. I then applied 2 short strips between about 10:00-2:00 and 4:00- 8:00. I again applied 2 even shorter strips between 10:30-1:30 and 4:30-7:30. I tried to build the butyl up in the places where the widest gaps would occur, that is the front and back of the fan. Black button on the handle goes toward the front of the trailer. Work the wires and splice connectors into the space between the hulls while inserting the fan assembly into the hole in the roof. I wiped the mounting location with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry and filled the old and new screw holes with ASI 335 and set the fan in place using a couple of screws inserted through the flange and butyl for alignment. Tighten each screw down a little at a time and try to keep from distorting the flange. I would tighten the screws and leave them for a while to let the butyl push out then I would tighten them a little more until I got the flange sitting like I wanted it to sit and then left the butyl to do what it wanted to for a while. While the butyl was oozing I went inside the trailer and placed the sleeve back in the hole and made sure the upper edge was against the bottom of the fan and the notch for the wire retainer was in place and using a pencil I marked a line around the sleeve where it exits the curved ceiling. I drew another line 3/8” below this line to account for the interior trim ring and cut the sleeve to this line using a pair of heavy shears and a razor knife and finished to fit with a sanding block. I attached the trim ring and tightened the screws enough to pull the ring up to conform to the curvature of the ceiling. to be continued…be patient!

Ugh, no thanks, I’m retiring from having to work in an office building, why would I want to take one on the road?

Given the right time (sun) and place (security for the panels) then more is better. If you have the room and payload capacity to take the panels with you - then - why not? There is nothing to "hurt" and only more energy to gain. Bill

Hello all Hull #1633. Does anyone use a portable solar panel for a little extra charge power with a LE2 platinum package. The trailer has 400 watts of solar and i have a 100w Renogy suit case panel that i used with my old trailer. I already have the adapter to go from Renogy to Zamp. Is the extra 100W worth it and is there any problem with doing this? Thanks in advance.

Not sure about this one…. https://youtube.com/shorts/QOvTdqhmEgk?si=yu9p2qfs7fkid0ch

Finally got around to fixing the problems that I identified in my original post almost 2 years ago. I used a small drum sander on a cordless drill motor to make a cutout for the part of the accumulator that was rubbing. This also quieted a vibration heard during pump operation While I had the drum sander out I enlarged the cutouts above both rear jack manual operation studs so that I can now get the manual crank on them if needed I placed a couple of spare bolt protectors on some 1/2 inch nuts and threaded them on the exposed bolt ends where they contacted the heater duct I know that these are really simple fixes but they might help someone that doesn’t know that the problems even exist. Bill

Update to my original post I replaced my original Dill TPMS system with the new Dill Bluetooth TPMS system and have used it for the last 3 days. These sensors are internally mounted just like the sensors on your truck and automobile tires. My truck doesn’t have the required RPO necessary to receive the sensor signals but the output is displayed on my truck infotainment screen when my phone is plugged in. I usually keep my phone display on the Dill app and keep Google Maps displayed on the infotainment screen but here is a picture that shows the Dill output on both screens You can download the data from the sensors into Excel. Dill recommends that you use a BLE signal repeater to extend the signal to your phone. I am trying different locations for the repeater but for now I have it on the left rear corner of the dinette and plugged into the 12v accessory receptacle under the dinette. I attached the 12v accessory plug to the repeater wires. I am getting 100% signal reception with the repeater located here. Signal reception is noted on the app display. I really like this version of Dill’s TPMS system compared to the older version that I used from 2019-2025.

I finished the rear light! It looks great and lights up the park! The hard part is removing all the dishes, glasses, spices, etc. and putting them back! I worked a little trick and used some existing wiring. I'll run an extra switch leg, next time Chris wants to rearrange things up there! Thanks, Mossey.

The Oliver Porch Lights are bright for a dark campsite, so we rarely use them. But if you need to light up the area they work great. I've often wondered, why isn't there lighting on the front and rear of the Oliver? I asked a year ago about replacement lights for our OEM Porch Lights and just purchased some recently. OTT should install these lights in all four directions. I would have done one up front too, but running wire would be difficult. I got something else for up front, more on that later. https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319 I carefully measured the four Porch Lights OTT installed, as the distance from hull belly line, which btw holds a tape measure nicely, up to centerline of the Porch Light at the mounting screws. Turns out they were all installed at different heights +/- 3/4". As a special bonus, this light is 1/4" off from front to the rear mounting screws. My new Rear Porch Light, I promise is the straightest of the bunch! 🤣 It's not easy to choose the best spot to drill into the exterior of your hull, this one especially. I cut away some of the white insulation in the back of the attic. I used a 2-ft piece of metal fish-tape with the ends curled back, running it down the inside of the back exterior hull. Repeatedly, it measured 12" form the bottom of the OLIVER taillight to where the fish-tape hit the top of the rear window frame. It measured 12" so I figured I should go 10" max. Looking from the outside, there is a flat fiberglass frame around the rear window. Above that, the top rear is convex. I had to find the best spot so that the approx. 8" x 1 1/2" light would sit flat in both directions. If not water would get behind it. I drilled a 1/4" hole centered to the window, so the light is just above the flat frame area of the rear window. I soldered and heat shrink extra length of wire to the light. If they only attached 18" of wire! Offset the splices so that they would fit nicely into the drilled hole. It wasn't an easy pull but a few ins and outs and the light pulled flush (would be easier with 2 people, one in one out). I eyeballed the light level to the window frame. I wanted to VHB the light housing vs. drilling two mounting holes but the design of the light would not allow for it. They do not include hardware. Found the stoutest 1" course thread screws that would fit the openings and I drilled 6/94" holes after marking the centers. Wiring? I wanted to add the new rear light to the Side Porch Lights (streetside). However, I could not find the switch leg in the back corner of the attic and I did not want to remove all the stuff out of the kitchen cabinets. But that would be the right way to do it. Cabinets empty, you can easily run wiring up to the main switch panel. Our hull had a rear camera and a separate switch to power it. I removed the camera a year ago, so I'm using this separate switch with existing wiring. I copied something Geoff did, where he used a Sharpie to black out the word "Awning." Mine has a thin cut piece of black tape over the word "Camera" so it just reads "Rear" now! 🤣 I had to wait patiently for dusk and dark tonight! The hull looks great with the new Rear Porch Light to compliment the side lights. And finally, it alone lights up the yard! 😎

Could it be that Oliver did the same thing with the cooktop? Is it simply plugged into a hidden outlet like the microwave and fridge is on our unit and that outlet is on Circuit 4? If the cooktop is on the 2000 watt inverter it could easily overload it. Most small induction burners max out around 1800 watts/15 amps. At full power that only leaves 200 watts/1.7 amps for anything else. If it's NOT on the inverter, that sucks, too.

Just looked at our faucet which overall looks similar except we do not have an Allen screw on top. I would remove the handle again to see if with some kind of tool it can be moved. You can’t make it worse! It’s likely not serviceable, so if it remains to be stuck it will have to be replaced. I was back there a couple years ago because the water lines on our faucet were loose and leaking. It will not be a fun job to R&R since there is so little room and you’ll need a mirror to see behind the sink. Hope you can get it to work somehow.

We've had decidedly mixed results with service at Hohenwald.

I would definitely contact OTT Service. if you just had the “Full Monty” service then they should have noticed this.

FIDISP 12 Volt Water Pump, Portable Transfer Pump, 330GPH Larger Flow, 1/10HP Electric Utility Pump with On/Off Switch, 2 * 6’ Water Hose Kit for Garden Pools Aquariums Hot Tub https://a.co/d/0hzZ7HoS Camco Durable Sewer Cap with https://a.co/d/0h5qZBVm Been using this for 4 years. Takes 3 minutes to fill black tank and takes up minimal space. As a bonus it is simple to hook to a hose bib to flush out. John

On further thought, actually no. I doubt any of the pump ideas you mention would work, in my description above I mention that this high powered pump is just doing the job. It’s pumping slower than the spec. I’d only go with this one personally. Yeah I researched these on the forum. The sink option didn’t seem to do a lot for me. The pee bottle diversion would be a big benefit, with three of us (wife and adult son) we need to empty it several times a day. And now Natures Head has this option making it easy https://natureshead.net/multi-directional-urine-diverter-kit/ But that would involve some drilling and a permanent solution, not ready to go there as this trailer isn’t yet three months old. So I just bought a couple extra bottles.

In looking at the circuit description that @Steve and MA provided, it seems that there are two separate feeds. The 30 amp main feeds circuits 1 through 3 which include the water heater, AC and Inverter. These would appear to be circuits that run only on shore power. The water heater (20 amps) must be a propane/AC unit and it makes sense that this would not be energized from the inverter, likely not the AC either. Then there is the "SUB-MAIN INVERTER SUB-PANEL 25 AMP." You could infer that this 25 amp feeds loads that run from the inverter (circuit 4 receptacles and circuit 5 microwave). This is not the correct circuit description for your trailer because stove top load is not listed. However, it does provide clues for what could be going on in your trailer. If the inverter does not support the AC, then it probably doesn't support a high amp induction cooktop either. That would be crazy that a stove cannot be used while boondocking! There are some Xantrex models that have built in circuit breakers for split feeds like this. So there could be the AC sub panel under the dinette feeding AC inverter circuits, and shore power breakers built into the inverter for the water heater, and stove-top. Just an idea to look at, I hope that's not the case though. Geoff .