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When getting the D52's does Alcan run the brake line in or along the outside of the axle? Do they use "high dollar" water proof connections? Do they check what wire gauge was used before connecting to the new 12" brakes? GJ

We have a Girard awning on the starboard side. We wanted something for the port side when we have the space and want the extra shade. The MoonShade XL works good for this, and it is sturdy and very well made. It is really just a lightweight tent awning, not like our heavy duty awning. The XL version is 9’ x 12’, and the longer side just covers both windows, providing shade in the bunk as well as the dinette. It’s expensive, but I bought it when it was a Kickstarter campaign for much less. I would not want to use it as the primary awning. https://moonfab.com/

Yep.

I assume those are these.... From their web sigte: "Ground planes are not required for this antenna to function properly making it ideal for fiberglass roof installations." And also F-150's with aluminum bodies I may add . GJ

These days, yes... I think they used to block transmission on anything over 10mph with the roam plan and you also needed a special dish. I have a friend with a mini mounted on top of his van and it works perfectly at highway speeds.

I remember long ago watching a YouTube, where they had a Starlink dish in the car propped up to the moon-roof and somehow it worked! Maybe they had the larger dish. After using our Mini for a year, I cannot see how that is possible. It's a bit touchy, requiring proper alignment pointing to the northern sky. That's why we have our Pepwave router with Parsec Husky cellular antenna installed in our TV. Chris uses her tablet often while I'm towing. We have our own Wi-Fi connection wherever we drive and on many "flatlands" and most all Interstate Highways, we are connected. No campground or coffee shop Wi-Fi connections for us! Then we use our Starlink only when cell reception is weak, like for example, Burro Creek Campground sitting at the bottom of a DEEP canyon! There's no cell signal, no TV reception, no radio at all, and that's where Starlink truly shines! 😎

I've had this mod down at the bottom of my Oliver to-do list, and it's hard to imagine, but I'm down to the bottom! 🤣 We have the older glass LED lights that are 3 1/8"dia. The glare from the cabin lights is BRIGHT! And I certainly agree white PVC is the way to go, not black ABS for us and not something painted, extra work and would not age well. Long search looking at all the 3-4" PVC parts at Lowes and Depot and I found these 4" drain covers (see pic). With a 3 1/2" hole saw I cut the center out of one (not easy to keep the drill centered, use patience with the drill clutch on). It looks to be a good fit and these were only $3.60 ea at The Home Depot. They are 1 3/4" deep (off the ceiling). If you look at what @Fritz did above, he used VHB tape to mount his. I'm mounting at least 6 for Cabin and Dinette lights or a total of 12 to do all cabin lights. Getting 2-sided tape all around the perimeter of so many light shades would be a pain and if you don't seal the full perimeter light will come through the cracks. I wish 3M made a 1/4" round bead of VHB, but working flat tape around a perimeter is not fun. After cutting these parts, there is an 1/2" flat along the perimeter, a very good surface for sealing. I'm looking for suggestions for a proper sealant. It should bond to PVC to fiberglass, but not permanently! Something that could be removed with a solvent if necessary, and something that would not damage fiberglass. I know I don't want a silicone-based product (wish silicone caulk was never used on our fiberglass). Besides sealants that come in caulk tubes, or brush on, are there any thin bead sealants packaged like butyl tape? Would some brand of butyl hold these light shades? Any ideas? Thank you.

Just for grins question as most of my miles are solo: But, could a passanger successfully use the internet while traveling in the flatlands? GJ

Good luck. Keep a presence on our little forum. It is a very valuable resource for us in the Ollie world.

Yep, to everything Geoff wrote. He is THE electronics/wiring expert on our, The Forum! I wired the DC-2-DC 12/24 charger as he wired, tuned it up to 30V, but so far have not used it. It's an amazing upgrade which I have installed and will use someday. If you look very closely at my picture, the harness going up to the rooftop cellular antenna, the cable tied down in a loop has Ethernet and 30V power supply for our Starlink Mini! There is only time for so much in life, and once I realized a simple battery is all we need for BASIC functionality... I've been using this day-to-day! 😎

Hey Fred! Even with all the other options now availible, this Starlink Mini power supply is a great way to go! I provided Amazon links to the Victron, timer, and programmer to someone else above, and the links are still good. As far as the 3-pin connector, there are several choices on Amazon. Search for 5.5mm 3-pin DC power connector. Go to timers.shop website for programming instructions. Iv'e provided a screen shot of the settings above. The programer is powered by USB, and the settings are flashed to the timer via WiFi by a cell phone or computer, No Apps are required, just open the URL address and plug in the settings. Have Fun! Geoff

I love your article. Can you please provide links for the bluetooth programmer and the 5mm 3 pin connector? Thanks Fred

Hi everyone — I previously did an intro in the introductions section, but my wife and I are new (to us) Oliver owners (about 2 months in). We’ve camped twice so far and already have several trips planned over the next several months, including a lot of boondocking in USFS campgrounds. I've had travel trailers of various forms for about 20 years and we are super excited to now be Oliver owners. I just finished a lithium / inverter / portable solar upgrade on our 2019 Legacy Elite II (Hull 514) and put together a detailed project write-up with photos, wiring approach, parts list, and lessons learned (see attached). The trailer came from the factory without an inverter, no roof solar, and no solar connector. It had two AGM batteries when we bought it. The main goal was a clean, reliable, serviceable install that leverages the existing factory AC/DC wiring/routing and keeps the system simple (including an inline inverter/charger pass-through so the trailer’s AC panel works “like stock,” just with inverter capability). I found great info on this forum as I undertook this project and hope to give back just a little by posting this as a practical reference for anyone planning a similar upgrade — happy to answer questions or share any additional photos/details if it helps. Happy camping!! Lithium Inverter Solar Write-Up.pdf

Hope you don't want to boondock in that kind of weather.......I can't even imagine! Welcome to our forum! Good luck on your quest. GJ

Great episode, Steve!

This would work, but the bike covers I am looking at cover the entire bike and rack. There is probably a work around

I, for one, was thrilled to see this trailer resurrected and restored to its original beautiful self. Personally, I thought that the prior owner made a terrible mistake and created something akin to a mud fence. No disappointment here, good work...

Can't help you with this one. Our TV is an SUV with a back hatch. But the pathfinder back door does not even come close to the box with our setup.

I believe both John Davies and Max Burner previously posted their steps in making this mod. Here is the link to Max Burners project

Is this what you are looking for? https://1up-usa.com/product/led-light-bar-license-plate-holder

Does anyone have a recommendation for a rear light kit that i can attach to my 1UP bike rack? My lights are not very visible once two bikes are on the rack. I would also appreciate advice regarding the electrical connection of the kit. Thanks!

And for sure this is the place to get the best options on how to do them. Especially now that we have a great search engine at our fingertips! YEA!

Double ditto!

Spot on Bill. Couldn't have been laid out any clearer.👍

Episode 19: