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Make sure that protection starts with a FOUR....

So do you leave them loosened up, or do you loosen and retorque every time you grease? … never mind, I see below you fixed it by using Dexter, makes sense. I can’t imagine being able to do that, these are monster, I’d have to check but at least 1/4 plate. Maybe they changed the brackets in the last 1000 hulls I get that, but any way you cut it it’s mechanically weaker and can’t take as much torque. The only advantage I can see is easier installation which may well be the reason.

Thank you both for the advice this si very helpful, the gray and black tank valves appear to be working fine. The back flow valve pull. In the bathroom is always somewhat difficult to push/pull. Ron

We don't have Oliver's factory solar system and inverter. When away from shore power, use a similar switch mounted in Ollie's battery box with our system. Installed two Epoch 105AH lithium batteries, using up to 2 solar suitcase panels for charging or gen-set on poor solar days. Stole @Snackchaser ideal (Thanks Geoff) converting the TV cable inlet to the Starlink Mini power outlet using a 12V/24V to 48V step up DC to DC converter. Need to install a small interior switch so turning the system on/off can be done from inside Ollie, too.

I bought this in order to use the outdoor plug. It not only allows clearance for the SL brick, but serves as a convenient power switch.

When I installed my wet bolts I started with the Alcans and torqued them to the spec. I was unable to get grease in them unless I loosened the bolts. I did not matter on what pressure was on the wet bolt from fully loaded, slightly load to all pressure unloaded. I was unable to get grease in them unless I took the loosened the nut on the wet bolts. I also noticed that the ez-flex did not move freely when they were torque down, but it did move freely when the wet bolt nuts where loosened up. BTW the hangers on mine where spread apart some without the nuts tight. tightening the nuts cause to bring the hanger ears back to together. I dropped a leaf spring back down. I measured the width of the hangers, the bushings and then the shackles. I added up the hangers and bushings then I measure the depth off the shoulder to the base of the bolt on the Dexters and the measurement was .010 more than what I added up. I did the same thing for the shackles and bushing. I got the same results the Dexter shackle wet bolt was .010 more. I really was surprised they were both .010 longer. I would have thought with the galvanizing on the shackles it would have been different. I measured the old Dexter shackles and the Shackles I made and painted (A whole different story, I covered in the gigantic thread I believe) The width was within a .001. Note I did not measure every shackle, hanger and bushing. I just did the ones on the one leaf I lowered. I decided to use Dexter wet bolts instead of the Alcans . After I did that I was able to get grease in all wet bots. A couple I had to still jack up the trailer to remove some weight to get the 2 wet bolts to take grease, I am OK with that. The ez-flex moves freely now. As for the dexter wet shoulder bolt and smaller thread. The way they designed the bolt all of the downward pressure is on the 9/16 thickness of the bolt. In order for the step down to break you would need a lateral force again the Assembly, or the nuts on the wet bolt being overly tight, then extra lateral force could snap the step down section off. I have heard of rumors that The Dexter bolts have snapped, but I have never read of an occurrence happening on the Olivers. I torque the Dexter wet bolts to 40ft/lbs. Over the last 12K miles they have not loosened up.

No can’t make it unfortunately, I’m way out on the West Coast so it’s a relatively major trip. Yeah have been poring over the threads but not sure what to make of it. Mixing threads a bit sorry but since I’m in a post will put out some thoughts on the wet bolts. This is all eyeball as I don’t have my caliper with me. The spring end bolts with splines have a good <1/4” spacing between the hanging brackets and the spring. So the wet bolts are held in place by torque pressure and (maybe) splines (my splines aren’t doing anything here).On the shackle side there’s no splines but again its a (bit less) torque and nylock holding it together. So that’s it AFAIK, Alcan relies on torque and beefyness. What about end rub? Something I haven’t seen mentioned is that the inner (bronze?) wear bearing at each end of the spring has a protruding shoulder. So, just as it wears against the bolt body, so too on the bold ends with respectively the hanger or the shackle - in both cases greased. I don’t see an issue with this design as it seems eminently sensible. All the wear surfaces are against the bronze bushing both against the bolt and against the hanger or shackle. Torque/nylock keeps it all together. Summarizing Alcan Thick wall radial bronze bushing Prominent protruding bronze rub shoulder against hanger/shackle on all springs Full sized bolts (no step down) Nylock Dexter Thin wall (half size?) radial bushing Inconsistent rub shoulder, from none basically to just a minor extension Step down bolts (why why why size your nut under your bolt? Dunno, I’m new to this stuff but I see nothing but better with Alcan and not seeing anything that bothers me

I had the same issue with the plug and the outside outlet. Just buy one of those cheap 2 prong to 3 prong adapters and it provides enough clearance to use the outside plug. Fortunately I discovered this issue at home while testing my Mini and various mounting spots.

I don't know enough about it to give specifics, other than to say that they did something to avoid the new parts from rubbing against the other parts. @ScubaRx might help explain this better. I don't want to use the wrong terminology. Are you going to be at the rally? We could all get together and have a powwow about this topic!

I just make calls using my phone -- though I've 'enabled wifi calling' as required. It's only dropped like that on two or three occasions, as I mentioned. An extension cord -- I should do that. Would save me from having the window cracked open! :)

Can you tell us here, what specifically? Also what did you learn about the wear?

Can you make regular phone calls or using an app? The calls are likely dropping when one satellite is moving out of range and the next one is taking over. Use any extension cord to use the outdoor outlet vs. an window open, or you could change the outlet cover.

I have read through most of this (long) thread several times and ... I don't follow all of the concerns regarding wear caused by the Alcan parts, though @ScubaRx did a great job helping me understand some of the concerns. Since I had my new Alcan Springs installed this summer, and asked them specifically about some items, I want to say that Alcan has made adjustments based on feedback and experience for their Oliver installations, so people need to be aware that some things are not the same compared to early installs. With all the interest and all the questions, I wish Alcan were coming to the Rally to talk springs! (Hint Hint Oliver Mothership!)

I've used the Mini (with the built-in router, not an extra router) for 2 years and I've never had issues with connections or slow service for internet, though sometimes phone calls drop (but only a handful of locations over more than 12 months of use). I use the cord-out-the-window and satellite on the ground method. My plug won't fit into the Oliver outdoor waterproof plug; it's too bulky to get into the recess.

Wyoming sunsets are glorious.

I just went back and read the early posts from 2016. Interesting some of the names that were on the forum a lot and now are not. Lots of old timers still here though! Mike

10 years and still going strong. Everyone has had adventures to share! Mike

I agree with JD's thoughts and recommendations. The rear gray water valve is a bear to take apart. But it appears that your problem likely is the vent valve up front. I would add that if the valve is not closing there could be two causes. The valve is partially clogged. That can turn into a mess for sure to also deal with. I would approach it this way: Step 1: First try servicing all your cables as in the below DIY. Such a DIY is long overdue for your hull 99. Mine was and it is 342. That process may result in the valve clog getting mushed and then flow down to the dump station. If that does not fix the try Step 2. Step 2: At a dump station, from inside, flood the gray water lines with a LOT of water. Use your pump hot water at both sinks. Then try max flow with the pump and a garden hosed flowing into the bathroom sink. Suggest having a watchful eyed helper. Step 3: Send a garden hose with the end cut off it from the rear of the trailer to see if you can clear it that way. Be sure to open the gray valve outside to clear the pathway. Step 4: Consider getting help with a camera inspection. Hope this helps. GJ DIY - Sanitary Drain Valve Cables.docx

UPDATE: I've got three folks in queue for the burner and two for the main board. Optical board still available. (Expect to pull this in 2-3 weeks, when Nova Kool shows up) Norcold Fridge Parts I'm replacing my defunct Norcold fridge from a 2020 Oliver II build with a Nova Kool. Someone was looking for the Norcold burner, but I can't find the PM or thread. If still interested, reach out. Available - NEW main circuit board and New Optical board, if anyone would like a spare or just needs one. (Ended up needing control panel...unobtainium_ Other parts I should salvage for anyone, that is worth your shipping cost from 78255?

Yes it is and certainly worth the stop even if you "thing" isn't necessarily military vehicles. This is a world class museum located about 7 miles east of Dubois. And, they are expanding (again) - soon to open will be what looks to be a fairly nice motel (on the east side of the museum) and (RV lot?) something on the west side too. Bill

Thread passed 1,000 replies! Congrats to everyone on such a great thread!

@topgun2 Interesting museum in Dubois WY https://nmmv.org/ Bill 313

Box Creek This is one of my favorites! It's a decommissioned Forest Service campground with pit toilet, non-potable water and no dump. Also, it is free. Box Creek is located off Buffalo Valley Road, West of Moran Junction, WY. PM me for GPS. Note that the campground was decommissioned due to bear activity. Even though I've only observed one black bear in camp I never venture outside the Oliver without some type of protection.

In our TX heat this summer, the good old Norcold really struggles. On hot days in the sun, I open/remove the lower hatch and place an electric fan on a small folding table to blow into the lower space kinda aiming the fan up a bit. This is the little table we use. This is the fan we use (we think the Vornado's are worth their premium price). In addition, we have installed computer style fans in the upper section. Our 2019 LEII has a baffle that directs the air flow out of the upper opening. Looks like yours is missing or they did not use them at the time of your build. I've attached a copy of the manual. The "N" code is for no cooling, which can require resetting the power board (see page 24 in manual). Hope this helps! Norcold N41x_ N51x_SM.pdf

Trail Lake Road, East of Dubois, WY Note that this is a free boondocking site with decent pit toilet but no dump or water (other than what is in the lake/stream.