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I may do a bathroom hatch some day but for expediency, I experimented with a quick and simple (and reversible) hack designed to achieve greater heating of the area under the sink while also adding a return vent from the bathroom into the basement to improve heating in the bathroom (My 2020 didn't have a return vent in the bathroom like the newer models). I had also concluded, as have most, that the heat supply vent under the TP was essentially useless because of the long flex-duct run to the bathroom. It never did supply much heat. What I did was temporarily removed the towel bar rack, disconnected the flex duct from the heat vent under the TP holder, dropped the flex duct to the floor (where it heats the area under the sink) and replaced the towel bar rack. That gave me a return vent in the bathroom (without cutting a new hole) that pulls heated air from the cabin into the bathroom and then into the space under the sink, while the loose flex duct also supplies additional heat to the area under the sink. You can tell it is pulling a measurable amount of air through the bathroom into the sink cavity by looking at the dangling TP moving when the furnace is running. I now have two cold weather seasons of experience with this setup and I will never go back. As long as I keep the bathroom door slightly open against the closed twist lock, the bathroom stays warmer than it ever did with the flex duct attached to the vent under the TP. Also, I have noticed that the bathroom feels a little bit warmer when a late night visit to the bathroom is called for, likely due to less radiant heat loss from my (un-shirted) body, due to the warmer surface of the fiberglass surrounding the sink cavity. The additional heat under the sink cavity also improves the heating under the kitchen sink area as the heat from the sink cavity circulates rearward to be recirculated through the furnace.

When we lived in Ohio, we used to use jet snow blowers on the railroad equipped with old military jet engines to clear switches. We have 6 1/2" so far, 25F, getting windy, too. It's a dry fluffy snow.

I don't care! Cold is cold and at 22 degrees being outside in the snow is no fun. On the other hand - a couple of runs down the hill will get the heart pumping. Grab a board and hit the waves for me - please. Bill

RVK - What year is your Ollie? In the "older" models the water inlets are on the streetside away from the furnace and are, therefore, subject to freezing. Unfortunately, if this happens then it is very possible that the check valves might be damaged. Bill

I'm not a golfer - but - isn't it time to go over to the course and hit a few balls? I just got in from using the snow blower on the driveway. Its just about stopped snowing with about 5 - 6 inches on the ground. Current temp is down to 22 degrees. Note that the "normal" high for this date is 54. Time to get out the saucer and take a couple of runs down the hill!🥶 Bill

I asked since this has happened to those running space heaters, but first I've heard of the water inlets freezing when furnace is being used as the sole heat source. The water inlets plumbing is very close to the furnace along the rear wall of the Oliver. When the Oliver interior is kept above 60F, the furnace should be running long and hard enough to keep the rear basement and water inlets well above freezing! Given "the fresh and city water inlets were frozen" they must have water in them and they shouldn't up to the backflow preventers. Good practice is to allow those ends to drain prior to capping them off. They can also fill when check-valves leak. And yes, when plumbing has frozen when full of water the PEX could burst. You will not know until it is thawed, filled again with water and brought up to pressure to test for leaks.

I just started snowing in Augusta, GA now. I would think we will not get much. Hopefully to stick to hide all the filth.

JD: I admit that my living in Hawaii makes me a "Weather Woosie", but the current weather lows at Clemson SC of 15, 15, and 16 degrees are three nights while he was gone each with hard freeze conditions pending. Below cut and pasted for reading enlightenment. So not being winterized while away, with hard freezed inbound, with the furnnace on low..... opening the basement up to the cabin is easy insurance with such conditions inbound. GJ

Absolutely. We've been living in the camper for the past 2 weeks for this trip. We were cozy last night and kept the furnace on as we were winterizing.

Have you been using the furnace?

We have 4 1/2" so far, 11:30AM, just north of Charlotte NC! Photo taken at 11:30AM.

Having spent the last 2 weeks south of the frigid temps and snowstorm of the I95 corridor, we are traveling home. Spent last night near Washington DC. We did not hook up to water and stayed cozy inside. As we were winterizing before heading home this morning the fresh and city water inlets were frozen so that we couldn't get any antifreeze into them. We're on our way home now and will try to thaw them out and try again. Has anyone else run into this issue? Did you have any damage?

For those that don’t want or know how to set this up locally You can also do a google search of just the forms natively with google by starting your search with the forum URL like this. “https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums tire pressure”

At 10:00 am Saturday morning we have about 4.5 inches of snow. Temps are falling - 27 degrees at 7:00am and 24 degrees at 10:00 am. Before you start to laugh - please remember that this is the "sunny" South, home of "Rebels" and Moonshine.😃 Bill

I'm in your court on this one for sure. Yes it was a less than optimal design. Ultimately everything fails if the use is pushed beyond the design limits. I think this is the case for this young couple. The fact that THEY INSEALLED the system from Alcan concerns me. If so, was Alcan advised of the end weight of their vehicle during the purchase or was it a "Send me XXX" and I'll install it transaction. More "Paul Harvey Questins"..... Crazy Horse has warned me about flaming arrows at times seeking me out.... but I can assure you that I don't intentionally try to be such a target. Here is my response to the couple left on their comments section of Youtube. GJ

Putting plastic between the conductors does it for me. That's not a safety feature, it's a bad design.

After seeing this, me too! Why are the leads bolted together? Why were they all loose? Can’t tell unless you invalidate warranty by sawing the case open!

You couldn't pay me enough to ever put these in my Ollie.

Nice, well done. I like your solution much better than ours. We used up a left over roll of thin aluminum sandwich foam insolation purchased for cold weather window inserts.

Beat me to it. Unbeliveable

Will Prowse update.

In light of the wintery weather all over the south, this is a great idea! I've always just tucked a folded blanket against the hull, but this is thinner, and probably just as effective.

Please remember the context of this thread, re leaving the trailer with plumbing ready, weekends in Clemson SC. It’s not about long storage in cold climates! Average January low in Clemson is 36F and in Prescott AZ it’s 22F (it’s not Phoenix up here)! Average Jan highs in both towns are in the low 50s. The good weather in Clemson SC is certainly more mild than in Prescott AZ. Based on the 36F average, 2 of 3 winter weekends in Clemson will stay above freezing. I still contend @Hoosier’s original plan is good as was written!

Yep! I suspect many OTT owners would like a rubber backed woven vynal floor cover. Suggest you consider asking this to be a new thread under Mods. GJ

Readers should be aware that you live in AZ. And equally important you generally are in relative proximity of your Ollie should weather turn terrible. Those who have their trailers where hard freezes HAPPENl and can't always get quick response to their Ollie easily..... may want to consider your approach as not being ideal for their location. But for your situtaiton it is easy and effective. GJ