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There is some concern that the steel rod threads will "eat" the aluminum slot. A smooth rod of steel with colors or washers and cotter pins would likely serve you best. GJ

Good observation. Any chance that the pipe and faucet had been hard frozen? That could account for both issues.

Interesting change. Makes sense to have 2 vs. 3 inlets given the valving can provide the same 3-way functionality. What seems odd to me is the newly-chosen location of the City Water inlet. Water inlets should both be on the service side, the street side of the trailer. I often use our 10 ft hose to connect to City Water when a campsite has a water hookup. With this configuration I’d need to get out the 25 ft hose. Too bad they didn’t keep the two inlets together as they’ve always been and deleted the rear inlet. I'm also thankful to have all 3 jack switches in one location up front. It would be painful to level the trailer activating switches from 2 locations. A lot of walking back and forth, and the second location being behind the rear basement door is not at all helpful. Some changes are not deemed “improvements” by all! 😎

Great post and thank you Cindy! Below is a long version with a couple of alternate RV products than the Super Walment Center Super Tech version that many of us have been using. Owners: If there are other less expensive sources please advise all. Have we seen any long term damage in our OTT's? (I have used it for 9 winters and have not experiencned any). If none by others then maybe the topic is over-blown. GJ RV ANTIFREEZE (Keep).docx

Did they remove the pressure regulator from new units?

Wow I'll need to digest your post a bit. By chance will our Pre-2020 trailers best use Sharkbite fittings and Pex - B pipe? With zero plumbing leaks in 9 seasons, I'm think for our 2027 season that it is for sure time to get to the Big Box store to acquire a small stock pile of the proper fittings. Here is a starting point for discussion: (Assuming all are 1/2" sized.) Half Stick of Pex-B pipe (One Each) Female Swivel adaptor (See above, Two Each) Coupling 90 and 45 degree elbows (2 Each) Support fixture for fixing the Pex-B pipe (See above, One Each) Stainless Steel Hose Clamps? (Needed? Number?) What above is not needed or is not listed? thanks, GJ

Great suggestion, as Sharkbite fittings require no tools. NOW I plan to invest in a couple of 1/2" Sharkbite fittings, for the next long trip. A "heads up" with regard to the difference between Pex A and Pex B : The photo below includes both "Apollo Pex" and "Pex-A" fittings. The bags labeled "Apollo Pex" contain barbed fittings which are also known as "Pex B." Note that the barbed portion of the fitting that is inserted into the Pex pipe is slightly different on the Apollo Pex fittings than the "Pex-A" fittings. They are not interchangeable. They use different pipe and different connection methods. Pex B uses a metal crimp ring with crimping tool, and is commonly sold at hardware stores. Pex-A (also known as Uponor, Wirsbo or Aquapex) is less common. Pex-A uses plastic expansion rings, not crimp rings. Pex-A requires an expansion tool, which temporarily expands the plastic ring, which ring is then quickly slipped over the Pex-A pipe+fitting, then shrinks within about 30 seconds to create a tight seal. I plumbed my entire home with Pex-A with the plastic expansion rings, using a cordless expansion tool. But, my Oliver Elite II was plumbed with Pex B using crimp rings. My Pex-A fittings left over from plumbing my home are not compatible with the Pex B pipe and fittings in my Elite II. So, when purchasing spare parts with which to repair the plumbing in your Oliver, avoid anything labeled "Pex-A". Or, just buy the more expensive brass Sharkbite fittings, because they do not require installation tools. And, when buying pipe for your Oliver, be sure to buy Pex B, not Pex-A, pipe.

For those without a PEX crimping tool, a repair with a comparable all-brass sharkbite fitting is arguably easier than a PEX fitting. Mine broke last week and that is what I used to repair it. It took me about 5 minutes.

I hope to be at that point within a year or less.

I see the source of the confusion now. There are only two water inlets on the OTT-2025 vs three inlets on my OTT-2022, and the rear inlet and city water inlet are actually the same connection. As I mentioned earlier, the fresh water inlet and rear inlet are not the same. The attached diagram from the OTT 2025 manual illustrates this more clearly, showing that the rear inlet and city water inlet are one and the same.

Mossemi, Providing the electronic manual for the OTT-2025 should help. From that manual, the rear inlet appears to be in the same location has my OTT-2022 model. Cut and pasted from the OTT-2025 manual.

There is another valve configuration for winterizing through the boondock inlet. The diagram is pasted under the curbside bed plate. It is not in the 2023 manual even though it says it is.

I aired out the Ollie overnight and the alarm is off and that pretty little green light is bright and shiny.

I wanted to alert you guys that when you winterize the antifreeze might set of your CO2 alarm. We never had it happen before but we sure did yesterday. I reset it a bunch of times and kept scratching my head. Cindy found something via the Google about it. The antifreeze has alcohol in it and can set off the alarm. I just found these other little tidbits about RV Antifreeze - Drying Rubber Seals: Repeated long-term exposure to high-concentration ethanol can dry out or degrade rubber O-rings, pump diaphragms, and toilet blade seals over time. Taste & Odor: Ethanol leaves a distinct alcohol smell and can impart a persistent chemical taste to PEX lines and vinyl hoses that takes extensive flushing to remove in the spring. Flammability: Because of the grain alcohol content, some low-cost ethanol-blend antifreezes are potentially flammable in concentrated liquid or vapor forms when exposed to an open flame.

I’m pretty sure there was a change on the city water, fresh water and the boondocking inlet ports around 2024 or 2025 I do not remember the details and I am not a subject matter expert

I have been to several COE sites - always top notch. Glad to hear the trend continues.

The Apex is powered by 48V system and was designed to add 1-2 solar awnings. You could ask OTT for a schematic showing your electrical system (with integration of the awning panels). The solar charger (SC) you install should have 48V output but for some reason OTT advertises the 400W rooftop solar on the Apex is 24V. New panels must be on an independent SC. I would trace everything down and create your own system drawing. In our older hull, I had to pull every wire to fully learn the system (not good when under warranty)! 🤣 In the Elite we have 12VDC and 120VAC systems. The Apex has 48VDC and 120VAC systems and it must have a 48|12 DC-DC converter. The 48V system must be stepped down to 12V to run lights and other 12V accessories. You should locate this step-down converter for general purposes. I would start at the batteries. See how many wires are connected there, follow them into the hull to see where they are connected and where is your main fuse. A new solar charger must connect to +/- battery somewhere. The other active Apex thread shows many pictures and some show unused terminals labeled "battery." I would encourage you in that adding our Solar Suitcase was the easiest major electrical upgrade I've made to our Oliver. I've attached my upgrade link here for example. Of course, you have a 48V system so system components may differ but the basics are the same. Re Starlink, there are some complex installations and some who just plug it into an outlet and lay it on the ground! 🤣 From the HOME page of the Forum, search for "Starlink" for many discussions.

#1218 near Elijay Georgia at COE Doll Mountain Campground put this one on your list as it is fantastic It’s a 13 on a scale 1-10 We missed the Rally due to Spousal units part time beach gig schedule. She was making F250 $$$ 😎 Headed to the Smokey mountains

Yeah John, thank you. She’s pretty again and our 11-year-old Oliver is also more capable than ever! 😎 Not a chance we would trade our newly upgraded and restored Oliver for a brand NEW 2027 Apex or Elite. We are better optioned than either new model. It would be less dependable without going through everything again, and way too much trouble to do so.

@Brian H. Reading this attachment is your is your homework assignment and after completing this task, you should be a SME or Subject Matter Expert on 2025 Oliver LE2 plumbing.😉 Mossey OTT_2025_Elite_II_Owners_Manual-compressed.pdf

The NEC, and maybe others, require a service disconnect for appliance maintenance. A plug is the cheapest way to provide a disconnect for service. GJ

Thanks, but I was not providing any comments about all the changes. Your input on some of them is spot on though. I would not swap my Ollie for a 9 year used Apex. Just way too many systems that a "normal" person could ever maintain. Violates my KISS and easily maintainable preferences. OH, and that brand new looking trailer someone parked at your home can't possibly be the same one that was the chalked-out one I saw before. LOL. Basically saying WOW the ceramic coating makes your 2017 look better than new! GJ

@Wayfinder Chris, are those panhead screws used to mount the return air vent grill for the heater? I would be on my 3rd box of band-aids if that was my Ollie! Mossey

You might also want to consider throwing in a 2 to 3 foot section of pex - just in case. Bill

Dennis, I made our own Towel Rack from you plans and I really must THANK YOU for GREAT detailed instructions. My wife and I just returned from the 2026 Oliver Rally in Lake Gunther and we had many people ask about our drying rack. I made sure to let them know that I pulled it from the OTT Forum. I only made one modification... I shortened your original design enough to store it under our Twin Bed (see attached). Thanks again for posting your plans.