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At the Oliver Rally I plan to put out various parts for free that may fit other Oliver setups as I’ve bought many replacement parts (like stove grommets) that aren’t for our version by mistake.

That looks like the knockout panel on the furnace is missing . You can seal it with silver furnace tape or find a sheet metal piece to put in place. Please post the pix to oliver as a service ticket!

Is it normal to have this large furnace opening blowing under the curbside bed? We seem to be getting excessive hot air blowing out our kitchen drawers and under the bed. The rest of the flex duct looks fine. (The photo shows the large furnace opening directly behind the under bed access port.) Thanks!

About 9 years ago, on the start of my second with my still "new" Ollie I stopped into a donut shop in Rock Springs, WY. Upon getting back to the Ollie I noticed that my fridge wasn't working. Luckily, there was an RV repair shop just down the street that agreed to help me even though they were VERY busy. Fifteen minutes later I was back on the road but not until I had a chance to ask just how they fixed the problem so fast. The tech told me that bugs, dust, and debris of all sorts can land on or "foul" several things in the burner area. The solution for this is to carry a can of compressed air in order to simply blow that stuff away even without having to remove any parts. The only warning he had for doing this was to never direct that canned air flow into the burner jet orifice. So, given the dirt roads I often use I've needed that compressed air more than once - don't leave home without it! Bill p.s. it is best to purchase a can while at home - there are several locations I've found where compressed air (if they have it) is held behind locked doors. This is apparently due to some people inhaling what comes out of these cans in order to get "high", therefore, local ordinances have restricted sales.

Geoff, Did you end up putting a screw into the "Connecting Collar" coming out of the rear of the Truma heater and the start of the rigid duct (180° turn). Or replace it with a "straight out" " not beveled" connecting collar. I found the design of the existing connecting collar had a slight beveled towards the inside. I believe this is to allow insertion around it of the flex ducting, which has little weight to it. but for heavier rigid ducting and the heavier flex ducting there is for lack of a better word more “Torque” on that connecting collar. My rigid 180 as shown kept sliding off no matter how tight the 4” clamp was cranked down. So, I went back to a heavier (than supplied by Oliver in 2020) duty flex tubing. I even had the rigid and heavier flex on the floor to reduce torque, and it would still come off with the slightest of movement. I liked everything else i saw and it makes sense. So, I did "phase I" of re-ducting. Maybe the re-design will be adapted at factory assembly. B~Out,

I found replacements that work on both size grommets on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CVQR21J7?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Your last camping trip once again proves the old adage 'camping is a participation sport'. I appreciate you sharing your solutions to the adversity you faced! Well done, Mossey

I do not know who said this in a post about 6 months ago, but when I read it I was running out of canned air in the garage (I only use it on fine stuff like electricronics, other wise I use my air compressor). So I bought 2 cans, one for the old and one for the garage. I did see small hose about 1/8 inch with a valve on it to reduce flow that hooks up to a standard air compressor hose. but I didn't purchase it. might be nice for home instead of a can. But the can is nice and portable for working on stuff inside the house.

Congratulations on overcoming all those issues and continuing with your trip. You’re going to like the Epoch batteries. Enjoy the Rockies, there’s so much to see and do! Mike

Ours has two sizes of grommets, double the trouble!

Never leave home without that can of compressed air if you have anything that has a burner and igniter in the Ollie. Shame that you had so many "issues" but love the way you attacked each "issue" in order to get/keep things working. Not so bad on those AGM's - they really didn't owe you a lot. You're going to love the Lithiums and the extra power. Bill

I'm sure that the 48V system, battery capacity, and solar upgrades are great. Oliver is really good at this, I think. If it doesn't have a vastly upgraded suspension, though, it's basically a pass for me. I don't know why they wouldn't do that - those kinds of suspensions are standard on off-road trailers, but there was no mention of it in that short video, so I'm not holding my breath. If you're building an off-grid trailer IMO you have to have an off-road trailer. That would mean something like independent or air suspension, big beefy dual shock absorbers, coil springs, and an articulating hitch. I don't think they need much a lift but a little bit might help. (I just got the rear end stuck backing up, but traction mats took care of that). I would also want them to ditch the black water, only provide composting toilet, more fresh water, and a bigger fridge.

Well I had an interested 19 day trip to Yosemite, Arches, Canyonlands and dinosaur monument National Parks. I had 4 different failures. I hadn't used my truck in a month before the trip and I have an alarm system in the truck the uses a lot of energy communicating with me and the factory and it drew the batteries in the truck way down. I tried starting the truck a few days before the trip and the batteries were dead. I recharged the batteries and they settled down to 12.6 volts after the charge instead of 12.8v. Just for safety sake I took a 660 Amp jumper battery along, but never had a problem again with the truck batteries the whole trip. Now the AGM batteries in the Oli are just over 6 years old. I haven't had any problems with them, in fact last year we are out for more than 60 day total boon docking on them over half the time and they did great. This trip out they failed the first night at 3AM with an alarm going off after using 34 Amp/hours. I was down to 10.4 volts from a full charge.. I was using a CPAP and the furnace was on set at 57 degrees. I isolated and checked all 4 batteries. Their volts were within 0.1 volts total so it wasn't one battery taking them all down, they are all just tired. I was planning the Epoch upgrade next year, but Oli forced my hand. Luckily I packed the jumper battery and hooked it into the system at night and recharged during the day. We went down to 11.9 volts in the morning heating the olive oil back up to 65 degree to take the chill off. No more alarms going off. I figured that the jumper was 5 years old and was the price of a good lead acid battery. So if I fried the jumper on the trip it was not a big loss. The jumper battery is still running good and holding a charge. Here is the jumper batter hooked into the system. That took care of the first failure. I had been using the heated truck mirror at Yosemite. The last day at Yosemite they blew a fuse and I didn't realize it until we were a 200 miles away from the park and my auxiliary diesel tank pump wouldn't work (same fuse). We got to our destination with a 1/8 in the main tank. I shotgunned the problem after blowing a couple of fuses and found it was the mirror heaters. I disconnect the heaters from the circuit and then we could pump fuel from the auxiliary tank. I will find the short this winter when I have the time to disassemble the dash and doors to trace it down. That night we pulled in and my wife tells me the Fridge would not work on gas. O' no what next. It was late that night and we had hook ups that night, so I waited until morning. When I looked in the compartment everything was very dusty. So I start by physically cleaning out the lower compartment. with a windex and paper towels. After everything dried, I reset all the spade connector in the compartment. Next I took the shield off around the burner and wipe off around the burner and then used canned air to blow out the burner from the air intake holes then the outside of the burner and the rest of the compartment. I tested it out and the first 2 clicks I heard the 2 relays into the electric box click, then the gas solenoid click the flame started on the first click of the ignitor. Nice full blue flame and no flickering or yellw/orange colors. Wow was I happy! OK 3 failures, I'm done now for the trip. Right! Well not quite I had one more minor failure; I bought these white/Blue LED lights for the interior lighting, and one failed the next to the last day of the trip. It stayed on with the blue light. The only way to turn it off was turn off the main switch controlling all the lights. I am now planning a couple weeks of maintenance and upgrades to the trailer and truck. Planning on attacking the Colorado Rockies this summer during the hottest time of the year with lots of long hard climbs and some boon docking . I ordered battery wire and lugs to make cables and i'm going to order Epochs on Monday. I will do a fan upgrade to the fridge, repack axle bearing and check brakes, again. We still have the original brakes with 23K miles on the Oli , just want to make sure every thing is working correctly and checking wear on drums and shoes. Will also fix a few small items on the Oliver. I also have regular maintenance on the truck and the boost is down little on the turbo, and oil temp is up little. So I am taking the truck in to get the turbo boots checked for leaks and the oil heat exchanger replaced on the old Ford 7.3 engine. I know all of this info does really belong in this thread, but I did want to start a new thread about thing that happen. This is the first real major failures since I bought the Oli besides the window tracks overflowing with water.

If you go to the blue bar at the top of your browser (where the search function is), next to “Forums” is “Activity”, if you click that then on the bar just underneath on the far right you will see “Staff”. Click that and you’ll see the moderators and the administrators. Mike

I had up graded all my touch lights with the 7.3" over the kitchen and the 4.75" for the beds and table lighting. I had 22 days on the flight and I had one of the 7.3 lights over the kitchen fail. I touched the light to turn it off and it would not turn off. I only had 22 travel days on these lights. I wasn't real happy. I will replace the it again with the same thing only because we light the low light of the blue. If it happens again , I will try another solution.

Hiya, I've sent a message to JWalmsley. If that fails I'll try Jason directly. Of course you could reach out to Jason, too. 🙂 Thanks, best Tim

Perhaps THAT is just one of the reasons that Oliver has also upgraded the cooktop. Bill

Well------- Neither are we! Hopefully they will forward your comments on to Oliver Management. If you have any doubts about that, please forward your comments on to Jason Essary: jessary@olivertraveltrailers.com

Well, after opening a case with OTT tech support I received and answer indicating they were not involved with Forum management. Happy to PM the moderators were I to learn who they are. Thanks Tim

Thanks! Sort of a rinky dink stove top compared to other offerings on the market now days. Have thought about buying and installing a different unit which would require copious amount of cutting into the FG countertop which is not appealing. Good to know these are replaceable.

Had a tricky time finding grommets that fit the hole for our burner bases on our Dometic PI 8022 2 burner in our Hull 505 EII Added them to the outfitters guide here: Oliver Outfitters Guide Cheers, Craig & Rose Hull 505

I have the same setup. The factory had set the low voltage cutoff to 11.1, but their documentation specifies 12.1. I assumed it was an error and bumped to 12.1. Previously I could run two appliances simultaneously but now only one. I’m guessing that 11.1 might be stressing the battery Your LBCO was 11.5? That’s odd. At any rate I’m not sure that’s your problem, sounds like a different error condition. Also I recommend calling Xantrex customer support directly, they’re GREAT. 1-800-670-0707 The guy I talked to knew exactly my problem and finished my sentence for me. Then proceeded to tell me some hilarious stories 😅

Here’s my solution External to the trailer so no winterizing issues. UV plugs into the exterior power socket.

The UVC purification faucet comes with a 120VAC/12VDC adapter that plugs in to the faucet. It doesn't come with a separate 12VDC cable. You can either buy a DC5521 connector or you could cut it off from the 12VDC side of the supplied power adapter. Apparently Blutech doesn't think the unit needs to have an On/Off switch even though it draws a small current when on standby. I didn't take pictures during the installation, and now everything is hidden from view. Since we don't have a second awning, I installed a power switch where the streetside awning switch would normally go. I tapped into the refrigerator 12VDC power supply, which is already on a 30 amp fuse, and added an inline 3 amp fuse for the UVC. The wire connections are simple, but routing them like I did requires removal and replacement of the microwave oven. Our cartridge water filters and softener are mounted in our TV, a Sprinter van. Winters are mild in San Antonio. I don't bother with the pink stuff, which shouldn't be used with the filtration system. I use compressed air to clear water from the lines of both the TV filters and the Oliver. If we're expecting unusually cold weather, it's easy enough to remove the softener and filters from the TV. At the time I installed it, Blutech only offered the UVC filter as a faucet. Now they have an inline filter as well as some packages that include a UVC filter with their cartridge filters. I think their inline filter would be hard to fit under the kitchen sink, but it wouldn't require cutting a hole in the countertop. I like the dedicated faucet with UVC filter since it only runs for drinking water, so the 2000 hour UV LED should last longer than if all the kitchen cold water is run through it. Steve