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The Nev-R Lube bearings work like a pair of conical bearings pressed into a case to keep the grease in on a "permanent" basis (expect on average a 5-year life). You cannot pack these bearings with new grease to prolong their life. As far as bearing maintenance, I already wrote a post showing removal and replacement:

Interesting trip report! I read it a week or so ago over on fiberglassrv. Thanks for sharing. Mike

Thanks for posting those. Have a number of his videos but not the one with the bearing buddy what ever that is.

I never had a FB account until 5 years ago when a boss decided it was an easy way to curcimvent manage rules dealing with unions. So she posted al sort of changes happening at work on a private FB Group. The Hospital also had thier own FB group which was part info, part PR propaganda. I changed departments and removed them. I do use Marketplace, sometimes good/ many times bad (still on craigslist). I have been on the FB Oliver group. There is not a lot of structure to FB and does not lend intensely to the structure our forums does. The only thing that is real positive for the Oliver FB group is that it is the really the only way to list an Oliver for sale or parts for sale to people that are truly interested in Olivers since Oliver made regulation changes to the Forum.

I repack original bearings and replace seals every two years on our Ollie's original 5200lb axles, we don't tow Ollie as many miles as Mike & Carol. Bearing repack gives me the opportunity to inspect brakes, drums, bearings and races. I try not to let trailer hubs get hot while towing by using engine braking towing down mountain grades. Here's two videos by Trailer Smith, Dexter Nev-R Lube and Bearing Buddy VS. EZ Lube-What's The Difference:

Update. We got the Sierra EV last August, and picked up the Oliver at the factory in March. You can read a trip report here of our 6k mile trip https://www.fiberglassrv.com/threads/meet-sparky-the-electric-oliver.2190937/ There were some sharp opinions here about EV's, you can read the details over there that it far exceeded my expectations. Zero problems. We drove for hours through wilderness with no infrastructure and boondocked - not an issue (somebody here had some weird theory about that). Even I had trouble believing how well it worked in these conditions, in fact it liked the (slower speed) backcountry better than, say I40 in a windstorm. It's the regen you see, but surprisingly it regenerated (captured) more energy than I'm used too - all that trailer energy too, backcountry across the Sierras, it just gained so much energy on the way down from the peaks. It just drove, and drove and drove ... not to mention, while the 'generator symphony' would start up in some campgrounds, we silently topped off from the truck. I've towed plenty with ICE, and between Supercruise, the torque, the power, the spare campground power, the silence, I'll say EV towing is now better than ICE towing. That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it, but to each his own. But enough of the drive train - who really cares? Pick your poison. The trouble was all with the Ollie. Us getting used to it that is. The composting toilet took getting the hang of (you can read the details over there). The Xantrex was a bit of a learning curve, because there's so many generations. The present generation can't be reset if you put a bad setting in. But the tech support at Xantrex was great, it was easily fixed by simply plugging into shore power. Oliver owners are indeed very friendly in person, but Steve if you're out there, sorry we couldn't chat but ya gotta appreciate, it was getting dark and the we just got the thing and needed to set up! 😅 Mark and Sandy - enjoyed talking to you, hope you're making good use of the carrier. Finally, of interest to this group; I have precise information about the Oliver aerodynamics. It isn't marketing fluff! In good conditions (no wind etc) I get a 35% towing loss @60 mph, this is phenomenal. And reminder; towing loss has NOTHING to do with the drive train. It's exactly the same for EV versus ICE. So you piston pounders are also getting this same loss. Otherwise, we love our Ollie. Even my skeptical family. Sure bigger would be great, but that's a slippery slope.

There is an excellent YouTube tutorial by the Trailer Smith illustrating the difference between never lube, easy lube and traditional bearings. I would encourage you to look up this video as he tears each one apart and explains his takes in depth. I also like the Husky pad, keep three of them around and one always comes with me on trips.

Nevermind. I found the answer about two pages before this one:

Can someone explain to me (with pictures and drawings if needed) how the Neverlube bearing system works. Being more of a tekkie and less of a motorhead, I have understood that axle bearings are - 1 an Inner race, and 2, an outer race on a common shaft. with shoulder bracing against inner movement of the inner race, and a nut preventing outer movement of the outer race. Someone recently posted on this forum that the Timken Set 49 was a direct replacement for the Neverlube. Price difference being "¼ of" with Timken being the cheapest for once. I have looked at the Timken Set 49, and it is ONE outer bearing sleeve with two inner races. Maybe 2" long. I cannot begin to guess how that works. Please help the mentally challanged.

I presented an almost exact idea to Seabiscuit at the 2025 OTT Ralley. You need to add a screened bottom to allow fumes to sink down and out and provide up draft ventilation. I personally would keep side penetrations closed unless running the generator. Also top to shield rain unless running generator. The Honda generators are weather protected.... not weather proof. Found that out the hard way.... You may want to give them a call to see where they are/are on the idea presented to them at the rally. GJ

Is the trailer level? When we park, we level and keep the front 1/2"+ higher. This allows full usage of the FWT and our heads are just higher than our feet in bed. If the front is a couple inches low, water from the kitchen drain would flow forward.

We're good with just our basket up front since we only store a fire ring up there, don't carry a generator. There are others here who have given this much thought and those who have installed front boxes. One thing that stands out to me re your idea and drawings is the LP doghouse cover. On our older hull there is just enough room to replace the cover getting it by the jack head. It seems to come off easier than it goes back on. You have likely not removed that cover too many times yet. I would take it on and off a couple times and give some thought to required clearance. Have fun on your 2-month trip! 😎

Sorry Orca, those would be my axles! I got really lucky. Tim and Lew got Dexter to replace them on a 2-week rush order, refund my $200 shipping charge which was very reasonable to start with, and keep the first set of axles too! They shipped the second set right, strapped to a pallet 9 ft long! I'd like sell the second set of axles, but I only know of one hull besides ours that has D35 SC=50" axles. That owner wasn't either interested or trusting of half price axles. The first set, although damaged in shipping really only need one brake baking plate and new bearing caps to be whole again. I could fix them up like new in a few hours, but instead I have replacement parts for life! 😎 (Pictures of damage and replacement sets. Notice the difference in the skids!)

Sorry, JD.....I need my anchor 🙂

Be careful, John! I'm not walking on the roof for nothing! I installed a new A/C (twice), removed the Dish and other items, did fiberglass repair and all necessary cleaning without being on top. Though I do realize you're fulltime in your Oliver and don't carry scaffolding with you! 🤣 If we didn't have the awning, rooftop maintenance would be easier. On the awning side, I can't quite reach over it to top center. On the streetside, without an awning, standing on our scaffolding I can reach some past top center. Another good reason to DELETE the awning! 😎

$3,239, Ouch ! Getting the Alcan stuff on order was easy. Not so much the D52 axles. Lew won't drop ship axles anymore since FedEx damaged that one set. I do not blame him at all, I would not either. Problem was that Washington State does NOT have a Dexter Branch, only Dexter distributors who seem to want to order the axles themselves rather than be shipping forwarders. Got back to Lew. He is going to have Dexter ship the axles to the Wilsonville, Oregon Dexter branch and I am going to have Oak Harbor Freight lines pick them up and deliver them to my installer in Mount Vernon, WA. About $375... Heck I would pay $300 just to not have to drive through Seattle traffic (twice). Now we wait for Dexter.

To all of you seasoned, innovative Oliver owners... I would love to get feedback and insights on a tongue box design I'm working on. We've only owned our Oliver since November 2023 and we've camped about five weeks total so far and really love our LEII. We're planning a two + month trip this summer and I'm struggling with a versatile box design for the front. I've seen the product made by Seabiscuit and it's very well made. I would like to take it a step further and enclose the tongue jack and divide the box into a bottom section for a Honda 2200 generator and a removeable top shelf for chocks, blocks and other lightweight items. Please take a look at my sketches and let me know what you think. Thank you all in advance for your feedback. I really enjoy discovering all the creative mods posted here on the forum. FRONT BOX DESIGN.pdf

If you extend it, you have a safety net.

Having been up on the roof a few times I will say I only walk on the side with the awning 🙂

Frankly - I'm surprised that there are that many with the second awning. Bill

Looking at new trailers in the lot at the mother ship. There are 7 of them. 3 have the second awning. Not exactly scientific, but maybe that gives some indication of the overall popularity of the option?

All good questions and statements Bill. None should apply to her situation as I understand it. Some how I think she forgot to drain grey tank, or some how left water on trying to get the water to heat up. Where is the location of your drains & vents? My old rig is not like that as I'm aware of. UPDATE: OH, THIS MUST BE UNDER THE BATHROOM SINK. I have not been under mine yet. Also, here toilet would overflow when she opened the foot valve if the black tank got that full. She's never used the flush out yet. I'll be showing her that and other things in a couple weeks (training).

Are they sure it’s kitchen water? Are they adding water to the black tank using the No Fuss Flush fitting? If they are flushing the black tank and have let it get too full and the shower drain valve is closed the water from the black tank can back up in the black tank vent and flow over into the sink drain and rise up through the shower drain and fill the shower pan and could actually overflow the pan and flood the trailer floor. Do not rely on the tank level display when diagnosing water level and drainage problems, or any other time really. I apologize for the “ands” and the run-on sentence. Bill

Yeah, I've figured out once that I did not open it when my feet were getting wet while at the bathroom sink. 😜

Seems the problem was that the gray tank was full but for others: On older trailers (mine for example, a 2020) you might have a manual gray tank valve. Pulled out is open allowing the gray tank to vent as water from kitchen sink flows in. If it is closed (pushed in) then water could back up into the shower drain if you run a lot of water in the sink. Also, if you leave the valve open while driving down the road, then gray water could slosh up onto the floor from the shower drain.