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The Cabela’s campground in Sidney is a convenient stopping spot! Easy walk over to Cabela’s too.

Top half is done (plus the roof from the previous week). That was brutal, don't attempt unless you're fit. Once you start coating it goes fast on a schedule, ideally you'd have two people working it, but I pulled it off. Just three mistakes, small spots where the coating wasn't properly wiped off, I'll adjust those later. I'd recommend the following approach, do the roof in one go, the top half including the midline belt, then the bottom half in either two steps (e.g. curb/street) or all at once. Splitting at the midline belt is an ideal seam. The top half should be done at once ideally - tough but its the most visible and takes a lot of wear. So you want to apply the coating and second coat overlapping before it's cured so it can form a seamless matrix. The bottom half has a natural split with the spare and propane housing so can be done in two parts, I'll do that next weekend. So the worst is behind me ... We get coastal fog rolling in and keeping morning dew off the first 24 hours at least is really important. Fortunately with our trailers its easy, I got a 20'x10' tarp which covers it and overlaps the side by about a foot. stitch each side with some good hold down rope, and I tied microfiber cloths at the grommets to prevent wear if there's any breeze. The AC/solar/etc and awnings act as standoffs, ideally you also have the streetside. With this you don't need to have a garage to cure, as long as you can work in the shade with little wind. Fortunately my parking spot at the lot fits the bill. Anyhow, I bought the 30' new RV kit but the 25' or 20' would have worked, I'll have at least a full bottle left over to do the truck. I'll also do the works on this trailer, awnings, solar, AC, frame and underbody, why not? btw ... this graphene coating is like having armor. It's unbelievable stuff, I tried buffing a mistake out and it was not easy. It creates this incredibly hard and smooth coating, it ain't foolin around ...

I am surprised so many have had issues with the battery going dead. I have had the same battery for 2 years. There is a setting in the app to tell it to sleep if left on. Maybe that is off for most people? I often forget to turn mine back off after leveling but it always shuts off. There is also a setting to turn on when it detects motion. Make sure that is set to off or it will be one for hours while driving!

About noon today on Interstate 80 I was headed East and a white truck towing a white LE 2 was headed West near Laramie, WY. And, a wonderful couple paid for dinner tonight as both of us are overnighting at Cabela's, Sidney, NB. 2 in less than 12 hours!

Your picture is exactly what we’ve got. I’ve replaced both the back flow and the pressure restrictor. I’ve thought about removing the restrictor, too. It’s not causing low pressure now, but if it does….

Sounds like this mod is the way to go - as with so many others, I'm frustrated our Levelmate pro battery being dead when we go to use it. If you still have extra converters I'd love to take you up on your offer.

Thermodynamics PVT (pressure-volume-temperature) was my worse subject of the engineering core! 🤣 They are dependent variables within a system. Most of the time, I just fill our Fresh Tank anyway. I've also upgraded to a REMCO US-made variable speed water pump, bumped up slightly to 65 PSI and 3.4 GPM ratings (OEM Mexico Shurflo was 55 PSI and 3.0 GPM). PEX is rated at 100 PSI for hot water, 160 PSI cold. I don't worry so much given these numbers, but want decent pressure and flow on request. When you get a chance, see if you have what's shown in my picture, both back-flow and restrictors on the two incoming water lines.

Doesn't a restrictor just reduce flow? It wouldn't prevent a pressure buildup in the system when water isn't flowing. If that's the case, it won't protect your plumbing if connected to a high pressure source (unless you left a faucet open). But that does describe the behavior perfectly. When we open a faucet, we initially get normal flow (from accumulated pressure), then the flow drops significantly. Also explains why we get normal pump pressure.

Good idea, Dennis! It irks me that Truma doesn't support sales of repair parts for DIY, only OEM installations. "They don't sell a listed part in the US market!" This is just not right. I'm very happy after reading 100+ posts re Truma issues (mostly their HWH) that we have no Truma products in or on our hull. It would be good to have a planned upgrade path vs. waiting until you get stuck. There are posts here on replacing the Truma hot water heater but I do not recall any re the furnace. Based on a quick look, their furnace design is not standard to Dometic and other RV furnaces so installation could be tricky. And from what I've read here, the ducting may also be different. Our hull came with a Dometic furnace and after two complaints of it "being noisy" on a second 2020 visit to OTT service, the work order stated, "Replace Dometic furnace with Atwood." After replacing some worn flexible duct work with rigid, deleting the underbed duct, adding an return duct filter and basement vents, our furnace is relatively quiet and has always run well (knock on forehead)! 🤣

Yes, there is a restriction to both the incoming City Water and Fresh Water lines. OTT plumbing diagrams only show the backflow prevention devices, labeled "check valves" in the plumbing diagrams. However, they also install flow restrictors. See basement picture rear of our hull. I can't be certain if this is true for all hulls, but take a look along the rear wall of your basement. This slows down the City Water and slows down how long it takes to fill the Fresh Tank! It's been on my long list to remove both restrictors while cleaning the check valves, but like you, we use City Water about 1 in 10 days camping. We have also used the water pump to boost internal water flow when necessary. What you're doing, using an actual pressure regulator vs. a flow restrictor, on the incoming City Water is the right way to do it, but given an inline restrictor, you're slowing down GPM 2 times. I have never used a pressure regulator knowing flow restrictors are built-in. I use a filter for desert water but don't bother with good mountain water. We do not drink water from our fresh tank anyway. I drain the Fresh Tank 1-2 times a year and bleach it every couple of years.

@Tom and Doreen, that's what I figured about the pump. Thanks!

I upgraded to the 2 5/16" ball while still using the Andersen WDH, a new Andersen 2 5/16" ball and friction cone for about $90. Later after the Alcan upgrade I stopped using the Andersen all together. I now use a simple HD ball mount that I had previously. It's worth repeating. Do NOT use the Andersen ball mount without the WDH or at least place the lock pin below, otherwise there is only gravity and a circlip keeping the ball cone in place.

I have the same issue. The plumbing diagram in my owners manual shows no intended restriction on the city line but my city water pressure is not as good as when I use the water pump. ....You can activate the water pump and boost pressure when you're connected to city water however the water pump will pull water from the fresh water tank. I often use it this way when I'm at a campground and would like more pressure in the shower.

If this ever happens to me I will certainly be looking to change brands. Are there any other options?

We rarely camp with hookups, but when we do, we have low water pressure at the faucets, even if the campground supplies high pressure. No problem when using the tank water and pump. It's been an issue since the trailer was new. We have an inline filter and pressure regulator on the hose but they are providing plenty of pressure entering the trailer, so there's a restriction in the trailer plumbing somewhere. Does incoming city water flow through the water pump, or is it plumbed in downstream from the pump discharge? If it goes through the pump, wondering if I can boost pressure with the pump and tank water.

Yeah I have a Sherline scale, ordered direct so I could get 0-1k instead of the standard 0-2k for better accuracy, it's near dead on 700 lbs. I carry a lot of gear including a full heavy stage piano 😅GVWR is just under max with spare for full fresh tank. Yeah agree its not strictly necessary but if it gives a better towing experience I'll keep it. Heck I've been towing without WD for the last 4k miles, but I've had an annoying tail feeling about it. Would be nice to get rid of that sway as its not needed and just a hassle. Yeah this beastie has better torque/power than any ICE but mediocre 1500 payload at 1700 lbs, kind of a different world. Even with it being low slung with the battery floor, I've found it gets a bit boaty with carrying lots of payload, so possible I'm more susceptible to it even with Alcan, I'll have to see. Edit; for example, the truck doesn't support fifth wheel or bed campers. Fifth wheels have greater tongue so you'd quickly bottom out there. Bed campers, even a lightweight one, would have really poor handling I think. So yeah it's just a different thing that doesn't slot into the ICE lineup I'll stick with the Anderson for now, upgrade those springs in a couple weeks and maybe in the next year or two ditch the hitch. Hey so you are going bare nekkid on the hitch - what do you use? Did you change the ball or stay 2"?

Another use for the fuse located at the jack is to make it more difficult for a thief. When leaving it in a sketchy situtation, I lower the tongue and remove that fuse. Want my Ollie, they will have more difficulty than planned for. GJ

It would be a first for us too! There should still be a late registration.

Thank you Chris, for bring this to our attention! 😂 Every time a forum member brings up a maintenance issue, next thing I'm outside checking ours. That's for sure! Ours has no screen at all and no rust. I can stick the full length of my index finger all the up into the opening. Thought I better secure our drain to keep mice and bugs out. I cut a circle about 2 1/2" dia. Then cut a radius line to shape a cone. Then crushed the screen over a 3/8" socket extension and pushed it up into the opening. Same screening I used in the fridge vents.

I received email reminders from Josh White @ OTT. Last one was 8/20. You may not be on the list or maybe being flagged as spam. Perhaps they closed it down early because it’s full. But there are always cancellations, so give them a call and check on your email situation.

I believe late registration may be available, it just costs more. Contact Oliver: 1-888-526-3978.

I can’t believe registration opened on some unknown date and is already closed down 2 months before the event???? I got a camping site back in January and tried for months to register with Oliver. I called the park after I registered to tell them I was with the Oliver group and was added. I posted on this forum asking when they would open registration, as well. No answers. Why would someone not email people who registered to attend the rally to let them know there was finally a registration link? so now what? I already have a campsite, got that back in January. Why didn’t registration open at the same time as sites were available? I’ve been remote camping in Canada and Alaska since the end of May, so just thought to go online and look for a reg link. who should I talk with? Is there a registration fee? if you’ve never been to this event, it’s incredibly difficult to get details on it. it’s very frustrating, there should just be an email list you sign up for and an invite that goes out.

Hi I’m gonna be at my first rally. I registered to camp back in January, but the Oliver site wouldn’t let me register with you yet. I tried many times through May before I left on a 3 month trip to Alaska. Now I’m on my way back to Texas and checked to see if I could finally register and it was closed already ? I’m very confused. The event is still a couple months out. Anyways we are camping in site D14 - 2 adults. After planning this for over a year, I sure hope we still get to attend??? Tanya Phillips Todd Lape

The originals are uncomfortable and i have considered replacing for that reason alone. Ours look a bit too good yet for me to spring for it. Pass the ketchup, please. 😉

Operator error, no pressure gauge. Great posts by someone with knowledge of RV fresh water tanks, and the destructive force that has destroyed stick built trailers. This person worked for a manufacturer of tanks, including fresh water tanks for RV's