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Through this thread, and thanks to the mention by @topgun2 of the suggestion made to him by @mossemi -- I started reading C.J. Box's Joe Pickett series. Now 14 months later, I am working my way through book #26 in the series -- it's the latest one, but I hope it won't be the LAST. I've read them all, in order, and they have been immensely enjoyable! I especially love Box's attention to detail, such that I recognize back roads, forests, mountains and scrub that he uses as the backdrop for this fictional series.

May I assume that the term Older Hulls means older than your 2010 Hull? (As in Hulls 1 - 44)

You guys totally lost me on the H and L pins. Suspect some others are not following that as well. So more AI homework that explains what they do, and how it applies to both the 30 and 50 amp versions: AI Overview No, both units actually share this identical hardware feature. The factory-installed wire loop bridge between the remote L and H pins is present on both the older Victron Orion-Tr Smart 30A and the newer Victron Orion XS 50A models. How It Works on Both Versions: The Factory Setup: Both chargers ship with a small wire bridge (jumper loop) pre-installed into the green remote terminal block connecting the L (Low) and H (High) pins. This loop tricks the charger into remaining in a constant "Remote On" state so it works right out of the box using just its internal engine-shutdown detection settings. Disabling / Customizing: If you want to tie the charger to a physical toggle switch, an ignition-live wire, or a Battery Management System (BMS), you must pull that factory bridge out on either unit to utilize the individual pins. The Real Key Differences: While they share the same style of remote bridge, the Orion XS 50A is a complete, ground-up redesign compared to the older Orion-Tr Smart 30A Efficiency: The 50A model runs at an impressive 98.5% efficiency (meaning it stays incredibly cool and no longer features massive cooling fins), whereas the older 30A model runs at 87% efficiency and gets famously hot to the touch. Connectivity: The 50A unit includes a dedicated VE.Direct port to easily talk to GX devices (like a Cerbo GX), whereas the 30A unit relies purely on Bluetooth for communication. Adjustability: The 50A version allows you to precisely dial down the charging current via the app (from 1A up to 50A to protect weaker alternators, while the older 30A version simply outputs its fixed max capacity when active.

The screen below clearly shows the Orion DC-DC charger is OFF (left frame). When you click on the message, "Why is the charger off?" you get 3 reasons. In the setup, I clicked the app toggle Charger enabled to OFF, the option Geoff had mentioned which is given in see reason #3. Notice the warning message when using the app switch to disable charging (middle frame). As soon as the TV ignition key is turned OFF reason #8 will appear since the engine detection will immediately show <12.9V (configurable). A sitting lead acid starter battery in good condition should read about 12.6V. Reason #1 is Low Input Voltage which occurs as soon as you physically disconnect the DC-DC cables at the Andersen terminal at the bumper. You can see that looking at the first screen where it shows 13.5V on house batteries and 0.0V on the starter battery since is is disconnected (OFF reasons in right frame). If I needed a 4th method to turn OFF the Orion, e.g. for servicing the system, I would throw the 60A breaker under the dinette seat which connects the Orion charging output to the main positive bus. When both the breaker AND the Andersen connector are OPEN the Orion will have no possible voltage on either end, so will be fully powered down. Gosh, if a 5th way to ensure the Orion is OFF is truly needed, please add the switch at the hitch or within arms length under the doghouse. If I had to climb back into the cabin just ONCE to turn the Orion ON when we're packed and ready to tow, it would be the last time. I would delete that switch leg asap. 🤣 But that's just me, keep it simple. BTW, the switch for our LiFePO4 batteries is a 1/2" wrench to the main ground wire. It works every time, no added resistance, no additional points of failure! 😎

In a nut shell: 1. "Keeps it in place especially for rough surfaces, not level areas or hard braking:" Ok so 99% of owners are out of spec in our normal use of our trailers. 2. So when it breaks, we can expect to see "Movement while Traveling": OK, so basically it is going to be moving about while traveling. And per OTT that's evidently not a life safety hazard. 3. An traveling on such roads will cause "Damage" if it broken: Damage is bad. A broken water line while traveling is not that big of a deal unless you left the pump on. So don't do that. But a broken gas line is not acceptable to the vast majority of breathing owners. If that's their end position on this subject, I feel it is a bit short sighted from a legal, ethical, and customer service perspective. PS: I really like the strapping with marine board and/or with romex. GJ

We bought Tochta twin mattresses in 2020, like them very much. Used the custom build option, they fit the curved radius well. I don’t have the old order, but I think we ordered the Utopia model in Firm, 10” thickness. If I had to buy them again, I think I would get the 6”, or maybe the 8”. They are a bit too thick and heavy to manage and sit on, and I think they would be just as comfortable. We have HyperVent underneath and on the edges. Looks like a good Veterans Day Sale.

We upgraded from the OEM foam pads in the Spring of '25 and absolutely love the Tochta mattresses. After having spinal fusion surgery this past August, my wife is in the process of a year long recovery process, and sleeping comfortably has been a challenge. Between sleeping in a recliner, sleeping on our high end mattress on our bed and sleeping in the Oliver on the Tochta mattress, she says the mattress in the Oliver is by far her most comfortable sleep. I also feel it's a very comfortable mattress for me as well. I'm 6'2" and just under 200# and completely comfortable when sleep in the Oliver since the upgrade.

Checked ours today and found only one strap and it was located in the center of the back of the Truma, top to bottom. It was still in tact.

We have Tochta and are very happy with ours

We were watching an electrical upgrade on an RV, and in one of the drone shots, Deb spotted an Oliver in the background. Check out IreneIronTravels YouTube channel to see it 27:30 into the video.

On older hulls they used Scandvik faucets that had "BSP" (British Standard Pipe) threads which are harder to source but they can be found on the Scandvik website. Bought one from them a couple of years ago for a little over $40.

Two things... Be certain as to where it is leaking. Is the water coming out from the threads to the hose? If so, what @Ollie-Haus wrote is likely the simple reason. And given the threads are crossed could be a reason why it's on so tight. Many of us have had a similar leak but not from the hose threads. Instead it leaked in the plastic molding to which the hose connects. Run more water while looking to be sure of the specific location of the leak. If it is cracked above the hose connection you will need a new assembly: https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-shower Either way you can pull the shower assembly out from the hull. When standing outside disconnecting these hose(s) a simple task vs. hunched over the basement with one hand in there. This link should take you to where I installed a new shower assembly. Notice there is ample slack to work these connections from the outside. Remove the 4 screws and some caulk.

Yeah, I believe you chose the right place that a custom mattress is a Mod!. I've read several positive comments on our Forum re this brand mattress. They came with when we purchased our Oliver used 3 years ago. Therefore, I do not know the full history, how old they were at the time. Whether there were choices for firmness. If new when the hull was born would make them 7 years old at the time. They were WAY too soft for me. My wife was OK with them. At my 6'2" height with 220+ LBS, I felt like I would sink into the foam, it would limit my movement and it got hot. We replaced ours after only a few nights use. We went with Brooklyn Beddings at RVmattress.com and purchased a 30x75" Dearfoam Essential which I believe is comparable to the CopperFlex Essential today. This product became a little too firm even though we went with the 12" height advertised as medium firmness (but too tall if you like to sit on them). It's impossible know firmness when you are ordering online. We opened a corner on each, measured and trimmed a radius using an insulation knife. Tacked the corners back together and the mattress cover holds it all nicely together. I'm happier with a mattress a little firm which let's me sit up to watch TV. Too soft made me struggle with the bedding and was difficult getting in and out of those little 30" mattresses. Just my take, some feedback for your decision.

The only small item should be a flat rubber washer. BTW from your picture, that fitting appears to be cross threaded onto the faucet nipple. Could be the reason for the leak.

My main concern is when I unscrew the hose pictured in the blue circle. It is on there very tight. I have tried to unscrew by hand and it won't budge. I didn't know if when I unscrew it if there is any springs within or smaller items.

This looks like a far better anti-vibration solution than the metal straps.

I added an extension flex hose for doing dishes outdoors and either the Oliver hose, or the extension hose, had chrome plastic fittings, That plastic can split if overtighteded and cause leaks, and it's it hard to see the crack. Those hoses are mostly all the same fitting sizes and readily available at Amazon and hardware stores. Just over finger tight is usually enough to prevent leaks if the o-ring or sealing washer is good. Good luck!

That’s a solid plan, the switch can replace the factory L–H bridge. There’s also a toggle in the Victron app if you ever want to switch it off without a physical switch. Good discussion! Cheers!

Ron, I think the nylon straps make a lot of sense, and that's the approach I plan to use for securing my Victron MultiPlus II after mounting it to a homemade platform. I also plan to place a section of lightweight interlocking foam floor mat beneath it to provide some cushioning and vibration isolation. It's the same material I used in my battery compartment, and it has worked well while also providing a bit of insulation. The mat may not have the heat protection that is needed for the hot water heater. One can purchase the mats at Home Depot or Lowes or ...

Two and a half years in and found a broken metal strap securing the Dometic furnace. Replaced it and others at the Truma hot water component with cam lock straps. Strips of Marine Starboard were placed as heat protection. Great fix, here’s some pics:

Hello friends. I don’t know if upgrading your mattress is considered a mod or not but I would like to seek your valued opinion and maybe experience with the custom made Tochta mattresses. Sleeping well is getting more and more important as we slip into our 70’s and a mattress we can depend on is very important. If you are or have been acquainted with Tochta, we would appreciate any feedback to help us make an educated guess. Thanks in advance.

@Snackchaser Yes, I understand and agree with the edit. My current plan is to use a simple manual switch to interconnect the L and H terminals, allowing me to remotely activate via the Orion XS as needed. That approach lets me take full advantage of the unit's built-in engine shutdown protection without relying on any automated control of the L or H pins. Thanks, Dean

Here is the reply from OTT tech support concerning this issue: ********************* 1) Purpose of the strap: The strap helps reduce vibration on the water heater while also locking it down into the water heater mounting bracket. It is considered an inspection item and should be inspected anytime you inspect the water heater, and should be replaced as needed.While a broken strap does not prevent the water heater from operating, we recommend replacing it, since the unit is more exposed to vibration and movement while traveling. The risk of damage goes up with rough road surfaces, uneven campsite terrain, and hard braking. 2) How the water heater is attached: The water heater is attached at the front of the unit through the faceplate. At the rear, it is secured through the strap, which fastens through the water heater mounting bracket and into the water heater. The strap goes over the top of the water heater to the other side and is secured the same way. There are also a few spots where the plumber's tape attaches to the water heater around its back edge. ********************* This is helpful info. My only beef is the fatigue failure-prone strapping is the wrong material. @jd1923 recommended some engineered alternatives that will be more expensive but also more durable. Now with the OTT info, I will focus on a secure vibration control. Thanks everyone for your input.

I own an Oliver Elite 2, hull 412. I was winterizing my RV and noticed the outside shower hose was leaking. It looks like a pretty easy fix. Before I attempt to repair, is there anything that I should be aware of? The picture show hose under street side bed and the hose in question. The hardest part would be unscrewing the hose from under the bed. It is kinda in a tight spot.

Another update for anyone stumbling onto this old post. You will not need the Anderson WDH with the Titan XD. The towing guide is confusing about "required" vs. "recommended" but does not mention the XD model except for mentioning that a goose neck trailer mounts are available for truck. On Page 10-38 of the manual in the asterisk footnotes for towing with the XD it states recommended when towing over 5,000 lbs. I am still using the Anderson because I am so used to it after 8 years of use with an F-150. But the manual clearly states it is only recommended. On another note... After upgrades to the 5 leaf Alcan springs and the larger Nev-R-Lube Axles, the trailer hits a bump and just settles right down. No bouncy bounce 4-5 times like it did with the ford. Happy Camping, Scotty