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The above is accurate for our 2018 Elite I... as nice as that refrigerator is, the Nova Kool R5810 will not fit through the "neck" between the refrigerator/microwave cabinet and the bathroom wall. We recently replaced our Dometic RM2454 with the Nova Kool R3800. It is slightly smaller overall than the OEM Dometic, but it has the same size freezer, which was important to us. JD was correct with his comment that the original refrigerator cabinet is "wonky" in multiple dimensions. I had to shrink the width of the opening in order to mount the R3800, so I also squared-up the floor and sides prior to the Nova Kool installation. We did have to disassemble the original Dometic fridge to get it out through that same "neck" as described above, although not in quite as many pieces as JD did... I took off the Dometic door and hinge brackets, the mounting flange (which was seriously double-sticky taped on...), and removed the cooling unit from the back of the fridge. Otherwise, the fridge "insulated box" remained intact and did not have to be cut up in order to remove it [although the sawzall was standing by... 🙂 ]

I was thinking the same thing!

Yes, they do. I had to replace mine a few years ago when it wouldn’t let water pass. It was right next to the back flow valve in the back of the basement like yours.

Agree to all that. The shop has been good to work with and I have called Truma a few times as well. But sadly yes, Truma does not allow any internal part of the VarioHeat to be replaced, even by their certified tech. The full unit has to be replaced 😞 It does sound like moisture and corrosion is the main issue with the VarioHeat. One suggestion is to run the heater every couple of weeks to help "dry it out" when high level of moisture /humidity is present. I am curious how you dried out your sensor?

Thanks for the update. Unfortunately Truma doesn't publish all of the error codes and it can add additional stress to an already stressful situation when you have failures on the road so it's good to document them here. Sadly often times, as you've found out, there is little that can be done as an owner to fix these appliances being that Truma equipment is extremely proprietary, they won't sell repair parts to owners and they require that all repairs be done only by certified Truma technicians. The problem of course is that Truma service centers are few and far between which is a problem when you're stranded on a trip. I will say that their service centers are top notch if you can make it to one of those locations. I haven't experienced your error but I did experience an E5H error code at one point which at the time was not documented anywhere. The response from the Truma service person was; "ionisation voltage recognized during standby mode. Could have been from a solenoid sticking for a moment due to moisture on the sensor, or a voltage spike". As it turned out the service person was correct and it was simply moisture on the sensor which I was able to dry out. The other unfortunate thing about Truma appliances is that often times the "fix" is to replace the entire unit no matter how simple or inexpensive the failed component is. Along those lines the unit to replace the failed unit is a refurbished unit of unknown age / history. The unit will be "factory certified" so there is that but be sure to fill out your warranty card! Hopefully you'll be good to go and you won't experience any further problems. Enjoy your trip!

Reminds me of the pictures you get after a colonoscopy. Bill

I will get an external screen cover to put around the overflow pipe, like those that cover furnace exhausts.

I grabbed my borescope and not only grabbed some pics of the rusted screen in the overflow pipe, but a short video of my borescope magnet attachment trying to pull more screen out. Some of the rotted screen simply fell out upon touching it. I got the rest out with a long angled pick. Also, I had drained my fresh water tank on Sunday after a trip, but did not raise the nose of the camper high enough to remove enough water. You can see the reflection of the borescope light in the water. So I raised the rear jack stands, and raised the nose up a good bit more to drain even more water. I bet no one has shown the inside of the water tank before. LOL I can now see how an old rusted screen mesh could block the overflow. Also time to clean tank. fresh-water-overflow-screen-removal.mp4

@Tony and Rhonda yours do look to be in better shape than ours were. The original fabric seemed good quality. You could try the machine wash. Use a long pre-soak, then the gentle cycle. Another thought would be professional dry cleaning. If you have a good local cleaners, take a seat back cushion there and ask their opinion. And maybe they can be dry-cleaned without removing the covers. Let us know how it turns out!

Hi @jd1923, Our fabric is in generally good shape, no stains and not fuzzy (on the outside at least) but as far as we know they've never been cleaned. They also have an odd feel to the fabric so we'd like to clean them.

We had the same fabric in our 2016. Thought to replace rather than clean. The fabric was worn fuzzy too, not just dirty. They unzip so could be put in the washing machine. They could get more fuzzy and the stains may not come out. Air dry so not to shrink. For $500 we have not only new Sunbrella fabric, but new 5" dense foam (was 4") and a nice new RED color (fabric comes in many colors). And they are much more comfortable! 🤣

I've searched the forums with @Wayfinder's great search tool/page and only found one hit on cleaning the fabric/upholstery in the Oliver (from John Davies). He machine washed his fabric. We have the brown woven fabric in our 2017. Does anyone have any advice for cleaning the fabric? Thanks in advance. Tony

That's for sure. There's no sound reason OTT locates them back there. Some of us have real mattresses! No longer am I moving my bed to change a fuse, or Chris' bed to change the water valves. When I moved ours under the rear dinette seat, I found all I had to do was cut the power wires shorter for the 3 jacks because the wires go towards the front anyway. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10469-goal-to-minimize-the-need-to-move-the-beds-while-camping/

That's all I can figure happened - the overflow got blocked. Since my screen in the overflow is falling apart with rust, it's letting most of the water out fast. I was wondering of those plastic strands, from making the tank holes, blocked that person's overflow, instead of going through the pump screen. When I purchased my #110 used in 2021, the pump screen was full of those strands from the drill holes. But have not seen them since. I also got push-back that the trailers do not have built-in 40-50 lb water regulators. Well, mine came with them in the basement, under the floor board (discovered last year when replacing check valves). I typically push 70 PSI of house water into my fresh tank all the time. Now I'm scared to let overflow too long just to help flush things. So far, so good though. Knock on fiberglass.

I believe the fuse on the jack post comes with the jack, so it's somewhat redundant. Fuses should always be located as close to the power source as possible. Glad you got it fixed.

My wife mentioned seeing that incident on the FB page. Was a cause ever determined? I gather the overflow line did work. Too much pressure going in? Another reason to always have a pressure regulator on your hose, even when filling the tank.

I purchased and picked up my Nova Kool 5810 from a dealer in Miami, FL. It was a day of travel, but what's a retired guy going to do on a Tuesday? Mossey

Good question, never thought about it. Perhaps the screen serves to keep critters out.

It worked! Thanks everyone. 1). Those fuses under the bed are really hard for me to work with. 2) What is the fuse on the jack post for?

Has anyone taken a pic of the inside of their fresh water tank overflow, near the walk-in door? Here's mine. Looks like there's a metal screen falling apart. At least my tank won't blow up like a ballon and warp the trailer. That's something. 🫣 I'm wondering if this inside piece does unscrew from what appears to be the outer ring.

@Tom and Doreen did you have the same error code? The part was the combustion sensor. They originally thought it was the room temp sensor which sounds like it can be replaced. The combustion sensor is not sold in the US. I called Truma and they confirmed that for the combustion sensor it requires a new unit 😠 The shop found a refurbished unit that comes with a one-year warranty and will install once it shows up. The worst part is RV shows sell the units at their own retail price, which in my case is a 40% markup from Truma's own MSRP! The said they can't adjust their price but did cover the $450 overnight shipping charge to try and make up for it. So we have taken it on the chin in this case for this incident. I just hope Truma stays stable for us now and we can enjoy our long trip.

Left-Side Hinge Ordering - Just FYI, and to keep this key thread somewhat at the top, if you are ordering a Nova Kool 5810, most in stock fridges are right-side hinged. You can swap sides, but Nova Kool recommends ordering a left-side hinge. I got the sense from talking to them, that if you reverse the door, you end up with the holes exposed and apparently it voids the five year warranty. Lead time as I write this is 4-6 weeks. I got mine from suremarine.com out of Seattle. They are a high volume Nova Kool dealer and close to the Canadian factory. Shipping to San Antonio is around $500. ;-(, but their price was best I could find. https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Single-Door-Freezers/F5810ACDC.html

@Todd B, what was the part / component / assembly called that was associated with the error code? Were you able to get a reasonable solution from Truma without the expense of replacing the entire unit?

I did get under my rig with my creeper and a bright flashlight. I took some pics too, but they are not really worth loading up here. So far, everything looks good and things appear to be moving as they should. However, when I put my springs on, I was a bit "anal" and even added a finger size of grease on the shackles where the springs would be touching and rubbing. I knew the 65 ft lbs may be an issue, so I gave everything a fighting chance to move freely. LOL Seems to have worked. I do have grease pushed out to the far side of the wet bolt/shackle area, but then again I used a Ryobi battery powered grease gun, which seem quite powerful, and FAST.