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Started suspension maintenance today, so got a pic of the back of our wheels. I can zoom in, to see the SenDel brand trailer wheels, made in China, 6x16jj rims, 110 PSI Max, 3,200 - 3,750 LBS load rating.

Thank you for all your information. I really want one, but have spent too much on the Oliver already. I want the one with the grey front since I have that trim theme now. https://fogattiliving.com/products/fogatti-instashower-ultra-66-000-btu-rv-tankless-water-heater-with-grey-door I see now that without the border trim it's a 15" square. Thanks again. For your ground, what you did is fine. Or you could run a new ground wire around the back to the streetside and to the main ground bus. I have all grounds connected from here by the two 8 AWG green wires going left to the Inverter ground terminal, to the battery ground. Chassis ground is good, but direct copper wire connections are better.

(Regarding no Truma anymore) Yeah with Truma integration you either use it all or use nothing. What are they using for the PP model heat/water/AC? Yeah it’s not Truma, I don’t recognize it

I think it’s a myth. I had tankless on my first house - loved it. Instant hot water and as much as you want. Very popular in Japan, they don’t have the room for a big tank (neither did I). In my ‘26 it’s great. One time I got in the shower, all ready and realized I had forgotten to turn it on the night before. No problem, hit a switch and was in business. If that’s not convincing Truma has a Comfort mode that keeps the water sitting in the tank preheated. I like the Truma combo control system for AC, heat and water. German engineering (yes I know about the recall, it happens) … I worked in Germany once upon a time on an engineering project. They’re very proud of their engineering culture (country wise). A crazy level of attention to detail. Not so great for software but physical engineering? Yeah … this was down by the Dark Forest, Stuttgart area. Lots of automotive and cuckoo clocks. I heard a cuckoo in the forest once, the Germans were mad because they never heard it 😅 (I digress) Jackery is a relative newcomer I think. I bet they use cylindrical in those batteries, I’ll take the prismatic of Lithionics any day. Watch one of the factory tours. Anyhow solar awnings sound great (but not at 8k! That is seriously expensive solar). Problem is getting to use them, OK haven’t had this too long but have been camping pretty continuously. Rarely had a chance to use them for any length of time. JMHO

Insta Shower 9 Pro, which also fits the basic 13x13 hole with 15 x 15 door. However the fit was tight and just a titch out of square from the original install of the Suburban. Used a drill with rotating drum sanding attachment and vacuum in the other hand to sand away critical parts for an easier fit. After a few efforts it slide in nicely. I chose this unit over some of the less expensive models due to its mixing chamber/valve the less expensive models did not have. These WH are said to be 74% efficient ± and would bet the Suburban is nowhere near this level of efficiency. It's also very quiet and very easy to winterize. Your Suburban has a 15x15 door but the actual hole or rather square is 13x13. The Fogatti comes with a surround trim piece but will not work on the Oliver due to the recessed indentation for the WH and Furnace. Not a big deal as the supplied gasket and caulk easily seal the unit well. Finally finished the install today and thanks to @Snackchaser for his suggestion of capping off the two other blue and yellow/green wires and running an additional black wire from a bolt on the chassis to the black wire on the WH. Everything seems to be working perfectly. Had gorgeous day in Big Sky country after frigid night before. I really like the remote control for adjusting water temp to your taste. The fit and finish on this product is on an order of magnitude better than the older Suburban. The engineering and tech seems to also be light years ahead of the Suburban which by comparison seems like a relic out of the end of WWII. Is it perfect? Probably not, but thus far I like it much better than the older Suburban WH. LMK if there are more concerns or questions.

Please do!!! My suspension was silent when I got it. Now it’s creaky. I just did the 3k lube right on schedule but still creaky. There’s a couple that won’t take lube, wondering what to do Ok so loosen nut, rotate bolt, grease and then tighten to 58

Rob, what is the model # of the unit you purchased? I was seeing most new Fogatti units at 17.64" (600mm) square, but our OEM Suburban HWH is 15" square.

Just retorqued the suspension after towing 3600 miles over the last 6 months on the new D52 axles with Alcan 5-pack leaf springs. On the right side (I'll work the left side tomorrow), the U-bolts did not need tightening at 90 ft-lb (they're set, last time I'll touch these). The three main leaf (3) bolts, the EZ Flex center bolt and the two end bolts did not need tightening either (torqued to 70 ft-lb). The wet-bolt on one shackle would not take grease, so I loosened it to apply grease. All four (4) shackle-connected wet-bolts needed a bit of tightening (torqued to 58 ft-lb). All shackles and other parts looked in like-new condition. Not real concerned with rotating wet-bolts as you could see they were all fixed into a set position even though needing torque. Just loosen the nut and rotate the bolt if one is not taking grease. Torque wet-bolts after greasing. I'm going to start a maintenance thread for the Alcan/D52 Nev-R Lube setup.

Looks that way from what I can tell, and those 48V Houghton's on paper don't look very efficient either. I think the 120v inverter units that we each have would use less power even after the loss of running through an inverter.

Yes, the fan upgrade is imperative! I turn ours on whenever camped with sun on that entrance wall. Our old absorption fridge now works great (not so before the fans), it even keeps ice cream hard! 😎 OMG, the Beech Lane spec does state, "**The fans are about 1-1.5" thick!" How many engineers did it take to specify that?! 🤣 I'm working on Oliver suspension maintenance today, so thought I would measure for you! I measure 1 1/8" thick for the assembly, but in each corner are Allen screws and at that point they're 1 3/8".The Beech Lane dual-fan assembly fit nicely inside the top-vent cavity, but our hull is older and we have the Dometic fridge. Perhaps you also have the Norcold unit, so copy what Geoff did above. Not sure why he went with a bottom vent installation as most of us mounted the upper vent as an exhaust. Anybody need the Beech Lane product? Amazon has "Like New" right now for a very good price of $56! Best wishes, JD

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek. Yep, but come to think of it... How nice it would be to have 2300A of solar available! Plus, you'd have have redundancy if (when?) one of them failed. Now we need a gray water storage carpet to put under the solar awning. And camp chairs that also hold fresh water. We could boondock forever!

No thank you. Never wanted a Jackery, like independent parts to replace if/when needed. They only running the A/C on 48V? That's what fuses are for. 🤣 I power only one jack fuse at a time, a best practice.

Start with three each for the jacks. Or make every owner sign a waiver that they will not operate more than one jack at a time.... LOL One for all the electronic outlets

Oliver is adamant about maintaining their 7000 pound GVWR. The 4 leaf spring pack is now the weakest link and achieves their goal.

I just got some Bulldog Shocks From O’reilly,s (just need two). There were going to be about $78 with tax and shipping,because they had to special order them.. I asked for my veterans discount, no good on spec.orders…He said let me try this.. Got the price down to $58 out the door… the shocks were $31 each normally..I was pleasantly surprised.and the parts come in 2 days instead of a week.. Now that is customer satisfaction!!

The way I understood it, the inverter all the 12 volt stuff was built into the battery itself. Like a giant Jackery.

I was just looking at the threads for mounting fans for the fridge. I was favoring the vertical mounting position. I did some measurements from the back of the wall ( fiberglass support) where the top of the fans would be mounted to the back of the top plastic cover. I got about 1" +/- 1/16" The beach lane fans sawy they are between 1" to 1.5" . That is quite a variance. Did any of you has to cut /grind down the fiberglass support to get the fans to fit? How much clearance do you need on the top? Still out on the road, heading home in a 1/2 weeks. Just trying to plan ahead. of time Since I have had the trailer the fridge it has had problems with temps above 90 degree. I just can't keep up. We are heading out in the heat of the summer for our next trip and thought this would be a great upgrade.

Yes, you'd have a DC-DC 48/12 converter! Add one of these for every 30A required in 12VDC circuits! 😎 https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24883&msclkid=43c410b584c71378f430794e07bd6059&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=invertersupply - shopping&utm_term=4584894771909782/

Exactly, regardless of code, wire nuts are for Residential use within junction boxes. Automobiles, trucks and trailers, anything DOT approved for highway use should use crimp connectors, or terminals with eyelet connectors screwed to a bus, relay or switch. Don't use anything else, including all the fancy cr@p you'll find, like WAGO or any other lever connectors. I toss them out when they come with an installation kit. You don't want a set screw holding stranded wire. You don't solder automotive connections either. Solder is for electronics only, it can crack with vibration. Only basic crimps will absorb vibration without harm.

I don't think the Chill Cube has an OFF setting for the compressor, always ON at low. Not certain of this, but 61F was achieved at a set temp of 72 overnight. The Follow Me feature was OFF. I turned it ON for day two, but it clouded up and highs dropped from 95F on Sunday to 78F on Monday! Testing is over until our summer heat comes. LOVE the low power consumption and the regress to whisper-level sounds once the cabin gets cool! 😎 We took a 5-week trip to Minnesota and back last June. Didn't think we would get so much heat in states like the Dakotas and Wyoming on our return, let alone travels through Kansas and Iowa in getting there. About 10 stays of the 35-day trip were miserable, because of running the Dometic A/C. To watch TV and to get asleep, I used my noise-cancelling headphones which I had from my days of business travel. In the past, they were used to reduce airplane engine noise, now a quite similar noise in that of the P2 A/C! If we had the Chill Cube installed a year ago, there would have been no complaints of hot weather on or trip, for sure! Those on the fence, scrap your P2 for anything else, though my wife Chris and I certainly recommend this product! She slept like a baby all night as it got quietly colder! 😎

Got a quote from Alcan, here's some answers to questions I had So Oliver is being cautious and going 4 leaf

Makes sense to me thus the comment earlier regarding using crimp connectors at the final stage

I hope you all recognize this was tongue-in-cheek.

I only deploy my regular Girard awning when I am at the trailer on calm days. I certainly wouldn’t leave the awning deployed all day while the trailer is unattended, especially at the cost of the solar awning. I see this as the biggest limitation to the usefulness of the solar awning.

Of course, one on each side so you can generate power from sunup to sundown. Expensive power. I can't imagine that such a device will be trouble free over the years but maybe I am not up to date on the film technology.