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This indicates that the sail switch in the furnace is not operating properly.

I thought to find an old thread I had remembered reading, just after I had joined the OTT Forum. At first, I did not understand the value of this feature. How would Victron Power Assist be of value in a real-world use case? Thank you @Ty J and others who had contributed here (now over 2 years ago). We love our Victron Multiplus II, OMG! Camping in south central Kansas, a muggy day that was going get hot, mid-to-high 80s over the afternoon, and we wanted to go for the day... Leaving our older pup Charley to rest in the Oliver while we were gone. The Dometic with SoftStart would not run on this public "20A circuit" alone, without blowing the breaker. I set the MP2 limit setting for incoming amps to 15A to be very safe 75% of the 20A commercial circuit (to lower the probability of blowing the breaker). We ran the Dometic Pengiun 2 A/C, set to 69F. The 600 Ah batteries were high 90s SOC due to our Orion DC-DC charger running as we drove in the day before. The Victron app showed -40A on startup, so I was thinking we would lose 30-40% SOC while gone for 4-5 hours. We were gone a full 5 hours. The SOC on 600 Ah, in Power Assist mode, dropped only 20% (compressor only running 60% of total time). All was good, A/C running, the Oliver interior nicely cooled down and all systems running as programmed. These are the results. Notice AC OUT at 1684W - 1226W AC IN = 458W supplied by batteries (at 96% efficiency: 458W / 13V x 36.7A). I've never before seen this screen on the Victron Connect app for the MP2. There truly is a working Power Assist mode, not only in how the MP2 Inverter/Charger functions, but as a listed display mode as shown. This feature works well and as advertised. 😂

Super good idea on the easy adjust method. I'll be doing a check of the brakes during bearing and seal service. Have wanted to lube all those slide and pivit points for several years. Just always didn't have the time to do so. I checked out the cost of Brake shoes: About $80 each = $240 That's unbelievably high. Cost of complete Brake Plate with shoes: About $100 each = $400 Cost of Upgrade to 5200's from SW Wheel Web Site: $2,000 Base Axle $551 Timkin Upgrade $70 U-Bolt Kit $34 Springs N/A I'll continue with my Dexter 2400's Parts Per Axle $1408 ($655 X 2 X 1.075 =$1408) Assume Install $600 ($300/axle) For a trailer in it's 8th season, I would not buy shoes at that cost. The replacement of the entire Dexter made brake assembly makes more sense. When one considers that I have so far spent 8 days of my time doing bearing service (One day per season), plus the costs of lube, bearings and seals, and the benefits of the 5200's, I can now understand why so many owners are looking at that direction. IF or WHEN I get to the point of needing shoes, it will likely be the trigger to decision to just go with the 5200's. s If it's not in July, then I'll do the full clean, disassembly, and lube and get another season or two out of them. Either way, I look forward to seeing a demo of the adjustment you mentioned! Would love to get a PM of the ALCAN costs. GJ

My family and I have had way over a dozen trailers. Most had boats on them, and one was a pop-up. As we approached retirement we knew we had had enough wave rocking and flapping canvas and needed a serious upgrade. So compared to all my previous experiences, the Ollie windows are super fantastic! Especially now that I have seen Chris's video!!! LOL GJ

I hate that! I still have it on my list to remove all the old caulk on our 10-year-old hull. Our hull went for OTT service in 2018 and 2020 according to receipts I have. They must have done all the messy caulk on top of caulk work, yes sloppy to say the least. What a shame on your only 1-year-old hull! There is no reason in the world they should have gone over yours. Caulk should last YEARS and caulk over caulk is never a good idea! Here is an example of the handywork of such an over-zealous artist! 😞 Picture is after travel on a dirt road which makes it show fully --

Here’s a quick and easy shortcut! After following this thread, I decided to clean our window tracks too. We live in the rain forrest and they were full of redwood needles, moss, dirt and mildew. The white rubber seals were terribly stained even after a hard scrubbing with a stiff brush. I was going to order new seals until I gave them a quick soak in “30 Second Outdoor Cleaner” from Ace Hardware. It's amazing! They looked brand new. I picked up some pipe cleaners to clean the track, but I didn’t need them. Instead I used a straight brush and a water hose nozzle. The water jet went under the fixed window section and washed all kinds of dirt out of the weep holes. I just pulsed the water jet until it ran clear. We moved the bedding and seat cushions out of the way, but there was minimal leakage inside. I'll be doing this every year now. Cheers, Geoff

I don't have any leaks, but... What caulk do y'all use for these sorts of things? You see, I was washing my Ollie after a long trip. The start of that trip was in Hohenwald for our first "annual maintenance". Don't get me wrong. I'm happy we had it done. They did a number of things under warranty, and I learned a few more things, but.... Part of what they did was re-caulk everything. And, while I was cleaning the roof, I got my first look at that part of their work. Some of it is genuinely sloppy. Maybe even useless. And, of course, it's in places that are really hard to get to. 🤪

Same here, this is our 5 trailer and must say I really don’t like these windows!

I do really dislike these windows overall. Waiting for the better windows. We'll see what gets announced soon.

Good idea. Maybe first a dry clean using compressed air on the high side and a wet/dry vac on the low side. Then do it wet with some dawn soap clean process with the hot water tank wand and a wet/dry vac involved. Both aided by poking with extra long pipe cleaners. Problem is we only have two hands...... GJ

🤣

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ALL: With the reorg at OTT, their experienced staff is taking on new and higher level roles. This nearly always entails a transition period with learning curve opportunities such as the above. I think this issue is a classic example of corporate change. The above owner discussions went a bit off the tracks. It is unfortunate that the "atmosphere" had gotten where it did during the delay. I appreciate seeing Jason E. stepping in and calming the waters, as he has effectively done periodically over the years. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Dan: I think you missed an important point that Mike made. He suggested you measure the distance between two points. He then basically stated that if it was welded wrong, that it would be a Barker warranty claim. In this regard he is factually and ethically correct. Granted it could have been a bit better stated. But it was a favorable suggestion to you. Instead the burner under the pot was turned up. In consideration of previous suggestions, and Jason E's post, there appear to be two paths open to you. Buy another jack. Bench check by comparison both jacks, and provide photo's of which clearly "side by side" show the defect you have. Then politely provide to both Barker and OTT Service the factual evidence of your situation. Personally I would chose the bench check route. And I still believe that "the right thing" will be done. As I also previously stated: Patience. In the mean time I would shim up the bed cover plate and keep having fun while Barker and OTT review your Bench Check report. GJ

It’s a common theme here John. What rules? Seems like anything goes! 🤣

Yes, they look nice, and there is more to come! 😊

Yep🙃

I did. It's deader than a door nail. Would likely need to pull the fridge out to find the break or re-wire to alternate location. Motivation low.

GJ, I was also recently thinking the same thing while washing on my last trip. I also now have the newer windows (replaced last year, 2024) which do not have that flexible & removable rubber track around the windows. I do think though that the newer windows drain a bit easier. I think I need to update the video for the newer windows. I'm thinking to recommend to use a mini-vacuum attachment to suck out any dry debris. That might make it easier to clean out when it does get wet. I'll do more videos when I'm retired, since I'm on the computer ALL DAY LONG for work, for 35 years. I'm done with them. LOL

Another sneak peak from Oliver about the new windows, to me they don’t look like acrylic, but hopefully dual pane! https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1CDPcaif7x/?mibextid=wwXIfr

You REBELL !!

Well - As with the fridge vents Oliver really doesn't HAVE to cut out these spaces to include the space for the sign hole. In fact, when the new fridge was adopted Oliver simply didn't cut out that part of the outside hull and to help "cover" the now flat area they engineered a fold out table in that space. So, that begs the question as to why Oliver has decided to continue with the "third brake light" Oliver sign. All I can tell you is that there has only been one Oliver Travel Trailer that has come off the production line without that area lighting up as an "Oliver" sign*. That trailer is mine and when Mr. Oliver happen to see it on the production line he was not happy and ordered that every Oliver would have that sign that says it is an Oliver from then on. I'd suggest that this shows how strongly Mr. Oliver felt about using that space for advertising exactly what brand of trailer was going down the road. Bill *note: there are at least three Olivers other than my "Twist" that also do not say "Oliver" in that third brake light space. But, in each of the other cases the owner had the Oliver lettering replaced with another name. "Olivia" and "ILUVHER" are two of the others and I can't remember the third.

I put a 32 inch Samsung Q60 a few back with no issues. Didn't change the existing mount. Just a simple plug and play.

Bill, the new (2024+) don’t have the fridge vent holes on the side anymore, so wondering why (with new molds anyway) couldn’t they leave out the Oliver sign hole, or maybe they have?

After 25 pages of comments, it's been jacked a few times. All anybody needs regarding the Alcan Leaf Spring mod is the read the first couple of pages. 🤣

So far I've only heard from two owners (hull's 45 and 251) regarding these hull plaques for older Ollies. Time is running a bit short, but, if anyone else with an older Ollie that does not presently have one of these (nicely done) hull plaques and would like one - please let me know ASAP. Bill

There is a long storied history in this regard - much of which I don't know. But, as with virtually all other "engineered" things in the Oliver even this is not as "simple" as it may seem. Bill