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Thank you. I wish the truck would fit in my garage, but living in Southern California I can keep it in my driveway without much worry. I’ll probably buy a cover for it as I really will be mainly using it as a tow vehicle. The Calmark cover for the trailer is extremely well made, so I would probably buy one from them. The fabric is so much better than what covercraft uses for their premium covers. I’m leaving towards buying a new shank for the Anderson ball/cone assembly. It’s $240 vs over $400 plus, and I can still use the Anderson. I’m assuming that the Anderson will still offer some degree of stability.

You’d be a first! I’ve have added 2 temp-activated exhaust fans, behind our absorption fridge and in the basement cavity for the inverter. But for the battery bay, I closed up the vent holes that were designed for lead acid venting and added insulation to the door, to close the air, minimize collection of road dust. Many of us have done this! Uncertain the specs of other brands, but the Epoch Essentials batteries many of us have installed, will supply 200A continuous, in or out as designed, without overheating and 400A Max Amps capacity. Most we used camping this week was -120A with the fridge, the Chill Cube A/C and electric HWH all running on battery/inverter. We’re camping again on Monday and besides these 120V appliances, I’ll boil water in the electric kettle. Power them all on at once should exceed the 200A Continuous Rating. The Victron MP2 can also exceed its 3KVA rating, found it up at 4.5K for a spell when I turned on the power-hungry Dometic P2 A/C (thank Goodness that’s gone) not realizing the electric HWH was heating! I’ll test and post the app screen prints that lists 3 internal temps per our 3 300 Ah batteries! I expect a cool interior, hot water at the tap, a pot of water ready for coffee and battery and inverter temps within spec! We’ll see… 😎

Very nice truck - I wish that one of those would fit in my garage! You don't "have to have" the Andersen with the 250 Ford. However, I would suggest hanging on to it until you have some time to determine how you like the ride without it. I'm guessing that you will sell the Andersen eventually. Bill

Hello all, I have been towing a LE2 for the past year with a 2025 tundra and an Anderson weight distribution system. I can say that the Anderson helps significantly with porpoising, but I found the tundra to be too little truck for the trailer. The power and torque are more than adequate, but every time I went out I found myself white knuckling going down steep grades. Just felt like very minimal safety margin if something went sideways. I sold the tundra and bought an f250 Tremor with 11000 gvwr tow package. It has a 3” receiver. My Anderson has a 2” ball on a 2” shank. Should I by a new 3” shank with 8” drop, or just by a new tow hitch and skip the Anderson all together. It is a bit of a hassle to use. I was considering weigh safe hitch with 8” drop. The new trucks receiver is at about 22.5” on center. Any thoughts would be appreciated, Marc

Also OTT seems to have changed their insulation scheme. From factory walkthroughs it used to be outer bottom and inner upper. This was probably for ease of installation. My trailer is reflective outer bottom as before, but on top Nice thick outer insulation, no air gap as far as I know. So now maybe it seems to be a combo of infrared reflective and usual dead air insulation, all on the outer

The person who picked up their factory trailer after me was from Alaska, if they join the forum would be interesting to hear their experience. Regarding four season I think no TT will measure up to your home. Emperial claim almost 3” thick walls though so an inch or two of insulation maybe, it does look good. OTOH Eskimos camp in an ice igloo and nobody would tell them it’s not four season 🙂 Point being there is no definition, but I think that if you can be comfortable in your TT in year round conditions then sure, it’s year round. Some TTs might require less energy to be comfortable but otherwise it doesn’t matter, does it? I think the biggest issue is moisture management. I’ll give the prize to the 4 season prize to the one that manages condensation the best, and damn the heating bill

The battery is rated to 131 which is pretty usual for lithium so that’s ok, I just don’t like it. It was a warm March with a heat wave (another 100 year event) and the battery was getting plenty of solar charging so I think it was just conditions. Back coastal it’s normal temps again. Anyhow I’ll try the temp activated fan and do a write up

That’s good to know. Quiet and cool!

Oh yes we do! We have the 5-leaf packs. I replaced all the spring packs, shackles, wet bolts, and U-bolts this week , surprisingly it wasn't too difficult doing it myself. It's nice to have that job behind me though. I know one person that has a 2022 Elite II ( with less than 5000 miles) and one person who has a 2024 Elite II that had flattening spring packs. They have preemptively changed theirs out with Alcans. As others have said, Alcan is great to work with.

If you live south, and have the Dometic Penguin II A/C installed, the Oliver is also merely a 3- season camper! Any season is good when the A/C is OFF! 🤣 First real trial of our Furrion Chill Cube, camping in the Phoenix Valley this week. We turned it on yesterday at 3 PM, been running since. In start-up it pulled 50A on 12VDC. Was down to pulling only 16A, 40 min later. Overnight it was whisper quiet using very low amps. I estimate <25A per hour daily average. Like our friend @FloraFauna, we’re not going on any winter survival trips! This 3-day trip, we ran the A/C, our Suburban HWH (largest power draw -120A) and the Dometic fridge ALL on battery! Still have 50% SOC as we’re breaking camp today. 😎 Yesterday the Victron shunt read 67% SOC. I looked at Chris asking, “you know what that means?” 67% of 900 Ah is equal to 100% SOC when we had our 600 Ah battery bank! Those of you who recently upgraded 300 Ah Battleborn to 600 Ah Epoch, next time you read 50% SOC on the shunt, just smile knowing that was your 100% in years past! So cool…

Not just the older trailers! @Tom and Doreen own a 2023! Hope you have Alcan Springs on all fours now! 😎

The wife refers to it as the “man barn” for my “man toys”!

I totally agree on this one!! We had our curb-side rear spring break on our last trip. I ordered complete sets from Alcan and replaced them yesterday. I expect things to break while dragging the trailer around the country and I'm good with that and actually enjoy fixing / improving things when that happens but I don't expect something as critical as the suspension to break under normal usage. In my opinion that's an unacceptable failure, costly as well as a potential safety concern. From the number of failures on new as well as older trailers the build requirements need to be respecified.

Yes, other than a slight recess at the bottom of the door to prevent water intrusion.

This is all you need. Figured out where you want the wet bolt opening. Weld a little 1/8” x 1:4” x 1” tab perpendicular to the shackle to the inside of the bolt head. Install the bolt in position and only the nut only should spin when torquing. I’ll turn mine some while greasing, prior to torquing maintenance. Mine are all still clean and straight. My thought is Ken’s got that way from less torque. They would not bend if held square. As often as I’m doing regular maintenance, I’m not going to worry. If they look bad years later, I’ll buy a new MOR-Ryde HD shackle set and replace them. 😎 https://shopmorryde.com/products/heavy-duty-shackle-kit

PS SWEET BARN! And Ollie too of course! GJ

Roger, I have a very simular issue but harder. If the approach is level, carefully checking clearance is easy. Mine had a foot tall "ramp" that would kick the rear of our Ollie up about 5" as I backed into the lean-to enclosed area. I removed the gavel floor took out a couple inches of dirt and re-graveled. Still no go. Then I hauled back all that dirt, and a bunch more, and made an elevated area 20' long and 10' wide "Table" in front of the barn door. So I back Ollie up onto the "Table" and then it was an easy back into the "Ollie Cave". Hope yours is a level entry. GJ

They are 6 point, will they work with the cross holes being drilled erratically or will 12 point be needed to get things lined up correctly?

I have extended the awning out a few feet during rains with no issues, the only benefit to be able to keep the windows cracked for fresh air. I really like the CGEAR sand-free mat for a porch treatment. I have even hosed it down a few times with no mud problems, and routinely use the blower to clean leaf and other debris. I place a neoprene mat at the foot of steps, as well.

All good points @FloraFauna couldn't agree more.

The height of my new shop door is exactly 10’ and with a little gain by the Atmos 4.4 a/c there is clearance, but not much. Gonna have to get up there and take an exact measurement before a spring upgrade. Thanks for your response!

Living and camping in Wisconsin and Michigan, I completely agree with your post. See my recent post concerning that big hole in pre-2024 Olivers for the refrigerator venting. I also agree with your comments concerning the Imperial Outdoors' trailers. That said, I decided I am too old to want to camp out in 10 degree and below weather 99.99% of the time - might have been ok when I was 30 years old. The logistics of winterizing and dewinterizing make winter camping less desirable for me. Running and heated water is important to us. And we just don't want to be sitting around the outdoor campsite at 20 degrees nor cooped up in the trailer for any extended time. Even my dogs agree. So, the Oliver works for us and probably most folks, even though it is not a true 4-season camper in my part of the world.

Had problems with trying to include my DIY attachment. Trying again. GJDIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx Yes for splined bolts you MUST do so. Yes, that "someone" was me. Here is my DIY to fix it. Hex Bolt Capture Washers. Only alternative solution would be to replace the tangs and that is much more invasive than the capture washers. GJ