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  1. I was able to remove the aerator at the end of the faucet with a pair of needle nose pliers. Opened the pliers and seated the ends into two of the indents in the aerator. Turned slowly keeping pliers engaged in the slots. Mike
    1 point
  2. Is the "filter" the screen at the end of the faucet? If so, maybe you could soak the whole unit in a solution of a product simular to Lime-a-way. (There are a lot of home made solutions that work too, distilled white vinegar usually involved). Mostly you see them advertised for a showerhead. Maybe a messy step to try to see if that is where the problem lays? You could be off the city water and on the pump system. Shut off the pump. Remove the drawers. Disconnect the hose going to the faucet. Briefly turn on the pump. If water comes out the hose? Problem is surely the faucet. Guess an alternative is to replace the faucet, but would hope that is a last chance solution...
    1 point
  3. You can't get hurt by quickly touching the center caps on the wheels, but they aren't a very good measure of problems either. The infrared thermometer can look at the brake drums though. A failing bearing is likely to make the drum hotter and it will also develop play that you can find by grabbing the top of the tire and then pulling and pushing on it to look for play. This is a good thing to do at the campsite in the morning.
    1 point
  4. The 2 Carefree awnings we have had were far superior to the Fiamma awning we had on our Casita and I for one am looking forward to having the Carefree on hull 305.
    1 point
  5. Knowledge Base Article for proper Winterization - Depending on your location it may be necessary to properly winterize your unit to ensure that freezing conditions do not damage any part of the on board water systems. First lets discuss what components are susceptible to freeze damage which would result in water leaks and potential costly service repairs. Brass Check Valves - These valves are in-line valves that keep water from spilling back out of the water fill ports. These valves will be located on the Fresh Water Line, City Connection Line and the Black Tank Flush Line. Plastic Check Valve - The Dometic Standard toilet has a plastic check valve located at the rear of the toilet. Water Valves - These valves are used to control the flow of water. You may have 2 or 4 valves located next to the water pump, 1 located on the lower shell floor to drain the fresh tank, and 1 located on the black tank flush port line. P-Traps - These are used in the sink and shower drain plumbing lines. It retains water and traps debris that has drained from the sink and prevents it from forming a clog deep within the plumbing system, and stops sewer gases from passing into the camper. Water Pump & Filter - The water pump filter is used to trap debris and keep it from entering the pump and water line system that is delivered to the faucets. PEX Push Fittings - These fittings are used to connect different runs of pex pipe through out the camper. Pex itself is freeze tolerant but these plastic and/or brass fittings are not. Faucets - The kitchen, bathroom and external shower faucets all maintain water at the faucet when in use and thus present a potential freeze issue if not properly winterized. Water Heaters - All water heaters should be fully drained of all water and the bypass valve must be set to winterization/bypass mode. This allows for RV antifreeze to be utilized in the plumbing system without filling the water heater itself. *Proper winterization method to ensure that all components are protected. Drain all water from the system (All tanks, water heaters) Set bypass valve at water heater for winterization mode. Change valve configuration at water pump for winterization mode. Use water pump to draw RV Antifreeze (potable Safe) into the camper. Turn on the kitchen faucet (Cold Line) and run until antifreeze comes out. Change to the Hot line and run until antifreeze comes out. Perform steps 5-6 for the bath faucet. Ensure plenty of antifreeze drains into the P-Traps for the kitchen, bath and shower drains. Flush the toilet until antifreeze starts to fill the bowl. Leave antifreeze in bowl to lubricate seal. Turn off water pump. Connect hand pump with antifreeze to the fresh tank fill connection. Pump at least 3- 4 times. Antifreeze is potable safe and will not hurt if it goes into the fresh tank. Connect hand pump with antifreeze to city connection line, turn external shower cold line on and pump until antifreeze comes through shower faucet. *TIP: It will be hard to pump in the city line if the faucets are closed. Turn cold line off and hot line on, pump until antifreeze comes through shower faucet. Connect hand pump and antifreeze to black tank flush port. (You may have to go inside and turn the in-line valve open to allow the antifreeze to freely pump into the tank. *One pump should be sufficient as we are only protecting the check valve. For 2018 Models and newer you will need 4 pumps to sufficiently protect the new flush port system. This change was put in place to meet new codes for the black tank system ensuring that no backflow of waste water can get inside the water supply line. If you are not certain if your camper is equipped with this new port then pump 4 times to be on the safe side.) FAQs The camper can be used in cold weather applications as long as the furnace is utilized to keep the components warm and above freezing temperatures. If traveling between camp sites during cold weather season it may be necessary to winterize depending on outside temperatures. If water is left in the water heater during freezing temperatures even for short periods of time, it can cause damage. RV Antifreeze is designed to replace water and should NEVER be mixed with water as diluting it will defeat its purpose. 2016-Prior-Elite-II-Valve-Configuration.pdf 2017-Current-Valve-Configuration-Sheet.pdf 18.5-Elite-2017-Current-Valve-Configuration.pdf
    1 point
  6. We’ll see. Matt helped me bump this up the line yesterday and my last contact was that they’re going to get one FedExed in today. So fingers crossed, but I wish I didn’t have to make a stink to get stuff done.
    1 point
  7. As long as there is no water in the hose between the valve,( which is inside the trailer) and the shower nozzle, you should be ok. If you use the outside shower make sure you drain that line.
    1 point
  8. We were at the Bristlecone Pines campground in CA at about 8,500 ft. Got all set up late in the day and I got a campfire going. Then it started to snow. Beautiful. I sat outside in the snow and just marveled at the quiet and the beauty. Poking at the fire and moving closer to stay warm. A libation offered some distraction from the gathering cold and darkness. Liye decided to move inside. Eventually, I moved in too. But looked out the window at the orange glow and fog of snowflakes. Again, totally quiet and we were the only ones there. Miles from anywhere and anyone. The heater clicked on and off during the night and as I noticed it, I also noticed how snug we were. Snow makes the dark forest even quieter. Morning brought the chance to see how much snow we got and start a new adventure going on up to the 10,000 ft level to marvel at the 5,000 year old trees. Bristlecone Pines. One of my favorite places. Through coring and other tree ring methods we can look back 12,000 years with a recorded history. All of this from trees growing in a dolomite soil that was previously a sea bottom. Now, that ancient "sea bottom" is at 10,000 ft elevation. Such are the wonders of the Sierra Nevada Range and plate tectonics. Fun to ponder on a quiet night, camped in the snow with a warm fire crackling. The idea is to lean into it, experience it, marvel at what it is. Try to grasp the enormous amount of time that has passed to form this scene. Living trees that I can reach out and touch, that were alive when the pyramids were being built. But more than that, soil that formed as a sea bed and is now here! Without our beautiful little trailer, we could never come here and have a comfortable winter visit.
    1 point
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