Leaderboard

You're both forgetting about voltage and voltage drop, though, which is the problem with getting DC current directly from a vehicle to the trailer. Yes, there's an inefficiency in converting from DC to AC and back, but it's less than what's lost trying to push a high amp DC charge to the trailer. The required cable size alone is enough to make you want to convert to AC - 20 feet of twin 4/0 cable would weigh a ton and take up a load of space. Yeah, you could charge at lower amps, but the advantage of the big generator in the F150, especially when combined with LFP batteries, is quick, shore power charging which keeps you from having to run the truck for hours. I mean, a 400 HP / 300,000 watt engine idling for 10 hours while you take a minuscule 100 watts or so off of it is the definition of inefficient. For my setup, as I mentioned in the other thread about this, I estimate that I'd need 30 minutes or less charging per day. The biggest question for me is how loud is the truck vs a generator? Truck guys like their loud exhausts, because volume equals manliness I guess, so there are a lot of trucks out there that I wouldn't want to idle in a campground - diesels and my Raptor come to mind. Give the truck a decent muffler, though, and I think a lot of camping neighbors might prefer 15 minutes of that twice a day to a generator.

There seems to be a pretty good thread over on the Fiberglass RV forum you should check out. https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/you-can-repair-fiberglass-52498.html Good luck! Dave

So Oliver does install the breaker switch? I would like to discuss further, but am in the midst of canning peaches right now. As we are still deciding which solar option to order - AGM or Lithium - it all comes down to which system will be less trouble. We do dry camp often; with our current RV system (2-6v flooded deep cycle batteries, 200w solar and 1000w inverter) we have to continually monitor the batteries, even though we don't use a lot of power (no inverter use and onboard generator occasionally). Under these conditions, our solar panels mostly keep the batteries topped off, depending on weather conditions. That being said, here are some of my thoughts: 1. The Oliver lithium solar package would supply more power than we currently use. Not to say we wouldn't use more if we had it. We camp about 50/50 hookup/boondock but prefer boondocking as we enjoy remote outdoor camping vs RV resorts and overpopulated state parks. 2. The upfront cost is greater, but recovered over life of the batteries. Cost is no object if our RV experience can be more enjoyable without having to think so much about batteries. 3. Our energy needs will change with the Oliver. Our motorhome is not 4-season, so it stays parked, for the most part, 4 mos out of the year. Just having more power is attractive, but less power management is our goal. Our decision rests on this factor more than the availabilty of onboard power. It's nice to have reliable power when camping off-grid, but we there are still other limiting factors, the biggest being waste water holding capacty. I've read about the differences in lead-acid vs lithium, but without experience with lithium power we'd like to know if we will see a big difference in the management of our batteries. I'll send you a message when I'm done canning peaches. I do have a lot of questions, especially how lithium batteries are managed during down time. Thanks for reaching out.

If all you want to do is charge batteries.....https://www.centurytool.net/Plug_In_Cable_Kits_s/16302.htm

Susan, It does the same thing as a battery cutoff switch but Oliver does wire the trailer in a way that not everything is cut off. In our trailer, as I assume all others, the propane leak detector is not cutoff by the breaker. We also have a breaker on the positive side of the solar, that can also be tripped. In your example, with your trailer covered, it may not be necessary to trip the solar breaker. If you would like to discuss further, please PM me your phone number. Andrew

Going from DC to AC and finally back to DC involves efficiency losses at each step of the process. It is always better to go DC to DC when practical. I have tried running the Ollie inverter to power an extension cord to run my ARB fridge in the truck. It works way better overall to just use a low voltage cord plugged into the external solar port. Much safer too. Having too many high voltage cords lying around is never prudent. John Davies Spokane WA

Again, I would encourage you to speak with your own cpa. What you are discussing is quite possibly related to vacation homes that are rented part of the year. Sherry

Would you Mainers get upset if a good ole boy from Mississippi crashed that party? It wouldn't take much of an excuse for us come back to Maine. We've been up that way 3 or 4 times and have always enjoyed it.

I am 6'5" 235 lbs. and find it is perfectly functional. The only negative for me is, I tend to hit my head on the upper door frame, if I don't put my hand on it, as I step down to get out. The wife is 5'3" 120 lbs. and is very pleased with it, especially when we have the rare hookups and she can take as long of a shower as she would like. Andrew