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Over the years I have not had all that many situations where I needed to lift the tires (one side at a time) off the ground. In all but one situation I have used the onboard jacks/stabilizers for this purpose. However, there was one situation when I used the jack included with my tow vehicle. With all of my campers owned previous to the Oliver, I simply used a 4 ton bottle jack. If you decide to use the bottle jack, consider preparing a block of wood to accept the rather small head of the jack. Not only does this help prevent the head of the jack from slipping but it also helps distribute the load over a greater surface area when jacking. Bill p.s. (edit) also consider carrying something that can be used to raise the jack higher towards the frame and/or reduce the distance from the jack/stabilizer(s) to the ground. This "something" can be as simple as a couple of 1 or 2 by 6 boards or 6x6 blocks.

Blue water sailers & others who around salt water a lot will use stainless or monel wire. A small spool, available for a few bucks at marine supply outlets like West Marine & commercial fishing suppliers is relatively cheap and will last for many, many years. On our 35' ocean going cutter Light Beyond, we check ground tackle & other shackle pins yearly, applying lanolin to the threads. Even heavy grease works will if renewed regularly

So, today's purchase barely makes it under the $20 limit, at $19 . But, I'm really happy to find it, at Costco. I use a larger wok skillet a lot, at home. This little pan has high sides, 6 inch bottom, and 10 inches across the top. It will be great for cooking veggies, and super for skillet dinners. Should be small enough to fit in the drawer, and the smaller pan bottom still allows air to the smev burner. I'll probably retire the small fry pan I carry. For 13 years, it's been one small pot, one small fry pan.

https://www.instragram.com/gastateparks/ My camper has now made it to the Ga state parks website on Instagram My son took this shot this past summer. Oliver may get some free advertisement from this photo! It is amazing that I was told when I start camping with my Ollie people would ask about it and want to see it. We have camped about 6 times in 6 months and I have been stopped every time as people love the look and quality.

One of the small rubber feet supporting our Dometic D21 Drop-in Cooktop Grill needed replacing. I found an option online that works. It's not the exact size/design as the original, but it does the trick. Actually feels like a more durable rubber compared to the original. https://www.rubberfeetwarehouse.com/products/5-32-inside-diameter-rubber-grommet-fits-1-4-holes

I wouldn't carry a genset on its side, as it would probably mess with the oil. There are tonneau covers made to accomodate tool boxes. Undercover used to do that. Not as waterproof, but gets stuff out of sight/mind. Otherwise, I recommend the battered tomato box. 🙂

Check the second water pump switch switch in the bath. Still nothing, check the wiring at the switch if you don’t have power at the pump. Mossey

I have a Baja style high lift jack from Pro Eagle that can lift the trailer pretty handily. But honestly, I think using it to press the down button on the stabilizer is much more of a hassle than just using your finger. 😜

I've only done the one test but not using the bonded plug was what I needed to do the get power moving through the surge protector. With the eu2200i with co minder I have not explored further yet. Based on all I've read here and elsewhere it was an unexpected result. My understanding is that the eb2200i is neutral bonded to the generator frame but that my model is not. It's a head scratcher but I haven't broken out the multimeter to see what's going on there...

I think this could be a very cool solution (pun intended) for when you are on shore power. I actually don’t think it needs to be inside a furnace duct at all. The spaces under the floor are all essentially tied together by the huge gaps at the front and rear of the water tanks. You already have a great big air inlet at the curb side, for the furnace air. How about this....? Mount your fan under the front dinette seat, if you can tolerate a loss of storage, or alternately under the rear one (use plastic ductwork because of the high voltage there). Leave its intake wide open and duct the outlet air into the cabin through a 4” hole cutout. Put your space heater on the floor in the middle, facing backwards. Warm air will tend to pool near the back and will get sucked into the furnace grill. It will then flow all around the basement, through your new fan and out the front grill. No dampers needed. It might be fine with the furnace running (the suction could disrupt air entering the furnace box), but OTH I don’t think it would at all be needed when you are heating with propane. In summer it will suck out the hot air from under the floor and cabinets and provide some extra cabin air circulation, as you commented. I do think you should add holes in your battery box for the lithium battery area to ventilate. It consists of two closed and nested cubes and traps heat if the door vents are sealed. I don’t think you need nearly as much as 160 cfm for heating, but in summer it would provide a nice blast of air. Research “bilge blower” in some power boat forums for some ideas, that is what essentially you are building. Look at 4” marine blower fans, I am not sure what is available in 120 volts AC, maybe there are some. Good luck. John Davies Spokane WA

Reminds me of the saying that you don't need to be able to outrun a bear. You just have to run faster than your friend.