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There are a bunch of very cool Corps of Engineers CGs in eastern WA, they have been mostly shut down completely or very limited in the number of available sites... The Lake Roosevelt National Recreational Area ones are going to be full reservation, and you be able to reserve the same day you arrive - as long as you have a cell signal! - which is a big change. These are nicely maintained and very cheap with the 1/2 off Geezer Pass, I just stayed at Kettle Falls CG four nights (pre-season) and it cost a total of $28. A whole lot of them used to be first come first served, which can be a huge problem in summer, because they are quite remote and it was risky in terms of finding a spot other than during mid-week. A 100% reservation policy means you can check availability at Recreation.gov and nail down a spot before you hit the road. https://www.nps.gov/laro/learn/news/update-on-camping-access.htm https://www.lrf.org/recreation/lake-guide I haven’t heard about Bureau of Reclamation or other Federal agencies, but I went by one BOR location near Othello several weeks ago and there was a landscaping crew hard at work cleaning up debris and cutting the grass, so I am very hopeful that they will reopen too.. All these are maintained with toilets and maybe showers, and dump stations, but no hookups. HIGHLY recommended, they are my favorites in Washington. The ones with boat launches are busiest. The ones without, and those in the upper reaches near Canada, are normally lightly used, especially when the lake level is low and the shores turn into sand banks. Kettle River COE (not yet open for camping) last week: View from across the river showing the typical Spring low water level, it should be near full pool height by July: Here is Kettle Falls CG: . These CGs are typically sparsely treed and cleared of undergrowth (unlike Wet Side campgrounds (Puget Sound) which tend to be lush, dark and buggy) and they can have decent solar exposure for at least a few hours, if you pick a spot carefully with a south or west exposure. Google Earth is your friend! A portable panel is helpful, and a generator. It can be very hot in the summer. John Davies Spokane Wa

Some new F150 news - The truck is getting an active suspension upgrade, which should improve towing stability; and a new onboard ride height sensor that will act as a self weigh feature. The self weigh includes software that will tell you when you're within the proper tongue weight - looks very useful for loading flatbeds but probably of little use for travel trailers. I also don't remember anyone mentioning the new F150 Tremor, which is going to be kind of a Raptor light. It will get a beefier suspension, slightly higher clearances, and most importantly, the Raptor's transfer case - and of course a higher tow limit than the Raptor. Looks like it might be a nice option if you don't want the full blown Raptor nor the F250 Tremor.

I just saw that Garmin has released a "small" update for the 890. Apparently this update is for the iOverlander portion and brings it up to date. This might be helpful for those that are soon to be on the road to the "Non-Rally". Bill

I did search “storage Elite I” etc. And came up empty. Can any Elite I owners verify that these Elite II storage cubby pics and features and sizes/locations are the same on Elite I (2021)? Or I can start a new thread (or a mod can move this or delete it?). I have wondered if there are enough diffs between I and II to warrant making a new “section” on the forum for Elite I stuff? Maybe?

Simple - Re-review the video at the top of this thread. As I recall, there are eight zerks per side for a total of 16. 12 of the 16 are easily seen but the others at the top where the Dexter attach to the frame can be a bit more difficult to see. Wipe off the zerk, attach you grease gun, pump grease until you see new grease coming out from around the bolt, remove grease gun, clean up mess and excess grease from around the Dexter and zerk. If you have them attach a zerk cap to help keep the zerk clean. Complete the first side, have an adult beverage and then complete the other side and call it a day.😃 Bill

I did the same as Townesw. I like to feel the hubs to check temperature during fuel stops. Plus I also think they look better with the covers removed.

Tractor Supply zerk shopping tip: Zerks are packaged in smaller quantities and are more expensive per piece in the tractor parts section at Tractor Supply. Zerks in the Hardware or Autos section of the same store have more per package and cost less per piece. Probably a made in USA vs made elsewhere issue. Quality may or may not follow price. I replaced most of my straight ones with angled zerks. Much better for avoiding contortions under the trailer.

Any old sharp bits or fine tooth metal blades or hole saws will be fine. Don't use coarse ones, or those intended for wood. TAPE THE AREA FIRST to prevent slips and foul language. I like the 3M blue masking tape, it can remain on for a week without getting hard to remove. Wear vinyl gloves, and use a coarse sandpaper afterwards to remove all the sharp bits, 80 grit wet or dry is fine. There is a reason it is called fiberGLASS! those shards can go under a fingernail or into your skin, and being transluscent, they can be hard to see and retrieve with tweezers. So it is best to avoid getting skewered in the first place. Drilled holes for screws should be countersunk slightly to remove the white gelcoat, otherwise it can crack and flake off when you drive in the screw. It is not at all hard, just take care and wear a mask for any dust. I like to place a shop vac hose close by, tape it to the surface if you need to, and run the vac while drilling. That will take care of 80% of the mess. Place some paper towels on the other side of the panel to catch debris that falls on that side, which is usually minimal for drilled holes, but it can be significant if you are using a jigsaw or sabersaw…. If the panel has a no core or a glass core, no worries; OTH if it has a wood core like the bathroom partition, you must seal the newly exposed wood to prevent moisture entry and rot. Several coats of marine spar varnish (clear) works great. Take a look at this thread, there are lots of holes there: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5301-how-to-lithium-battery-powered-vent-system/ Post pictures! John Davies Spokane WA

Since these zerks come in a number of sizes, I've always simply taken out the old one and used it to make sure that I either got the right replacement from the workshop or from the local NAPA dealer (I'm sure that Tractor Supply and others will have them too). Yes, they simply screw out. Other than a general surface cleaning to make sure the threads don't have a bunch of dirt in them I've never gone on a deep dive for cleaning - the new grease should take care of that. Before you throw out that old zerk - give the little ball in the end a light tap with a drift or nail set tool to see if you can get it un-stuck. Perhaps a little brake cleaner or "Liquid Wrench" (after you have taken it out) will loosen it up too. If that works, then you have a spare for the next time. Finally, look at the one you are replacing and think about if an angled zerk would make the job easier. These angled zerks are about the same price as the standard straight ones. Bill

Good idea on a separate thread specifically for Elite I stuff. It just might make it easier for members to find in the future. Also, I thought you said somewhere that your pup is a black lab. Certainly labs don't generally have a "license to kill" 😄 Bill