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More detail to follow. In the next pic you can see the electrical switches and wiring. Yes, it's a bit complex to keep them all straight. A shout-out and thank-you to @ScubaRx for suggesting motorized valves wired to DPDT switches. Once you get the X-pattern of the wiring they're not complicated. After taking the picture, I wrapped each switch with electrical tape to keep the terminals in place. Each motorized valve has a rubber-lined steel U-bracket underneath the main bracket for support. It was the only way to do it considering the height of the plumbing and the installed bracket height. The structure is rather solid once it was all tied together. Lastly the toggle switches to the exterior. I drilled three 12 mm holes about 2" apart, in a straight line just 3" below the bed frame. The default setting is ALL switches up, for what OTT calls "Normal Camping Position." I wrote up an instruction sheet (PDF below, with a borrowed OTT graphic), but believe me, after all this work I have the settings down! Water Valve Switches.pdf

Very nice write-up! I really like your recommendation for the Remco USA made pump. Thanks for sharing that. For winterization, OTT recommends getting 2 gallons of RV antifreeze. I always get three and have some left over. With the additional fixtures involved, I suggest owners using your approach to get that extra gallon. for some locations may not necessary, but if your Ollie is subject to HARD freezes, it is far better to not skimp on a $4 gallon of antifreeze.

Yes, I talked with the Truma center in Lakeland Florida yesterday and they stated that code is "fan speed too slow". In conversation, the tech stated that more than likely I had a mechincal fan failure and the unit would need to be replaced. Being that their repair center is only 2 hours from us, we are scheduled in Feb to have looked at or replaced. So a little bit of a wait but very happy to have Truma actually doing the work.

A bit pricey, but they don’t expire, have a long discharge time, and are small enough to fit in the door pocket of most vehicles. Santa was good to me. I’m going to buy a couple more.

Wow Steve that's some great investigative work. So much that as the Chairman of the Oliver Rabbit Hole Society, I hereby bequeath upon you a lifetime membership at the Professional Level. At this level you have the rights to the title of "Chief Rabbit Hole Excavator". Congratulation!

Contact Service and I'm guessing that they will ship you some new caps. Then, when you install these simply put something like E6000 or any similar product on the backs of the caps and that will keep them from "falling off". Bill

Topgun2 referred to the "date code" on each tire. Each tire will have a 4 digit number you can find on the sidewall. The first two numbers will be the week of the year and the last two will be the year. So, a "3222" code will tell you the tire was manufactured in the 32nd week of 2022. LT tires may show wear on the treads to indicate degradation, but ST tires treads can appear robust even after many, many miles, hiding the fact that they are "tired" and worn out. Failure to maintain proper inflation and loading within limits are the things that risk failure. An under inflated tire will result in excessive flexing of the sidewall as it rotates down to the bottom and bulges before swinging around the rest of the revolution. This repetitive motion may cause internal friction in the sidewall and overheating, leading to failure. Using a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) is a great way to avoid this. The Wonder Egg gets new shoes whenever they are 6 years old.

Wait, how do I achieve this level of Rabbit Holiness? This is literally my life dream.

Ever since getting my Oliver I have loved modifying different aspects of it. I have done a bunch of stuff to the electrical system such as going mostly Victron for all components except for the inverter. Here is my latest mod which consisted of building an aluminum rack and adding 3 200 watt Newpowa solar panels for a total of 600 watts onboard. They will feed into a Victron 100/50 SCC. Just got the panels installed today and will be working on the connections tomorrow. I also need to fabricate a bracket for the front panel for a little more security but overall it is very solid. 😛

No "1/2" PEX crimp system has a true 1/2" inside diameter (I.D.). No 1/2" PEX system has as much I.D. as a 1/2" copper system. That is why I installed 3/4" PEX lines, instead of 1/2", to high-demand fixtures in our home, such as the bathtub filler valves. That said, the 1/2" PEX crimp system in our Hull #1291 has worked fine for us. I would not want a water system capable of higher flow. Why? The limited size of the gray tank. We try to use water sparingly, to minimize how often we must dump the gray tank. With a plumbing system that small (compared to most homes systems), and with distances from the pump to the fixtures relatively short, we have not wanted increased flow rates at the kitchen or bathroom sinks.

Patience, young grasshopper, all will revealed to you when the time is right. C.R.H.E.

If you have to ask then this exalted position is well above your station in this life - sorry. Well said. However through exhaustive study and practice, I have learned that some are engineers who definitely were born with a warped sense of humor.

If you have to ask then this exalted position is well above your station in this life - sorry.

Yes - those fish in the streams and all those fire prone trees, bushes, etc. really need that winter snow for moisture.

Neat find, can you send your Santa to Western NC? 😄 Here is a link to more info and prices. I like that it has pretty solid reviews, leaves no residue, is fairly compact and no expiration date. https://elementfire.com/collections/allproducts FAQs -https://elementfire.com/pages/faq Amazon -https://www.amazon.com/UTVDistribution-Element-Extinguisher-Mounting-Magnet/dp/B0C1WL9KLC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=element+fire+extinguisher&qid=1704286282&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 Patriot🇺🇸

That's true for many. Others plug in all the time. I'm not even considering this for the boat, as we haven't had to "plug in" the last six years, since we added solar. Everyone's camping style is different. But, I'm glad Oliver continues with a relatively affordable industry standard connection. The price of smart plug cords, for a rv, is ridiculous, imo. But, each to his own style. If someone else balances cost vs convenience, and convenience wins, I'm no one to judge.

I like either the suggested plusnut or Rivet Nuts for Plastic and Composites solutions better than a rivet nut for your project. I have used rivet nuts in fiberglass, but always put a washer on the back side before crushing. The washer spreads the load and greatly reduces the potential for pullout indued cracking from the back side. The use of a washer with either of these two other methods would also be suggested if any significant loads are anticipated as required by a specific application. For this project of course not needed. GJ

Thank you for this, and maybe we should move to a new thread? Would that be ok with you? @Jps190 Will Prowse was very impressed with the epoch battery. We will have to replace our boat batteries this year, and Epoch is now a serious consideration. Ip67 rated. They also have a lifepo4 starter battery. (Most boats with lithium house bank retain a lead acid starter battery, for cranking amps.) Btw, how long have you had Epoch in the golf cart? For those interested, here's a link to Will's review of the Epoch 460.

I recently did a fairly deep dive on lithium battery powered leaf blowers in attempting to come up with the best blower to use after washing our rig. I wanted a cordless blower since I occasionally wash our truck and Ollie while on the road. Yep, we like a clean rig, just us.😊 This YouTuber does a a pretty decent in-depth comparison of (8) battery powered blowers. His info helped me finally decide to purchase the EGO Lithium powered 765. So today with my Lowe’s Veterans discount I paid $296.10 for the EGO 765 with charger, 56v battery and attachment's. I ordered the shorter nozzel/tube with silicone tip soft tip off Amazon. This shorter nozzel/tube seems to be much easier way to maneuver the blower while drying a car or truck. The 765 will travel with us in the bed of our truck. After charging the battery and briefly testing out the EGO 765 on our rain soaked Ford Ranger today, I am initially very impressed with its water removal/drying power. It will be interesting to see how well it will perform regarding battery run time on our rig. I will post up additional info after putting the EGO 765 through its paces. A clean shiny rig makes a for a happy rig owner!😄 Patriot🇺🇸 https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=ego leaf blower https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQMR622L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure!! I have had the golf cart batteries for around 9 months and they have performed flawlessly. John

Really, you're thinking 80" wide? It seems like mine stick out enough sideways at 52" wide. And BTW, if you're thinking 3 panels, it almost doesn't matter at 78x80" total, but 3 panels would install easier sideways. Yeah, the OE2 is 7 FT wide, but not at the roof and then the very top it is much narrower. I would go with 2 mounted lengthwise, if it were me. The antenna is an easy move, though you would likely have to run the coax on the roof for a foot +/-. You would seal that opening and the newly installed panels would then cover the current opening. I'm working and more day out there today (just finished the sanitize process). I'm going to take some more measurements for you, like how much length between the bathroom fan and the MaxFAN. More later...

"some" ??????????????????😁

Chris and John: Thank you! Roger I snipped the wrong picture from OTT. Have deleted it above. I went deep into my pictures and snipped this one of our roof line. We just have up front the Omni Antenna, vent stack and bath fan. The Yuma Copper Iridium Gallium Selenide (CIGS) panels are rated at 200 watts and are roughly 26" X 80" in size. Ollie is 7' wide with two puff up/downs along the width of the roof. As such, dimensionally they will easily fit on our roof running starboard and port (S/P) direction with room to spare. With your measurements in mind: Without moving the antenna we can easily get two each 200 watt panels laid S/P. If I relocate antenna, it appears that we may be able to get three of the 26" wide panels laid aft of the bathroom fan and vent stacks. Granted laying the panels over the vertical roof section and their run up/down curved sections will reduce the outputs of the panels likely in the 8% range. "ASS of U & ME" such would de-rate the panels to 184 watts (maximum calculated) output. One of the significant benefits of these panels in partial shade is that they only de-rate by the shade over the sections shaded. Unlike many other systems, partial shade impacts the entire panel. For planning purposes, I'm going to assume only 175 watts max output. So, conservatively we are looking at getting maybe easily 350 watts or maybe 525 watts of power if we relocate roof penetrations. Point is go get what we can with virtually zero aerodynamic drag, and far less visual pollution to boot. I have sent the MFG Rep a series of questions about their panels, and will update this thread with their responses. GJ

They are also certified for A, B, C, and K class fires.

I noticed that you said chairs twice. Ooof. How many, exactly, are we talking about here, my dude?

Hey @Geronimo John, I measured today as promised. The double panel on our hull measures 58 1/4" long (front to back) and 52 7/16" wide (width of 2 panels). Our roof layout looks quite different vs. your picture. I know you have an OE2, but your picture looks like maybe it's an OE1. I have the Winegard Sat up front, then about a foot of length, then the panels and 2-3" to the MaxxFAN. The pic above goes from bathroom vent to MaxxFAN all the length of the panel. I noticed a serial # Z2015071020403 on mine today, so thinking it's a Zamp panel. The measurements of the panels are within an 1/8" of these, two 170W panels, 340W total: Amazon.com: Zamp Solar Legacy Series 170-Watt Roof Mount Solar Panel Expansion Kit. Additional Solar Power for Off-Grid RV Battery Charging - KIT1009 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Post up a pic if you can. I would be interested to hear your review of the snowblower. Hopefully you won’t get too much winter weather.

While you folks are enjoying your EGO wind blowers I'm getting ready to put our EGO snow blower to work for the first time. Think I'd rather be washing the Ollie...

60 PSI is an acceptable pressure level for most home plumbing. But, your home plumbing system does not get towed on bumpy roads. I would ask the Oliver Service Department if 60 PSI is acceptable for the plumbing parts they install. For example, I note that Oliver uses plastic push-to-connect fittings for many of its pex connections these days. Are those rated to 60 PSI? As you noted in other text, the more likely source of low faucet water flow is clogged filters, screens and aerators, not the pressure at the pump.

FYI, sharkbite makes another line of connectors (evoPEX) that gives you a green indicator when you have a true connection. It's a little more pricey than sharkbite, but could be worth it in certain situations. I bought a few by accident, when lowes was out if stock on typical sharkbite. Especially on hard to reach areas, it's a little added insurance.

I have not tried our new EGO 765 out yet on drying vehicles or the Oliver on SPA day. The optional tip really dials in the full on after burner jet air speed Vaaaaroom! 😄 It’s full On 💯 the most powerful blower I have ever owned. I also like how compact it is for stowing in the TV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQMR622L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What will your truck cargo/payload capacity be when loaded ready to camp? This was a very important number for our style of camping. We really considered the new Tundra, it fell too short in payload capacity. 1400 + lbs was not enough payload capacity to allow us to lawfully and safely carry our gear ready to camp. With our 1 ton diesel payload is not a concern. It really boils down to how you plan to travel and camp. Patriot🇺🇸

We use a Craftsman leaf blower that uses the same Li battery all our other Craftsman hand tools use (drill motors, saws, angle grinders, LED light, vacuum, etc.) - it's handy to use to blow out Husky hair from the interior of the TV as well as the Casa Blanca... WOOF!

GJ, I can measure mine tomorrow afternoon. Will update asap.

While it would work right out of the box with virtually any RV, the EEL (Easily Engaged Lock) is marketed toward the marine industry. In looking at the stats, it doesn’t seem to offer any earth shattering benefits over the twist lock cord that came with our Oliver’s. You still have to line up the terminals, twist it into place and release the locking ‘wings’.

I took the time and read up on the 'Smart' Plug. I didn't find any evidence that the Smart Plug is a better product than the power receptacle that was supplied when the Oliver was delivered. But, wanting to give it the benefit of the doubt and in the interest of sharing accurate and reliable product information, I offer the following information: From their website, under the heading About Smart Plug: Our vision... Smart Plug Systems is a privately held manufacturing firm specializing in power delivery systems. It was founded in 2007 and is located in Seattle, WA. Its flagship product, the SmartPlug, is a patented device positioned to replace the current power delivery system for RV’s, Boats, and a variety of specialty vehicles and miscellaneous industrial applications. Every corporation has to have a Vision Statement, Right? Designed to be versatile Developing and providing innovative world-class solutions that make power delivery safer, more secure, and easier to use. Continuing our aggressive growth strategy and expanding far beyond the domestic recreational power delivery market to industries and geographic locations that can leverage our technology. We’re just getting started Establishing strategic partnerships and building long-term relationships with our suppliers, customers and the consumer. Sustaining a preferred work environment that will create positive share-holder value while maintaining a high level of innovation, quality, and customer service. This nothing but corporate techno-babble and tells us nothing about the Smart Plug. Here is additional BS from their website... Contrary to popular belief, the #1 cause of shore power failure and fires is not electrical shorting, but rather overheating caused by poor electrical conductivity. This is very true...but, on our Oliver’s, not for the reasons stated below How does this happen? The problems with many plug designs are that the shape of electrical pins allow for very little contact area, and the pins themselves are also largely responsible for bearing any physical stress placed on the cord (from constant movement of the boat, someone tripping on the cord, etc…) This is partly correct. There is plenty of surface contact area on the standard Oliver supplied power cord. Last I checked these are NOT boats moving around while attached to shore power. This results in the pins working loose, further lessening the precious little contact area they had to begin with. Furthermore, such loose connections allow for moisture intrusion and ultimately corrosion of the pins. This does Not apply in our situations. Arcing occurs and the connection heats up, scorches, and in some cases, catches fire. Because the current draw is unchanged, all of this happens long before a breaker or a GFCI can cut the power. Additionally, the old design can be very difficult to use in low light or hard-to-reach scenarios since the “L” shaped pin must first be located and then oriented before connection. The actual #1 cause of shore power failure and fires is not electrical shorting, but rather overheating caused by poor electrical conductivity, not from the pins in the connectors but from the screw connections between the pins and the supply wires not being tight. This has been the source of the problem in every overheating situation I’ve seen or heard about concerning Our Oliver's. Then I decided to go right to one of the vendor’s that supply this product for their say in the matter. In about an hour long chat session, this was revealed... Ashley: Hi! Can we answer a question for you? If not, feel free to close out this box. Steve: I am curious about your Smart Plug product. I am familiar with the plethora of other "smart" products like smart phones, thermostats that can be adjusted via an app on my phone, Alexa etc. What is it about this product that makes it Smart? 'SMART' OBJECTS Ashley: Hi Steve! Let me get you some information for you Ashley: There really is no "Smart" Feature as you are thinking about, but here is the description: SmartPlug is the highest quality electrical plug in the RV industry. This is the ultimate solution to replacing your standard twist plug, and it completely eliminates typical heat issues due to poor electrical contact. The standard twist plug that comes on many RVs has problems with electrical transfer because of minimal contact from the plug to the inlet. The SmartPlug has 27 times more contact and this makes for efficient electrical transfer and drastically reduces the heat on the plug. If you have a standard twist plug on your RV then you need to get that changed to the Smart Plug today! Steve: What is the amount of surface area that is contained in the Smart Plug in square inches? I'm confused about how their contacts are 27x larger than normal. Ashley: Let me see if I can find you a video I am going to post a link below to one of our Installation videos. Let me know if it helps https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTkd_nMW-sw Steve : Let me take a quick look at the video. I have other questions. Ashley: Ok, sure Steve: This appears to be nothing more than an installation video. Can you tell me more about the claim that this product has 27x the surface contact area of other plugs. How was that determined. For instance, if a standard RV plug has say 2 square inches of surface area spread between the contact legs then your claim would be that your plug has 54 square inches. How is this possible? Ashley: I am not exactly sure why the manufacture claims that. I am trying to find some more information on it. Steve: OK, Thanks... Ashley: "27x more electrical contact than the old twist type connector" This is all I can find; I am unable to get an exact explanation. Steve: Thank you for all your help Ashley. But can we agree that this plug is really no better or worse than a standard plug and there is no way to cram in 54 square inches of contact surface area? Yes, No? Ashley: Apparently, they are claiming that is 27x more that the "Old Twist Plug" According to your logic, no it does not make sense. However, I couldn't find enough of an explanation to really say one way or the other what exactly they are comparing it to. Steve: Ashley, I want to apologize to you for putting you on the spot like this. I realize that you could not possibly know all the technical details of the products your company sells. I just could not find this information published anywhere, and I wanted to see if there was information I was missing. I'm sorry. You're a good sport. Ashley: Absolutely! No need to apologize, I couldn't find it either and you brought up a very good point. It is extremely vague about what they are comparing it to. I would like to think I know enough about what we sell but sometimes, unfortunately, I met my match. Is there anything else I can help you with today? Steve: No, we’re good. Ashley: Ok! Have a good day! I didn't find any evidence that this is a better product than the power receptacle that was supplied when the Oliver was delivered. If any of you want to change your plugs out, go ahead. Or, you could just make sure the screws are tight instead.

Same. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. All the twist locks I've used over the years work fine with the exception of that ridiculously flimsy, woefully and ineffectively threaded, plastic locking ring.

In watching a video wherein two CIGS panels (each 14”x85”x100W) were applied to a sailboat deck, care was taken to avoid adherence of these panels directly in contact with the fiberglas gelcoat; reason being difficulty of removal and potential damage to the gelcoat in doing so. Rather, the panels were positioned in select areas where a non-skid surface treatment was already applied, the thought being that removal of that surface treatment along with the affixed panels would be easier and lessen any chance of gelcoat damage. That said, a similar practice may be of benefit with an Oliver rooftop install. I too like the advantage of said panels, as they can be laid to conform with design curvatures while maintaining a low profile appearance, aerodynamics and “architectural beauty”!

Before even considering a larger aftermarket tranny cooler, I would reconfigure the factory gauges (as instructed by Tom and Doreen, and ridenfly above). If that doesn't work, you can get a scan gauge to provide transmission temp data under load. Veepeak sells an inexpensive one on Amazon for Android phones that plugs into your OBDII port, and reports tons of engine and transmission data to your phone via the OBD Fusion app: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you have an iphone, Veepeak also sells a somewhat more expensive version. I installed one in my 2019 Tundra, which reported transmission pan temps as high as 265 F recently, pulling up a hill on a hot day. Even with synthetic ATF, that is higher than my comfort level. I'll bet that even when towing your Elite II up a hill, you won't see temps above 230 F with your factory trans cooler. Which ever solution you choose, please report your results on this thread!

I have never had an issue with the twist lock style plugs. For me, it’s a solution in search of a problem.

Wondering how this is better than the standard twist-lock. Reviewers talk about standard cords with melted connectors or arc damage on standard cords. Melted connectors are usually caused by operating large draws like the A/C with low campground voltage (a problem addressed by the Progressive EMS), or by loose connections. The standard twist-lock should provide ample connection surfaces if it is used correctly (twisted to the locked position). As far as arc damage, that will happen to any connector that is disconnected under load. The pedestal breaker should be opened before disconnecting the cord. The same would be true with the Smart Plug. With a special plug like this, you'd have trouble sourcing a quick replacement if something happened to it, while standard cords are available at every RV shop and replacement plugs/receptacles at any Home Depot. And what is "The retro-fit connector...designed to be used with your existing cord"? If it's an adapter that goes on the end of your regular cord, you still have a twist-lock in the system. I'd need a lot more convincing before purchasing.