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Initially I ordered mine also without the side label. But, Anita talked me out of that and I'm glad she did. Her reasoning was that if there was something on the Oliver that told people what it was, the number of times I would be "bothered" in a campground or out on the road would be dramatically reduced. I think that she was correct - as she is with most things. 😁 Bill

I actually ordered Twist WITHOUT the nose logo. My reasoning was that this area is a target for bugs. Since gelcoat is easier to clean than a decal, I just figured that it would save me a bunch of time and trouble over the years I planned to keep my Ollie. So far, I still feel that I was correct. Bill

Li'l Ollie because it's a Hillbilly from the mountains of East Tennessee.

I forgot about those marker lights on the nose. Does that make it more "balanced with the rear "Oliver third brake light"? 🤪

Sure - but you look sooooo good in that "skimpy two-piece!

My 2020 wasn’t ordered totally naked, I did opt for the rear-side label and hull number in a very subtle metallic silver for an additional $25 charge; at the time all decals were standard.

I have a step by step on how I did my change out.

Midnight blue and silver gray.

Nice @CRM, the markers are cool, one of a kind! Your new logo looks like a reverse pattern of our original, with the gray and black switched. The black (or blue) looks to match the rear label. Is it black or midnight blue? Chris says I'm color-blind. 😎

JD and all, Thank you!

Yes, I applied a new front logo too. If I can't find a pic I'll take one tomorrow. There's been a change of plan and it looks like I be able to install my new Turbro unit a little early!

@Wandering Sagebrush The one I linked above looks slightly different but is an equal replacement. My original one was the same as yours. They both work the same way in that the handle will pause the water flow. The new works like the original, looks nicer and the rubber seal doesn't leak!

@jd1923- Looks like you have the old style "Legacy Elite" graphic like mine had. To keep things original, I tried to get that one when I ordered my decals but they said that they were no longer available. Kind of glad they weren't since the newer style is much nicer, IMHO...

I get it for sure. Take a look at our "nose logo." There's a small section of the decal missing bottom-right that came off with my pressure washer. I don't get too close to the logo anymore when washing. 🤣 My side stripes are in like new condition, whether you like them or not. Given the two-tone color of my truck with gray lower sections, I like that the graphics on our Oliver are in gray & black. The logo and striping complement the colors of our truck. So perhaps our future is in getting a new proper front logo in gray & black, or perhaps I strip it off and shine up a big naked nose front of our hull? Thanks Bill @topgun2 for looking into this! 😂

At this point I do not know if these are still produced in house or are sourced externally. But, (hopefully) I'll have more answers to all of these questions soon. Bill

You're not alone and (as I mentioned) this was one of the reasons that Oliver stopped supplying them. Other reasons were that the side stripes were difficult to apply properly (and the lady that did that job moved on to other things) and, of course, it saves material costs in both producing them and applying them. Bill

https://www.amazon.com/OFFO-Converter-Coupling-Bathroom-Plumbing/dp/B0CZ46SVY9/?th=1

Certainly a viable solution that a few Houghton owners have pursued with great success! However, concerns of voiding the unit’s warranty with wiring modifications to the fan and relay installation was likely a deterrent for many. Thanks for sharing and being “part of the Oliver Universe”, much appreciated!

I eliminated the control box and used this Thermostat for the Heater. Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Pro-Digital 2-Wire Heat Only

IIRC, the Dometic thermostat used originally for the Dometic Turbojet Penguin A/C, had a digital communication protocol to the control box located in the Penguin. This box had a couple of relays that were used to control the Suburban furnace. There are a few posts somewhere on this forum on how I (and others) modified that box to continue to work with the Suburban. Others have replaced the Dometic thermostat with a more conventional "analog" style to work when they removed the Penguin.

I asked ChatGPT. Seems I will need a separate thermostat for the furnace now since I'm removing the Dometic control board. ------------------------------------ 🧩 What You Have Now That wiring harness under your Dometic Penguin II is the thermostat communication/control loom for your Dometic wall thermostat. It’s a 12 V DC control system (not 120 V). The loom carries low-voltage signals for both the A/C and the Suburban furnace (via the Dometic control board). The Dometic system acted as a “hub” — your thermostat told the A/C control box what to do, and that box sent the furnace signal out on the blue wire when “heat” was called for. When you remove the Penguin II and its control box, you break that communication path. The Suburban furnace won’t get its 12 V heat-call signal anymore unless you rewire it to a simple independent thermostat. 🧰 What You Need To Do So the Furnace Still Works Since your new Tosot A/C runs entirely off its own remote, you can leave those Dometic control wires disconnected and instead wire the furnace directly to a standard 12 V RV thermostat (or reuse your existing wall thermostat if it supports direct furnace control). Option 1 – Add a small 12 V mechanical/electronic thermostat just for the furnace Find the two furnace control wires coming from the Suburban unit (typically blue and white, sometimes blue/white stripe). Those are the “thermostat loop.” When connected together, the furnace runs. Route those two wires to a simple RV thermostat (like the Honeywell TH1100DV or Dometic single-stage heat only). Connect them to the “R” and “W” (or “+” and “–”) terminals — polarity doesn’t matter on a basic furnace circuit. Cap or tape off all the old Dometic A/C control wires safely; they’ll be unused. Option 2 – Reuse the existing Dometic wall thermostat (only if it has a furnace setting and can directly switch 12 V) If your Dometic wall stat is one of the basic analog models with a heat switch, you can bypass the old A/C control box: Connect the furnace’s two thermostat wires directly to the furnace terminals on that thermostat. Ignore all the data-bus or multi-wire cable that went to the A/C. If your wall thermostat is digital and used an RJ-11 phone-type cable, it won’t work standalone — you’ll need a new simple furnace thermostat.

There are pics of the new models on the Oliver FB page and the ones I saw do have the front Oliver logo. Can tell they're the new models since they have the new tilt out windows.

I have a Houghton that I installed and experienced the problem with the humidity. At the time I had not heard about the Cielo workaround but I did read on this forum about installing a relay to control the fan and the need to disconnect the existing temperature sensor and add a new one with a longer lead. I mounted that by the factory installed thermostat. This cured all my problems. I know this doesn't answer your question about the Cielo workaround with a Houghton but since I'm part of the Oliver Universe and own a Houghton AC I wanted to reply.