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This is a confusing topic even for some electricians, but adding a new 120 volt, 30 amp RV outlet in your garage, or outside, will require GFCI protection per 2023 NEC. However, adding a building extension usually does not require that you update existing wire to code. That would be up to your particular jurisdiction. Most of the common home panel manufactures offer 120 volt, 30 amp GFCI breakers for around $60. Check your panel label because many have interchangeable breakers like Murry and Siemens or Eaton and Cutler Hammer. It's also acceptable to use one leg of a 240 volt GFCI breaker to feed a 120 volt circuit.

I thought I read something a while back that the new code requires GFCI protection in a residential setting but RV parks were exempt. Don't have a new code book but will see what I can find. Edit: looks like the updated NEC 2023 code 210.8(A) does include any 125 through 250 volt outlets installed in a garage or accessory building be GFCI protected. The code covering RV parks was not updated so only pedestal outlets 20 amp and under are still required to be GFCI protected. Contact your local construction services dept to see if they've even adopted the new code or not, and if they have, I would just install a 30 amp single pole GFCI breaker for that outlet.

Like BIll, I don’t know of anyone who has moved their switches. If they are in the back you would be able to monitor the jack on that side but not the other side. I prefer them on the front so I can use the bubble level on the front jack to get the trailer approximately level. I’ve found that when retracting the jacks I estimate about an inch per second, then I do a visual check before finishing. Mike

Tony - I agree - this should not be a difficult mod. However, I do not recall any post from the past that talked about actually doing this. Good luck. Bill

I have prepared this post in the hope of saving any of you who do your own electrical wiring from going down the same "rabbit hole" I just did. Per the title of this post, 30A RV receptacles (outlets) are not required by the NEC (National Electrical Code) to be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protected. How do I now know? Read on. I am wiring an addition to my detached garage, where I store our Hull #1291. When the original garage was built, the NEC (and Idaho Code) only required ground level 120V 15A and 20A outlets to be GFCI protected. The original garage passed electrical inspection, because the one and only ground level outlet in that garage was a GFCI. The 30A RV outlet next to it was approved, even though it is not GFCI. The 20A garage door opener receptacle (on a separate 20A circuit) near the 14-ft. ceiling was also approved without GFCI, because it is so high off the floor. So was a separate 15A lighting circuit, which feeds other receptacles at ceiling level (into which LED UFO lights are plugged), as they are all 14 ft. off the floor. When adding circuits for the addition into the existing subpanel in that detached garage, I checked for amendments to the NEC relating to garages. I knew that when you add to an existing structure, the entire structure must usually be upgraded to meet current electrical code. I learned that the current code (pun intended) requires that ALL 120V receptacles 50A or less in a garage must now be GFCI protected, even those high in a ceiling. The apparent reasoning behind this change is that some folks plug pull-down cord reels into garage ceiling outlets, which brings electrical power down to a level where contact with a wet concrete floor could produce a shock--thus the perceived need for GFCI protection even in garage ceiling receptacles. So, I believed I had to add GFCI protection to all circuits in the original and new structures, either with a GFCI outlet closest to the panel on any 15A or 20A circuit, or with a GFCI circuit breaker in the panel. There are 15A light circuits which have receptacles, because the LED UFO lights plug into ceiling receptacles, and 20A garage door/outlet circuits in that garage, along with the aforementioned 30A RV outlet. But, I could not find anywhere online either a 30A 120V GFCI receptacle or a 120V 30A GFCI circuit breaker (I found 220V dual--pole 30A GFCI versions, but no 120V single pole ones), and our 30A RV outlet is 120V, as it must be to enable connection to an RV. Why? Further research informed me that 30A RV receptacles are exempted from the general rule that all 120V receptacles 50A or lower in a garage must be GFCI protected, regardless of how high they are off the floor. All I could find through a Google search is that such 30A receptacles in RV parks and campgrounds are exempted, so 30A 120V receptacles in garages are likewise exempt. So, it appears I can leave that 30A RV receptacle alone, and it should pass inspection. I invite any more knowledgeable readers to correct me if I am wrong, or to explain the reason for the exemption. I just find it curious....

Although you likely have an electrical-related issue, the stabilizers jacks can also be manually operated.

Episode 18:

Thanks for the post. Under Houghton it shows the below T-Remote. This is the same remote used by their 3400 Houghton (Low Profile Not Ducted: The one several of us are running) as well as their 13.5 KBTU ducted unit (Not low profile).

I share your frustration. The product very cleaverly SOLVES the humidity issues, and gives owners greater flexability in operation of their A/C as well. However, there likely are more than a few reasons for the majority of owners to "wait and see". A big one, as I posted in the previous thread, is not knowing how numerous hard shut down and restart cycles per hour will be tolerated by the existing control boards out there. Or probable warranty impacts on new units. Not being able and willing to mod their unit as some have done with the Houghtons for about $50 in parts. Not wanting to add another complicated device in their lives. Not being able to install the device, or trouble shoot it should it fail. My hope is that manufacturers get the message that they need to provide the remote T-stat and fan control features as standard features. Oh, and in my dream state, design the units to be able to use an internal condensate drain system! Please don't wake me up. GJ

I agree that the small plenum area is a root cause of noise from most RV a/c units. Why? It precludes space for proper turning vanes and insulation as you stated. I also agree that the outside portion of the noise is not a prime concern for newer designed units as we are seeing now on the market. But for the 95%+ of the units that are still out there hammer milling away... their uninsulated and non-vibration isolated designs certainly do make inside livability an issue. While on our month long Florida tour this past October, in Key West we were parked for a week next to an older Casita. Their ancient A/C noise inside our OTT was distracting. I could only imagine what it was like inside their trailer. But then I suspect due to their hearing aids it likely did not impact them at all.....

I felt the same way with the Houghton. But learned that it appears that over time the remoted thermistor and unit would track actual cabin temperature much closer than I thought. Try selecting a temp and let it run for an hour and then check the accuracy with a reliable thermometer. What I had been doing was making changes to the setting and expecting to see a result soon. Would love to know how they do that.

I believe the temperature sensor is mounted just below the controls.

Yep. That's how I was taught of few 'centuries' ago! 😁

@taylor.coyote This picture is from below the front hatch under the street side bed of my 2017 LE2. The yellow fuse holders are for the 3 Barker jacks, 1 for each jack. There are 2 fuse holders for the front jack, 1 under the bed and 1 outside by the front jack. Good luck, Mossey

The Cielo mimics the unit’s remote utilizing IR to extend control of the air conditioner as a ‘smart’ device. It has built-in temperature and humidity sensors, and provides advanced features via WiFi and the Cielo Home app. Both temperature and humidity parameters can be calibrated to more closely align readings if disparities occur.

The Atmos is the same, being inside at one of the intake filter locations. From reading one of your past posts, I decided to move mine out to open cabin and left it like that for no particular reason other than things are working great. Now that I have some experience and know what to expect, I may move it back to see if there is any difference.

First of all, credit to the Oliver owner that shared the installation of these on his screen door, great idea and product recommendation! I finally got around to adding a push bar to our screen door for ease in exiting and closing, and also resolved an ingress problem, as well. Although both installations offer support, my decision to mount one on the closet door as a grab handle when entering to help pull one’s self up and in, proved especially beneficial! Also, each can be used as a towel or clothing rack. Respective modifications were made for custom fitment, here’s a look at the final outcome:

I should mention that the two bars were staggered to enable the closet door to be opened as much as possible and positioned as to not interfere with the closet door latch. Here’a a couple of pics:

Looking at the Cielo website, they have several models. https://cielowigle.com/products/ Is it only the "Max" model that has the functionality to turn the fan off with the compressor? They also have Pro, Eco and Lite models.

So, I bit the bullet on a Dometic unit. Thinking through our needs of quality, size and efficiencies and other factors, I decided on a 45L single-zone unit, since most quality built dual-zone units are too big for us at 75L. I didn't want wheels and pull handles and light plastics, as it will be mounted in one position and I will create a 24x7 12VDC connection for it (an installation post will be coming). I figured it would normally be set to fridge temps. The bottom of the entire deep section could be for drinking water and we'll get a half-height basket for produce or bulky fridge items to sit on top. But say we ran into a farm deal on the road and purchase a bulk of frozen meats. We could lower it to freezing temps and go back to just having less cold water in the Oliver fridge. It will be a learning curve. We got the Dometic CFX2 45L model. The 28x18" footprint will nicely fit rear of our 8' truck bed next to our Napoleon dual-burner grill, for a tailgate party! 🤣 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF7Z3MBQ?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 Another deciding factor was saving $160 on Amazon Used - Like New condition, defined as "Looks and functions as if it were new. Minor packaging damage observed during inspection." I've purchased 40+ Amazon Used items and have only had to return 3-4 items (<10%) when instead of used, they came prior-purchaser abused! $719 a good price vs. the $880 list! Thanks to @Tideline77 and @Tom and Doreen for your feedback!

I put a 32 inch Samsung Q60 a few back with no issues. Didn't change the existing mount. Just a simple plug and play.

I decided to go with a smart 32” TV and didn’t really care about watching it on the battery. Best Buy had an Insignia 32” Fire TV for $89 & I like the brand. It was a pretty EZ mod to the existing mount. I needed to lower the bracket & add a 1/2” plywood shim. A quick trip to the hardware store for some 2” bolts. Fits like glove!

We resolved the issue with the Vizio television. Rather than mess around with trying to fit a 32” set where the old 24” one was, I just opted for a different 24” set. Figured that we didn’t really -need- a bigger screen. (Trailer’s not that big.) And it was more just the aggravating behaviour of the Vizio set that irked me so much. Went to Walmart and bought an “Onn” Roku set for the princely sum of $78. The mounting hole pattern is the same as the Vizio, so it was an easy swap out. If anybody loves the 24” Vizio and wants a spare, we’re traveling through Florida now and I’ll gift it to you.