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We've had the 640Ah Lithionics from the start with a 3-way fridge. More battery power than we've ever needed. I think the lowest we ever got was 63% after a week camping in full shade during rainy weather. It's funny. We were used to camping with a single lead acid deep cycle battery in our old trailers so I still find myself going around turning off lights and watching the battery SOC like a hawk. I have to learn to relax. Like @Steve and MA said, holding tanks are the limiting factor now.

@JDB_Traveler We had the Truma retro fit done a few years ago, and reeeeeally like it. We always use our remote to operate the AC and not the panel. Ours works fine. The optional Truma CP plus panel was a must have for us as a back up to the remote. If our remote should ever quit working we have the CP plus panel as a back up to dial in our Truma. If you only have the remote and it quits working your “flapping” aka - no way to operate our Truma. Pro tip/field experience -make sure that when the techs do the install that they take extra care to make sure there are no kinks in condensation lines that connect the Truma to the OEM drain lines. I made sure to gently remind the installers of this and have never had any issues with our lines not kinked or draining. There were a few earlier installs that had this issue and eventually had to be corrected so it’s worthy of mention. It’s nice to use the OEM factory drain lines to keep water from draining onto the roof. It just makes for a nice clean OEM install and keeps your roof condensation free and ceramic coating or wax job looking great. Also note, there are two condensation cups on each rear corner of the Truma. They are not very deep and do fill up with condensate as the unit operates. It’s important when you set up camp to have your Oliver dead level. When your Truma is running this will keep the cups from over flowing on to your roof and draining like they are suppose to. **We brought our old “Demonic Penguin” back home and sold it on FB market place it to a guy for $600 who installed it in his food truck. The techs at Oliver helped load the AC in the bed of my truck for transport. **Consider having the RV or Truma soft start installed IF Oliver still installs them. If you ever run a generator you will appreciate the soft start install. We could not be happier with our Truma Aventa and how quiet it is and how fast it cools and dehumidifies our Oliver.One of our top mods to date. Welcome to the forum and I hope this info helps you! All the best with your install!

I'd be a bit careful here! Sure - either way its not a bunch of money but ..... I'd make very sure that everyone is talking about the exact same part(s) before placing the order. It appears to me that the "hub cap" plus the "little disk" that goes in the center of the "hub cab" sells on Amazon for about the same price that Oliver is quoting - But, the "little disk" that goes in the center of the "hub cap" costs about half that on Amazon as per jd1923's post above. Or, as per Patriot's post above, these "little disks" are available from Oliver (with the appropriate Oliver logo installed) for only about the $3.00 that Patriot mentions. It should also be noted that all of this is different from what is called a "dust cap" that is the part that is tapped into the end of the axle in order to keep dust and dirt from reaching the axle bearings. Examples of these "dust caps" can be seen in jd1923"s post above (for the never lube axles) and in my post above for the regular axles. Hope this helps and saves you some coin. Bill

I called Oliver and was quoted $48.12 for a set of four, shipping included.

The shorter your jacks, the more stable your trailer will be. We use the round Andersen Jack Stands. The Jack Stands reduce the jack extension by approximately 7"+.

Seems like you can already dry camp for over a week at a time without needing to recharge your batteries. Are your batteries limiting the duration of your adventures? We have the factory 630 AH package and it's proven to be more than enough. For us it's the holding tank capacity that limits us to 5 - 6 days off grid. We have taken advantage of the battery capacity for running the air conditioner overnight when camped without shore power, but we recharge with a generator during the day.

Hey John, I can’t say they add to further stabilization of the Oliver. They do help to not leave a foot print on hot black top at campsites. And as far as grounding from any type of lightning hit I have no idea. I think when I bought ours they offered a 2 pack and then I bought a single. I agree not cheap from what they are made which I think is recycled tires? Hope all is going well at the Q and hello to Wendy from us!

According to AI as of 2pm 2-12-2026 There is not an active, certified class-action lawsuit against Battle Born Batteries at this time, but a class-action lawsuit investigation is underway due to reported issues with overheating battery terminals. If you own Battle Born batteries, a survey has been circulating to gather information for the class action lawsuit investigation. Key Issues Under Investigation The potential lawsuit stems from a reported design flaw in certain Battle Born battery models (specifically 12V, 100Ah, and potentially the GC2 models) where the positive terminal can overheat significantly during charging or under load. Design Flaw: The positive terminal design is alleged to be problematic, with plastic isolating the terminal post from the busbars, forcing all current through a single aluminum bolt and nut. This can lead to the nut loosening, the plastic melting, and dangerous temperatures. Safety Concerns: Temperatures at the terminal have been reported to exceed 250°F (120°C), posing fire and burn hazards. Company Response: Battle Born Batteries (parent company Dragonfly Energy) has stated the terminal melting is an intentional "thermal failsafe" feature designed to prevent heat from reaching the internal cells in cases of misuse or improper installation. Warranty Issues: Some customers report that warranty claims related to these issues have been denied, which critics argue is contributing to the call for legal action. For potential claimants, industry experts and consumers on forums suggest: Checking the temperature of your battery's positive terminal under load using a temperature gun. Contacting the law firms conducting the investigation, whose information can be found through resources like the survey link mentioned in the search results.

We, too, level and raise our Hull #1291 (2022) with the jacks. But, we always use support blocks for two reasons: (1) to avoid jack damage if we forget to raise the jacks before driving off and (2) to shorten jack travel distance. See photo below of one of our three support blocks in place under the front jack. Since that photo was taken, we have added Snap Pads, as recommended by Patriot, above. We like 'em. One caution: ensure that the jack foot is placed on level ground, or the foot plate can be bent, requiring replacement. If using the jack on a slope (such as on the side of significantly crowned roadway), place tapered levelers under the jack foot to provide a level platform. Don't ask me how I know...

New Statement from BB.

@ripple963 welcome to this awesome group of members. Like others have mentioned, I also use my jacks to level my 2016 Elite II. However, a few things maybe not mentioned here. I have already replaced the old Lithium grease in both of my Jacks in early 2023. So with 7 years of use, the original grease was indeed getting a bit dry or stiff. I think I got them just in time. Greasing jacks is also in the Oliver University video library. Put that on your long-term maintenance schedule. You should not need to worry about that until at least 2031/2032. Wow that seems futuristic to type. Anywho.... I'm always worried about bending a jack foot (round plate), so I always keep small, thin oak blocks in my truck in order to level out any blocking I use for my jacks - also good for leveling outside tables for cooking. We don't always get to be on nice level ground. And yes, like others, as long as Oliver does not change the jack models, I completely lift my Ollie off the ground for maintenance. I ONLY do this on completely level concrete/pavement if I can. As mentioned, I also use lots of good blocking so the jacks do not need to lower much. This reduces wear and the jacks do not rock back & forth nearly as much, making for a VERY stable camper. Good for normal camping and maintenance. SAFETY FIRST though. We all likely use additional jack stands when doing bearing/hub/brake maintenance. I will be putting on new leaf springs soonest and will have the camper jacked up for that too. I go slow when lifting the trailer, stopping for a moment in hopes of not blowing a fuse or other gear wear. Once you have your rig, add to your spare parts list the proper slow-blow fuse for the jacks. I think these days they wire all three fuses next to each other under one of the bunks. My rear fuses are near each jack. I have never found the front jack fuse if there is one in my hull. My used Ollie came with a nice aftermarket front jack and the fuse is outside with the jack. I have a new borescope camera now, I should look harder for the inner front jack fuse. LOL Good luck and keep using these forums.

@Galway Girl Your creativity is always a joy! Mossey

What a lovely and creative way to document your travels. Thanks for sharing. I am grinning ear to ear after watching and can't wait to hit the road again.

@Mark Meadows as to your first post. For all the nonbelievers out there. 😄 Here are the plastic caps that I ordered from Mike Sharpe as a replacement. As mentioned, I think they are like $3 plus shipping. If this is what you are looking for, Oliver Parts usually keeps them in stock. Cheers & Happy New Year!

It depends on your total Ah and usage... I certainly agree with Will on two points (his snarky way makes me 🤣, although if you own BBs it's certainly not funny). First, these are truly OVERPRICED in today's market and he ran a valid test. Second as he stated, I wonder if BB the company has reprogrammed these to produce less output which of course results in less heat produced. Of course units sold years ago would not be programmed as such unless you can/have updated firmware. More on your question... Running a 1100W coffee machine is drawing 90A (1100/12 for 12VDC). Running a blow-dryer or A/C could pull 1800W or 150A . So any 1100W appliance is very close to his 99A test which I would call normal use. If you were running on a single 100 Ah, I'd say you'd be screwed! HOWEVER, not to worry as most of you have two or three 100 Ah BB batteries. Say you have 3 batteries the amperage is split, so the 1100W appliance that pulls 90A will pull 30A from each battery (more "normal circumstances"). This is why most of you have not had heat issues. The fact that the Gold Standard, premium priced battery can only produce half of their spec!!! If you bought BB new recently, I'd strongly suggest asking for your money back. In contrast, the 300 Ah Epoch Essential can draw 100A recommended and 200A maximum (400A peak for 10s). 300 Ah at $1200 list price is $4/Ah rating ($3.40/Ah when on sale 15% off). The BB at the $800 current sale price is more than double the cost at $8/Ah. If the 100 Ah BB could truly produce 100A discharge, 3 BBs would be far superior to one 300 Ah Epoch (only) in its ability to produce discharge output. But If actual numbers are 50% less, then the output capacity is about the same. Most Oliver Owners who upgraded to Epoch have installed two 300 Ah batteries (600 Ah for 85% the cost of 3 100 Ah BBs today, when both are on sale). Two have a discharge capacity of 200A, maximum 400A which means you can run that noisy Dometic P2 A/C (150A+) all day, under spec/no heat issues, or until you get low on SOC! 😎