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Here’s an improvised cover that anyone can make when out on the road….

Well, thanks to my buddy Steve, we had a good time putting on the new springs at a great location. He's paying me back for helping him put his springs on. Based off what Lew at Alcan said, this is around 200 Oliver's receiving the springs. Pretty good. Once the weather clears I'll do the first 50 mile ride, come back, and retorque the U-Bolt nuts again to 90 pounds. Oh, and between two of you (us), do not lose your 7/8 inch deep impact socket, and do not forget to pick one up before starting the job. LOL Or, driving to the store to get one will delay you. LOL Helpful tools and hints: The new Ryobi impact drill, grease gun, and 4x4 hydraulic jack were all amazing - made things easy. Best to also have two small bottle jacks, 2x" & 4x" wood for cribbing. Not to mention PB Blaster, or equivalent, for the old U-bolts nuts, and small wire brush to clean off those old U-bolt threads before attempting to remove the nuts. One nut got bound up and I had to use old muscles and extra leverage to get the nut off. (Fun times). LOL

Believe whatever you choose - I only wanted to clear up the definitions that were being tossed around along with the associated prices. Bill

We've had the 640Ah Lithionics from the start with a 3-way fridge. More battery power than we've ever needed. I think the lowest we ever got was 63% after a week camping in full shade during rainy weather. It's funny. We were used to camping with a single lead acid deep cycle battery in our old trailers so I still find myself going around turning off lights and watching the battery SOC like a hawk. I have to learn to relax. Like @Steve and MA said, holding tanks are the limiting factor now.

Thanks Bill, Every picture tells a a story. 👍🏻😄 🇺🇸

I'd be a bit careful here! Sure - either way its not a bunch of money but ..... I'd make very sure that everyone is talking about the exact same part(s) before placing the order. It appears to me that the "hub cap" plus the "little disk" that goes in the center of the "hub cab" sells on Amazon for about the same price that Oliver is quoting - But, the "little disk" that goes in the center of the "hub cap" costs about half that on Amazon as per jd1923's post above. Or, as per Patriot's post above, these "little disks" are available from Oliver (with the appropriate Oliver logo installed) for only about the $3.00 that Patriot mentions. It should also be noted that all of this is different from what is called a "dust cap" that is the part that is tapped into the end of the axle in order to keep dust and dirt from reaching the axle bearings. Examples of these "dust caps" can be seen in jd1923"s post above (for the never lube axles) and in my post above for the regular axles. Hope this helps and saves you some coin. Bill

Seems like you can already dry camp for over a week at a time without needing to recharge your batteries. Are your batteries limiting the duration of your adventures? We have the factory 630 AH package and it's proven to be more than enough. For us it's the holding tank capacity that limits us to 5 - 6 days off grid. We have taken advantage of the battery capacity for running the air conditioner overnight when camped without shore power, but we recharge with a generator during the day.

We, too, level and raise our Hull #1291 (2022) with the jacks. But, we always use support blocks for two reasons: (1) to avoid jack damage if we forget to raise the jacks before driving off and (2) to shorten jack travel distance. See photo below of one of our three support blocks in place under the front jack. Since that photo was taken, we have added Snap Pads, as recommended by Patriot, above. We like 'em. One caution: ensure that the jack foot is placed on level ground, or the foot plate can be bent, requiring replacement. If using the jack on a slope (such as on the side of significantly crowned roadway), place tapered levelers under the jack foot to provide a level platform. Don't ask me how I know...

The true "dust cap" is the cap pressed into the hub of the brake drums (as pictured). Yes, the outer center caps can help in deep mud but are more for cosmetics.

Well, I removed and reconnected all the battery cables, then did the power draw down to reserve cutoff. Then I charged it back up to 100 percent. They are all showing the same state of charge now. Lithionics rep did call me and told me of the need to periodically discharge and charge to full in order to help the batteries keep their balance. He also said to charge with shore power to 100 percent before leaving on any trip as this helps the batteries maintain their equilibrium. Thanks for all the help!