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Six weeks later, after a lot of local camping this spring, I got the lamp shade installation done! 😎 Drilling 5 more of these, I found the large hole saw was binding hard. So I put the drill in reverse and it cut clean through the soft PVC in seconds, nice! I installed them over the Main Cabin and Dinette lights. I didn't want lamp shades over the beds, or the kitchen, since they are low enough and want the light to spread horizontally. So, we went with 6 shades total. I used the Gorilla Clear Grip that @Hokieman suggested above. The instructions state to apply glue to both surfaces, wait 2 minutes and connect, but it would be very difficult to apply glue to the Oliver ceiling! In a PM from Mike, he suggested putting glue on the shade part, placing it up on the ceiling to get a circle of glue up there, then remove it for 2 minutes and reapply. Great idea! I tested the glue first with two random PVC parts. The next day they held strongly together and after I broke the seal, the glue residue came off easily, cleaned up nicely, way easier than removing spent VHB tape. This will be a new sealant in my Oliver toolbox and I cannot believe I got a 3-pack on Amazon for $9! I placed the parts, eyeballing center with about 1/4" free-play, rotated the shade to spread the glue, spun off to remove and replaced each in two minutes, again rotating the shade until it felt firm. I did the next 3 Cabin Lights in series, 5 minutes for the entire job given the parts were prepped. On the first one, a little glue squeezed out. It was easy to remove excess glue merely rubbing with a paper towel while it was still pliable. The PVC parts have embossed model # lettering on the glued surface. I used a razor blade to remove the lettering to level the mating surface, but you can still see a hair of light coming through since the glue is clear. White glue would eliminate this but it's not bad at all. It's hard to take pictures of the shades on Main Cabin lights! The beautiful Oliver ceiling, still shiny at 10 years old, reflects like a mirror (see pics). In three years, we've only used the Main Cabin lights when cleaning or I'm working mods inside the Oliver. Now, we should use them often. And it will also be nice to sit down to dinner and not see that bright lamp glaring in front of Chris across the table. Basically the same amount of light is present, it's just not hitting us in the eyes anymore! 😎

Only thing I can find on the wheel is maximum pressure, not capacity. It’s probably in the operators manual. We have put many miles on these wheels, but for full disclosure, if we replace them and someone wants them, I have to post the maximum pressure. It’s going to be next year before I start on the wheel/tire project. Actually have two more Ollie projects before the wheel/tire project, I know it's easy to replace wheels/tires, but it's also according to $ available for AFE (authority for expenditure) projects, that's what we called them on the Railroad. 🙂

It wasn’t changed in 2016, we have the smaller spare.

If you have Lithionics batteries, you should check their Firmware. Mine was three versions outdated! The latest version of Firmware includes upgrades and corrections to the Battery Management System (BMS) and State Of Charge (SOC) accuracy. The Firmware can be checked and updated with the Lithionics Application. Go to settings and pick “Firmware Update.” Then press the “Flash Firmware” button if you don't have the latest version. Be sure to up-date each battery.

Yep, I have been running 40PSI for a year or two. Believe my original wheels rated for a maximum of 60PSI are rare.

Please read again. This is the MAX PSI rating of the wheel. Margin being that he runs 40 PSI in the Oliver!

Spot on! I suspect most of us have the AFE concern as well. You sure made me smile on that one! GJ

They come in 16's

Here are the release notes for the current version, didn't see anything about earlier versions. Probably only meaningful to techies: https://lithionics.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/154000170433-firmware-release-v1-1-11-and-v1-0-11-for-the-internal-bms-batteries#:~:text=This firmware is-,specific,-to smaller batteries

My working life was in measurement equipment for NASA, three letter agencies and other spooky groups 😅 It would be interesting to see it broken in frequency bands. For whatever reason I suspect we’d see a response shift. Basically the suspension is a filter and we’re changing the parameters Anyhow I found a top drawer shop locally that specializes in trailer suspension so I’ll do it here this year, pending your data. I recommend a low hard surface like the floor to capture the from suspension output. Vibration might increase further up, and we want to avoid induced response from dirtying the signal. Might not matter either and we’re looking for order of magnitude anyhow but will be interesting Best of all is taping it to the frame directly if you’re comfortable with that

Good thought, I could the sell the old set. I only run 40PSI @ 5100lb ready to camp weight with the ION wheels that came on our Ollie. Another piece of interesting information is it looks like the maximum pressure for these particular wheels, 60PSI.

John, I keep our Ollie on pavement most of the time except when a campground has dirt roads. To be honest I was thinking about refinishing the original 16" ION trailer wheels or replacing them with new 15" Sendel trailer wheels. I already have one 15" Sendel trailer wheel with a Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R/15 for the spare tire since the full size 16" LT225/75R/16 tire/wheel will not fit in the original spare tire housing, believe the Oliver spare tire housing was made larger during 2016 or 2017. I would lose about 1/2" trailer ground clearance by moving to the 15" tire/wheel using the same 15" Goodyear ST tires Oliver currently uses. Just a thought for now. I have another Ollie project in front of wheels/tires for next year. Here's the original spare with 16" wheel and passenger tire (not LT) that would fit in the spare tire housing on the left. The new 15" Goodyear ST tire and Sendel wheel is on the right that fits the original spare tire housing.

These Lithionics batteries are really top drawer, and priced to boot 😅I happened to come across a video yesterday showing why Generic Brand X: Typical cylindrical cell. Lots of plastic, zip tied and a BMS bolted on. Problem: Many weld points, many cells which need to be leveled, plastic construction can have heat issues and doesn't conduct heat. Glued tinker toy construction possibly more prone to issues in a trailer. Lithionics Large pouch cells for higher energy density, fewer welds and leveling. Aluminum for head conduction, integrated BMS which per OP has an app and firmware updates. Also they test and there's a lower internal battery impedance. Not to mention extra features like built in heating pad and on/off/status switch

For other newbs I went through about half the posts on this topic so you don’t have to. I think I captured the essence Summary Alcan are rated for 2k (8k total) vs 1750 (7k) for Dexter Spring rating depends on how well you do it (yes as an engineer this is the unvarnished truth). There’s no stock answer, they’re all approximations to the truth. Alcan is apparently known for using a well regarded approach (software I think) Alcan’s analysis of the 1750 Dexter is that they’re underrated for this trailer and the Alcan 2k is more appropriate One could surmise this is them ‘talking their book’, but so far the story has a ring of truth for a small shop that take their work seriously Alcans specialty is springs, OTT is trailers, I think Alcan has more authority here. In addition OTT has many considerations, supply chain being number one. Dexters are always available, easily replaced, come as a set with the axle, and if any owner wants an upgrade that’s available. So I think its entirely reasonable OTT is sticking with Dexter But in the matter of the best spring for the application I’ll go with Alcan The Alcan’s therefore have a better margin in case of overload and road stress - actually they have margin, the stock at rated for max with no margin And it’s only a (IIRC) ~15% stiffer spring, which isn’t a great difference For me, other than build quality the sell is that the springs provide margin without going into over engineered/overkill range. I was concerned that this is ‘bigger is better’ mentality but no, instead it’s just giving some extra room on top, which is generally a good idea. So I’m sold, I should be retired next year and will plan a trip to Colorado to have them installed. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/2/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103428 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/2/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103477 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/2/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103486 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/6/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103733 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/7/?&_rid=8320#findComment-103752 https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9996-made-in-usa-leaf-springs/page/10/?&_rid=8320#findComment-104836

When I read that, I immediately had the visual image of the bad guy of "The Fifth Element" movie stomping down his space ship stairs muttering: "I you want something..." Gary Oldman was perfect for that role.

Thanks John, My only concern is these trailer tires are said to not be underinflated or they can heat up and possibly blow out.

Our "real world" test was a success. After resetting the LBCO to 11.5V, as authorized by Jason Essary, we had no inverter shutdowns when boondocking (without shore power, of course) over the weekend. We used the Truma AC, a small 120V vacuum cleaner, a hairdryer and the microwave (one at a time, of course), at various SOC levels, with no inverter shutdowns. I learned from Jason Essary that the origin of the problem may be traceable to a new bus bar that Oliver began installing in late 2022, and then 2023 models, with the Truma AC. Apparently, the new bus bar reduces the DC voltage sensed by the inverter by enough to trigger a Low Battery Voltage Cutoff (LBCO) if the default setting of 12.0V is not lowered. In our case, resetting the LBCO to 11.5V eliminated the annoying inverter shutdowns. Jason advised that Lilthionics has approved the adjustment to an 11.5V LBCO for those with the new bus bar. I chalk this up to "growing pains" incorporating the new Truma components into the Oliver electrical system. To his credit, Jason Essary kept conducting tests, and working the problem, until he found the solution. So, contrary to the suggestion in the initial post in this thread, the solution to inverter LBCO shutdowns is NOT a hard reboot, but simply resetting the LBCO to 11.5V. I cannot explain why both the first and second hard reboot produced short-term results. Maybe one of you electric engineers can tackle that question. But for now, the LBCO reset appears to be working. Hope this helps anyone else with a late 2022 or 2023 model that is experiencing LBCO inverter shutdowns.