ScubaRx

I would suggest a bigger bogger truck. 😊😊😊 Seriously, we have a GMC Canyon with a diesel engine. But we tow with our Silverado 3500HD diesel. Move up to a 2500 or 3500 and you’ll be set.

Really, Really nice installation. And you can't beat the price. Very good work!

The main grounding buss is under the aft dinette seat. It is attached to the frame. Oliver does not supply wiring diagrams to owners. You do know that RV wiring is not like that in your home? The neutral and ground wires in an RV are isolated from each other.

You state that you own an Ollie but the membership profile that you filled out says that you Do Not own an Oliver. Is this a recent purchase and you've just failed to update your information? Please take care of it.

No graphics are currently included on a new build. This is in response to many of the latest buyers requesting the trailers be delivered naked. So there you go.

The Outlaw Oliver Hull #050

To the best of my knowledge, Oliver NEVER used an EZ-Flex without zerks. Are you saying there are no tapped holes in the equalizer? If there are holes, I stand by the answer I gave you on Facebook, they either broke off or came unscrewed and fell out. Either way to properly replace the zerks, you will have to drop the equalizer to properly service the zerks.

https://rvelectricity.substack.com/p/gmi-grounding-monitor-interrupter

You really need to especially careful around a situation like this. Just putting your hand near could result in a very nasty cut.

You can run it off batteries. How long would be dependent on how many amps the cooker drew out of the batteries. Another concern is how long will it take your solar system to recharge them. I could not find any wattage rating for that unit but I guess it to be around 1750 at least. At that rating, you would remove about 150 amps per hour. On an excellent solar day you could replace that amount in about 6-7 hours assuming no other concurrent draws.

The rear port side corner is the only top to bottom wire chase that exists.

@ChristianD Welcome to the forum and to the most exclusive club in the world. The Oliver Owners...

Drill a hole down thru the two nuts and bolts that hold the coupler the tongue. Drive a hardened roll pin into the hole and spot weld it in place. Nobody, including yourself, will be able to simply take the bolts out. They could grind the bolt head or the nut completely off, but that would slow them down considerably with the chance they'll see it in the same light as Sherry and, "go on to an easier target". Don't forget that if they come with a ball mount that has a 1-7/8" ball attached, they can simply lower the trailer onto the ball, wrap and secure a short length of chain around it and slowly drive away. So this brings up two more deterrents that are needed. 1 - You need to have disabled the power to your front jack (although they could have brought a floor jack and the tool to manually lower the jack just in case.) 2 - You need a spare, appropriately sized ball with the shank cut off to keep locked inside the Bulldog Hitch to further thwart the miscreants. Or, you could just bury a perimeter of M18A1 Claymore's around the trailer. But this would probably involve a cleaner and/or a lot of paperwork. Really, just buy a Proven Lock for your hitch and fuggedaboutit.

This forum was started in 2008 and belongs to the Oliver Travel Trailer owners. Oliver Technologies Inc. provides the web platform for us but it’s not run by them. This forum is run by owner members that are volunteers. Some of the management at Oliver are members here but none post regularly. I personally have no idea how often, if ever, they actually sit down and study it. Decisions on model year changes are made in-house and not based on any official polls that I have ever seen. I’m sure that owners opinions and preferences play a part in the process but many times it boils down to product availability. For example, model year 2026’s window change was due to the old sliding windows falling out of style nationally and having been discontinued by most manufacturers. The same was true with the shift from LP/electric to all electric refrigerators. You can rest assured that Oliver will always strive to provide the best trailer on the market.

I did this modification to The Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 in March of 2017 after spending a month in the desert near Quartzsite, AZ. I got real tired of having to manually move those valves.

What I was referring to was for those that want to easily disable the charging wire from the tow to the trailer without having to cut any wires.

Thank you for the explanation. I am not familiar with the inverter A/C units. We are still using the Dometic Penguin II that came on our Hull #050.

General Motors trucks actually have a fuse under the hood to disconnect charging power to the trailer batteries. Perhaps Ford’s do also. Otherwise, you’ll have to disconnect it on the trailer side.

I don’t understand that statement.

And, unless you are about the size of and have the agility of a spider monkey, forget about getting your head inside to see and your arm (forget both arms also) inside to work at the same time. But, taking out the vanity insert and replacing it with an access door is one of the handiest mods I've done. I literally use that access all the time.

Back in the 1990's, I downloaded hundreds of hours of music (Napster anyone?) over dial-up. It usually took about 2-3 times the length of the song to get it downloaded, if it didn't fail. Then came DSL, Oh my Goodness, it was usually finished before I could queue up the next download. My goal was to get and catalog every Billboard Hot 100 single from 1940-1999. It took me 10 years. Anybody have a request from that era?

Actually, there was only one made.

Poor Tommy Lee. He gets blamed for everything.

When I follow the link I get this info: RELIABLE STRENGTH. With high-strength steel construction, this threaded hook is rated for a breaking strength of 11,000 pounds and a work load limit of 2,200 pounds

Are you sure this is not a crime scene?