ScubaRx

That’s good. It helps keep the value of our existing trailers up.

My new springs should be here next week. That will make The Outlaw Oliver the oldest trailer to have them retrofitted to. I am excited to get them and although I've never had a problem with my original 5-leaf springs that came with the 5200 pound axles, I'm super confident that the new stronger Alcan springs will be much better.

I have sprayed ours regularly through the years. I've used WD-40 (messy) and dry silicone lubricant (much better). Aluminum tends to want to "stick" to itself. I've not thought about using paraffin, but that is a good idea. It might stay on longer than my methods. Give it a shot and let's see how it works.

Around 50psi.

I did, Lew (the owner) stated the person that wrote the email simply was mistaken.

I'd unhook from the water there until the plumber is long gone. You don't want contaminated water from where they worked on the lines to get into your system. Another reason to use from your own water tank when the other choices are questionable.

I'm unclear why you would think that. Your wheels have you at 7.8K pounds, well above the stated 7K GVWR. Which tires, axles and spring packs are riding under your Hull #045? How much does your trailer weigh full of water, gear and ready to camp for a 3 month long foray? The wheels and tires under my Hull #050 have a load rating of just over 13K pounds. The Axles are rated at 10.4K pounds. The Alcan springs can support 11K pounds. The Outlaw Oliver has always weighed well over 7000 pounds in its natural habitat. And, it has traveled over 100K miles, most of it with the tires sitting at 80psi all without a single issue. I'll be forever grateful for Jim Oliver's guidance and assistance in designing the most over built Oliver rolling down the road. But, there are those here that think I tend to over-engineer everything.

I'll take my piece hot with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.

Based on the age of your trailer I suspect that you actually have an inverter/charger (I/C) rather than just an inverter. If so, that switch kills the power going back and forth between the batteries and the I/C. In one direction the current is supplying battery power to the I/C to be changed into 120VAC for the coach. In the other direction the current is supplying 12VDC to charge the batteries. You would want to turn this switch off while doing any maintenance such as unbolting cables or changing fuses. Also if you want to stop the batteries from being charged, you would turn this switch off.

I'm starting to feel sorry for that horse. Yes, I do know he's allegedly already dead.

There has been some unintentional misinformation posted in this thread about the 5-leaf Alcan Spring that is being sold to Oliver owners for retrofittiing. That being the weight rating of the spring packs. I've seen ratings posted varying from 2000 to 2400 pounds. During multiple conversations with Alcan Spring in Colorado, the owner Lew Weldon, has stated that the correct weight rating is 2750 pounds per spring for a total of 11,000 pounds. They supply exactly the same spring for both the 3500 pound and the 5200 pound axles, the only difference being the U-Bolts provided which is based on the diameter of the axle itself. The GVWR of both the Oliver Elite's is calculated using the weight ratings of the axles and the spring packs. The final rating is based on the weaker of the two. For those owners that have the 3500 pound axles, the installation of these heavier springs will not affect your GVWR of 7000 pounds. For those owners that either already have or have switched to the 5200 pound Nev-R-Lube axles you would now effectively have a GVWR of 10,400 pounds upon the installation of these heavier springs.

Teaser Alert, I’ve got some new info about the Alcan Springs.

And BTW, There are three Oliver dealers in Georgia. All of them are closer to you than Hohenwald so you should be really happy you don’t have to make a long trip.

John, apparently you’ve not been on the forum or FB in the past month or better. Oliver made the announcement about service in Hohenwald being phased out several several weeks ago. By now it’s pretty old news. Perhaps you should come to the Rally and lead the charge.

@John Dorrer posted this on FB this past Friday and I responded to it soon afterward. My advice to everyone...buy yourself four real chocks. After parking, put one behind each rear tire and one in front of each front tire OR on both sides of the single axle tires. Kick them hard into place, up snugly against the tires. DO NOT ever place them only on one side. Raise the hitch off the ball BEFORE unhooking the safety chains. Unless you've accidentally parked on a sixty degree slope, the trailer should not move at all. Finish unhooking trailer and move the tow vehicle. Level front to rear with the 3000 pound capacity front jack. After placing at least six inches of blocking under each, level side to side with either of the 3000 pound capacity rear jacks. Your trailer will not move with these chocks. Yeah, I know they're from HF and they spell like a tire factory, but they're inexpensive, they work and I challenge you to be able to make that trailer move with these chocks properly set. Don't believe me? Try driving off after forgetting to remove them. I do not care for the Andersen Levelers. They're too expensive for what they do, they're useless (and never intended to be used) as chocks and they will skid around on concrete.

They will install them in Grand Junction. Shop rate = $125/hr. About two hours.

You're overdue for your followup exam. See you at the Rally..

As early as April, 2015 they were molding wire chases into the upper inside hull to run the wiring down between the hulls to the rear attic space. I shot these photos on 04-29-2015. The above shot shows the rear of the hull. The upper attic door will be cut here. This photo shows where the wires would go through the outer hull and into the wiring chase toward the front of the trailer This photo shows where the wire chase starts. This photo is looking from the front towards the rear of the trailer. I don't know if these will help. At one time there were some little dimples in the top of the outer hull to show where that wire chase terminated. X marked the spot on the inner hull in photos #2 and #3.

Considering that they created their website in 2021, haven't updated it since and weren't even planning to make this product available until Q3, 2024, I'd say not too good, if at all.

Aluminum tubing is not measured like steel tubing. Two inches ID or OD is EXACTLY two inches. They WILL NOT slide into each other. You will need to mill 1/32" off each face of the male tube to make it fit. Even then, if the receivers are not perfectly parallel, the cross member will still not go in very easily. I solved that problem by over sizing the four bolt holes for the receivers and used nylock nuts left very slightly loose. There's just enough play to make them go in, a little spray lub won't hurt.

I agree that that is a much better Hitch Receiver but he would still have to have the crossbar to mount it on.

It's not standard and free, you would have had to specified wanting it in the original order. I'm sure you can still buy it, but you will have to drill four vertical, perfectly spaced holes down through the back end of the frame rails to mount the two receivers.

I'd just sandwich the cross member with a larger secondary backing plate in between and below with proper hole spacing for the hitch and throuth bolt the whole thing. It would be stronger than the above arraignment and solve the problem of the mis-aligned holes.

My door will close with either valve open.

What pattern do you detect?