ScubaRx

It is not drawn in the correct position. You are correct in stating that it should be right next to the outlet on the tank and it is.

From Nashville head down the Natchez Trace till you get to a detour. The rally is right after you exit the Trace.

That would be my choice.

The wheel bearings on modern passenger vehicles are sealed and completely different from the ones in our trailers. These are like the bearings of automobiles and trucks of the 50's and earlier. They have to be repacked periodically. Somebody stated that Oliver suggests every 6000 miles. I'm not sure where that figure came from, but if I follow it, I'll probably have to repack my bearings about twice during this next trip!!!! I believe a lot of the data for bearing care is taken from the boat trailer industry where it is really necessary to routinely inspect and service your bearings due to their regular immersion in water, with salt being the most caustic. I would like to try to repack mine once a year but I just got around to it about a month ago when I placed new bearings during my new disc brake install. The old bearings were 3 years old but still looked fine. (That doesn't mean they necessarily were.)

We have the oldest drawer slides of any Elite II on our 2014 Outlaw Oliver and we have never had a kitchen drawer to come open during travels. We do not have any magnetic catches on any of the drawers. Some of the dampeners on the self closures have played out, but they still close (with a slight bang) and they stay closed. I have several new drawer slides to replace them with but I'm always doing something "more interesting!"

I do not believe the tires are balanced prior to delivery. During a recent visit to the factory, I met an owner just picking up his trailer and he took the tires off and had them balanced prior to leaving.

To everybody traveling the Trace, make sure you honk as you go by our house in Tupelo... Or better yet, stop and sit a spell.

The older units had a fuse at the front jack AND a fuse in the panel. The rear jacks were fused at the panel. Downside is they are not slow-blows in the panel. Currently, each jack is individually fused at the jack. Now, that being said the power has to come from somewhere. From your diagram it appears to be additionally fused at the buss bar under the street side bed. Do your other two jacks work? Have you checked for 12v on the hot side of the wire at the front jack? To see the buss bar you will have to raise the mattress to gain access to the forward hatch.

John, I thinks that's a great idea. Would this work for you?

Meriwether Lewis park - 7 miles from Hohenwald, Free, Water available, no hookups, dump station, woody all shade, no gravel, paved road or stay at the sales office, hook to electricity, water available, free, not level, did I mention free or go over to Wal-Mart. As far as money hand over fist, if they are profiting anything, it's a recent event. These trailers cost a bundle to produce. The Natchez Trace is only closed between Fall Hollow and Meriwether and it will reopen this year sometime. Unless you're coming in from the South, that's irrelevant and, if you are going to Hohenwald, you will turn at Meriwether and it's still irrelevant.

Matteo, Thank you for your posts and generous offer on the price. Many of our setups are similar but each will have some variations. Since I have a 3000 watt Yamaha Generator, I'm not concerned about that part of the equation. What I would like to do was what David originally set about to achieve, run his AC off his batteries. I understand that there is a finite amount of energy in the batteries. I understand that when depleting the batteries there is a point past which one should not go. My setup is a Dometic Penguin II AC, 4 x 200 amp hour 6 volt Trojan AGM's (total = 400 amp hours, usable = 200 amp hours), 300 watts of solar, and a Kisae pure sine wave inverter 2000W (SWXFR1220). My question would be, sitting in full sun and using the above criteria, could I expect your EasyStart 364 model to be able to start and run my AC?

In the Oliver, he was running it with the standard 4 Trojan T-105's and the 320 watt solar. He later added two more batteries so he had even more reserve power.

David Kemp (trumpetguy) was using this equipment in his Oliver. He is now using the same in his Airstream. In full Florida sun, he was running his AC off the Trojans for as much as 8 hours at a time! Hopefully, he will chime in here with his experiences. The company has a complete Dometic Penguin II installation instructional on their website. It fits neatly inside the unit on the outside. The necessary unit costs a little over $300.00.

Thought I would test this since apparently nobody has posted in the past 24 hours.

Where's your baby's cover? Sometimes it gets cold at night!!! Very well done, and a great idea. Good work.

Just wanted to report that Scott Oliver introduced me to Jason at the factory yesterday and he's not "creepish" at all! He will be a great addition to the forum team and will be able to spend the time necessary to get and keep it running well. Welcome aboard, Jason...

John, I don't have a wiring diagram although it's not really necessary for your project. I would be happy to help you with it. I installed one in mine about a year ago. You will be working with both 12 Volts DC and 120 Volts AC. I believe Reed Lukens can hook you up with a wiring diagram.

Good to see both of you at the factory this past Wednesday. I hope you two are having the time of your lives. Where's the next destination?

John, thanks for the kind words. I did consider something commercially available but I needed something the next morning and I made them up from stuff in the shop. The hangers were made about midnight one evening in a fit of desperation and inspiration. They consist of a short piece of vinyl covered cable, some #8 washers, a couple of ring tongue electric crimp connectors, some of these (opened up and re-bent to conform to the diameter of the brake hose), a pop rivet and a sheet metal screw. My advice is to make these up on the bench rather than under the trailer at the time of installation...trust me. Despite what it looks like, the hose is hanging straight below the attachment point.

If they're willing to do it for $375.00, jump on it. The company I spoke with in Weatherford, TX gets $2900.00 for the install. Of course this includes the equipment and installation all done in one day. For something I could do myself, I thought that was a little steep plus I would have to drive to Texas. For $375.00, that's a hell of a deal. I'm just way too particular (and cheap) to let just anybody touch my trailer. Justin Reeves at the factory is another story. That guy is a meticulous gifted craftsman that I can recommend without reservation.

In 2007-early 2008 all the Elites were sold with 3500 lb axles. Somewhere in middle to late 2008 problems started to arise due to the fact that these early trailers were too heavy for that size axle. The factory swapped out most (if not all) of them for 5200 lb axles with 6 bolt lugs and provide 3 new tires and wheels for each. It's doubtful, but there may be some still out there with the original 3500 lb single axles. During our Elite II build I asked for twin 5200 lb axles to be mounted on ours because that was what we had on the original Elite I. All the new Elite I's have been equipped with 5200 lb axles.

It does seem ironic that all of a sudden Oliver would be willing to install disc brakes instead of the supplied drum brakes. It could be that I was at the factory this past Wednesday where John Oliver and Jason Essary took a close look at my installation. They must have really gotten on the stick about sourcing parts and deciding on labor. I chose the Kodiak brand of calipers and rotors because that seems to be the industry standard. I suspect that Oliver would prefer to buy their Dexter axles already outfitted with disc rotors. I don't think that is a problem. I would, however insist on the Carlisle Hydrastar HBA-16 actuator and the accompanying HBA-CAM. This last piece of equipment is only necessary if you have a late-model General Motors, Ford or Dodge pick up. It allows the in cab controller to work with the Hydrastar actuator. The reason I recommend installing it no matter what is that it will allow your trailer to be protected against the future should you change brands of tow vehicle. It would be, however easy to add in the future if you so chose to wait. I went with the Dacromet coating because I determined from my research that it apparently represents the best value for dollar spent. Of course, stainless steel would be much better but the price was more than twice as much. Plus, as you pointed out, your tow vehicle will not be equipped with nearly as nice of equipment. I mounted the actuator in the front propane compartment just forward of the propane tanks. It fits nicely in this area. It allows easy access for adding brake fluid. If there is a drawback to mounting in this location it would be the distance from the brakes themselves. From what I read the closer it is to the brakes the faster the response time. My entire usage so far is a trip to the factory and back. For me that is about 250 miles round-trip. I found them to be much more sensitive than the drums. For anyone who would like to address specific questions you may feel free to call me anytime at 662-255-0181.

When our Oliver was built in early 2014, there were no "standard" tires or anything else, for that matter. I discussed tire selection with Jim Oliver and he suggested the Michelin® XPS® Rib™ LT225/75R16/E 115/112Q LRE. That is what we went with. I have been extremely satisfied with them.

Well I finally bit the bullet and installed disc brakes on the Outlaw Oliver. It was not a particularly hard task, not nearly so much as installing the Dexter EZ-Flex system. The cost was just under $1300. See the Oliver-Disc-Brakes-Chart.pdf for a complete break down of what I bought and where.

OK, Tali and I restrung the shade with the broken string this evening. Not the most enjoyable task we've ever done but it beats a sharp stick in your eye. A little complicated until you've done it a couple of times but once you "see" how it works it's really not too bad. I had to partially disassemble another one to see how much tension to put on the strings. I'll be happy to restring one for anybody for only $500.00 string included.